In The Shadow Of The Taj

by Royina Grewal

The Taj Mahal is synonymous with Agra. But, as Royina Grewal discovers in her wanderings, there is much more to the city. Its strategic location on important trade routes attracted empire-builders from the Lodhis to the Mughals and the British, each of whom left their mark. Now, however, Agra has fallen prey to apathy and neglect. Large parts of the city have succumbed to decay and haphazard development, and the Yamuna River has become a stream of sludge. Only the spirit and enterprise of the everyday inhabitants of the once-glorious city sustain it. Juxtaposing the past with the present, delving into myth and history, and drawing upon her interactions with the city s diverse population, Grewal takes the reader on a fascinating journey through Agra, exploring its lanes and by-lanes, and its attractions other than the Taj, even as she investigates the significance of the monument in the lives of the locals. And as she helps us understand the reasons for Agra s spectacular decline, she also shows us signs of hope, looking at ways in which the city can be restored to some of its former glory. This revised edition of In the Shadow of the Taj is not just an ode to the city s past, but also offers deep and often surprising insights into its present, and its future

280 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 2007

Reviews

[Sairam Krishnan · Rating 4 out of 5]

After having booked tickets on the Taj Express from Delhi to Agra for a long dreamed-of visit, I was hanging around a local bookstore when I found a new edition of Royina Grewal's book, and picked it up immediately. What timing!

I read it through the journey, and enjoyed it thoroughly. A slow tour through the city, its people and its history, In the Shadow of the Taj filled a lot of gaps in my understanding of the former capital of Hindustan.

Agra shares a lot of its history with Delhi, so I'd recommend reading it with William Dalrymple's City of Djinns: if you want a Mughal history primer, that is.
It's a great read as it is, and Grewal's passionate writing fades into the stories, which is what all good writing should do.

The best parts of the book are the intimate portraits she paints of the city's characters; in a fallen city that is only a remnant of what it used to be, it is through them that a forgotten culture lives on in the ruins of a vanquished empire.

[Sree · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is a biography of Agra. I read the revised and updated 2014 edition. The chapters are organised in a fashion that is faintly reminiscent of Khushwanth Singh's Delhi. A chapter steeped in fascinating historical excursion followed by a chapter exploring contemporary Agra. As we read the book we understand that the Taj is just one facet to be explored in Agra. Much remains to be explored for the consummate traveler.

Royina Grewal takes us on a tour of Agra to see Kabutar-bazi; leather industry and the market of carpet weavers; the art of Mughal portraiture; needle painting and the mouth watering Agra peetha; Mumtaz's forgotten place of burial before the Taj was built; the cemetery that houses the oldest European grave in India and many more hidden secrets.

The book goes beyond a historical-structural exploration of Agra. Grewal points out the effect of Partition on the ethos of the city. Emigration of the city's Muslim population and the new immigrant population altered the city's character. I agree with Royina Grewal that the soul of a city lies in the collective memory of the residents. The remembered anecdotes assume an almost spiritual significance in people's memories. As we read the book we feel almost helpless as the 'memory of Agra' is lost to the ravages of time and apathy of its citizens.

In the words of the author: " There is a sense almost of suspended animation, a city adrift in time. Agra is a city in transition, still searching for a new identity. It needs citizens who care and a huge awareness campaign to instil pride in the city once more. But pride comes only when the stomach is full. And for many of Agra's people this requirement is still unfulfilled. Until that need is met, Agra will remain a provincial backwater, muddling through in the shadow of the Taj Mahal (P.26)."

The chapter on colonial attitudes towards Indians shows how 'harsh judgment' and 'moral superiority' of the Britishers extended to people as well as architecture. Only thirty of the five hundred palaces of the Agra Fort remain and the fort itself seems to disappear in the shadow of the Taj despite being a UNESCO World Heritage site. One can't but feel nostalgic about Agra's riverfront that was once called the golden mile. One's imagination would fall short in reconstructing the splendor of Agra with its beautiful gardens and havelis alongside the River Yamuna amidst the noise and pollution of today cramped by noisy trucks and freight cars.

For the ones who can hear Agra's voice, it is hard to miss her existential cries. For the ones who can't, this book is a must read.

[Supriya Verma · Rating 4 out of 5]

It’s a good book to know about Agra in very short.
This books gives you insight about the history,culture and present day conditions of Agra.
The author has written it very well and takes on a very slow tour of the city.
It’s a really good one to read before your trip to Agra and if you have already visited just pick it up and know a little more about Agra,Mughals and Taj Mahal.

[Rachel · Rating 3 out of 5]

I'm glad I read this book while traveling to Agra. It gives a good history of the Mughal empire and their capital, including Shah Jahan's reign and the building of the Taj, and definitely enhanced my understanding of the city's past. Though it claims to be a portrait of present-day Agra, the bulk of the book was spent on history and anecdotes of conversations with Agra residents who provided some insight into the city's present-day condition, but not enough to form a cohesive narrative. Grewal makes some suggestions for improving Agra's lot, but the book seems unfocused at times. She presents people's opinions as she talks to them, but doesn't really synthesize or offer much more insight than her interviewees provide. If you're going to Agra, read it for the history and for the glimpses it provides into the city's current life.

[Vikesh Koul · Rating 3 out of 5]

The establishment of Agra as a city and its multifaceted sides have been delved into in a very good manner.