Mad about the Mekong: Exploration And Empire In South-East Asia

by John Keay

The story of both a dramatic journey retracing the historic voyage of France’s greatest 19th-century explorer up the mysterious Mekong river, and a portrait of the river and its peoples today.

Any notion of sailing up the Mekong in homage to Francis Garnier has been unthinkable until now. From its delta in Vietnam up through Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, Burma and on into China, the Mekong has been a no-go river, its turbulent waters fouled by ideological barriers as formidable as its natural obstacles. But recently the political obstacles have begun to be dismantled – river traffic is reviving.

John Keay describes the world of the Mekong as it is today, rehabilitating a traumatised geography while recreating the thrilling and historic voyage of Garnier in 1866. The French expedition was intended to investigate the ‘back door’ into China by outflanking the British and American conduits of commerce at Hong Kong and Shanghai. Two naval gunboats headed upriver into the green unknown, bearing crack troops, naturalists, geologists and artists. The two-year expedition’s failures and successes, and the tragedy and acrimony that marked it, make riveting reading.

Genres: History, Travel, Nonfiction, Asia, China, 19th Century, Biography

294 pages, Paperback

First published January 31, 2005

About the author

John Stanley Melville Keay FRGS is an English journalist and author specialising in writing popular histories about India and the Far East, often with a particular focus on their colonisation and exploration by Europeans.

John Keay is the author of about 20 books, all factual, mostly historical, and largely to do with Asia, exploration or Scotland. His first book stayed in print for thirty years; many others have become classics. His combination of meticulous research, irreverent wit, powerful narrative and lively prose have invariably been complimented by both reviewers and readers.

UK-based and a full-time author since 1973, he also wrote and presented over 100 documentaries for BBC Radios 3 and 4 from 1975-95 and guest-lectured tour groups 1990-2000. He reviews on related subjects, occasionally speaks on them, and travels extensively.

Reviews

[Daren · Rating 3 out of 5]

The main focus of this book is the 1886 French Mekong Exploration Commission, and their journey from the mouth of the Mekong to explore and map the path of the Mekong to its source. While this journey is being recounted, Keay adds in prior history, as well as subsequent history of the relevant area.

This is a mostly successful method of examining the Mekong, but it does take some concentration, as one can be suddenly thrust from 1886 twenty years ahead to the game between Britain and France in attempting to provide some distance between British Burma and French Indochina - using the Shan states (now divided amongst Myanmar, China and Vietnam).

It is also noted that there is no travel associated with this book - something I had mistakenly thought was to happen in this book - you know, modern travel along the same route to provide comparison and modern context to the historical travel. No, this is desktop history.

I struggled to maintain my own momentum in reading this book. I looked back, and I have read around a dozen other books between starting and finishing this book. It isn't that it is not interesting, but I found the pace didn't vary, and it didn't really build up towards an ending. There were a number of passages I found excellent, but an even greater number that that moved through the story.

One of the interesting aspects for me was mentioned in the introduction. The Mekong Exploration Commission out-marched David Livingstone, and out-mapped Stanley, and out-shone them in their display of sociological categorising, economic sleuthing and political effrontery. Despite all of this, the French don't celebrate their explorers the way the British do. After they return to France, the members of the commission, while being rewarded with new positions, were not heralded. There were no statues, no commemorations or museum displays. Ironically, the (British) Royal Geographic Society awarded Garnier the Victoria Medal.

In balance, for me, this sits around 3.5 stars, but rounded down, as it didn't hold me to the task of reading as it should have.

[R · Rating 4 out of 5]

Mad About the Mekong, by John Keay
HarperCollins, 2005

I picked this up while rooting around the travel section in the library looking for a travelogue on mainland Southeast Asia. Well, specifically on Vietnam. I’ve been kind of obsessed with Vietnam since I went there last year, and it’s kind of frustrated me that nearly all the English-language literature I find about the country is about the Vietnam War. It’s as though, in the international consciousness, the place didn’t exist before the war, and now that the war has ended it has returned to its normal state of non-existence and irrelevance.

Yeah, well, anyway. End of Asian History student rant.

Mad About the Mekong isn’t exactly a travelogue; it’s more of an historical account. It’s about the French Mekong Exploration Commission, spurred on by their desire for colonial expansion into the region, in order to compete with other European powers and their imperial expanses. With India and China already snapped up, as it were, by the other colonial powers, what was left for the French were just the vast swamplands of the Mekong Delta. Sandwiched as they are between South and East Asia, between India and China, these lands were soon to become collectively dubbed ‘Indo-China’ by the French in their desperate hopes to see the region match up to its two namesakes.

As Keay points out, the expedition is not particularly well-known today, despite the heavy task of mapping and scientifically examining the Mekong River and its surroundings that they undertook. Before I go any further, I think it would explain a lot it I pointed out that Keay is British, because the introduction of the book does consist of a lot of juxtaposition between the British and the French colonial attitudes – which is tangentially related to the Mekong expedition, I suppose.

According to Keay, the British are somehow more at ease and more nostalgic with their imperial heritage than the French are; the French are more likely to condemn as an outright business move, made to keep economically competitive with the rest of Europe, without any overt noble intentions. I’m not quite sure which of these views Keay espouses – possibly neither, just a vague sheepishness about the whole affair. I’m not sure I agree with his brief

The Commission, as it turns out, didn't go too well. The problems that face the explorers come fast and thick, in an almost farcical manner – malaria, torrential rains, inconsistent water levels forcing them to abandon their barge and take to kayaks, imposing rapids forcing them to abandon the river altogether and take to dry land...

The title “Mad About the Mekong” is a translation of a line written by Francis Garnier, the unofficial second-in-command on the bungling expedition – “monomanie de Mekong”. Garnier is described as some kind of unpleasant, overly-precocious toff with hideous pretension who thinks too highly of himself. Actually the interaction between the members of the Commission is a pretty interesting study in group dynamics, though I must admit that I felt like the interpersonal stuff wasn't nearly as extensive as I'd have hoped for. To be fair, that's probably due to the lack of information available - their journals focus more on their observations than on sniping at each other, and rightly so - so I think it would be fair to say that Keay actually did a pretty good job in making these historical characters interesting with the limited sources available.

What I liked most about Mad About the Mekong, though, is the way it juxtaposes the Mekong Delta of the past with how it is today. The area, of course, has seen a great many developments in the years since the Expedition – colonial rule; decades of underground resistance; wars in Vietnam, Burma, Cambodia; suffering, destruction, death; the establishment of communist states; the creation of new states of people who do not consider themselves and their cultures similar in any way. It is simply fascinating to think about how the geopolitical situation in the region has changed so much in the years that have elapsed (colonial powers tussling for prominence, the creation of Laos as a result, etc.) and yet how similar it still is in so many ways. All these years later, as Keay puts it, the region stays impenetrable and dense, remains – as it has always been – “the Heart of Darkness”. Cue Jim Morrison and The End.

Yes, despite my lament about wanting to read stuff about the region that doesn't bring up the ‘American War’, this book does in fact bring up the 'American War'. Quite honestly, though, the current situation in the region is so tied up with the war, has been so shaped by it, that to attempt to describe how the region has changed in the years since the Commission embarked on their journey of exploration would be a horrendous omission. So, you know, at the end of the day I'm not going to complain about Keay's references to Conrad and Coppola (Francis Ford, not Sophia or Nicholas Cage), because acknowledging that they actually do matter is totally intrinsic to a comprehensive understanding of mainland Southeast Asia as it is today. And, as I said earlier, the comparisons between the past and the present is what I really liked about this book.

So, yeah, this is a balanced look at a very specific aspect of French colonial expansion in Southeast Asia, an adventure into unfamiliar territory with a nice dollop of drama and infighting for people who like that sort of thing (I know I do, as long as I'm not directly involved). I enjoyed it, and when I actually was able to find the time to read it I was genuinely hooked. 4 stars.

[Bruce Graham · Rating 5 out of 5]

As someone who has lived beside the river in three countries, perhaps it is more informative to me than to others. Although the author makes multiple digressions, the surprises on the pages resembled surprises the explorers experienced. The book is a journey, and like the journey it describes, things don't always turn out as expected.
Who knew that Laos was colonized to save the highlanders from being enslaved? Or about the giant catfish which seems to be disappearing? Although this is not the author's normal bailiwick, he did a great job.

[Thomas Barrett · Rating 4 out of 5]

A very entertaining yarn up the Mekong following in the footsteps of some French colonialists. I generally loved his lyrical writing style but I thought the explorers maybe deserved a *bit* more credit. They are usually depicted as comical, delusional and farcical - which maybe did them a bit disservice. They did slog up the river for 2 years and it wasn't a walk in the park. The writer is English though - nuff said!

[Bernie Gourley · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is largely, but not exclusively, an accounting of the Mekong Exploration Commission's two-year (1866-1868) expedition of the Mekong River. The French undertook this expedition in the expectation that the Mekong, like other of the world's major rivers, would allow ocean-going ships to traverse deep inland -- possibly even up into Yunnan, China. The explorers were quickly disabused of this notion, but they relentlessly kept going - despite suffering from disease and the exhaustion of a trip that involved a lot more portaging and other intense physical activities than they'd hoped for.

As I mentioned, Keay doesn't stick purely to description of the activities of these nineteenth century explorers. Along the way he also brings in fascinating stories from other periods as well as discussion of what the river is like (e.g. its ecology, infrastructure, role in geopolitics, etc.) these days. So, while it would be excessive to call the book a history of the Mekong, it is in some regards --- albeit the highlights reel. Some of the diversions were among my favorite parts of the book. Perhaps my favorite was the story of Tony Poe, whose story is said to be the model for Col. Kurtz of Apocalypse Now. I'd long heard that that movie was based on Joseph Conrad's Heart of Darkness, and it is (the name "Kurtz" is clearly from Conrad's novella, though Poe's occupation more closely mirrors the Col. Kurtz character played by Marlon Brando.)

While the book sometimes shines the light more broadly than the Mekong Exploration Commission Expedition, it also narrows its focus much of the way, putting the expedition's most colorful character, Francis Garnier, front and center. Garnier was not only the most intriguing member of the leadership, he also led the group to what was the end of the line for the expedition, deep in China, when the Captain, Ernest Doudart de Lagree, became incapacitated by disease.

If you're interested in history, travel, or exploration, I'd recommend this book.

[William Milks · Rating 4 out of 5]

Background of the French effort in Indochina and story of the Mekong Exploratory Commission.

Good writing and nicely paced. Good mix of history and travelogue/adventure. I will definitely seek out more Keay; he has some interesting titles.

Anyone intending to travel through SE Asia should read this. Anyone who likes the colonial age of exploration will enjoy - Livingston, Speke, Burton, Mouhot, et al.

[Prayash Giria · Rating 2 out of 5]

A detailed, but ultimately laborious and unimaginative narration of an obscure and thoroughly miserable French colonial expedition up the Mekong river. Keay’s passion and scholarship on the subject is undeniable, and he does offer interesting insights and contemporary commentaries in places. These, however, come too few and far in between, leaving the bulk of the text to be an extended Wikipedia article of sorts.

[Ratratrat · Rating 3 out of 5]

Un libro curioso, che aiuta a capire la storia dell'Indocina francese. E non la scrive un francese, ma un inglese. L'esplorazione del Mekong dalle foci fino alla Cina è occasione di un racconto pure di altre esplorazioni e di come è attualmente il luogo. Confini che son cambiati, ho imparato che fino al 1907 Angkor era in Siam ( Thailandia) e non in Cambogia, per dire. Molto interessante, con la riserva che a volte salta un po' troppo fa viaggio originario, viaggio attuale, altri viaggi

[E B Halton · Rating 3 out of 5]

Very disappointing account of the exploration

This book had little to say about the expedition proper and went into rambling narrative about modern Indo China and became bogged down in stodgy writing. Very disappointing

[Kes · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting book about the history of the French exploration into the Mekong. I liked the interweaving of the geopolitical concerns (France wanted a piece of the colonial pie, opposite British interests) and geography (the descriptions of the Mekong river).

[Sophie · Rating 4 out of 5]

Excellent story of the French expedition up the Mekong in the 1860s and also of the history since then.

[Pam Ela · Rating 2 out of 5]

Exploration of te Mekong. Verbose.

[Mark Henwick · Rating 4 out of 5]

A fascinating account of the French expedition up the Mekong in 1866.
If this party had been any other nationality, I suspect there would be statues and stories of the national heroes. As it is, it fell to the Royal Geographical Society to honour Garnier in his lifetime, and John Keay to tell their tale many years later. France is very muted about Indo-China.
What a tale it is to tell. Garnier himself was not the leader of the expedition, but on the death of Lagree from illness in China, he assumed that position. It's simply not done to thrust oneself forward in that manner, but I feel that Garnier may well have been the source of dark energy that powered this exploration. He willingly admitted that he suffered 'monomanie de Mekong', from where the title is taken.
Keay draws telling comparisons with Kurtz in Heart of Darkness, and brings alive the madness that kept the party moving up the river long after proof that it was not navigable, which was the ostensible reason for their survey. Funds ran out, equipment and clothing was worn out, destroyed or simply abandoned as excessive, travel permissions failed, men died and still they clawed their way onward.
The Mekong rises in Tibet, and they got nowhere near there, but still managed to out-march Livingstone and out-map Stanley. The river passes through what we now call the Golden Triangle, as well as half a dozen states and areas of disputed ownership full of displaced peoples and conflicting religions or beliefs.
It has illustrations and descriptions of the people and geography, the politics and conflicts. It is informative on conditions then and sheds some light on subsequent developments in the area.
I recommend it for anyone interested in exploration, expeditions or this region of the world.

[Simon · Rating 4 out of 5]

A fascinating and inspiring tale of colonial exploration and adventure in which the author recounts the story of the original Mekong expedition of 1866, interspersed with his own account of life on the Mekong today as he retraces their ‘steps’. Keay’s eloquent descriptions are almost tangible, breathing life in to the river and the truly intrepid characters. The romantic ideology of Garnier was responsible for driving the expedition forward in the face of adversity, and also their dwindling numbers, quelle surprise.

South-East Asia has changed so much over the past few centuries that a brief history of the region and the people who inhabit it are essential to make sense of it all. As the history of the region is inextricably linked to the Mekong, this book is perfect; it uncovers interesting snippets that are not gleaned from travelling through the region and that you’re unlikely to find in travel guides.

Never has the word awesome been more apt than when describing the mighty Mekong. If this book doesn't leave you burgeoning with wanderlust, best lock your doors and windows; you're suffering from acute agoraphobia. A slight exaggeration, but nevertheless essential reading for anyone embarking on a trip to South-East Asia.

[Julian Haigh · Rating 2 out of 5]

Part history of the French Mekong Expedition in 1860s, part history of French-British colonial rivalry in the Siam, it is also part travelogue, part geography of the river, part biographies of Francis Garnier, Doudart de Lagree, and Louis Delaporte, and peppered with references to the Vietnam war and pethetic attempt to connect it to Frank Coppala's Apocalapse now... which was really Joseph Conrad's book on Congo. The whole thing is as difficult to follow as the last sentence.

Just read this article instead: http://end-of-empires-south-east-asia...

[Cjsavage · Rating 3 out of 5]

It took roughly 250 pages to get into this book; by that point, with tiredness creeping in, it was hard not to give Keay's book on French expeditions into the unknown Mekong in the 19th century, anything more than three stars. Although a wordsmith and buff in my own right, Keay's makes a chore out of looking up uncessarily complicated and rare vocabulary. This story, written with less verbosity and more oomph, would have been a triumph. Alas...

[Peter Macinnis · Rating 5 out of 5]

I read this while travelling on the Mekong, which was brilliant.

[Zechy · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fantastic story, fairly written, felt a bit short.

[Ryan · Rating 3 out of 5]

All you ever wanted to know about French exploration along this river, with interesting sidestories on history of certain portions like secret war in Laos, ho chi minh trail etc

[Aaron Trotter · Rating 5 out of 5]

Really good read, great historical account of the exploration of the Mekong river and also paints great scenes.