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Among Friends: Travels in Cuba

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What’s it like to live in a modern city where water and electricity, soap and paper are rationed? How do you find a pop-up restaurant in the depths of the countryside? Among Travels in Cuba is an account of one person’s discovery of Cuba as it moves towards a more open economy. With an eye for the telling details of daily life, Murray first explores Havana and then other provinces to the west and east in visits spread over a period of eight years. We meet Julian, her Cuban guide and friend, Magdalena, landlady and untiring critic of the Castro regime, Ernesto, taxi driver and mountain guide, and an entertaining cast of naïve Canadian tourists, enterprising peasants and perspiring bicitaxi drivers. Besides probing the Cuban psyche, Murray’s explorations highlight the unique scenery of Cuba from the elegant center of old Havana to the mogotes of the Vinales valley, and from the pristine beaches of the northern keys to historic Trinidad and the Escambray mountains with their lakes, waterfalls and jungles.
A humorous and sympathetic portrait of Cuba as it emerges from over half a century of privation and isolation, this book will appeal to future as well as former visitors.

299 pages, Kindle Edition

Published September 27, 2016

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Heather Murray

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Displaying 1 - 15 of 15 reviews
Profile Image for Anita Nasr.
Author 1 book14 followers
February 6, 2017
As an admirer of socialist ideals, and one of the many enamoured of the revolutionary Che Guevara, I’ve always been curious about Cuba, but was never brave enough to pick up a book on the subject for fear of drowning in the politics. I’m really glad I had the chance to read Among Friends: Travels in Cuba, and would recommend it to anyone considering a visit or simply interested to know more about this unique country.

I was charmed by author Heather Murray’s story: how she first came to visit Cuba as a lecturer in applied linguistics, the Cuban professor who was her bridge to the culture and became her dear friend, her adventures as a traveller who refused to take the well-trodden tourist path. Descriptions effortlessly capture the magic of special moments but Murray doesn’t shy away from presenting both sides of her explorations of Cuba – the side you could easily fall in love with and the side that keeps you wary. Observations are light-hearted and, though they often point out poignant truths, they avoid the pitfalls of the overly sentimental traveller’s account. This approach by the author allows readers to reach their own conclusions and form their own opinions about the Cuban state of affairs.

On several occasions, Murray mentions taking photographs of certain places and events, and I would have loved to see some of them, though I imagine either permissions might have been tricky to obtain or the traveller photos may not have met publishing standards. All the same, I’m grateful for this newfound knowledge gained through an engrossing read. By recounting her various visits over an eight-year span, Heather Murray has documented a fascinating period of change for Cuba and tells a story that made me yearn to go back to simpler times.

I’ll conclude with one of my favourite parts:

“It’s funny how we want to catch the natural beauty, the special character, the picturesqueness of a people and country as long as they remain unaware of their picturesqueness. We are digital hunters and gatherers, capturing innocence and grace and authenticity... But as soon as our prey turn to us and want money for posing, the act of photography loses its wild one-sidedness and turns into a commercial transaction that ruins the fun of the hunt.”
Profile Image for E.M. Swift-Hook.
Author 49 books204 followers
February 5, 2017
A Love Affair With Cuba

'A thin line of jazz trickled down a keyboard in the background. I felt like Lauren Bacall.'

In the preface to her book, the author states that she has much admiration for authors such as Bill Bryson, well self-revelation here, so do I. Which meant I was really looking forward to reading this book, expecting an intimate and warm view of one of the least accessible nations at a time of great change in its history. I was not disappointed.

The author first became interested in Cuba through correspondence with a man called Julian, who was her career counterpart to some extent, in that she was teaching English to Swiss scientists whilst he taught it to Cuban Doctors. After a couple of years of postal and eventually email exchanges, the author was finally able to visit Cuba as a speaker at a conference there.

'I walked out onto the presidential balcony and stood all alone, looking down on the large square below, imagining it filled with thousands of cheering Cubans, imagining Fidel himself addressing the crowd from the exact spot where I now stood.'

This is a very good book. The writing is almost flawless - anyone who can describe a visit to a cigar factory and keep me interested, has to be a good writer. Through the author's eyes we get to see the strange contradictions of freedom and repression, old technology and modern demands, subsidised lifestyles and tourist privilege. At first in the company of her Cuban friend Julian and then exploring on her own and with other friends made over several visits, the author takes us on a personal, often behind-the-scenes view of life in Cuba. There are tempting snippets of historical information and daily life, personal tragedies and triumphs, humour and inspiration.

'But that was Cuba: a beggar dressed in silks and gold inherited from times past.'

This is a wonderful, warm-hearted view of a much neglected and sometimes maligned nation - it's countryside, it's architecture, it's institutions - but mostly its people. It is very clear the author has an ongoing love affair with Cuba and after reading her book I understand why and would love to go visit myself.
Profile Image for J.P. Willson.
Author 4 books61 followers
May 29, 2017
Although I have never had any desire to travel to Cuba myself-to be honest there are very few places in this world I do have an interest in visiting. I mean I live in the most beautiful country in the world in my estimation, there is such a never ending bounty of places to visit right here in Canada I have simply never felt the longing to travel anywhere else. I find it somewhat coincidental and unusual really that one of those few places I would like to visit is Switzerland. You'll have to read the book to understand why.
Having said all of that, the book has shed some light on a country long since misunderstood I think. The author does a wonderful job of bringing out the beauty of the country and it's peoples with great clarity, so who knows perhaps I shall have a change of heart about visiting. The book itself is more of a memoir of the authors many visits than a travel guide per se yet that does not detract from its charm about one of the unique little parts of this enormous world of ours.
As with travelling anywhere there are always pros and cons of doing such, this book about the country of Cuba shares both yet there are many more pros than one would imagine in visiting a country with such predetermined historical malaise as this. "Don't believe everything you read" comes to mind- yet not in connection with this book.
Perhaps a change in travel plans?
Profile Image for Rosie Amber.
Author 1 book82 followers
July 26, 2017
Among Friends is a non-fiction travel memoir about Heather Murray’s love for the island of Cuba. Heather is a Canadian, teaching English in Switzerland. She has reached out to Julian, who lectures in medical English in Cuba. In 2009 Heather takes her first trip to Cuba as a speaker at an Anglo conference in Havana. Due to the political situation, travel arrangement are complex, but as a Canadian she is seen more favourably than, say, a resident from other western countries, because Canada has made material donations to Cuba.

Julian meets Heather in Havana, becoming her tour guide; this allows her to immerse herself in the everyday life of Cuban people. There are two forms of money: a local currency for Cubans and a different one for everyone else. Cubans have access to subsidised shops, restaurants and travel; however, this is reflected in their very low wages. Additionally, there are vast shortages of paper, drinking water, transport, electricity and certain foods.

At the conference Heather is expected to pay to be a speaker and pay for her end of conference dinner. At first she is indignant; she has already paid for her airfare and accommodation, but Julian explains that without money from foreigners, the conference would not exist. Lots of delegates are keen to befriend Heather, but she is disappointed that no one invites her to their home or their place of work for a visit. Julian, once again, explains that with so many shortages these contacts hope Heather can send them items like, paper, books and other resources they need, or even invite them to visit Switzerland, whilst they are ashamed to invite her to where they work and live. He reminds Heather that few Cubans can leave their country, whereas for something like an academic invite, they may be granted permission.

Heather returns to Cuba several more times, each time witnessing changes. One big change was when Eusebio Leal began to restore areas to attract tourists, thus bringing in much needed foreign money to Cuba.

One interesting time was the death of Venzuela’s president, Hugo Chavez. Cuba announced three days of national mourning for someone outside their own country. This was because, in the past, Venezuela sent oil and money to Cuba, now Cuba feared for the future. I was also very impressed by the vast empathy from Cubans, to others. Many Cubans volunteer all over the world in medical aid agencies; particularly helping the poor and distressed in Latin America and Africa. This may be one way they can legitimately leave Cuba.

I found I learnt a lot about the history of this country and the everyday hardships its people face. There are no pictures in the book, but these can be found on Heather’s website. This is a long book; however, I would recommend it to those interested in the story of native people from this Caribbean island.
Profile Image for Felix Long.
Author 5 books10 followers
January 31, 2017
I thoroughly enjoyed Heather Murray’s “Among Friends”. Part travelogue, part insightful long-term observation of the enigma that is Cuba.

One of the few socialist countries in the world. A major producer of tobacco, a cash crop with a dwindling consumer base and subject to a long running embargo on crucial trade. An embargo that failed to dislodge Castro and punished his people instead. A place where all health care (including plastic surgery) is free, but people have barely enough to eat.

Heather Murray explores Cuba over a number of years, contrasting her own idealistic support for the revolution in her younger years with the reality of the revolution in her later years. The questions are raised gently and demand consideration. Would Cuba’s socialist revolution have succeeded in its goals if it had not been economically crippled by the US Embargo? Why does the Embargo still stand? What next for Cuba now that Castro is gone? What are the important things in life? Money? Or a good basic standard of living for all?

Heather Murray paints a fond picture of Cuba. Glory days proudly on display against a backdrop of grinding poverty, alleviated by world class musicians, dancers, and doctors. I feel she has captured the joie de vivre and resilience of the Cuban people well.

One line in particular stays with me - “But that was Cuba: a beggar dressed in silks and gold inherited from times past.”

An interesting read. Pleasant yet thought provoking.
Profile Image for Donte McNeal.
Author 1 book10 followers
February 6, 2017
I'll start this off by saying, Among Friends isn't something that I world normally pick up. Heck, if I saw the cover is keep moving. However, I love learning about other countries/cultures so I'm glad I was able to read this book. I learned quite a bit. Like people can live off of $24. No, really!

Esther's... I'm sorry, Heather's writing is informative while remaining light and engaging. I'm always wary about reading book that take place in other countries because authors tend to wrote in other languages often and seeing as how I only know one language other than English, that tendency takes me out of the book more often than not. That happens a bit here, but not too much, so I was thankful for that.

I had a great time learning about the lesser known hero Jose Marti, other areas, landmarks and activities of Cuba I didn't know about, though I think I'd share Heather's views in the coco-taxi. This book almost made me want to visit the "living museum" that is Cuba. Almost... I think my view on books like this has changed with Heather's outing, so kudos for that!

All in all, this was a good read, even if I usually wouldn't read something like this. I enjoyed how the relationships Heather was ale to develop during her time in Cuba, as well as the sights I was able to see through her eyes.
Profile Image for Courtney.
152 reviews86 followers
March 25, 2017
I'll admit right off the bat that I could not help thinking about Dirty Dancing: Havana Nights whilst reading Murray's memoir..... I had to get that out of the way. Now, this narrative felt like a beautiful friendship, kindred spirits even if I pull out some Anne of Green Gables lingo. The perfect and ideal pen pal, Julian seemed like a gracious host and thrived on showing Heather the Cuba he lives and breathers. I honestly did not know much about Cuba beyond Castro and Havana so this complete immersion in the country beyond what we know in tourism was fascinating and revealing. Exploring Santa Clara, Trinidad, and Hanabanilla gave a wide range of experiences outside of the typical Havana tourist location.

At times I felt that this could just be the blog site with updates every 2-ish years she traveled to Cuba. There was a map of Cuba in the beginning pages, but I wished there were more personal photos to accompany the detailed narrative of what she was experiencing. Although this was a travel memoir about Cuba, I felt the insertion of what Heather did in between visits was not as smooth a transition and seemed random. She had traveled to other locations in between Cuba visits, and I believe it would have been interesting to expand on those as a point of comparison or omit those completely as it did not add to the personal story of Cuba. In terms of providing context and sharing stories from the people themselves, I couldn't have asked for anything more. The personal touch and breaking the stereotypes of Cuba and its people are both extremely important with educating the rest of the world beyond what we think we know or have read in the news or textbooks.

I would love to read a follow-up by her in terms of presently the embargo being lifted (for the United States). I wonder if that would change any perspectives or experiences Heather experienced (even though she is Canadian and lives in Switzerland). The fact that Heather relished in her independence to explore on her own and dive right in to the culture gives the travel bug in me more motivation to pick up and go somewhere. I feel that Heather's story is a great companion to the layperson's education of the world we may not have known otherwise.

Some memorable and relate-able quotes to leave you with:

"It was then that I thought to myself: yes that's what seems to be happening here. Cubans have been forced by historic circumstance to give new life to outdated things" (Murray 48)

"It occurred to me that revolutions must have many unintended victims like Magdalena's husband - people who, above all, want to go on as before, just doing a good job" (Murray 213)

"I lost sight of that fact that my friendship with Julian was just as rare as any protected species or environment, and just as important. He and I share a friendship that has overcome language and space and time; I can't allow misunderstandings and cultural difference to destroy it" (Murray 271)

Read Among Friends, Travels in Cuba if you like the themes of:

Friendship
Culture
Travel
Independence
Education
Profile Image for G.J. Griffiths.
Author 13 books88 followers
May 24, 2017
This book was written by Heather Murray as her account of the various visits to Cuba that she made over several years. It is an interesting read, amusing in parts but without any sense of cynical humour. The author’s affection towards the country and its people is very obvious after just a few chapters. Although I had no personal curiosity about Cuba before reading this book it is written so well, with such enlightening enthusiasm for the country’s culture, traditions and even political complications, that I was pleasantly intrigued throughout her account. The details about the economy, the transport and the day-to-day struggles of the population, who seem to remain resolute to “succeed”, come what may, often had me gasping in astonishment.

It will remain as one of the very few travel books I have ever enjoyed. It is capable of dismissing some of the myths one may have about Cuba and the living conditions found there while at the same time introducing a few amazing stories that linger in the memory. For example, the fairly common practice of young adult Cubans trying to have a relationship with a tourist that may result in marriage. Thus enabling them to leave their own country to take up a better standard of living in the tourist’s country when a ‘happily married couple’. Of course it is not as simple as that sounds but the tales that Heather Murray relates about it are fascinating. For me a highly recommended book.
I received a complimentary copy in exchange for an honest review.
Profile Image for J.B. Trepagnier.
Author 121 books812 followers
May 15, 2017
This is not something I would normally pick up. I don't usually read travel books or blogs, so this is a first for me.

This reads more like a narrative of the author telling a story to a friend about their travels. It was interesting to read about her budding friendship with a Cuban English teacher and her journey to get there herself to teach English.

I was a little gobsmacked to read people live on $24 a day at the time the novel was written. The book gives you both the good and the bad, not just all the good about the country.

It's an unbiased, humorous story with a lot of soul about Cuba
Profile Image for Tracie.
485 reviews
January 21, 2019
I was initially interested in this book because my son recently travelled to Cuba and it is somewhere I've always been interested in. "Among Friends: Travels in Cuba" just made me want to visit even more!
Profile Image for Gwen.
549 reviews
February 28, 2018
Gave this book to my husband, who is a big Cuba "fan". He is currently enjoying it.

I received this book free from Goodreads First Reads.
Profile Image for Daniela Lupsanu.
52 reviews53 followers
September 3, 2021
Really useful when planning a meaningful trip off the beaten track for tourists, focusing more on the culture and less on instagramable locations.
Profile Image for Yvonne (It's All About Books).
2,694 reviews316 followers
April 22, 2017

Finished reading: April 20th 2017


“Ephemeral things are tragic because they are never repeated, but they are wonderful because they may be kept in memories in our brain, and they may be recollected as many times as we wish.”

*** A copy of this book was kindly provided to me by the author in exchange for an honest review. Thank you! ***



P.S. Find more of my reviews here.
Profile Image for Diana Febry.
Author 21 books176 followers
May 1, 2017
An interesting, easy to read book I recommend to anyone curious about Cuba whether they intend to visit the country or not. It has certainly sparked an interest in me.
The book is written as a personal acount of the authors visits to Cuba over 8 eight years with an endearing gentle humour. Although a record of personal experience it is written in a way to illuminate the beauty, colour, ambience and contradictions of the country and I found it very informative.
The book packs in a lot of detail such as the dual currency, the transport problems, politics and the economy but it is done in such a way it never feels "too heavy" and I never felt I was being bombarded with facts. The writing is very good and the book was a pleasure to read.
While it didn't affect my enjoyment of the book I would have liked to see a new page for the start of each chapter. Although there is a link provided to access photographs on the author's blog it would have been lovely to have some photographs included in the text.
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