I received this book as a digital advance reader copy from NetGalley in exchange for an honest review.
The cookbook begins with sixteen pages of “What is Pho?” which discusses the history of pho in three roughly historical epochs: original pho, protest and political pho, culinary and cultural pho. The underlying themes of the section are that pho is a uniquely Vietnamese dish, and that the term “pho” refers to both the soup and the rice noodles themselves. The section concludes with a short good humored story about the author’s day trip in 2015 to the villages of Nam Dinh and Van Cu, which were purported to be the birthplace of pho.
The remainder of the book is divided into six sections: the Pho Manual, Master Pho, Adventurous Pho, Pho Add-ons, Stir-fried, Panfried, and Deep-fried Pho, and Pho Sidekicks. The Pho Manual contains the information that is necessary to prepare the recipes in the five sections that follow. It begins with an excellent photograph that compares the different types of dried rice noodles and fresh rice noodles that are available. The most often ingredients are discussed in their order of importance, beginning with water and followed by noodles and then spices. The author offers a curious tip that I had never paid attention to: broth should be brewed with water that you enjoy drinking and prep tasks can be done with regular tap water. The photograph illustrating the different spices required for pho was also extremely useful, especially since I had thought that cassia bark and cinnamon sticks were essentially the same thing. The tips, tricks and techniques offered in this section range from broth basics – such as maintaining a gentle simmer and defatting broth – to unusual broth techniques such as charring aromatics and parboiling bones. The sidebar “How to Enjoy Pho Soup and Avoid Pho Faux Pas” was definitely enlightening. I’m not one to season any food without tasting it first so there is at least one faux pas that I’m not guilty of. Finally the section concludes with a photograph of different types of animal bones immediately prior to a discussion of beef pho tips.
Master Pho contains the foundational recipes, while Adventurous Pho seeks to inspire creativity. Foundational recipes range from 40 minute “simple and satisfying” recipes to four hour “old school stunners,” which may require special ingredients from an Asian market. While the ingredients list for the “simple and satisfying” recipes features store bought low sodium broth, the ingredients list for at least two of the “old school stunners” is pretty astounding: six pounds of bones plus up to two pounds of meat! Not to mention some of the unusual specialty ingredients required. Rotisserie Chicken Pho, Seafood Pho and Lamb Pho are among the creative experimental recipes in the Adventurous Pho section. These recipes build on the broths from the Master Pho section. Recipes for variations on the Vietnamese noodle soup stop about halfway through this section, and the remainder of the cookbook is recipes using the rice noodles or broth in other ways or recipes complementing the Vietnamese noodle soup. For example, the Pho Add-ons are recipes that can “personalize” pho, such as thinly sliced steak, beef meatballs, homemade hoisin sauce, and garlic vinegar. As simple as the recipe for the Garnish Plate is, the accompanying photograph that labeled all the different herbs and chiles is extremely valuable for identifying some of the more unusual recommendations, such as culantro (not cilantro), rice paddy herb, and Thai chile. Stir-fried, Panfried and Deep-fried Pho feature the wide pho noodles in dishes without broth. Finally, Pho Sidekicks are the additional recipes that make pho into a meal. These recipes range from rice noodle filled pot stickers and rolls to alcoholic and nonalcoholic drinks.
Throughout the book are helpful hints and charts about preparing pho. One of my favorites was the “DIY Pho Routes: Pressure Cooker Versus Stockpot.” This page was half comparative essay and half side-by-side comparison chart. While the essay portion of the page was interesting, the chart made the benefits and drawbacks of each method of pho making leap out. Another favorite, although almost completely unrelated to pho, was the “Vietnamese Coffee Primer.” This one-page essay discussed the distinguishing elements of Vietnamese coffee, including the phin filter, the coffee itself, and the sweetened condensed milk. I never knew that one of my favorite coffee brands (Café du Monde) was also a favorite of the Vietnamese.
The variety of different techniques explained throughout the recipes in the cookbook is impressive. Several recipes explain the operation of a pressure cooker, which I found quite fascinating because I have yet to use the pressure cooker that I acquired from my father. Other techniques that were explained in depth included parboiling bones to remove impurities, stir-frying, and deep-frying. The recipe steps seemed to be very clearly written and to be consistently repeated in each recipe (rather than stated once and cross referenced.)
The photography was a mix of on location photography from Vietnam and stylized photography of finished food. The location photography dominated during the initial chapters of the book, while the food photography dominated the recipe chapters of the book. All of the photography was gorgeous. The food photography gave a good idea of what the finished dish should look like, and sometimes what the accompanying garnishes should be.
Although this cookbook was well-written, well-researched, and well-photographed, I am reluctant to add it to my collection because it is covers such a small niche and I tend to acquire cookbooks which cover more general topics. However, I would highly recommend it for anyone who is interested in learning more about Vietnamese cuisine in general, in addition to those who are specifically interested in learning more about pho.
I have yet to prepare any of the recipes from this cookbook. When I do, I will update this review.