This book has been sitting on my book shelf since I bought it back in 2007. It always seemed like it would be interesting, but never enough to rise to the top of my "Read This Next" pile. Long January days are the perfect time to make the decision to either read or get rid of books that have sat for so long in oblivion.
The topics hit a lot of my buttons: learning more about the making and quality of different wines, learning the business of wine, and studying family dynamics. The author Julia Siler writes for the Wall St Journal, has an MBA and a Journalism Masters from Columbia, etc - no wonder it was in my comfort zone. Her background helped her write a very thorough, well documented book, though at times I found it too long, too detailed. I kept wondering how much shorter it could have been if it were being presented as a case study in an MBA program; it kept my attention for about 200 pages, but I sometimes found it getting tedious in the second 200 pages.
It is, as the book blurbs say, at times a "Greek tragedy, Shakespearean drama, Biblical strife, Freudian acting out, even a soap opera..". The titles of the four Parts of the book - Foundation, Construction, Expansion, Demolition - summarize the gist of what happened to the house of Mondavi over the 1906-2005 period. The fathers in the book all try to hold their families together and keep the family dynasty together, but each generation makes the same mistakes. It also makes you wonder whether inherited wealth always leads to the destructive feelings of entitlement.
My biggest take-away: Wine companies and brands trade and change over time, and most brands sell many different quality levels of wine. No point in being snobbish and saying you'll only drink Blah-Blah, since it could well be a cheap wine that is well (or heavily) marketed, or drastically different from other versions under the same label - stick with your palate. (In this regard, I thought of sports teams, where all the players and coaches change frequently - you might be attached to the terroir, but not really the team!)
++++
vocab:
18, 29, etc enology
77 tule fog (unique to Sonoma and Napa?)
355 pomace (not to be confused with pumice)
Weird trivia:
Mondavi pronunciation - always was Mon-da-vi in Europe, when family moved to America, Cesar changed pronunciation to Mon-Day-vi; first Mondavi wines were pronounced that way, then family fought and split, some wine under Mon-day-vi , some under Mon-da-vi; eventually (decades later) all switched back to European pronunciation (79, 380)
wine info:
140 component judging at tastings: look for relative sugar, yeast and alcohol amounts
217 the way wine is distributed and priced - interesting
268 oxidized wine is why it tastes vinegary
wine types/brands, etc:
162 Rothschild changed to chateau bottling
164 Woodbridge in 1.5 liter bottles
199 between Woodbridge and Mondavi
215 Gallo traditionally jug wine
241 "if you were going for high quality, why did you sell at Costco?"
243 levels of wine at Kendall Jackson (lowest Woodbridge, "popular premium", 3-7 a bottle, higher wines Robert Mondavi Napa Valley and Byron wines for1 14-20, then super premium Robert Mondavi Napa Reserve and Opus One more than 20 - VIchon was supposed to fill the 7-14 gap)
251 no specific appellation
256 new flange tops
264-5 Languedoc wine - region in France, compared to Bordeau, - now I want to visit, sounds great
287 white Zinfandel considered a starter wine, sweet unsophisticated
308 two buck Chuck - has, heard about this when kids were in college, didn't know background (sold only at Trader Joes, sold under the Charles Shaw label, which had once been an upscale Napa brand; label bought by Franzia and turned into a low-price phenomenon
309-10 and Franzia - fascinating
332 Sands Brothers - makers of "rot gut Manischevitz", now run biggest wine business in world (bought out so many others)
341 "lifestyle" wine (under $15) vs premium or luxury (Woodbridge and Mondavi Private Selection are lifestyle wines)
Business aspects:
18 - wine consumption in US more than doubled during prohibition years from 60 million to 150 million gallons - due to loophole in VolsteadAct permitting families to make wine at home for their own consumption
291 kicked Michael Mondavi upstairs to become Chairman
338 the two classes of stock that Mondavi had created to retain family control - gave it up, mistake?
339 the cost of philanthropy - Robert Mondavi had over-pledged - family lost control basically due to trying to honor this so as to not embarrass him
357 employee count dropped from 1100 to 300 in one year
358 the Mondavi name is now owned by Constellation
380 charity auctions of wine - Napa had been biggest, most prestigious, now Naples FL is bigger
Random:
Falcon Crest, TV show in 80s, apparently modeled on Mondavi family
273 - quite the menu - would be fun to try to duplicate this meal!