Mod New York: Fashion Takes a Trip

by Phyllis Magidson, Donald Albrecht

An overview of the turbulent 1960s and 1970s through the lens of fashion, a period when demure silhouettes and pastels exploded into bold prints and tie-dyed psychedelic chaos and ultimately resolved into a personal style dubbed by Vogue the "New Nonchalance." Mod New York traces the fashion arc of the 1960s and 1970s, a tumultuous and innovative era that continues to inspire how we dress today. During this period, demure silhouettes and pastels favored by First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy exploded into bold prints and tie-dyed psychedelic chaos and ultimately resolved into a personal style dubbed by Vogue the “New Nonchalance.” Accompanying a major exhibition at the Museum of the City of New York, this book is beautifully illustrated by two hundred groundbreaking and historically significant designs by Halston, Geoffrey Beene, Rudi Gernreich, Yves Saint Laurent, Andre Courreges, Norman Norell, and Bill Blass, among many others, all drawn from the renowned costume collection at MCNY. By the mid-1960s, clothing assumed communicative powers, reflecting the momentous societal changes of the the emergence of a counterculture, the women’s liberation movement, the rise of African-American consciousness, and the radicalism arising from the protests of the Vietnam War. New York City, as the nation’s fashion and creative capital, became the critical flashpoint for these debates. Authoritative essays by well-known fashion historians Phyllis Magidson, Hazel Clark, Sarah Gordon, and Caroline Rennolds Milbank explore the ways in which these radical movements were expressed in fashion. Of special note is Kwame S. Brathwaite’s presentation of the Grandassa Models and “Black is Beautiful” movement, which is illustrated with photographs by his father, Kwame Brathwaite.

Genres: Fashion

160 pages, Hardcover

Published November 21, 2017

Reviews

[Joan · Rating 5 out of 5]

I read every word, and closely examined every photo in this exhibition publication from the Museum of the City of New York.

As a child and then teenager in the 60s and early 70s, I was very aware of the fashions of the times, and my first ambition was to become a clothing designer. While this did not come to be, I did become a fashion copywriter, and continue try to visit as many costume and fashion exhibitions as I can. I wasn't able to make it to this particular show, but this book provides a very in-depth look at the fashions of the Mod era, when New York took over from Paris as the center of fashion (with some challenges from London).

All the trends and highlights of the period are covered, with scholarly yet accessible commentary, and photography that will command your attention. If fashion is your thing, and especially if you remember the fashions of the 60s and 70s (or want to learn more about them), be sure to take a look at this book, which I was fortunate enough to find at my local library.

[Petty Lisbon · Rating 3 out of 5]

I liked this. The essays were concise but informative. I liked how it was a little intersectional and tied the fashion to Black liberation and women's movements. I appreciate how it would include a "context" (like "Before, people only bought clothes at department stores and boutiques weren't a thing"). The pictures were printed well. I wish there was an epilogue or why the scene ended chapter.

[Joe · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a fabulous exhibition catalogue/coffee table book that accompanied the Museum of the City of New York's 2017 exhibit "Mod New York: Fashion Takes a Trip." If you love '60s fashion then you will love this!

The book showcases the museum's extensive collection of mid-century modern fashion which spans from 1960 to 1973. Divided into 9 sections — ranging from "First Lady Fashion" and "Youthquake" to "New Bohemia" and "New Nonchalance" — each section opens with an essay detailing the radical societal and cultural changes that were eventually reflected in fashion and then it's followed with page after page of full color, full page photographs of fashion from the collection — often times combined with photos of the same outfits from fashion magazine editorials. Unlike a lot of fashion exhibition catalogues the clothing truly is the focal point, so it's full of delightful eye candy throughout.

I particularly enjoyed the "Fashion and Consciousness" section which touches on the overlap of '60s fashion with the burgeoning Black is Beautiful movement. Oftentimes, people and designers of color are left out of these fashion retrospectives so it was refreshing to see.

Highly recommended for '60s fashion nerds like myself.

[Cameron Toney · Rating 4 out of 5]

I will be the first to admit that the sixties is not my preferred fashion era. Mod has never spoken to me on a personal level, but this book has done a great job of pointing out just how rich, varied, and interesting it is!
I gather that this book was published as a companion to an exhibit, and it does a wonderful job of contextualizing the fashion in the eras they were creating, noting influences and showing impact of how these clothes affected the world.
Its still not my favorite era, but this volume really did help me see the beauty in it!