I revere the Colorado River as a god, and the Colorado Plateau and its accompanying geologic wonders as its temples, so this was the opposite of the kind of book I would love, but still interesting if you care about water in the West, and I do. I knew, moving here, that I was stressing out an arid, sere environment that is wholly dependent on snow pack and abundant precipitation, but it is home now. My nomad heart found its home, and I hope I can give back to my now home. I do miss the lush green of my New England and sometimes dreams of a greener place, but I also crave the sunshine and open skies and mountains and city and location. I love the lyrics to I’m not from here by James McMurtry:
We can't help it
We just keep moving
It's been that way since long ago
Since the Stone Age, chasing the great herds
We mostly go where we have to go
Onto some bright future somewhere
Down the road to points unknown
But this is me:
Eighty percent of Colorado’s precipitation falls on the western half of the state, yet eighty- five percent of the population lives to the east, in the mountains’ “rain shadow.” If transporting water from one side to the other were impossible, most of the people who live and farm on the eastern side of the mountains would have to move.
The author spends a lot of time in small planes tracing the course of the river, and it is a mere trickle compared to the Mississippi and other gargantuan rivers, but still mighty. A great description of its small size: “if you were to spread a full year’s worth of its entire flow evenly over a surface the size of its drainage basin, roughly 250,000 square miles, the water would cover it to a depth of only about an inch.” There are a lot of amazing facts that show the depth and breadth of what this river means to the West, including being the source of water to more than 36 million people (Denver, Colorado Springs, Boulder, Salt Lake, Albuquerque, Vegas, and Phoenix.
There was a lot of explication of water laws, and the industry and use of the River, and little “life and death” the title promises, and I sense the author, while mentioning outdoor activities, is not an avid nature lover since nature is barely mentioned but there are long riffs on mines and plants and RV’s. I have always had a sense of regret at how controlled it is now, that the Grand Canyon’s already minute progress deep and deeper towards the center of the earth is now slowed to an infinitesimally slow rate by human control, but I know I benefit from it, so am pragmatic about it.
“The Colorado has helped to shape some of the most otherworldly landforms on earth— the Grand Canyon, of course, and also the Vermilion Cliffs, in northern Arizona, and the eerily striated buttes and mazelike sandstone meanders of Canyonlands National Park, in southeastern Utah— yet even within those seemingly wild landscapes its flow is so altered and controlled that in many ways the river functions more like a fourteen- hundred- mile- long canal. The legal right to use every gallon is owned or claimed by someone— in fact, more than every gallon, since theoretical rights to the Colorado’s flow, known to water lawyers as “paper water,” greatly exceed its actual flow, known as “wet water.”
Our snowpack is dismally low this year, and now I can understand some of the jargon some articles throw around about water rights, senior and junior, priority dates, and what it means to farmland and irrigation. The Shoshone hydroelectric plant near Glenwood Springs “has a priority date of 1902, making it the oldest large water right on the river. It’s entitled to take its entire allotment before any junior holder, including metropolitan Denver, gets any, and for that reason it has been called “the most powerful water right on the Colorado River.” It is not a consumptive plant, it actually releases all the water back to the river, which makes it interesting.
There is a thread of connection that the author reiterates throughout, and I have lived in LA and Phoenix and now Denver not even realizing the connections. It has been my immersion into the landscape, into the raw, bare places that makes me cherish water, and I think it is important to know how connected we are, and how global warming could make any of these places inhabitable. He wrote at the beginning, the one thing that is a truth, not a theory is that water is necessary for life, and it can run out in moment’s time, whatever the politicians say about golabal warming. “We may be citizens of a community, and a state, and a country, but we are also citizens of a basin…What happens in Denver matters in L.A. What happens in Phoenix matters in Salt Lake. It’s a web, and if you cut one strand the whole thing begins to unravel. If you think there can be a winner in something like that, you are nuts. Either we all win, or we all lose. And we certainly don’t have time to go to court.”
Eons ago, this are of the Colorado Plateau and watershed was under shallow seas as the continents were in different places on the globe, where magnetic north changed, where time was eternal. When I read this, part of my heart breaks since it almost seems to describe such a deep time change, but was just 50 years ago: “In his book The Great Divide, which was published in 2015, Stephen Grace writes, “The Colorado River Delta, once one of the planet’s great wetland ecosystems, formed a maze of green lagoons that teemed with fish and was prowled by jaguars. Waterfowl filled the skies in such abundance that daylight dimmed as processions of wings passed before the sun.” This was still true not much more than half a century ago. Pitt said, “The first real drying occurred around 1966.:
So. What to do. There are things the author states that I don’t agree with, such as how the environment is destroyed more by people who love wild places and overuse them than by people who don’t visit them: that is a simplistic version of it. Yes, some recreation like ATV’s do destroy nature, but those people can’t be said to love wild places, they love their selfish recreation. And the decisions made by politicians to protect or exploit areas have a much more powerful effect on air quality, etc. This perspective is new to me, and very interesting, although it is more economics-focused than scientific, AC has harmful effects also: “...from a broader environmental point of view desert regions are by no means terrible places for people to live. Cooling rooms from 110 degrees to 75 degrees requires less energy than heating them from minus 25 to 68; solar exposure in deserts is often high year-round, making all forms of solar-energy harvesting more attractive; the daily solar peak in deserts roughly coincides with the daily peak in human energy demand in those same areas, something that often isn’t the case in other environments; and deserts impose absolute limits on some kinds of development-related environmental damage, assuming that residents can be prevented from growing too much grass on sand. With good land-use management, water scarcity can even be a useful tool for containing the heedless sprawl of human habitation.”
About moving the people around, not a great idea: “If New York City could somehow be dismantled and its residents dispersed across the state at the density of Pierson’s current hometown, what remains today of pastoral New York State would vanish under a tide of asphalt. Similarly, if you demolished all of Colorado’s dams, aqueducts, and water tunnels, and spread the 4.5 million current residents of the East Slope across the state thinly enough to accommodate everyone’s water needs with local streams and groundwater, you’d have an environmentally disastrous mess: the suburbs of Houston or Atlanta smeared across the Rocky Mountains. It’s big, thirsty, densely populated cities that make sparsely inhabited wild places possible—a package deal.”
To end, I really appreciate the humor of this, but its cynicism can’t mar one of my most holy experiences of hiking and bathing in the water of a small spring fed tributary in Utah near Moab, knowing this water joins the Colorado and flows down through the temples and holy places that are more alive than the masses can appreciate.
Some of its southern reaches attract so many transient residents during the winter that you could almost believe it had overflowed its banks and left dense alluvial deposits of motorboats, Jet Skis, dirt bikes, golf carts, all- terrain vehicles, RVs, mobile homes, fifth wheels, and people with gray hair.