Da Bull: Live Over the Edge

by Gregg Noll, Andrea Gabbard

Pioneer big-wave surfer, Greg Noll, was called Da Bull by his fellow surfers for his stubborn, straightforward and aggressive approach to the sport. His approach to life in general wasn’t much different. His life revolved around surfing and everything the sport engendered. He made surfboards and surf films. He pioneered modern surfing in Australia. He discovered Mazatlan as a surf spot. He as the first to ride the fear-some waves at Waimea Bay and Outside Pipeline on Oahu’s North Shore. He brawled and caroused with men, charmed and entertained women.Above all, he was Da Bull, one of the bravest and best of the big wave riders of his or anyone’s era. Part of Greg Noll’s motivation for riding big surf came from the camaraderie he enjoyed with his elite and rowdy peers. The other part came from "I just wanted to ride a bigger wave than anybody. I wanted to do something none of the other guys could or would do." One day in December 1969, he did just that when a storm from the Aleutians drove monstrous swells onto the shores of Oahu and created a day like no other at Makaha Point. There, Greg Noll met the wave that had beckoned but eluded him for twenty years. Hawaii State Senator and former World Surfing Champion, Fred Hemmings, was out in the water at Makaha that same day. Afterward, he described Greg Noll’s experience as "a death-wish wave. If it had been anyone else in that situation, he would have died."

Genres: Nonfiction

195 pages, Paperback

First published February 1, 1989

Reviews

[Willywa · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great surf history book, not just for big wave riders. And cool to see how the surf industry developed in Manhattan Beach & Hermosa Beach (my hometowns)

[Noah · Rating 2 out of 5]

VERY light reading without much structure. Basically the book equivalent of sitting in Noll's living room and listening to him spin stories about the good old days in the surfing world (Southern California and Oahu in the 1950's and 1960's, specifically). If that sounds like your cup of tea, you'd probably like this.

[Laynie D. Weaver · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is story after story of Greg Noll's colorful addiction to big surf. Many admire him for being the pioneer of big wave surfing, but I admire him for living without regrets. It's good enough to read on the beach during a off-shore winds, head high surf day... alright, almost that good.

[Aidan · Rating 5 out of 5]

Greg Noll is the Man

[Brian · Rating 5 out of 5]

I love this book. It is about the pioneering of big wave surfing. If you love the sport like me, you must read this one.