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Thamel
For long a sleepy rural enclave, Thamel is today the beating commercial and cultural heart of Kathmandu—a dizzying square kilometre of hotels, bars, cafés, bookshops and temples to which visitors and residents gravitate, drawn by its dazzle and its possibilities.
In this unusual biography of the place, Rabi Thapa revisits the haunts of his youth. Tramping around its temples and monasteries, he unravels its layered history as well as the tales of the kings, monks and travelling merchants who laid its foundations. From residents—both Nepali and those who visited and never left—he pieces together the story of Kathmandu of the ‘flower-power’ sixties, the legendary Freak Street, and the rise of modern Thamel. On its streets he encounters glue-sniffing children, local toughs battling for turf, transvestite prostitutes turning tricks, and entrepreneurs looking to make it big. What emerges is a finely detailed portrait of a place that is not only a vibrant, ever-evolving reflection of the social mores of Kathmandu, but also an enduring staging post for Western fantasies of the East.
Written in the best traditions of flânerie, Thamel combines history, memoir and sharp reportage to tell the electric story of a place forever in flux, forever reinventing itself to suit the appetites and desires of those who seek it out.
In this unusual biography of the place, Rabi Thapa revisits the haunts of his youth. Tramping around its temples and monasteries, he unravels its layered history as well as the tales of the kings, monks and travelling merchants who laid its foundations. From residents—both Nepali and those who visited and never left—he pieces together the story of Kathmandu of the ‘flower-power’ sixties, the legendary Freak Street, and the rise of modern Thamel. On its streets he encounters glue-sniffing children, local toughs battling for turf, transvestite prostitutes turning tricks, and entrepreneurs looking to make it big. What emerges is a finely detailed portrait of a place that is not only a vibrant, ever-evolving reflection of the social mores of Kathmandu, but also an enduring staging post for Western fantasies of the East.
Written in the best traditions of flânerie, Thamel combines history, memoir and sharp reportage to tell the electric story of a place forever in flux, forever reinventing itself to suit the appetites and desires of those who seek it out.
- GenresTravelNonfiction
184 pages, Hardcover
Published December 8, 2016
6 people are currently reading
128 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 15 of 15 reviews
November 2, 2018
Nekako, uvek mi se činilo da je putopise, pa makar i sa istorijskim osvrtima kao što Tamel u sebi nosi, najbolje čitati za vreme ili neposredno pre samog putovanja. Kada možeš da dodirneš to što čitaš, kada možeš da se vrneš na kafu u baš taj kafić i posediš sa tetkom ispred baš tog hrama. Ovako, malo vuče na neku mučnu nostalgiju. Ali nije da je loše napisano.
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September 16, 2023
What makes Thamel THAMEL is the scent of lovers passing by its alleys; the howling youths on nights they forget where they live; the protagonists of unruly stories passing in whispers; the adrenaline rushing through the living, the dead and the undead in Thamel. Ravi Thapa’s reporting tries to amass everyone who is breathing, who have breathed and who plan on breathing within the periphery of the oasis of Kathmandu. Yet somehow misses the one who with such fondness embarked to narrate its story.
October 9, 2020
Was reading Pico Iyer's Video Night in Kathmandu when I realised I wanted to spend some more reading time in Nepal. So I picked up Rabi Thapa's book which I had bought when prepping for a trip years ago. That trip didn't happen, and the book had remained unread. Until now.
It's a slow, thoughtful read, which is surprising because it's a short book. There is history here, and street life. And in weaving all this around interviews, Thapa manages a remarkable feat of narrative structure.
Thamel is an intriguing character, but this space is not the only one in the book. There are so many others, and in telling their stories through Thamel's lens, Thapa has produced a little piece of literature that is worth returning to. And I will.
It's a slow, thoughtful read, which is surprising because it's a short book. There is history here, and street life. And in weaving all this around interviews, Thapa manages a remarkable feat of narrative structure.
Thamel is an intriguing character, but this space is not the only one in the book. There are so many others, and in telling their stories through Thamel's lens, Thapa has produced a little piece of literature that is worth returning to. And I will.
August 20, 2023
This is one of the six books 'neighbourhood books' published by Speaking Tiger publications and the only one set on a location which is outside India.The text is inconsistent to be precise.Sometimes,it is a slogfest while other times you just can't stop turning the pages.The language used is mostly lucid.However,if you have little knowledge about Nepal in general or Kathmandu in particular,this book will take a lifetime to finish.It is good book but not special.
July 31, 2021
"When does a neighborhood become a hood? When there are no neighbors, and only hustlers and hustlees make it their playground."
Rabi has beautifully portrayed the history and coming of age of Thamel while recounting his own connection to the city.
I loved the style and the flow throughout the book.
Recommended if you are interested in knowing a part of this city which actually connects a lot of dots and tries to portray a finesse picture of this cultural hub dub.
Rabi has beautifully portrayed the history and coming of age of Thamel while recounting his own connection to the city.
I loved the style and the flow throughout the book.
Recommended if you are interested in knowing a part of this city which actually connects a lot of dots and tries to portray a finesse picture of this cultural hub dub.
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May 1, 2024Nei, sorry, men denne var tvers gjennom kaotisk og kavete. (Spennende partier fantes da, men de veide liksom ikke opp i det store bildet.)
June 28, 2020
Having visited Thamel only for a day, I was curious to read this book And what it gas to offer. Author has done a good job of presenting before readers the various stories of Thamel. From hippie place to being a trekkers shopping and much more, Thamel comes alive in writings of Rabi Thapa
March 16, 2017
A mix of personal narrative and neighborhood history. This is better enjoyed if you have a little bit of knowledge about Kathmandu and Nepali history. For someone fresh to the subject some events are glanced over and would make less sense in context. That said, there are a few short stories here that are really great, Rabi Thapa is predominantly a fiction writer after all.
Mr. Thapa does bounce around a little bit on the history and location, even talking about places outside of Thamel, though admittedly somehow tangentially related, for close to entire chapters, so really it feels a little bit like a history of how westerners and their values have impacted life in Kathmandu/Nepal.
If you buy it in Kathmandu itself you are likely to find it for only $6 US, this is definitely worth the cost and it will provide you with a better understanding of the city, its citizens and its relationship to the outsiders that visit.
Mr. Thapa does bounce around a little bit on the history and location, even talking about places outside of Thamel, though admittedly somehow tangentially related, for close to entire chapters, so really it feels a little bit like a history of how westerners and their values have impacted life in Kathmandu/Nepal.
If you buy it in Kathmandu itself you are likely to find it for only $6 US, this is definitely worth the cost and it will provide you with a better understanding of the city, its citizens and its relationship to the outsiders that visit.
November 2, 2019
Great fun book! Gives the history of Thamel of how it grew from padi fields and Buddhist pilgrimage site to a tourist and local hub.
It shares how the place started to change from 1970s due to national policy to encourage adventure tourism and also to replace Freak Street where hippies with no money provided no economic benefits for Nepal. Not to mention, pressure from USA to curtail the hippie generation.
The book is written in experiential, short stories format which enables the book to be less dry and more fun to read.
It shares how the place started to change from 1970s due to national policy to encourage adventure tourism and also to replace Freak Street where hippies with no money provided no economic benefits for Nepal. Not to mention, pressure from USA to curtail the hippie generation.
The book is written in experiential, short stories format which enables the book to be less dry and more fun to read.
July 1, 2017
A concise reading on history and culture of Kathmandu's shopping district, Thamel. I would really recommend pairing this book Thomas Bell's Kathmandu (2014).
August 5, 2017
A beautifully written account of this interjunction of cultures, time and mind-spaces, ideas and commerce that is Thamel. A pleasure to read.
November 18, 2018
This is a gem of a book: erudite, readable with some wonderful insights and moving personal stories of folks from Thamel, as well as Thapa's own experiences. I loved the beginnings in history and mythology and then the descriptions of the Thamel that has evolved through drug culture to centre for adventure tourism, while maintaining a good grasp on its own unique Nepali culture. I also appreciated being introduced to Bikramshila Mahabihir.
This book is a lovely insight into a very interesting and complex corner of Kathmandu. And it is clear evidence that Thapa is a polymath, as well as a very able writer.
His collection of short stories "Nothing to Declare" is also worth reading.
This book is a lovely insight into a very interesting and complex corner of Kathmandu. And it is clear evidence that Thapa is a polymath, as well as a very able writer.
His collection of short stories "Nothing to Declare" is also worth reading.
November 10, 2020
Quite interesting. After visiting Thamel and Kathmandu you can understand how these events can happen and why the city is as it is. Am I Ease or am I West modern or wanting to be. Has the city changed the visitors, or other way around. Everyone changed everyone.Impressed, enhanced, exchanged. This shows how wanting to be like the people who admire you, changes us all
February 4, 2017
I lived in Nepal for three years and thought I knew Thamel, but learned so much from this fascinating and beautifully written book.
April 25, 2018
I was quite curious about this book as I'm visiting Nepal and Kathmandu regularly since 2003. Book on Thamel, the dark side of Kathmandu seemed as a very good idea. Unfortunately the book failed to fulfil the expectation. If you already know something about Nepal and history of it's tourism, you will net get to know much more and if you don't know, this book will not make you understand it. It's still must read for any Nepal enthusiast but not a really that interesting as it promises to be.
Displaying 1 - 15 of 15 reviews