Sweet Spot: An Ice Cream Binge Across America

by Amy Ettinger

A journalist channels her ice-cream obsession, scouring the United States for the best artisanal brands and delving into the surprising history of ice cream and frozen treats in America.

For Amy Ettinger, ice cream is not just a delicious snack but a circumstance and a time of year--frozen forever in memory. As the youngest child and only girl, ice cream embodied unstructured summers, freedom from the tyranny of her classmates, and a comforting escape from her chaotic, demanding family.

Now as an adult and journalist, her love of ice cream has led to a fascinating journey to understand ice cream's evolution and enduring power, complete with insight into the surprising history behind America's early obsession with ice cream and her experience in an immersive ice-cream boot camp to learn from the masters. From a visit to the one place in the United States that makes real frozen custard in a mammoth machine known as the Iron Lung, to the vicious competition among small ice-cream makers and the turf wars among ice-cream trucks, to extreme flavors like foie gras and oyster, Ettinger encounters larger-than-life characters and uncovers what's really behind America's favorite frozen treats.

Sweet Spot is a fun and spirited exploration of a treat Americans can't get enough of--one that transports us back to our childhoods and will have you walking to the nearest shop for a cone.

Genres: Nonfiction, Food, Travel, Memoir, History, Food and Drink, Audiobook

320 pages, Hardcover

First published July 11, 2017

About the author

Amy Ettinger is an essayist, journalist, and editor. She has written for the New York Times, New York magazine, The Washington Post, Salon, and the Huffington Post. She lives in Santa Cruz, California, with her husband and daughter.

Photo: © Daniel White

Reviews

[Laura · Rating 2 out of 5]

When I tucked into my sundae, I was eating a metaphor: heaps of vanilla-flavored hope and comfort rising from a jet-black lakelet of swirling chaos.

Raise your hand if you love ice cream. It is one of those sweet dessert treats that most everyone seems to love. I know I sure do. I grew up as the ice cream lover in my family of six. For Christmas one year, I got this set of ice cream glasses, spoons, an ice cream scoop & 8 different Smuckers topping jars and I was in heaven. The best gift ever - still one of the ones that stands out most in my mind. Of course, as a little girl when you receive dishes & an ice cream scoop, they weren't really mine. This is something I'd learn over a decade later when moving out. My mom fully took claim of these things. Sure, it was my gift. But don't worry. I devoured the toppings on my sundae creations with no help from my siblings (because I refused it). And I have my own ice cream scoopers. Plus, the ice cream dishes were never actually big enough for a bowl of ice cream. So I didn't want those anyway!

Upon finding Sweet Spot, I figured I'd found someone who appreciates the treat as much as I do. And Ettinger certainly does. She describes her relationship with ice cream and what it means to her before diving into a mixture of traveling to different ice cream/custard/gelato/fro-yo shops and some actual history of ice cream (including several prominent brands) with a little bit of soda history thrown in the soda fountain chapter. There are a few recipes throughout, as well.

The organization leaves little to be desired as she jumps around from one ice cream shop in one state to one all the way across the country. It feels like she wanted to throw in a lot of her own personal opinion to the point that it felt like she was reviewing these ice cream shops. It got to the point of making me uncomfortable because it seems she spoke to the owners under the impression of interviewing them for her book. But I don't think they realized there would be harsh criticisms about their product being published in a book for all to see. It just felt off-putting to me. I wanted a bit more of a history of ice cream, with some details on traveling to the best ice cream shops. I wanted to leave the book with several ice cream shops I'd be dying to try and with an extensive knowledge on the treat I so desire all the time. Now, I admit I did find a few ice cream shops that are now on a special list I have to go to whenever I just *happen to be in the area* (special note: Kurt Farm Shop in Seattle with a farm-to-scoop operation) but I had to look past a lot of harsh criticisms. Sometimes I'd think "oh this sounds like a neat place to try," but then Ettinger had some negative things to throw in that had me changing my mind.

The history and details on how ice cream is made was fascinating. I did feel like I was learning a lot. I kept throwing facts at my husband sounding like more of an ice cream expert than I ever have. It was fun learning about the history of Breyers, Ben & Jerry's, Häagen-Dazs and all the other brand in between. I enjoyed finally understanding where the Chipwich went, which I legit just was searching a grocery store for the other day before settling on the Klondike cookie ice cream sandwich with Mrs. Fields cookies. I love that I now know that Jerry never created a single flavor and that Häagen-Dazs is a made up word they used because it sounds fancy and it allowed them to charge a premium price for their ice cream. The creation of the waffle cone and the ice cream sandwich in general are neat things to learn. It all is so interesting to me. Plus, understanding the treat you so like to eat doesn't hurt. I now have an understanding of ice cream base and why most ice cream shops don't make their own, but I'd love to seek out the shops that do and have my own comparison taste tests.

It is all really so informational. But that's if you can get through the other bits and the tangents the author goes on in between subjects. I found myself skimming some of those at a certain point. I think this book made me want to find a book with the actual history of ice cream & the brands we so love and none of the other stuff in between.

Oh and can I please mention how much it bothered me when the author spoke of ice cream like it was only a summer treat. I get how sales are down in the winter and up in the summer. But if the author is such an ice cream lover, she'd know that ice cream doesn't discriminate against low temperatures. I’ve had many a winter evening where I stood on a chair to reach the kitchen counter and put my sundae together. And then I’d bundle up in my warmest blankets and enjoy my sweet treat while doing whatever. Of course, now I don't need to stand on a chair to get my bowl ready. And it's cold as can be outside, but I had my chocolate peanut butter Häagen-Dazs last night. You better believe that!

[Angie Six · Rating 2 out of 5]

Like the author, I have a sweet spot for ice cream. I understand her obsession, both in the making of it and the consuming of it, and have been known to plan road trips and detours around a visit to an ice cream shop. Unfortunately Ettinger's tales of her own ice cream obsession left me as disappointed as a fallen scoop on hot pavement. I imagined Ettinger slowly making her way across America, discovering charming ice cream makers new and old and telling their stories. Instead the book felt jerky and untethered. One day she was in California, the next Wisconsin, then New York City. I wanted more of a narrative and instead got a jumble of journalism, history lesson, and rants about her travels and ice cream experiences. There are bright spots, however. I learned a lot about how ice cream is made and there were a few stories about the people behind the ice cream that I found interesting. I guess in the end, I wanted the story to be sweeter. Ice cream aficionados who want to delve into the history of brands such as Ben & Jerry's, Culver's, Coolhaus, Carvel and more will enjoy the insight, but those looking for a foodie or travel-type memoir/narrative will probably be hungry for something more substantial.

[Erin · Rating 1 out of 5]

This was a neat idea, but the author's personality was truly annoying. This would have been way better if she had stuck to history and ice cream production and left her obviously contrived family stories and lack of tolerance towards other people's viewpoints out of it.

[Katy O. · Rating 4 out of 5]

ALL THE ICE CREAM. I eat a LOT of this treat, and am currently of the "any ice cream is good ice cream" mindset - naturally I was ecstatic to win a copy of SWEET SPOT and begin reading. I devoured it in two days and found that this book completely satisfied my need for both a history of the treat and a narrative on the makings of a discerning ice cream palate.

Ettinger writes with a surprisingly sharp pen as she describes the ice cream makers and their shops (and Milwaukee - give WI another chance please!), but given her super-sweet topic and extensive time doing research, perhaps this sharpness is a necessary antidote to all of that sugar.

I thoroughly enjoyed her detailed research and intrepid tasting experiences and highly recommend this book to nonfiction foodie readers - be prepared to need LOTS of ice cream while reading, though!

[Crystal King · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a book about my absolute favorite food in the world. Like Ettinger, it's like crack for me. I can never have enough ice cream. If, like me, you are a freak for this cold treat, snap this book up and learn all about the crazy and fascinating history of its rise across America. I learned so much about how ice cream, frozen custard and gelato is made, about ice cream trucks, about the challenge of pasteurization and so much more. Ettinger weaves meticulous (and delicious) research amidst her memories of growing up as an ice cream lover, creating that emotional connection that I know ice cream has for me. A wonderful summer companion for your book bag.

[Chris · Rating 2 out of 5]

This book really annoyed me. Some of my complaints are similar to the criticisms of others-that the book is really dry, and just plain boring, and that she has a very critical, elitist attitude, but I was further offended, as a Milwaukee County resident, how she portrayed the lovely city of Milwaukee. Yes, it has its problems like any big city, but I really resented her depicting it as a bombed out war zone. These reasons made it really hard for me to finish the book. But I battled through.

[Cat · Rating 5 out of 5]

I am sooo looking forward to visiting MY favorite ice cream shop, if and when this winter ever ends.... I love this book! I can't wait to take a road trip and discover some cook ice cream shops myself! In the meantime, I have an ice ream maker and there are a ;ot of delicious ice creams to be made from recipes in this book! If you love ice cream, you'll enjoy this treat!

[Nostalgia Reader · Rating 4 out of 5]

A delicious and refreshing read, perfect for the depths of a summer heat wave. By the time you finish this, you'll be craving ice cream... if you haven't already given into the temptation and cracked a pint or two open while you're reading!

This was a solid combination of foodie exploration memoir and ice cream history. Ettinger's passion/obsession for ice cream shines through as she travels around the country to find unique ice cream shops, trucks, and labs, where she explores new flavors and old secrets, as well as some of the science behind what makes ice cream more than just frozen milk. Each chapter focuses on a different subject, with Ettinger's experiences and research (i.e. eating lots of ice cream) are woven into each chapter. While she has some set in stone views, she's still willing to give things she once would have shunned a try, such as topping ice cream with toffee mealworms. She also delves into the history behind many famous brands, as well as the founding stories of many unique and quirky ice cream stores around the country.

There's something interesting in here for everyone, whether you're wanting to learn about the science of ice cream and how it's made (spoiler: much of it is made from a pre-packaged mix), the history of brands and stores, or even the quirks of ice cream related treats like gelatos, frozen yogurt, soda fountains, and ice cream sandwiches ("sammies").

I finished reading this on the hottest day of the season, thus far, and I wish I still had a few more chapters left to cool me off, at least in spirit.

Thank you to NetGalley for providing me with a free copy to review!

(Cross posted on my blog.)

[Jane · Rating 4 out of 5]

Thanks to CookBookClub.com for this win.

If you're an ice cream lover like I am, this book is for you. Not only does she travel around the country eating ice cream, she goes into the history of ice cream, gelato, soda fountain drinks, frozen custard, the history of soda, etc. Very good research. I learned a lot about what goes into it and other things I never knew.

The types of flavors that she tried are unbelievable with bugs, foie gras and many others that I would never try.

Loved the cover too.

[Kathie · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was a throughly enjoyable read. I found the author very chatty and easy to read. I learned a ton about ice cream production, and got a glimpse into what it takes to make a cool treat. I liked learning about some of the more unusual flavours that are out there, and found her research quite extensive.

[Katie · Rating 4 out of 5]

Yum! What an entertaining and informative tour of ice cream!

[Miranda]

Decent, but padded out to make it book length it seemed. Really wish I had read this before a trip to Seattle so I'd have known about the place she goes to out there.

[Autumn · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was a delightful read. If you like ice cream or if you just like history, this is a fantastic read. She even includes recipes!

[Holly · Rating 2 out of 5]

I wasn't terribly impressed with this book and possibly because I had read a review calling it a summer darling of a book and so my expectations were set high. That said, the book is more rant than rave about ice cream. The author does have an appreciative obsession with ice cream that goes back to her childhood but this book is her personal travels into certain aspects of ice cream rather than a coherent whole. It jerks around from chapter to chapter on subject matter and I would have enjoyed more information about actual ice cream history or brands or differences across the country rather than a whole chapter about strange flavors and insects in ice cream (mealworm ice cream, anyone?!). That last chapter really turned me off. I found that by the end of the book I was skimming rather than reading.

[Biblio Files (takingadayoff) · Rating 5 out of 5]

Even if you think you are a major ice cream fan, you probably have nothing on Amy Ettinger. She lives for ice cream. And after researching this book, she knows a lot more about ice cream than practically anyone. She combines memoir with magazine-type journalism in this in-depth look at the state of ice cream in America. She visits dairies and ice cream factories and shops to see what the latest technologies are and how some producers are trying to bring back old-time quality ice cream. She tried unexpected concoctions such as goat's milk ice cream and samples mealworm ice cream. She rides along in a Brooklyn ice cream truck, tries to understand the mysterious (to her) popularity of frozen yogurt, and searches out the quirky local novelties that still thrive, such as frozen custard and It's It Bars. Do I really need to tell you this is a great beach read?

[Jill · Rating 4 out of 5]

Do you love ice cream too? Author Amy Ettinger went on a cross-country journey to find the best ice cream. And in her new book, Sweet Spot, she shares everything she learned. From finding out that Haagen Dazs came from Brooklyn and was named by Reuben Mattus, who wanted a "Danish sounding" name (my biggest disappointment reading this book), to learning all about ice cream base (pre-made or homemade?), to obsessively testing her own recipes, Ettinger set about to find out everything she could about the great love of her life, ice cream. 

Ice cream is more than just a comfort food. It's a journey back to childhood, an excursion through our best memories, a trip to comfort and love and joy. It was part of our birthday parties, our summer picnics, our holiday meals, and hot summer nights. And it's what Amy Ettinger lives for, so her journey to find the best ice cream is as complete a journey as you can imagine. 

Talk about the ultimate summer reading! 

Ettinger takes us through history lessons and science classes, to learn where our favorite frozen treats come from and how they're put together. She explores the world of ice cream shops, ice cream trucks, soda fountains, frozen custard, ice cream sandwiches, gelato, and froyo. And she even looks at some of the crazy adult-only ice cream flavors the include alcohol or proteins like insects or foie gras (a brilliant idea, says this girl, whose local ice cream shop just teamed with one of our city's best bbq restaurants to offer a burnt ends ice cream, topped with barbecue sauce). 

Through mind-numbing ice cream tastings, ice cream maker failures, freezing disasters, Ice Cream School, and even a carjacking, Ettinger persevered to offer us a tasty volume of facts, memories, ideas, flavors, and even recipes, like her Ice Cream Cake by the Ocean, Arnie's Ballpark Chocolate Ice Cream, and her NGB2 (Not Going Back to) Milwaukee Butter Pecan Custard. 

Sweet Spot is everything you wanted to know about your ice cream, in a charming, fun, fascinating book that you can read with a spoon in your hand. 



Galleys for Sweet Spot were provided by Penguin Group, Dutton, through NetGalley.com, with many thanks. 

[Kelly Sedinger · Rating 3 out of 5]

Real rating would be 3.5 stars. This is a fun and readable account of one author's adventures in the world of ice cream, from the academic program at Penn State devoted to the secrets of its manufacture, to the weirdness behind the frozen yogurt craze some years ago, to the hyper-competitive world of ice cream trucks (I had NO idea about any of this), to the weird intersection of foods for pleasure and foods for medicinal purposes (including the eternal question, "Did Coca-Cola really have cocaine in it at any point?"). There are even some recipes if you're into making your own ice cream (I'm not, so I can't vouch for those one way or the other).

In short, this book is a solid and fun bit of food writing on a topic that the gourmets of the world might be tempted to ignore.

[Kimee · Rating 4 out of 5]

When I land my first software engineering job my treat will be subscribing to Jeni's pint club to celebrate. I am someone who loves ice cream so much that this book was a delight.

I learned a lot from this book: the controversy behind an outsourced base (Almost everyone does it. Bi-Rite uses Straus, or the buffalo guy for their soft serve.) or other ingredients (looking at Coolhaus); why frozen custard is so special; ice cream truck turf wars in NYC; that ice cream sandwiches came before cones; that Salt + Straw gets their dairy from a farm where an opera singer serenades the cows.

Amy Ettinger's voice also resonated a lot with me. She clearly cares a lot and puts effort into everything she tries, which is a fast track to me heart, that and an ice cream cone.

[Stephanie · Rating 4 out of 5]

As an ice cream lover, this book was right up my alley. I enjoyed the author's perspective and journey learning about ice cream (and its many varieties) as well as her personal insights along the way. What I enjoyed most was the small vignettes of individual ice cream makers sharing their approach, their beliefs, and their process with the author. Some chapters were certainly more engaging and entertaining than others, but overall this is a book that thoroughly covers a piece of Americana in a unique way.

[Lisa · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved reading this one! I learned so much about the ice cream industry! It was great to travel chapter by chapter with Ettinger to a variety of places in the USA - I vicariously tasted ice cream and custard from coast to coast! 'Makes me want to travel more and challenge my palate (and gym workout!) If you love ice cream like I do, read this! It's a real TREAT!

[Michelle · Rating 5 out of 5]

Amazing history of ice cream in America. You will want to eat ice cream while reading this so I don't recommend it if you are on a diet. Chapters on frozen yogurt, ice cream sandwiches, history of soda fountains and pharmacy, the making of ice cream with recipes. Beware of the last chapter and oyster and foi gras ice cream....ugh! Ettinger is a brave soul!! Well researched, thought provoking and entertaining! Foodies, ice cream lovers and gourmands will enjoy this book, rich with history and flavor! I highly recommend it!!

[Kirk Astroth · Rating 5 out of 5]

I can’t wait to meet Amy this week and serve as a moderator for her panel on desserts. She has written the definitive book on ice cream, froyo, frozen custard and every variation in between. An ice cream so spicy you have to sign a waiver. Fois de gras ice cream? Yes that too. A great read and loads of fun.

[Beth · Rating 4 out of 5]

I don’t think I’d want to get ice cream with the author. I just want to enjoy every spoonful, whether it’s direct from the farm or out of a Dairy Queen drive-through. Her obsession with the frozen treat makes for a great book, though. She carries readers with her around the country - and through history - in the pursuit of the people and processes that make such a delicious treat.

[Susan Jones · Rating 4 out of 5]

How can you not like a book about ice cream? And who knew there was so much to know? Amy Ettinger's writing reminded me a little of Mary Roach, although at times I lost interest or got confused as she started talking about different companies. And I would never, ever try oyster ice cream!

[Jacquie · Rating 4 out of 5]

An easy, light introduction into the world of ice cream. Be prepared to crave ice cream every time you crack this book open.

[Sandi · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was one person went around to ice cream shops to find the best ice cream it was fun reading

[Cara · Rating 5 out of 5]

WARNING: Do not attempt to read this book without at least a quart of ice cream in your freezer. I only made it to page 27 before the craving started, and it did not let up. Ettinger samples the creamy and the crazy when it comes to ice cream in America - everything from vanilla soft-serve to foie gras ice cream sandwiches. Along the way, she introduces the reader to plenty of sugary history and savory characters. This book is best enjoyed while dishing up yourself some frozen Americana right along with her. Honestly, Sweet Spot would probably be more torture than treat without a scoop of your favorite flavor to join you as you turn the pages.

[Steve Peifer · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is such a great combination of a true believer on her noble quest to find good ice cream, someone smart enough to know that loving ice cream is slightly silly, solid reporting and research, and more laugh out loud lines than anyone deserves. I only wished it was longer, but it is a terrific read.

[Lisa of Hopewell · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fun!
Full review here: https://hopewellslibraryoflife.wordpr...

[Kate · Rating 1 out of 5]

Really not what I was anticipating. At 16% into the kindle version, the author talks about how easy it is to become very ill from Listeria in ice cream, and that the FDA has ice cream listed as a potentially hazardous food. Really? Why is this in a book of ice cream travel anecdotes?

The icing on the cake is at 75% in, where the author describes, in excruciating detail, her family's experience trying toffee-flavored mealworms on their ice cream. Is there a photo of the actual mealworms they ate, you may ask? Why yes, there most certainly is!

If this sounds like the book for you, go ahead, but I'm sticking with my one star rating. Speaking of sticking, did you know that whole mealworms are hard to swallow when they're mixed in with vanilla ice cream, and their scales stick in your throat? Well, you do now.