An expose on the fashion industry written by the Observer's 'Ethical Living' columnist, examining the inhumane and environmentally devastating story behind the clothes we so casually buy and wear. Coming at a time when the global financial crisis and contracting of consumer spending is ushering in a new epoch for the fashion industry, To Die For offers a very plausible vision of how green could really be the new black. Taking particular issue with our current mania for both big-name labels and cheap fashion, To Die For sets an agenda for the urgent changes that can and need to be made by both the industry and the consumer. Far from outlining a future of drab, ethical clothing, Lucy Siegle believes that it is indeed possible to be an 'ethical fashionista', simply by being aware of how and where (and by whom) clothing is manufactured. The global banking crisis has put the consumer at a when money is tight should we embrace cheap fast fashion to prop up an already engorged wardrobe, or should we reject this as the ultimate false economy and advocate a return to real fashion, bolstered by the principles of individualism and style pedigree? In this impassioned book, Siegle analyses the global epidemic of unsustainable fashion, taking stock of our economic health and moral accountabilities to expose the pitfalls of fast fashion. Refocusing the debate squarely back on the importance of basic consumer rights, Siegle reveals the truth behind cut price, bulk fashion and the importance of your purchasing decisions, advocating the case for a new sustainable design era where we are assured of value for ethically, morally and in real terms.
Lucy Siegle is a British journalist and writer on environmental issues. She is a reporter on The One Show. Siegle offers a unique and beguiling perspective on environmental issues and ethical consumerism.
Once upon a time “fashion” was only for the upper class. Clothes were custom-made to fit the bodies of rich patrons, who could pay for top quality fabric and workmanship. Fashionable patterns filtered down slowly, so that the lower class could copy them and produce their own clothes with lesser materials. Dressmaking was slow and expensive, both for the rich and the poor. For this reason quality was important. Clothes and accessories were made to cherish and to last.
When mass-production arrived, it was welcomed as democratic. Besides, it created jobs. Unfortunately, in the course of a few decades, the economic miracle turned into a monster. Nowadays, fast fashion is a fire-spitting dragon destroying the world behind it.
This book describes clearly the environmental and ethical crimes committed in the name of profit. Fashion and elegance do not even enter into the picture. Never before there was such a huge offer of clothes and so many badly dressed women. Females who have no idea whatsoever of what suit their bodies but are just slavishly buying into the never ending heap of crummy clothes that fill the high street.
The author got interested in fast fashion because she writes a column about green living and like most of us, considered only the environmental footprint left by food consumption. She candidly confess of not even knowing of which fiber most clothes were made of, nor how to take care of them (which I found weird, but unfortunately true for too many people).
Each chapter deals with ordinary items we all own (cotton garments, shoes, leather jackets, etc…) and describes in details their destructive and exploitative nature. For instance, cotton is a crop that grows mostly in Africa. It is bought for a pittance and then moved to Bangladesh where it is processed into clothes by women and children, also paid a pittance and working under constant threat and pressure. Then the finished product is shipped back to Europe (or to the US) to hit the high street.
If you ever wondered how it is possible for high street shops to boast about weekly arrivals, it is because in developing countries a horde of semi-slaves is forced to produce whatever is considered the micro-trend of the moment (the right cut or color). It is not uncommon for these people to work 12 hours shifts assembling low-quality, cheap clothes that will barely last a season.
Cotton, wool and leather are all chemically treated to produce accessories and clothes. Clothing industry also includes tanning, which is a notoriously polluting process. Chemical dies are extremely bad for the environment. To complete this destructive and monstrous process, since fast fashion dictates that items should have a fast rotation - also because most of them would not last longer than a season - there is the additional problem of dealing with discarded items. This implies the final trip of used clothes back to Africa and more pollution, since those clothes are eventually used as poisonous land fillers.
What makes the whole procedure tragic, on top of unethical treatment of humans and animals, exploitation and pollution, is the fact that cheap clothes are not even “fashionable”. They are ill fitting, low value garments of declining quality. As I found out: I used to buy my shirts in a Spanish chain of high-street stores. I still have a couple of shirts I bought ten years ago, but those bought more recently tore within a couple of months of usage. Needles to add, I don’t buy there anymore.
The only saving grace and cheering episode of this gloomy story is the last chapter, where the author gives lots of useful advice on how to break the destructive cycle of buying into fast fashion. Follow her advice. I surely did.
Ahh, I finally got hold of this book. It's hard to find; neither my library nor Amazon carries it. I ordered it through Powell's (shipped from the UK). I wouldn't be surprised if this book's publication was actively suppressed in the U.S. This book is for you if you want to know: --How a $20 dress at H&M got to be that cheap --Why we're buying more clothing, not less, now that it's cheaper than ever --If there are other factories like Rana Plaza in Bangladesh (YES. And many garment industry moguls go through the trouble of setting up an entire fake factory which conforms to the US/European company's safety and labor regulations, while of course the real work is done elsewhere) --Whether cotton has a lower ecological impact than synthetic fibers --Why cashmere is everywhere now --What it's like to work in a garment factory --How to buy clothing that is made ethically and with the lowest impact on the environment
If you're thinking this book sounds like a downer, don't write it off yet. Siegle is a great writer and offers compelling stories to make her point. Here's one of the most memorable: "A fashion industry commentator watched in horror as she saw one satisfied customer emerge with six or seven brown paper Primark (similar to H&M) bags full of clothes. It was raining heavily, and as the young woman proceeded down Oxford Street one of them broke around the handles and folded cotton flopped onto the pavement. Naturally the journalist expected the girl to bend down and collect the brand new clothes, but no. She just walked on. Fashion was apparently so expendable it had turned into litter."
When I read "Overdressed" by Elizabeth Cline I was motivated to start make my own shirts again and I looked for more books about the true cost of what has, aptly, been called the "fast fashion" industry. I have never been an "on trend" shopper or clothing wearer. My tastes have always been a bit more prosaic and conservative and I have always preferred clothes that will be used for years rather than months.
Learning about how and why the cost of clothes have plummeted has been areal eye-opener to me and there are societal costs that I really have never thought about before reading this book. Lucy Siegel goes into some very interesting details about the various areas of fashion beyond cloth...leather, fur, wool, crocodile and snake skins as well cotton and synthetics. She covers the ethical questions of workers rights, and how devastation is wrought by the use of chemicals and dyes and the resultant pollution to earth and water.
I was especially interested to learn about why and how the cost of cashmere clothing has become a rock bottom bargain rather than the luxury fiber that I grew up with. The amount of pristine land that is becoming desert wasteland is stupefying and frightening.
There was SO much to,learn from this book...it will stay with me for a long time. These two books have forever changed my concept of the clothing I wear and I cannot help but think that anyone who reads it will also feel a dose of "comeuppance". There truly is a high cost for low cost fashion. Surely we can all at least give some consideration to the way that we spend our clothing dollars.
Fascinating, well researched, well written and slightly frightening; this is a book well worth the time to read. I got this through Inter-Library loan but will now be look for a copy to own and mark to my hearts content. Next reading is this genre is the book "Cheap"...
We know the horror story behind our clothes, and yet we shrug - perhaps guiltily, but still - and carry on, myself very much included. The practices of modern fashion are obscene, as is our endorsement of them, as is the fact that this is all the accepted norm.
It truly boggles the mind when you take a long, hard look at the ins and outs of the whole horror show through a book such as this one. Yet ’To Die For’ manages not just to be readable, but a masterclass of balance: Siegle is both friendly and frank, unflinching in her presentation of bleak stats and stories but also infectiously enthusiastic in sharing real, grounded hope and optimism. She is about what is possible and how, inspiring not demoralising; ‘To Die For’ is written the way it needed to be, which is some achievement.
Throughout reading, with and away from the book, I was thinking, looking things up, reconsidering, strategising. It spurs you to action. We each individually need to accept our place in, and current endorsement of, the system as is - regardless of how we simultaneously sleepwalked and were forcibly cajoled there - and work out a personal plan of change. This is how we begin to effect change as a whole, and we have to, because fast fashion has a body count like a world war and is determined to add to that the planet itself.
I love clothes, my friends, but not at this cost. No freaking way.
Admittedly, the clearest lesson I learnt from this book is that I am not, and likely never will be, particularly interested in fashion.
That said, I've got a great deal of respect for 'To Die For', even if I feel it's significantly let down by its shortcomings.
It is an impressively well-reasearched, detailed, persuasive and passionate analysis (and condemnation) of the fashion industry, given greater weight by the author's clear love of fashion and position as a former fast fashion devotee.
It's a shame, then, that the book is just way too dense. Heavy on the detail and light on the discussion, it's a constant stream of poorly-structured information. You can tell it's written by a reporter and, whilst the style is engaging at first, it just doesn't quite work for a 300-page book.
Honestly depressing. While I was already subconsciously aware of what an ethical nightmare the fashion industry is, this book gave it a whole new level of clarity. Although now sadly ten years out of date, I imagine the vast majority of the content still rings true. It is the kind of thing I would want to share with others, but as most people are already conscious of it on some base level, the true severity of these issues and correct approach to solve them would be hard to get across to people in a meaningful way without them reading the book themselves or doing extensive research. I only wish that everything in this book was common knowledge, perhaps then the issues of the fashion industry would begin to solve themselves...
The blurb on the back of the book states that it “peels back the layers of the global wardrobe to reveal the naked truth about the big name ‘it’ brands we swear by and the cheap clothes we can’t live without”.
I don’t know about you, but the blurb on the backs of books, combined with the front cover, are the two determining factors that make me want to open and read page one, or close it and move on.
That back blurb made me want to read on. Immediately. And I’m glad that I did. Because of the research-based and journalistic style of this book, I found it very credible. I also found it very compelling.
This book takes us on an interesting journey. And what was so fascinating for me was how it leads all of us who are on our individual, personal shopping journeys to a mega highway. A mega highway that has “global consequences” written all over it.
Very interesting reading; the author gives a deep vision of what really happens behind our clothes. She gets to the core of how raw materials are archieved, the industry behind the labels, which is already interesting enough to suggest this book.
However I found it quite confusing a times and way too demanding as well as discouraging. It is not feasable to ask any clothing industry to change its business model overnight. You cannot expect for them to sell to mass consumers ethically. Also, no person on Earth could realistically make a perfect ethical decision and control the entire process of the supply chain.
Some parts, get beginner readers confused about were to look and how to identify cleaner shopping options. For unaware readers it may sound like green washing and starting efforts towards more ethical and eco-friendly are just as bad and just as "unethical". To me, this is a big mistake. Today, what L. Siegle dreams of is completly unrealistic and absolutely unarchievable. Fashion is actually inherintantly incompatible with the ethics this book promotes. As long as design evolves, trends change, seasons go by... it will be impossible to minimize production. Mass consumption and o poor quality are in my opinion the 2 biggest and most urgent issues to solve.
To sum up, I would say I enjoyed the book quite a lot for the enlightening view on the supply chain industry. However, in order to help consumers make better decisions and slowly transitioning into a more conscious shopping education I would better recommend something like the diamond chart, Greta Eagan explains in her book "Wear no evil".
Following on from reading about the environmental issue of saving the bees, (it seems to be a theme for my reading choices at the moment) I pulled ‘To Die For’ off the shelf.
I have no idea how I came to own this book, and it was originally published in 2011 so is a little dated now. But Siegle’s commentary on ‘Fast Fashion’ is a real eye opener...
Now having a tiny bit more of an inkling as to the processes that go into making something that I’ve always taken for granted - and the exploitation of workers, animals, and the environment that happens along the way; I’ll never look at clothing the same way again.
Lucy Siegle puts forward a very accessible and comprehensive look at fast fashion and big clothing business. She covers everything, from fabrics, to people, to retailers, to high end fashion, what happens to our charity donations, and how we can make better choices (hint: this includes shopping with smaller ethical businesses and brands, looking for sustainable fabrics, and buying second hand).
I was shocked, and will be attempting to look at the clothes I buy more carefully and avoiding the usual payday haul.
I recommend this book to anyone who wears clothes (I’m assuming most of us), but particularly to those with an invested interest in the fashion industry, and how it can be made fairer for all.
I have spent way too much money on clothes over the past year - how do I know this? Well firstly their is the bulging wardrobe, the fact my clothes don't all fit into the storage I had; the constant stream of deliveries to my home; and never being able to leave a supermarket without at least a new item or two. Is this sustainable, well no, but to truly understand the affects this was having on not just my wallet and my home, I picked up this book by Lucy Siege on Fashion. I have been on the hunt for the perfect wardrobe looking exclusively at style - but it seems that I have been missing a very obvious and glaringly issue; sustainability and not just for the planet, but for the people who make our clothes. Each section of this book was eye opening; from the impacts on the people all the way through to the environment and even for some countries and regions across our globe local economies. Whilst no doubt some of the details in this book are dated - and doesn't look at the proliferation of the internet on shopping habits (SheIn I'm looking at you) however, the data is startling. Overall, this book made me want to shop less, shop better (no impulse shopping) and start shopping more ethically and even learn to mend. Now to find a book on mending and altering clothes.
"We all have a part to play, and if you engage with life, you will get a new set of values, get off the consumer treadmill and start to think, and it is this great thinkers who will rescue the planet." - Vivienne Westwood
Everything you want to know about the unsustainability of the Fashion Industry is in this book - offering a comprehensive explanation, really useful even though sometimes it was quite a tough piece to read. This is to the books what The True Cost is to the Documentaries about fashion.
One negative point is that this book is from 2010, therefore this is just the begining towards the Sustainable Fashion way: is the industry still the same after 8 years?
Also something I am often finding in those books, or mostly not finding - is the importance given to solution. The book is ending on a really small chapter about the Perfect Wardrobe, giving ideas on how to build an eco-conscious closet - but even there, the author has to point out the negative (I am not sure I am sharing her vision about Vintage for example)...
A well researched insight into the fast fashion industry and it's hidden cost. An inspiring read. Siegle has more passion for environmental issues than I (being more concerned about the people involved in the process personally). There was the odd time as I read that I started to wonder what exactly the author thought we could do (as there was so much about what isn't helpful or isn't enough), and as you might expect the author writes from a rather privileged position which can occasionally blind her (it would seem) to the difficulty of actually having a budget - she writes frequently of her own purchases and she can rest assured she has a lot of buying power compared to your average consumer.
Overall worth the time and definitely a book that will change the way you think (at least about your clothing)
This was quite a thorough examination of the fashion industry at the time it was written (2011), but it also carries to the modern days, as the fashion industry is not quick to change. It discusses the different fibres and how people, animals and the planet are dying for them, how different processes are required to make fabrics, how faulty the supply chains are and how naively we consumers believe into global fashion companies when they promise they are doing what they can. It leaves some things unsaid, and in some cases, I would've wanted a bit more examination into different aspects of some parts of the industry. It seemed to run a bit on what the author herself was more interested in.
Nevertheless, it is a good book to understand the main themes of what is wrong with the fashion industry, and definitely a read that all fashion students, and why not all consumers, should read.
A great insight into the impact of fashion and how our consumption of clothing has changed. The book goes into detail on all aspects of the clothing supply chain; material production and origin, workers pay and conditions, animal exploitation, chemicals and energy needed for production and water/natural resources. It ends on an optimistic note with recommendations for consumers.
The book is a little outdated since it was originally published in 2011. However, it's worth noting that the overarching situation has not improved since publication; yes there are more sustainable brands now and more consumers are aware of the perils of fast fashion, but I think a revised version would have chapter on 'haul' culture in social media, microtrends and the constant consumption promoted via online brands.
Es un libro completísimo sobre moda sostenible, con mucha información y referencias de todo tipo, por lo que conviene leerlo despacio, parando para hacer consultas y reflexiones. Se exponen desde injusticias sociales y animales al otro lado del planeta hasta desafíos medioambientales en torno al sector de la moda, pasando por todas las etapas de vida de una prenda.
El libro termina con reflexiones sobre cómo podríamos llegar a elaborar "el armario perfecto", que en mi opinión son muy acertadas.
Destacaría que, al contrario que otros libros de moda sostenible, este no deja de lado el aspecto de la moda en favor de la sostenibilidad, si no que los integra a los dos a la perfección. Totalmente recomendado para los interesados (y ya algo conocedores) de la sostenibilidad en moda.
This book took me on a real journey. I knew about the issues with the fast fashion industry based on documentaries watched but reading about the environmental, human and animal impact in such detail is deeply concerning. I have been convinced to no longer purchase fast fashion pieces at all and I am more inclined to seek second hand alternatives. Even just this weekend I had second thoughts on a fast fashion purchase as a result of this book. I would recommend this book to everyone, as when we become more mindful about our purchases and have the whole picture of the supply chain for these items, I believe we do have a chance to improve our consumer habits. Overall, this book was excellent and taught me a lesson or two about my own habits.
WOW What an amazing well researched books- this book will certainly open your eyes....not in a good way to the fashion industry. Fast fashion, Fashion waste, how our clothes are made, sourced and resold/recycled - You may well find yourself disappointed when you read about your favorite designers policies. They maybe be advertising Fair trade or organic cotton yet the garments are being produced in a sweatshop in Bangladesh, where workers are paid $1 per day -
It is not a book you read in one sitting- it is one you take on a journey or in the coffee shop ! This really opened my eyes -Thanks Lucy !!
Well documented account of the social and environmental damages of the fashion industry written in a tone of voice that aim to appeal to fashionistas trying to open their eyes on this topic. But the book starts to date a bit (2011) which is why I wouldn't recommend it: surely we need an updated version of this that takes into account the ultra ultra fast fashion and marketplace players such as Shein or Alibaba which have changed the landscape to be even worse than what is described in this book. But the book is still relevant as an historical account, in particular for the focus on the 90s to 10s transformation of the fashion industry.
This opened my eyes to the world of fashion even more. The facts and figures are heartbreaking yes, but the passion and inspiration that I got from this book has led me to look deeper into the problematic issues our fashion industry through my masters degree.
Thank you Lucy Siegle for being utterly amazing at your research and your dedication to making fashion real again. Amazing.
A massively detailed and extremely well researched book on the production life cycle of different types of clothing (based on material) as well as the unsustainability behind mass production / fast fashion; I found the detail super helpful and gained a lot of knowledge about textiles, production and what is a living wage/ humane working conditions
Analyses clothing from lots of angles, giving a good overview of both environmental and social/human costs of fashion. Also provides lots of solutions and steps that both companies and consumers can take reduce the harm in the cycle.
A must-read for anyone in the developed world. Clothing is ubiquitous. We often forget, or are happily ignorant about, the origins and production of clothing and fashion accessories. I look forward to becoming a more mindful consumer after having read this book.
I pre-ordered this book ahead of its release in 2011 after reading every single article Lucy Siegle had ever written whilst I was studying at University. It didn't disappoint. It's a real eye-opener and a perfect read for anyone wanting in-depth answers about the origins of their wardrobe.
This book is so well researched and written - a great insight into the inner workings of every aspect of the garment making process. Despite being almost 10 years old, a lot of the truths laid out in this book disappointingly still ring true today.
Very well researched! My favourite book that I have read on this topic so far. I've been researching fast fashion for a while and I love reading about it from different perspectives. Very interesting!
The stories in this were very compelling and there were many fast fashion impacts that I had not previously considered. My favorite parts were the chapters focused on fibers and the one-page highlights for products. I did find myself skimming several sections here and there, as they seemed repetitive sometimes and I didn't need quite as many of her personal anecdotes. This is also an older book (~2011), so I would also love to see an updated version!
"To Die For" is a compelling exposé on the dark side of the fast fashion industry. Investigative journalist Lucy Siegle delves into the environmental and social impacts of our obsession with cheap, disposable clothing, revealing the exploitation of workers and the devastating toll on the planet. Through meticulous research and storytelling, Siegle shines a light on the urgent need for change in the way we produce and consume fashion.
Really interesting and well researched book. Perfect for anyone who enjoyed Stacey Dooley's documentary and wants to dig a little deeper. Has given me food for thought in many areas.