I'd give this book 3 1/2 stars.
"Street With No Name" is a very interesting and very personal memoir of Kapka Kassabova's childhood in Bulgaria, and a travelogue chronicling several return trips to visit relatives and discuss the sights. The author appears to have also written a travel guidebook, probably during those same trips, and this book reads more like a diary of those trips. The first part mostly describes her growing up in Sofia, discussing her life in school, various activities such as the Pioneer groups (somewhat similar to the Boy/Girl Scouts), and contrasting the deprivations of life in socialist Bulgaria with the luxuries of the West (brought into sober focus by her parents' trips to the Netherlands and a visit by some Dutch colleagues). She also discusses her coming of age, getting into a French-language high school, and her family's eventual exodus to New Zealand.
The second half of the book chronicles her trips throughout Bulgaria; the chronology is sometimes a bit unclear, since there are at least three trips interwoven, some to different regions of Bulgaria, and with multiple visits to her aging relatives. She covers most of the major regions of Bulgaria, and her anecdotes include very vivid, slice-of-life interactions with local people, highlighting their conditions, attitudes, and (sometimes) prejudices. While a bit non-linear, I felt this part actually captured quite well the odd mixture of nostalgia and disorientation that one gets when revisiting a place that is full of memories from several trips but that has changed dramatically each time.
Kapka does manage to work in a great many of the large and small cultural highlights of Bulgaria. She discusses most of the major regions, has some discussion of food, works in many significant historical events of Bulgaria (e.g., the 500 years under the Turks, saving its Jews from the Nazis during World War II, the forcible renaming of Turks in the mid-80s) as well as many cultural details (the wedding music of Ivo Papasov, pop-folk/chalga/silicone divas, the fear that air currents will make you sick; I don't think she managed to work in the one about how women shouldn't sit on concrete because of the fear that their ovaries will freeze, however). The descriptions of the horrors of public toilets was particularly graphic, and not (at all!) exaggerated. Similarly, the descriptions of maniacal taxi-driver speeding and perilous potholes is spot-on (I personally have flown down Tsarigradsko Shousse in a taxi at over 100 MPH and feared for my life similarly).
My reaction to this book is that it struck me as very Bulgarian, in several senses that I shall attempt to explain. It is fairly typical for Bulgarians to exaggerate a certain amount when describing a situation: if something happened twice, they will usually say it happened four times; if six times, they will often say 100. Recipients of such statements tend to take this into account when interpreting the statements. Thus, when I retold several of the anecdotes to a Bulgarian who grew up around the same time in the same places, they were met with some skepticism (e.g., she thought that Kapka's father being unable to find a store to buy potatoes in the summer in Bansko was more likely due to his unfamiliarity with the town), and she found the story of Kapka's mother being overcome by the luxury of a Dutch bathroom similarly difficult to swallow.
The author spends a rather significant part of the time on the cultural injustice of the ethnic minorities being forced to change their names to Bulgarian ones in order to "assimilate" them, though she focuses a lot on the Turks, and I think rather less so on the Roma (Gypsies), who suffer at least as much discrimination in Bulgaria and worse conditions. Ethnic identity is a far more prominent (and complex) part of Balkan society than in modern America, in my opinion. For instance, as a Chinese-American watching the Olympics in Bulgaria once, I was assumed to be rooting for the Chinese team. Also, perhaps anomalously, one of the most patriotic Bulgarians I know is a Bulgarian Turk whom I believe was alive during the time of the renaming.
The one thing that I found rather hard to stomach about this book was the relentless undercurrent of pretentious self-loathing; the author takes significant pains to highlight the deprivations of the past and the grim aspects of the present. For instance, she spends a fair amount of time depicting Englishmen and the like as slavering, leering, greedy exploiters, ready to pounce on cheap Bulgarian properties (or, sometimes, her). This is also very Bulgarian, in the sense of perceiving themselves as "being at the mercy of the Great Powers". It would be naive and rosy not to acknowledge the fact that the country is wracked with corruption, gangsters (mutri), and so forth, but she likes to take certain facts and spin them into a narrative of backwardness. For instance, she begins with an anecdote about landing at the "worst-named airport in the world, Airpost Vrazhdebna (=Hostile)" and juxtaposing this discussion with a description of some Germans (who represent the modern, progressive West that Bulgaria strives to emulate). But there is a reasonable explanation, which is that it was built in the village of Vrazhdebna on the outskirts of Sofia (apparently that name comes from when that village was inherited by Bogomil heretics). Furthermore, it seems to me like a rather appropriate name from a superstitious point of view: an airport is a place that is perceived to be fraught with danger and risk (and, having flown in a Balkan Air Tupolev TU-154 out of that airport once, I can fully understand why). So, it seems appropriate that to ward off the threat of evil spirits and happenings, the airport has a powerful, warding name.
In any case, I found this book overall very interesting and informative. She makes a disclaimer up front that everything is true, as she remembers it, but explicitly disclaims any pretense of objectivity. Once, when a Bulgarian I know was dismissing the news reports we were watching about goings-on in the former Yugoslavia as "all lies", I tried to ask how one can ever know what the truth is if all the news you ever get is lies....she explained that her way (which I gathered was a common conceptualization of "truth" in the Balkans) was to listen to it all and then look in your heart to figure out what the truth really is. I feel that I should view the narrative presented in this book as having been filtered through this conceptualization of "truth". The material in this book is a very valuable source but I think it needs to be read and understood in context with other sources and experiences to gain a fuller picture of the history and culture of Bulgaria.