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His journey took him from violent and dangerous cities to ancient Mayan ruins lying still unexplored in the jungles of Mexico and Guatemala. He encountered members of indigenous tribes, migrants heading towards the US border and proud Nicaraguan revolutionaries on his travels, where at the end of it all, he attempted to cross one of the most impenetrable borders on earth: the Darien Gap route from Panama into South America.
This trek required every ounce of Levison Wood's guile, tact, strength and resilience in one of the most raw, real and exciting journeys of his life.
297 pages, Kindle Edition
First published February 23, 2017
"My journey attempts to link the two. Mexico to the Darién, bringing out a little bit of the past along the way. This book doesn’t intend to present a comprehensive geo-political narrative, nor does it pretend to cover the vast history of this complex and often misunderstood region. It is, instead, a tale of adventure in the modern age.
Perhaps the title is misleading. Those readers who picked up this book expecting a jaunt across the United States will be sorely disappointed. I don’t even set foot in that great country. Nor do I so much as peek a glimpse at anything in South America. Except literally dipping my toes into Colombia, this book is solely a journey through Central America. But, like Keats, in his bid to avoid an extra syllable, I decided that anything more than ‘Americas’ would be a mouthful, so I’ve left it at that. Moreover, for almost a hundred years after Columbus first laid eyes upon this verdant region, the Americas was Central America. For its formative decades, Central America and the Caribbean coastline was the hub of the ‘New World’.
"...Having said that, there are much the same amoebic and bacillary dysenteries to deal with, yellow and blackwater and dengue fevers, malaria – of course – and cholera, typhoid, hepatitis, tuberculosis and rabies. Then there’s some very special extras. Bot fly, for instance, whose larvae bore into your scalp, eat your flesh from the inside and then, forty days later emerge as inch-long maggots. Chagas disease, likewise, is rather gruesome. Here, the assassin bugs bite you on the face, and then, gorged, defecate next to the puncture. When you scratch the resulting itch, you rub the shit and their cargo of protozoa into your bloodstream and then between one and twenty years later, you die from incurable brain damage.
River blindness is no less pleasant. Blackfly transmit a particularly determined kind of worm that migrate into your eyeball. Then there’s leishmaniosis – a flesh-rotting disease, a bit like leprosy, which eats away at your warm extremities. Let’s not forget Zika virus either, which emerged as a freak exotic malady in 2015, causing an epidemic of shrunken-headed babies across Latin America.
I asked my friend and tropical-disease expert Dr Will Charlton what he thought my chances were. I was assured that if I didn’t succumb to at least one or two of the above, then I should consider myself very lucky indeed. Of equal concern was, of course, all the stuff that I would likely encounter in or around my jungle campsites to come. Vampire bats have been known to bite humans and transmit rabies, giving rise to the zombie myth. The bushmaster viper can grow up to twelve feet long, but generally bites only if you stand on it. The fer-de-lance (seven and a half feet) can be more aggressive and chase you across the road. Anacondas are likely to be found in the rivers and will crush you to death.
In Belize, the tarantulas can grow to the size of saucers; black widow spiders inhabit every drainpipe and are fifteen times as poisonous as a rattlesnake, whereas bullet ants are a mere nuisance with only twenty-four hours of excruciating, debilitating agony on the cards. My personal horror was the prospect of yet more crocodiles lurking in the depths of the swamps I would inevitably have to wade through..."
"The basic problem of the Darién Gap is that it’s one of the toughest hikes there is. It’s an absolute pristine jungle, but it’s got some nasty sections with thorns, wasps, snakes, thieves, criminals, you name it. Everything that’s bad for you is in there …
We had probably been travelling a week before it happened … at about 11.44 in the morning, three Kuna Indians passed us on the trail, and all of a sudden we heard automatic gunfire for about three minutes, about a half a mile from us. Our guides ran away – they dropped our stuff and just took off … I suggested we walk into the ambush, as opposed to try to hide or run away … So we decided to talk very loudly in English and keep together as a group and let them know we were coming. It took about a half hour for them to calm down because they were so amped up … they were wired and twitchy, shouting and yelling … they killed four people from Paya, and they burned Púcuro to the ground … The Darién Gap is an extremely dangerous place … It’s used as a conduit for drugs. There are no police there, there’s no military, the trails aren’t marked … The jungle there is not viewed as a place that is pristine and beautiful – it’s looked at as a place where you get killed."