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352 pages, Hardcover
First published January 23, 2018
"One of the uncomfortable, even painful, inadequacies of this movement, which became clear to me with each new chapter I researched, was how white it was....Over and over again, counterculture publications would ask: Why aren't we reaching nonwhite audiences? Many groups would make a cursory appeal and give up, or settle for one or two token members."

Can I just say "I had no idea"? I guess I have always been aware that the 60s and 70s had influenced the way we eat, especially when vegetarianism is concerned. This book goes way beyond the hippie movement and starts all the way back in the early 20th century with those finding the health benefits of raw food.
Hippie Food is not however about hippies exclusively. While all the health food movements during the last century seemed to be lead by colorful characters, the gamut of leaders run from Zen masters to surfers to Seventh-Day Adventists to homesteaders.
As is often the case with a Cook the Books selection, I learned a lot. I was reminded of another featured book way back in 2012, The United States of Arugula by David Kamp. In that book I learned what life might be like without olive oil and goat cheese.
From Hippie Food, I realized what our world would look like without brown rice, any soy products, Farmers Markets, and organic foods. On a frightening note, I was also given a glimpse into a world with white Wonder bread only. (Shudder!)
Thank you, Seventh-Day Adventists for not letting whole-grain bread die and for converting many white flour recipes to graham flour in your cookbooks. Where would we be if we only had white bread or the "staff of death" to fuel us (109). (Bernarr Macfadden coined this phrase back in the 1910s according to Kauffman.) The chapter entitled "Brown Bread and the Pursuit of Wholesomeness" was fascinating. I really want to make Adelle Davis' Whole Wheat Bread or "Spirit of Love" bread (118). Alas, whole wheat flour is hard to come by now so I had to pass on that idea.
Sometimes, I think I was born too late. I can so see myself running off to join a commune or organic farming cooperative in the 70s for the sense of commuity and culture and passionate belief. Kaufmann quotes Robert Houriet, a commune chronicler and traveler:
The self needs a community; a community needs a culture; and a culture---here's the rub---needs spirit. Without it, a society falls flat like bread without yeast.
Somewhere the spirit lives; through the woods, over the hills there lies some unknown pond in the lap of mountains reflecting the infinite sky. (188)
I've always been a Thoreau fan and this passage leave me wanting to explore Walden Pond.
I was really surprised to find that some of the hotbeds of many of these movements were located relatively close to our area like Fayetteville and Springfield. Definitely a college-town thing.
This should have been a no brainer, but I did not realize that farmers markets were reborn from the organic farming movements in Vermont. And, I would never have guessed that the soy milk in my fridge can trace its roots back to hippies in Tennessee.
Kauffman also chronicles restaurants and the parts they played in moving along health food and vegetarianism like California's The Aware Inn and the Health Hut plus The New Riverside Cafe in Minneapolis. He also details the food cooperative rise and of course the birth of Whole Foods in Austin.
In his conclusion, Kauffman does bring it all together. Hippie food is healthy and it's what we all should be eating. Even the USDA now concurs. "Hippie food had become the gold standard for nutrition" (284).
The foods that the hippies, back-to-landers, longhairs and revolutionaries promoted and championed are now mainstream. These once foreign and strange ingredients are now in our pantries. "They slip into the meals we throw together after a long workday" (287).
"When brown rice reminds us all of our childhoods, then the hippie food revolution will finally be won" (287). I think that time has arrived.