Coming to My Senses: The Making of a Counterculture Cook

by Alice Waters

The long-awaited memoir from cultural icon and culinary standard bearer Alice Waters recalls the circuitous road and tumultuous times leading to the opening of what is arguably America's most influential restaurant.

When Alice Waters opened the doors of her "little French restaurant" in Berkeley, California in 1971 at the age of 27, no one ever anticipated the indelible mark it would leave on the culinary landscape—Alice least of all. Fueled in equal parts by naiveté and a relentless pursuit of beauty and pure flavor, she turned her passion project into an iconic institution that redefined American cuisine for generations of chefs and food lovers.
In Coming to My Senses Alice retraces the events that led her to 1517 Shattuck Avenue and the tumultuous times that emboldened her to find her own voice as a cook when the prevailing food culture was embracing convenience and uniformity. Moving from a repressive suburban upbringing to Berkeley in 1964 at the height of the Free Speech Movement and campus unrest, she was drawn into a bohemian circle of charismatic figures whose views on design, politics, film, and food would ultimately inform the unique culture on which Chez Panisse was founded.
Dotted with stories, recipes, photographs, and letters, Coming to My Senses is at once deeply personal and modestly understated, a quietly revealing look at one woman's evolution from a rebellious yet impressionable follower to a respected activist who effects social and political change on a global level through the common bond of food.

Genres: Food, Memoir, Nonfiction, Biography, Audiobook, Cooking, Cookbooks

304 pages, Hardcover

First published September 5, 2017

About the author

Alice Waters is a chef, author, food activist, and the founder and owner of Chez Panisse Restaurant in Berkeley, California. She has been a champion of local sustainable agriculture for over four decades. In 1995 she founded the Edible Schoolyard Project, which advocates for a free school lunch for all children and a sustainable food curriculum in every public school.

She has been Vice President of Slow Food International since 2002. She conceived and helped create the Yale Sustainable Food Project in 2003, and the Rome Sustainable Food Project at the American Academy in Rome in 2007.

Her honors include election as a Fellow of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences in 2007; the Harvard Medical School’s Global Environmental Citizen Award, which she shared with Kofi Annan in 2008; and her induction into the French Legion of Honor in 2010. In 2015 she was awarded the National Humanities Medal by President Obama, proving that eating is a political act, and that the table is a powerful means to social justice and positive change.

Alice is the author of fifteen books, including New York Times bestsellers The Art of Simple Food I & II and The Edible Schoolyard: A Universal Idea.

Reviews

[Ally · Rating 2 out of 5]

I desperately wanted to like this book. I'm a huge fan of Alice Waters, her restaurant Chez Panisse, and the work that she has done with transforming the food culture in American. When the author was growing up, her family ate mostly convenience foods - mashed potato flakes, boxed cake mixes, etc. It wasn't until she spent a year abroad in France that she began to understand about flavor, freshness, and what it means to be thoughtful and intentional about your eating. She wanted to bring that experience back to her life in the US, so she opened her little french restaurant, Chez Panisse in 1971.

From the very beginning, there was a set menu that all diners were given. It changed daily (nowadays, weekly), based on what protein, fruits, and veggies are freshest. Because they tend to have more flavor and nutrients, the priority is for locally and organically-grown foodstuffs, shunning the factory-farms. Chez Panisse was really the beginning of the farm-to-table concept of dining, thus playing a massive role in revolutionizing the way Americans eat.

I, too, grew up with a family of non-cooks, so there were lots of "instant" and "pre-made" foods in the pantry. It wasn't until I was living on my own, after college, that I really paid attention to what I was eating and where it came from. This inspired me to learn to cook, and through which I discovered the Chez Panisse cookbooks. I've always identified with Alice, because of our similar food history, and considered her one of my greatest inspirations. I have first editions of all of her cookbooks (a few are signed), the restaurant's 40th anniversary commemorative book, a publishsed collection of beautifully designed menus, and the biography ALICE WATERS AND CHEZ PANISSE by Thomas McNamee. You could say that I'm a bit obsessed, which is why I was so excited to learn that she was releasing her memoir, COMING TO MY SENSES: THE MAKING OF A COUNTERCULTURE COOK. Unfortunately, it didn't live up to my expectations.

The story begins with Alice's parents, giving insight into their families, personalities, and relationships. Alice goes on to share a few pictures, anecdotes, and personal opinions about the culture and politics at play in her upbringing, as well as her relationship with her sisters, and memorable experiences that she had as a child. You follow her as she comes-of-age, explores romantic relationships, gets involved in politics and activism, and has her great food awakening - a movement that becomes a driving force in every aspect of her life. Much of this was covered in Thomas McNamee's book, but it was interesting to hear about it from Alice directly.

In fact, one of the most interesting parts of the book was not so much the material, but the way it was written. The authorial voice comes across exactly as if you sat with Alice for an afternoon and she told you her life story. Alice is famously a very passionate and opinionated person, idealistic, and a consummate snob - all of those qualities come through loud and clear in her writing. This isn't a negative comment on the book, it just speaks to the authenticity of the author. It may be off-putting to some readers, but I didn't mind it.

What really detracted from my enjoyment of COMING TO MY SENSES were its confusing organizational structure and its surface-level writing. I felt as though this book could have benefited greatly from a thesis statement. What exactly was the author trying to convey - her life story? The story of her restaurant's inception? Everything felt a bit muddled. In fact, the amount of odd details that the author shares, such as about the Berkeley clothing store owner who dressed Alice in the early days of Chez Panisse and then went on to become a Hollywood costume designer, were confusing and extraneous. It was sometimes difficult to surmise exactly the point that the author was trying to make.

The book is marketed as a memoir, which I found to be incredibly misleading. When I sit down with a memoir, I expect to be drawn into certain key moments from the author's life, and follow her through her reflections on those moments, analyzing and making deep meaning of them and how they have impacted her. What you find on the pages of COMING TO MY SENSES is an autobiography, and a surface-level one at that. There are brief moments where Alice goes into detail and analysis about things that are happening, but the vast majority of the book is "telling" the reader about her life rather than "showing"...almost a play-by-play but without any commentary. For someone who is so sophisticated about so many things, I was truly disappointed by the simplistic way in which she wrote this book.

For those who are interested in Alice Waters and her food awakening, there is a lot to like about her most recent book. You'll learn about her early years in New Jersey and Michigan, her involvement in campus protests and political activism in the San Francisco area, and her formative experiences with food and cooking. Her personality comes through clearly in her authorial voice, but there is a disconnect between that voice and the actual content of the book. To find a way to meld that voice and personality with some more focused, detailed, and in-depth reflections would be to make COMING TO MY SENSES a much more powerful and engaging story.

[Gail · Rating 1 out of 5]

I don't know why I even requested this book from the library. Generally, I'm interested in people who become chefs and what brought them to that vocation. Years ago, I read many books on fascinating chefs that were well written. This book is not one of them. Alice Waters should just stick to cooking and forget about penning a memoir. I could only get through half before I finally gave up. I found the writing to be juvenile, boring, with tons of name-dropping. It seemed very stilted to me. I couldn't care less about what she did, who her friends were, the people she met along the way, etc. This is definitely not a good piece of literature.

[Brandon Gaukel · Rating 5 out of 5]

I love this woman. This book is exactly what I want to read this week, I started it on a flight from Hawaii and just finished two days later. I swear by her cookbooks, she has changed my life and I got to meet her this year on the flight back from New York City. A GEM.

Way to go Alice waters, small groups change the world always.

[Melissa · Rating 2 out of 5]

Very fascinating but it takes place from her birth to Chez Panisse opening in 1971 (some mentions take place past this time). But it doesn't cover the most interesting parts of her life: running a restaurant for 45 years, her marriage, her daughter, Edible Schoolyard. I was disappointed as the last disc came to a close and this was all glossed over. Maybe one day there will be a part 2.

[Brittany · Rating 2 out of 5]

I realllyyyyy wanted this book to be good, because Alice is one of the most import Bay Area icons. The book left me constantly wanting to know more. She glosses over key moments in her life and doesn't really give herself enough credit for what she did in the Bay. It could have used a strong editor or ghost writer.

[Aria · Rating 1 out of 5]

---- Disclosure: I received this book for free from Goodreads. ----

Sadly, I didn't get through the book. I did my best for 3 or 4 days, and finally conceded that I just wasn't going to make it. I'm at somewhat of a loss as to explain why, though. I kept finding myself growing tired, or catching myself dazed out. I know I was not at all a fan of the way the timelines would jump from her youth to more recent events. It seemed to prevent any coherent tale from forming.

I thought I would like this book, as I had expected that I'd relate to the author. I'm not sure why I didn't. I think nothing ever became "real," as I was reading. The story was never made to be present in my mind; I just wasn't drawn in. I don't even know how to make recommendations for how to fix it. It seems like she had a nice family, and some of the bits related about her youth seemed like they had potential to be interesting if.............something. I don't know. There was no life to what I was able to push myself through. I'm honestly surprised this came off as it did, blander than boiled chicken between white bread. I can't recommend it as is. Perhaps a complete re-write by someone that could inject some flavor into it would salvage the project. Surely there's a story in there worth the paper, if it could be brought to life. I think there must be, but unfortunately it didn't appear in this version.

As I couldn't finish the sucker, I can't say that I liked it, or that it was even okay. It wasn't. I didn't hate it. I had literally no response to it whatsoever...like a flat-line reading experience. I just had to call it and move on, and that's not the sign of good writing, so I'm pretty much left with no other option but a 1 star response. I hate that it's this way, but anything else would be dishonest, so, sadly, here we are. I just want to say once more how surprised I am that this book didn't work. It sounded like it would be so enjoyable. I guess these things are going to happen sometimes. *sigh*

[Onceinabluemoon · Rating 5 out of 5]

4.5 rounding up because I'm so disappointed to see so many negative reviews, I want this to be extra positive. I totally enjoyed this book, although I have never dined at the restaurant I am very aware of it from my youth, as a native Californian it's been a long time institution. I didn't know she was so "counter culture", I enjoyed reliving the era with her. I listened with whispersynch and I always enjoy when the authors read their own works. I was completely entertained, never found it boring as so many have mentioned, for me it's always interesting to hear one's life, I found her quite candid from her youth on. How wonderful she found her calling young and has raised this child for 45 years plus and growing.

[Srishti Jain · Rating 3 out of 5]

I have such mixed feelings about this book - I LOVED Alice Waters’ descriptions of food, France, the Bay Area, little restaurants, etc etc but have a big issue with the thesis of the book being “I am a counterculture cook.” I think Waters’ used activism as an aesthetic and the political element of the book was really forced. All of her instances of activism were “I was walking past this protest in Berkeley” or “my boyfriend knew a Black Panther!” She has an insane amount of privilege and that’s what led to her restaurant - since she wrote a book about being “counterculture” she should have acknowledged how every system was built for someone like her. I would have just loved way more description of food and Chez Panisse. I will say the name dropping was fantastic.

Thanks Meredith for the rec! Also this book made me crave French bread and I just made baguettes.

[Kathy Cowie · Rating 3 out of 5]

3.5 stars
I decided to listen to this book because it is read by Alice Waters. While she cannot really compare to the many wonderful, professionally-trained actors who read audiobooks, I still enjoyed hearing the story from her. She is in her 70s now, I think, and there is something mind-blowing about hearing someone that age talk about how she payed for the building that is now Chez Panisse with the help of parents, friends, and some "un-named dope dealers." How she came to be such a culinary legend is a truly roundabout and fascinating story, and you should listen to it just to hear the names of all the people who dropped by before they were famous. Also, in perhaps the biggest understatement of the book, she admits turning down a dinner with her friend John Kott while she was living in London - he was in town to interview John Lennon (in 1967 or so), and she was too overwhelmed by the thought to join them for dinner. She admits, "in hindsight, that was probably a mistake." Her love of food is contagious, and her rapture about garlic and fresh-picked lettuce made my mouth water — has your mouth ever watered for the taste of lettuce? That's impressive. Her kitchen is a legendary rite of passage for some of the biggest names in the Slow Food movement. If you are any kind of cook or foodie, you will love this story.

[Jessica · Rating 3 out of 5]

I love Alice Waters and was extremely excited about this book, enough so that I grabbed an ARC months before it came out. And then...it took me forever to finish it. Unfortunately, much of the book was disappointing. The beginning was slow and mostly involved her family and upbringing. The writing felt juvenile and disjointed, and, sorry to say, boring. It finally picked up when she got to Berkeley and began talking more about food which is what I wanted to hear about in the first place. There was a general timeline but still little vignettes were included that threw that off and felt unnecessary or misplaced or just plain odd. I did learn more about Alice, her passion for food, her inspiration and style, some of the stories were amusing, and it did evoke some lovely memories of Berkeley and remind me of why I enjoy seasonal, farm-fresh, local foods, so all was not lost.

[Sally Anne · Rating 2 out of 5]

Wow. With no disrespect to Ms. Waters, she is no audio book reader. Her publishers did her a disservice by having her read. This book is wondrously dull. I listened i some low level amazement, as if looking at a wreck one would not expect. Ms. Waters lack of insight about her experiences, her friends, her entire trajectory is numbing in its lack of depth, nuance, and, hell, even interest. As a narrator, SHE doesn't even sound interesting or engaged.

All over the map.

Skip it.

[Sheri Schlondrop · Rating 2 out of 5]

So disappointed...I didn't know what to expect with this book - didn't read any reviews prior to buying it. Her writing style is... did she have an editor? I love the concept of her restaurant and would one day love to dine there, but she should have had someone else right her biography.

[Daniel Palevski · Rating 5 out of 5]

Simple and honest, I was very taken with Waters' clear and concise writing style as well as her willingness to be open and revealing. Often she criticizes herself has being naive, but this is the part of her I felt most pulled into.

I ate at Chez Panisse when I was in Berkeley about a month ago. I ate at the cafe and wasn't entirely blown away with the experience, but it was definitely a nice meal and a nice place to share a meal with friends. After reading the book, I can look back and say the lighting particularly helped create a cozy ambiance.

This book tells her life story and how she became a chef. Ultimately, she became considered one of the founders of new American cooking and the farm-to-table movement, but this book doesn't delve into those labels or classifications. In fact, it's almost as Waters tries to humble herself and avoid those accolades.

Instead, she focuses more on herself as a person and how she developed into her worldview. Some of the most interesting parts of the book are where she explains what she's like to see more of in society and the type of life she'd like to lead. Going to college in Berkeley, she became somewhat political, and these statements about our country and politics I thought resonated very well with me and what are country is facing today:

Pg. 93 - from the beach to Berkeley 

"When the dominant culture behaves immorally, the way the United States was about the war, civil rights, and freedom of public expression, you begin to feel betrayed."

"Somewhere along the way, in our country's rush to industrialization and consumerism, it began to feel like America had lost its humanity."

[Rebecca Wilkins · Rating 3 out of 5]

Well it starts with the pitiful photo on the front and doesn't progress much beyond that. Alice is a remarkable woman especially if you watch the PBS special on American Masters but I didn't get it from the book. She skips around and does tell all in regard to drugs and sex but it is all her early life that could have been covered in a couple chapters. There is nothing about her life after the restaurant got successful, her daughter and the edible school yard. These latter things I would have been more interested to read about than childhood. She also couldn't remember things at several points and that is either saying more about her age or her intellect. I have been to her restaurant twice, although only the cafe as the cost and not being able to choose what you eat prohibited the dinners downstairs. She influenced a lot of people and I like the concept of the edible school yard. I would have liked to read more about that. I can understand trying to protect her daughter by not covering those years and yet that also might have been interesting how she juggled motherhood and her by then successful career. I have been reading Charles Shere's blog "Eating Every Day" for several years. He is well into his 80's and whenever they are in Berkeley they eat at Chez Panisse. Now I realize they were/are original owners. I knew his "cook" had been a pastry chef there but didn't quite realize about the ownership. Alice probably should have let someone write a biography rather than trying to do it herself. She let others be the cook right from the start.

[Brian Heid · Rating 2 out of 5]

2.5 stars. I had never heard of Alice Waters until a friend selected this book for our book club, and while I was pretty engaged at first (particularly learning about her work as a chef and her early upbringing that directly informed that work) I found myself drifting as the book progressed. In the first place her narrative style has no (apparent) rhyme or reason: she jumps around the years in no discernible order, which often renders the narrative disjointed and clunky. Waters also never lets an anecdote pass by without name dropping someone famous, or someone that you should apparently know, and her attitude reeks of pretension. While I love learning about people who’ve done exciting and interesting things with their lives, I don’t have patience for someone who seems more interested in letting you know that she’s met more famous people than you can ever imagine.

[Linda · Rating 5 out of 5]

loved! Book ends at the opening of her cafe Chez Panisse. Participated in Free Speech Movement, Berkeley while she tried to make her cafe “perfect”. Lots of picture, very enjoyable.

[Riley · Rating 4 out of 5]

I’ll be honest, I did not know Alice Waters by name when I picked up this book. Then I start reading it, find her interesting, go home, pick up a cookbook I enjoy AND REALIZE SHE WROTE THE FOREWORD! Go Alice! Anyway, this book is deeply personal, descriptive, a little scatterbrained, and wholly interesting. Waters takes you through much of her life and the development of her personality and love for food. I found myself relating to her childhood, her love of meeting people and cooking for them, her obsession with discovering new foods and cultures, among other things. This book combines thoughts on food, counterculture, California, France, relationships… all things I love. HIGHLY recommend, especially for anyone who appreciates food, France, and friends.

[Audrey Brown · Rating 4 out of 5]

“Beauty is the language of care.” Charming and awe-inspiring. Alice Waters is indeed a beloved Berkeleyan and someone I would very much enjoy discussing the intricacies of life with over a home-cooked meal.

[Sophie Roberts · Rating 3 out of 5]

Very enjoyable but with the narrative quality of your favourite aunt telling you stories of her life at the dinner table four wines in.

[Dana · Rating 3 out of 5]

Fine. Maybe her cooking is better

[Anne · Rating 3 out of 5]

Book club strikes again! I've never been a foodie nor have I ever heard of Chez Panisse (apparently I missed that revolution -the only Alice's restaurant of legend I'm familiar with is Arlo Guthrie's) so, to put it plainly, I was completely uninterested and uninformed going into this. Further, from the complete lack of introduction, I think the author and the publisher assumed every one of us reading this book was aware of the illustrious history of the restaurant. Well, let me be the first to say, I wish I'd read the Wikipedia entry first.

Fortunately, I had primed myself (accidentally) by starting an even worse, even more scattered biography (I am not Spock) a few days prior. Not much else could make a slog through the middle-class upbringing of a (to me) random personage of completely bland, but still rather privileged upbringing, bearable. I'm sure I have much to thank for Alice's success (I love a good, bitter salad but I'm 1000% sure that's due to my friend Debbie [maybe Debbie was influenced by Alice Waters, for all I know] not Alice), but still her whole existence seems too mundane to warrant a 300-page book club read.

And while I do appreciate Alice's positive attitude (nary a negative word was uttered against anybody), by the end of the book I felt like I was at a funeral where the deceased was well on the way to being canonized. In other words, zzzzzzzzzzzz. Wish I'd still been awake to appreciate the details and excitement (hers, not mine) of the start of such a legendary (to many people who are not me) business.

3 stars - one whole extra star for being a fast read

[Lianne]

My book club has chosen this title for our June meeting. We plan to visit Chez Panisse, the famous restaurant Alice Waters founded in Berkeley in 1971. This memoir provides the back story of how Chez Panisse came to be. A young woman from New Jersey went to France on a year abroad, became a Francophile, and wanted to recreate the flavors she experienced as an impressionable student. She returned to the States, and went to UC Berkeley in the early 1960's, just as the Beat movement was waning, the Free Speech Movement was launched, and various students, artists, musicians and political personalities provided a rich atmosphere of incubation and support for her idea. As I read her account of putting her dream into practice in fits and starts, I often felt impatient with her self absorption. But by the end I came to see that it is that it is this kind of obsessive focus on a vision or idea that is needed to make a dream real. Alice Waters wanted to make a restaurant where she could entertain her friends. She succeeded not only in that goal, but in influencing American cuisine and helping to build a community for sustainable local food that became renowned beyond the borders of the United States. She is one of three iconic Californian women, who loved the foods of France, and honored that legacy by bringing them home and adapting them to America. They include: M.F.K. Fisher, Julia Child and Alice Waters. And in June I look forward to tasting what Chez Panisse will offer as the prix fixe menu of the day.

[Margaret · Rating 4 out of 5]

I enjoyed this book but towards the end I feel like the narrative lost steam and became repetitive. I enjoyed the beginning and middle where we learn about Alice’s childhood. Learning about her self discovery in college and her love of French food drew me in. This book also made me appreciate how different things are for women these days. There is still sexism but Alice opened a restaurant during a time when female business owners were an anomaly. Alice definitely communicates a passion for food as an experience and not just sustenance that is alluring and contagious to the reader.

A lot of her recounting of her past relationships and interactions with key players in the counter culture movement seemed almost idealized. Perhaps I’m cynical but she seemed to retain almost a naïveté about how “great it all was.”

If you are a lover of a great meal that is accompanied with the perfect wine while discussing art and film, Alice’s book will definitely touch your soul.

[Helen · Rating 4 out of 5]

I've only even been familiar with the reputation of Chez Panisse and the reverent tones by which American food journalists wrote about Alice Waters. I've yet to had the chance to visit her restaurant - I'd love to go one day - so this book was an incredible insight into not just the conception of the restaurant, but the life of Waters up until its opening.

Waters was so much more lively and funny and honest and self-deprecating than I thought. It's an offering, I suspect, that's just as heartfelt and consciously uncomplicated as her food.

[Leila · Rating 2 out of 5]

I really tried to like this book bc I think chez panisse/ alice waters are really cool but this book both had no plot, but also the writing was pretty scattered, she gave way too much time and credit to her old boyfriends, and was written in a very surface level/boring way. alas! i’m still excited to eat there

[Katy · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is such a lovely book. Waters is a fascinating woman and I loved hearing about her life. The story is not exactly linear but it is a rich and lively one. I want to visit Chez Panisse one day! Also a wonderful addition to my thoughts of the slow food movement.

[Hope Sherman · Rating 4 out of 5]

For anyone who loves food, art and film, loves 60's history and loves travel - especially to France, this will be enjoyable. Having been fortunate enough to have dined at Chez Panisse made this an especially delicious read!

[Gee · Rating 5 out of 5]

listened to the audiobook and cried the whole time idk why. soooooo good

[Maddie · Rating 3 out of 5]

being obsessed with men and France is not really giving counterculture…..

[mimoo · Rating 1 out of 5]

thought this book would be an ideally interesting and informative read for easing in the new year … so disappointed…kept looking forward to finishing the book because my gripes increasingly surfaced as it progressed. perhaps on me but i thought it would talk more than it did about food and the restaurant. despite their mentions, both felt like afterthoughts spliced in. i found it telling that a book marketed in its title for being counterculture and an author who term-dropped being politically left/counterculture so much felt more like a co-opting of these aesthetics without full understanding of their depth and importance. just a lot of white woman gaze and the writing came across self-absorbed, so western-biased despite my consideration for its context, and childish without whimsy.

there are many more but these bits summed it up best for me:

184: “David and I were immersed in England, but that didn't mean we were oblivious to what was happening politically back in the United States. There was no way to ignore it.
What was taking place in Vietnam was increasingly awful.
The war seemed to be just getting bigger, wreaking more and more havoc in Southeast Asia, threatening to take our friends away-threatening to take David away.”

analyzing the last sentence’s structure has been more interesting than the actual book. it shows waters’ (or her collaborators’) intentions and values. no naming of the southeast asian people, only a general “havoc in SEA,” which functions as the transient clause and vehicle for landing on the greatest perceived impact: the relocation of one’s immediate white friends and partner to us-imperialist occupied vietnam. this abstraction of southeast asia but individually named focus of self/extended whiteness (so still self) at the sentence’s end structurally and cerebrally centres that whiteness and the disturbances it encounters to its status quo as the emphasized and tangible horror. whiteness willfully refuses to decentre itself, because its function is supremacy. surely a self-labelled counterculture leftist should recognize that. i am reminded here of christina sharpe, in “ordinary notes,” note 17: “So much rehabilitated and reconstructed into that goodness and perpetual innocence that whiteness extends.”

and 189, on travelling hungary bulgaria turkey greece after school ended in 60s: “Somehow I wasn’t picturing the actual realities of the countries where we were going, just how I wanted to eat in particular places. Jon Cott had told me about Bulgarian music, too, and would play me records of the hauntingly beautiful peasant music. And somehow I had found out they made rose perfume in Bulgaria, so I was imagining fragrant fields of maroon roses, as part of this incredible culture of singing and dancing and drinking. And, of course, when we pulled into Sofia, we found it was under Soviet rule. We were absolutely shocked; it was all new buildings of cement and concrete, no cafés, no life on the streets, no trees. I remember thinking, We have to get out of here. All those romantic visions of countryside and perfume and dancing were just gone. We drove into Yugoslavia and got very drunk on slivovitz, the plum brandy that is a regional specialty.”

… it’s giving western projection of orientalist fantasies so that eastern countries function as a “rustic romantic” foil for their fetishized escapism …

i enjoyed the last chapter, the afterword, best. but an afterword which finally satisfactorily expresses the politics behind food and its gravity (and debatable still if satisfactory means “adequate,” subject to prior inadequacies) when it chooses not to do so in any prior chapters of this reflection feels, again, to be like a self-jerk of posturing. waters speaks of beauty as care, but for me in the vein of christina sharpe and bell hooks, care is deeply political and must be foremost practiced and named as such.