I read this when it first came out, and it changed my life. I thought it was great and I learned a lot. After re-reading it almost 17 years later, my feelings have changed. I still believe that it is a good book to give to beginners. Now with youtube, I wonder if even pre-teens still need a book like this though. You can find far more informative step by step tutorials online. Nor are the looks as avant-garde or inspirational on second viewing. But it was the first time I saw the power of makeup and Aucoin will always have a special place in my heart. I do have some criticism upon a second reading, however. To be fair, I think if Aucoin were alive there would have been new editions that would have updated these issues.
1. I'm just going to say it and leave it at that, the name dropping.... all the name dropping! You know famous people...we get it
2. There is a lot of benevolent racism, as well as a healthy dash of White Saviour Syndrom laced throughout the prose. He is asking for a lot of praise for being so brave for not segregate models by race and treating people like human beings, but he has no problem with brown face and cultural appropriation.
3. The benevolent misogynism is divided into A. women as icons/objects and B. grateful normies. It seems all "normal" women are all nervous about being the center of attention and burst into tears at the self-love they could not find until he blessed them by showing them how to beat a mug.
4. My BIGGEST issue, however, is that he is not listing every step he is doing on the editorial and celebrity looks, so if you follow the steps you can't actually reproduce the look, and you only see the missing bits when you become more experienced at makeup. The couple of real women looks in the front of the book have step by step photos showing baking, contouring, highlighting and so forth with pictures of the application process. With the celebrity and editorial, they are not shown without makeup, there is no step by step photos, and he is saying most of these looks are no foundation, no contouring, no highlighting, looks. BULLSHIT. If that was the case why do I need 80 looks telling me to put on a little lip gloss and mascara and call it a day? You can see the shimmer on the cupid's bow; you can see the contour on Tina's cheekbones and the contoured jawline on the drag Linda Evangelista look, just to name a few. So if you are not going to show all the steps, or list all the products you are using then what's the point; to look at a perfect face become another perfect face which you can never reproduce because you aren't really learning technique here?
5. This may be petty but these brows. I know mine were thin too at the time, but good grief these brows.
Do I get it was written almost two decades ago and is incredibly progressive for the time; yes. Did I spot these things on first reading at 19 years old; absolutely not. Do I still wish the publisher would update the text; for the love of god, please!