Book Review – Colombo, by Carl Muller
I picked up Colombo in a bookshop in Colombo, and was drawn to it, more than anything, by that small coincidence.
Despite his Western-sounding name, Carl Muller is Sri Lankan, of Burgher origin. He was born in Kandy, in the hill country, and seems to have been a bit of a reprobate in his youth, with multiple expulsions on his academic record. He also served in the Sri Lankan (then Ceylon) Armed Forces, and this broad exposure to a range of social experiences in Sri Lanka is what made me think his book would be an informative insight into a city that is a home to me.
And in many ways it is. Muller’s Colombo is a part-fictionalised account of the city’s history, and weaves in fictional narratives with real, historical facts, as well as references to historical academic works and figures. In that sense it is, on occasion, a useful source of interesting titbits; for example, I learned that the Sinhala word for lavatory, kakkussiya, comes from the Dutch word kak-huis.
Speaking of the Dutch, I also learned that the Dutch wrested control of Sri Lanka from the Portuguese at the behest of a Sinhala King, Raja Sinha II, who offered them control of the valuable spice trade in exchange for control of Portuguese-held forts and cities being returned to the Sri Lankans. The Dutch, however, reneged on their deal, and simply held on to the strongholds that they conquered, much to the rage of Raha Sinha II. There is a lot of useful history that Muller has extracted from various other sources, and he often dramatises historical battles which makes them slightly more engaging.
You also learn of the provenance of many of the city’s most famous and longstanding buildings, such as the Galadari Hotel, and Cargills supermarket; the former was established by two millionaire brothers from the UAE, and the latter was a British import, both of which still stand today. He also talks of other familiarities, such as Sri Lankan pronunciation of certain syllables:
“Khakied policemen… point their rifles and shout ‘Holt’! to every approaching car, bus, lorry or van.
Yes, ‘Holt’! because the language of Sinhala has no ‘or’ sound and no letter to produce such a sound.”
However, beyond the book’s usefulness in terms of facts that are easily regurgitated at a dinner party, it is fairly dire.
On a more technical note, the language is overwrought, superfluous, and can make you feel like you’re swimming through treacle. For example, the first paragraph of the book reads as follows:
“The light stays in the sky for a long while. An electric patch of blue-yellow like a melt-down of the colours of Armenia. The sun had reddened, bloated, flattened along the line of the water like a flaming full-bodied ankh, and a tattered shaft of vermilion had danced over the long, restless sea. Then the blood-cowled ball of day had plunged below the rim of a morose sweepcircle of red-daubed black.”
As you can see, it’s a bit much. All this just to describe sunset. And this is one example of many of fatigue-inducing passages that are littered about the book. Muller overdoes his use of adjectives, and often goes so far out of his way to portray images in an unexpected way that he ends up with adjectives so far removed that you’ve forgotten what you were reading about in the first place.
Linguistic shortcomings aside, the real issue with the book is its horrible (fictional) subject matter. Colombo as a city is portrayed as a den of vice, depravity and misery; none of the characters whose lives we briefly look into seem to either live happily or do good to those around them, and this is almost without exception. The one instance I found that bucked this trend was the story of the Sinhalese doctor who gave his own blood to a Tamil patient, despite the misgivings of his staff. Otherwise, the book is bursting at the seams with stories of horror and sadness. Of course, some of these stories are very close to the truth – that of the death squads like the Black Cats that operated during the time of the JVP, for example. But when I asked my parents and grandparents if their memory of Colombo was similar to the city Muller describes in such grotesque detail, they unanimously said that they never remembered it being that bad. I of course recognise that a certain level of social privilege might shape their experiences, but there is no way that they would have been totally disconnected from the rest of society, as one would have to be to not remember Colombo in the way Muller has rendered it.
There are stories of powerful businessmen who systematically abuse young schoolboys; parents living in slums who willingly sell their children to foreigners visiting as sexual tourists; prostitution galore, between women, men, children; stories of incest and domestic slavery; the list goes on. I actually didn’t finish the book because I couldn’t bring myself to read one more graphic story about torture, murder, child molestation, or rape. It’s not worth ploughing through all that horror for a few historical facts here and there, and this compounded with the superfluity of the language Muller uses mean that I would definitely not recommend this book to anyone.