Snacks: A Canadian Food History

by Janis Thiessen

Snacks is a history of Canadian snack foods, of the independent producers and workers who make them, and of the consumers who can't put them down. Janis Thiessen profiles several iconic Canadian snack food companies, including Old Dutch Potato Chips, Hawkins Cheezies, and chocolate maker Ganong. These companies have developed in distinctive ways, reflecting the unique stories of their founders and their intense connection to specific locations. These stories of salty or sweet confections also reveal a history that is at odds with popular notions of "junk food." Through extensive oral history and archival research, Thiessen uncovers the roots of our deep loyalties to different snack foods, what it means to be an independent snack food producer, and the often-quirky ways snacks have been created and marketed. Clearly written, extensively illustrated, and lavish with detail about some of Canadians' favorite snacks, this is a lively and entertaining look at food and labour history.

Genres: Nonfiction, Food, History, Canada

344 pages, Paperback

Published September 8, 2017

Reviews

[MargaretDH · Rating 4 out of 5]

First off - I love Hawkin's Cheezies. I detest uniformly shaped puffy corn and cheese treats, and am only interested in the intense crunch and irregular shape of Cheezies. I've been eating them since I was a child because my Dad loves them too. And this book has a whole chapter about them! I've also been eating Old Dutch chips from boxes for as long, and there's a chapter on that company as well!

This is a fascinating (for me) look at the development of Canadian snack food companies and their labour practices. Thiessen looks at how the businesses were founded and grew, their corporate identities, how they source Canadian ingredients, and their labour practices. There are lots of interviews with management and labour here, and a really interesting look into how Canadians get their Canadian snacks.

And I learned so much! Hawkin's still uses original equipment and they don't advertise because they have one factory and they're not interested in growth. The company originated in Chicago and was once so large that Lay's approached them seeking a buyout. Old Dutch still sells chips in boxes for nostalgia reasons, even though they're less profitable than the bags. They were also driven out of most stores in southern Ontario by aggressive practices by Frito Lay.

Anyway, this is a deeply niche book. I might have wished that Thiessen looked more at the social history of snacking. She does touch on it here and there, but I would have liked a deeper exploration of the way Canadian's understand these foods and their place in life. I probably can't recommend this to too many people, but if the premise sounds at all interesting, I'd definitely encourage you to pick it up!

[Kayleigh · Rating 3 out of 5]

Name: A Canadian Food History of Snacks
Author: Janice Thiessen

Time to read: 1 Month
Book status: Library Loan

In one sentence:
An overview of the snack industry in Canada as told through 7 chapters/ categories.

How many ✮’s and why?
(✮✮✮)
I struggled between 2 and 3 stars, the book was good but just not what I was hoping it would be. Reads much more like an academic text book than how the back described it to be a "lively and entertaining" read. 

Favourite “Quotes”
Nothing stood out to me.

Idiosyncrasies/ Something Interesting
Little bit of a "hometown" connection with the cheezies chapter, I now live close to and work in Belleville!

BBF Recommendation and Why?
I probably wouldn't go out of my way but if I happened to be talking to someone about snacks, I may bring it up. 

Other books to consider
Nothing that I have read. 

[Lauren · Rating 4 out of 5]

Following several snack food companies and their workforce, Thiessen has crafted a food history of Canadian institutions. Through extensive oral history interviews, media, and other primary and secondary sources, Thiessen asserts that one’s individual relationship with snack food goes deeper than health trends and the decision to to be a snacker is one that should be free of moral judgement.

[Tracy Gaudet · Rating 2 out of 5]

This book should be called ‘All About Old Dutch’. While interesting, it really didn’t cover much of the history of snacks in Canada, but more about chip and chocolate manufacturing and one kids game show. I’d still have read but set different expectations.

[Dasha · Rating 4 out of 5]

Not only in this an important contribution to understanding Canadian labour history it is also an innovative addition to Canadian food history in that it not only takes food history seriosuly (something that few other historians do) but it also uses interviews with labourers to further her analysis of the topic. Chapter 7, I believe is the most interesting, as it provides a history of children's participation in snack consumer culture.

[Patrick Book · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is drier than I expected and very much comes from an academic viewpoint, but I find it fascinating nonetheless. It’s a microcosm of Canadian life, but it is an interesting window into the lives, habits, and work life of a large swath of people. And the chapter on the Old Dutch tv show is absolutely fascinating.

I have eaten a lot of Old Dutch chips since I started this, and I will eat a lot more in the future.

[Theresa Jehlik · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book is more an extended academic paper than a popular social history. Thiessen explores the history of Old Dutch potato chips, Cheezies, and more from a business perspective. Her added spin is the inclusion of labor, primarily female, which made these businesses operate and survive (or not). The chapter on the Kids Bids tv show sponsored by Old Dutch potato chips was fascinating. Black and white photos add interest to this book.

[Ryan · Rating 3 out of 5]

A fairly interesting social history of some of the giants of the Canadian snack food industry (Old Dutch, Hawkins, Ganong, and the like). A little on the dry/academic side, but interesting to see the impact of those companies on the communities that they inhabited, and the relationship that people develop between food and childhood memories.

[Josh Brent · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was an assigned reading and to be honest it was quite well written.

The subject matter is very interesting as it explores the various aspects of snack or "junk" food in the Canadian culture. It also explores aspects about international influences and how they have changed our tastes over the years.

Highly recommend to anyone interested in Canadian industries and influences.

[Emily · Rating 5 out of 5]

A delightful history of snacks in Canada that merges food and labor history, considering the lives and perspectives of the workers and small independent companies themselves that produce some of Canadians favorite chips, chocolates, and candy.

[Robin · Rating 4 out of 5]

Here's the thing: this isn't at all what I expected. It's heavily academic. I expected more of a non-fiction narrative but this read more like a text book. By no means is this the fault of the author it's just what I assumed and expected.

[Evan · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read the chapter on Hawkins cheezies, plus bits and pieces from the rest of the book. I might have finished it, but I had a library copy that had to be returned. An interesting look at the history of various Canadian snack food companies.

[Laura · Rating 3 out of 5]

I found this much more academic then I expected. I skipped around a lot.

[Chris · Rating 4 out of 5]

An interesting look at some of Canada's most iconic snack foods and the companies behind them. Some of them are before my time, but some of them I still remember. And I'm all about Hawkins Cheezies.

[Patricia · Rating 2 out of 5]

Interesting premise, exploring labour history, food, and culture, but hampered by academic style. Missed an opportunity to appeal to a broader audience.

[Holly]

Intriguing read if you grew up with these Canadian classics like Old Dutch & Cheezies

[Andrew · Rating 2 out of 5]

Too many of the same snack really isn't a good thing. Not a variety-pack of Canadian snacks.

[Paul Martin · Rating 3 out of 5]

Good read until the last 2 chapters.

[Ian · Rating 2 out of 5]

Janis Thiessen’s latest book gives readers a taste of the history of the production of snack foods in Canada. The format of the book resembles the subject. Different chapters provide a small treat: a description of a Canadian snack company peppered with snippets of interviews with former employees as well as a brief description of a current issue or debate in food studies or labour issues. While the descriptions of the food production or sourcing and historical events are often detailed, the snack-sized discussions of the political and social issues surrounding snacks left me salivating: my appetite whetted and wanting more. These political and social issues are numerous: references to gender inequality in production (often female-dominated) and management (male-dominated), contestation about unionization, debates over healthy eating, sugar content, and the ethics of the cocoa trade, to name a few. Many of these issues could certainly have been a book on their own, but Thiessen instead provides the reader a tasty assortment of issues related to the snack industry in Canada and the individuals who worked in it.