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Lobo do Mar
Numa emocionante e honesta biografia de Garrett McNamara, o polémico atleta e recordista mundial de ondas grandes relata a sua busca emocional enquanto surfista das ondas mais formidáveis do planeta. Conhecido carinhosamente como GMac, bateu o recorde mundial do desporto, surfando uma onda de 24 metros, na Nazaré, em 2011, e dois anos mais tarde bateria essa marca exatamente na mesma praia portuguesa. Este é livro pessoal e emocional, que permite aos leitores conhecer o GMac como nunca antes, sob um olhar simultaneamente íntimo e profissional, e que mostra quais as motivações deste homem criativo e iconoclasta.
Surfar ondas incríveis não é apenas um gosto pela emoção, explica Mcnamara - trata-se de vencer os medos e ultrapassar obstáculos do passado e do presente. Lobo do mar é um testemunho de perseverança, paixão e superação. Cheia de suspense e espiritualmente profunda, esta biografia revela, a partir do ponto de vista de um dos mais temerários e devotos praticantes do desporto, o que é surfar com alma.
Surfar ondas incríveis não é apenas um gosto pela emoção, explica Mcnamara - trata-se de vencer os medos e ultrapassar obstáculos do passado e do presente. Lobo do mar é um testemunho de perseverança, paixão e superação. Cheia de suspense e espiritualmente profunda, esta biografia revela, a partir do ponto de vista de um dos mais temerários e devotos praticantes do desporto, o que é surfar com alma.
320 pages, Paperback
First published August 16, 2016
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April 25, 2017
Garrett Mc Namara não é só quem surfou aquela onda gigante na Nazaré, é também e acima de tudo o vivo exemplo de que nunca é tarde para se recomeçar, para se mudar de vida e fazer diferente, fazer melhor.
Ao longo de "Lobo do Mar", Mc Namara dá-nos a conhecer a sua história de vida meio atribulada, levada muitas vezes ao limite por uma certa inconsciência, despreocupação e ausência de regras. A dada altura, decide mudar completamente de rumo, vendo no surf uma forma de vida e concretização. E é assim que, em busca de uma grande onda, chega a Nazaré em 2011 e surfa uma onda de quase 24 metros, entrando para o Guiness e tornando a vila mundialmente conhecida.
A partir daí a sua vida mudou. A da Nazaré também por causa das ondas gigantes que ali se formam a dada altura do ano, atraindo inúmeros surfistas de todo o mundo e contribuindo, por sua vez, para o crescente desenvolvimento da economia local.
Uma das partes que mais gostei neste livro foi aquela que Mc Namara dedicou a falar da sua chegada à Nazaré e do modo como a sua relação com a região se desenvolveu. É muito bonito ler alguém que não é português, mas que tem Portugal no coração, falar tão bem do nosso país e reconhecer-lhe um valor que habitualmente os nacionais não sentem... Vale a pena!
Ao longo de "Lobo do Mar", Mc Namara dá-nos a conhecer a sua história de vida meio atribulada, levada muitas vezes ao limite por uma certa inconsciência, despreocupação e ausência de regras. A dada altura, decide mudar completamente de rumo, vendo no surf uma forma de vida e concretização. E é assim que, em busca de uma grande onda, chega a Nazaré em 2011 e surfa uma onda de quase 24 metros, entrando para o Guiness e tornando a vila mundialmente conhecida.
A partir daí a sua vida mudou. A da Nazaré também por causa das ondas gigantes que ali se formam a dada altura do ano, atraindo inúmeros surfistas de todo o mundo e contribuindo, por sua vez, para o crescente desenvolvimento da economia local.
Uma das partes que mais gostei neste livro foi aquela que Mc Namara dedicou a falar da sua chegada à Nazaré e do modo como a sua relação com a região se desenvolveu. É muito bonito ler alguém que não é português, mas que tem Portugal no coração, falar tão bem do nosso país e reconhecer-lhe um valor que habitualmente os nacionais não sentem... Vale a pena!
August 11, 2017
This is the story of Garrett McNamara, a surfer from Hawaii who holds a Guinness record for surfing the worlds largest wave. This wave, incidentally, is off Nazare, Portugal and the events surrounding that wave are a very exciting section at the end of the book.
Autobiography or Biography? Not sure; the main author is clearly McNammara, and his voice is so strong and individualistic that the book very much feels like a straightforward person telling you about themselves, there are no literary flourishes. There is a co-author given, though not one I had heard of (and, perhaps more importantly, not one I can get GR to accept, so; my apologies co-author, if you exist) .
For about the first hundred pages, this is the story of how McNamara and his brother grew up. This was very much the 60's - 70's hippy, commune era and their growing up was very unusual by today's standards. This part is interesting though after a while I started getting impatient to get back to the ocean. I think that a whole book could be written about this era and that it was trimmed down to anecdotes that the author felt helped shape the core of who is is. This part also suffered a little from continuity problems (more on that latter) and I personally cringed at the childish animal cruelty stores that the author.authors seem to find amusing and endearing.
When we reached Hawaii it became fascinating!
Personally, I am not a surfer. I did one lesson on my 30th birthday, I nearly killed myself with my own board and the two students next to me were lucky to escape un-maimed. I don't even know anyone who surfs. What I am is an ocean addict, anything marine fascinates me and it is very hard to find books which capture the joy, fascination, awe and sheer blood pounding amazement of the oceans and seas. This visceral response to the ocean seems to be very much a feature for surfers though, so I enjoyed this book on that level.
Hawaii of the 70's? 80's? was fascinating to read about, the surf culture was unique in so many ways and I loved reading about the surrounds in which McNamara became a pro-surfer. The culture and the place were clearly a big part in shaping him and I really enjoyed the blunt, uncompromising way in which he describes himself and his journey to becoming who he is today. He did some pretty dumb and pretty unconscious things but I certainly respect the way he owns them without excuses and then evolves his own mindfulness and goes his own way . The point in his life in which he looks around at who and where he is, decides consciously what he wants it to be and then gives anything to following that goal is inspirational. He does that at the stage when most people just accept that there life is what it is and give up their dreams. I loved that he did change it around and became a pro surfer of large waves much older than more pro surfers seem to make it.
Now of the ocean; the deep understanding of how waves work, how all the factors including the wind and the shore line shapes them and the sea beneath them affects the wave show an ongoing obsession with the ocean and it's moods, the very thing I like to read about but which is rarely written. Also, the deep respect for the oceans that produce waves and which are untamed and often unpredictable comes through in the writing quite beautifully. The lyrical descriptions of the waves and barrels are everything that made me start keeping an eye out for books by/about surfers.
The negatives of this book are in the writing style which is often, very often, totally disorganised: It chops and changes a lot time wise, so that much of the time we can lose track of on ongoing narrative. We often don't know what year we are reading about and that actually bothered me more in the childhood section (where it is likely the author himself isn't certain) than in the later part of the book. As well as what year, there seems a strong tendency to mix the timeline up, so as a continuous narrative it often fails. There is one section where as a surfer McNamara goes to Tahiti, then he describes a surfing experience that happened years before (I think) then we skipped to present day, then to a different location....
It seems that we follow the authors personal experiences of the waves, sites and individuals in a way that is a linear experience for him, which on the whole does not impair the strengths of the book but may leave some readers adrift. I was able to largely gloss over timeline or location confusion and concentrate on the actual surfing experiences, which are beautifully described, the wipe-outs which are terrifying exciting and as the cover says: Wild.
PS. I seem to have got the budget version, while the online description mentioned colour photos, mine had only a few, well chosen black and whites.
Autobiography or Biography? Not sure; the main author is clearly McNammara, and his voice is so strong and individualistic that the book very much feels like a straightforward person telling you about themselves, there are no literary flourishes. There is a co-author given, though not one I had heard of (and, perhaps more importantly, not one I can get GR to accept, so; my apologies co-author, if you exist) .
For about the first hundred pages, this is the story of how McNamara and his brother grew up. This was very much the 60's - 70's hippy, commune era and their growing up was very unusual by today's standards. This part is interesting though after a while I started getting impatient to get back to the ocean. I think that a whole book could be written about this era and that it was trimmed down to anecdotes that the author felt helped shape the core of who is is. This part also suffered a little from continuity problems (more on that latter) and I personally cringed at the childish animal cruelty stores that the author.authors seem to find amusing and endearing.
When we reached Hawaii it became fascinating!
Personally, I am not a surfer. I did one lesson on my 30th birthday, I nearly killed myself with my own board and the two students next to me were lucky to escape un-maimed. I don't even know anyone who surfs. What I am is an ocean addict, anything marine fascinates me and it is very hard to find books which capture the joy, fascination, awe and sheer blood pounding amazement of the oceans and seas. This visceral response to the ocean seems to be very much a feature for surfers though, so I enjoyed this book on that level.
Hawaii of the 70's? 80's? was fascinating to read about, the surf culture was unique in so many ways and I loved reading about the surrounds in which McNamara became a pro-surfer. The culture and the place were clearly a big part in shaping him and I really enjoyed the blunt, uncompromising way in which he describes himself and his journey to becoming who he is today. He did some pretty dumb and pretty unconscious things but I certainly respect the way he owns them without excuses and then evolves his own mindfulness and goes his own way . The point in his life in which he looks around at who and where he is, decides consciously what he wants it to be and then gives anything to following that goal is inspirational. He does that at the stage when most people just accept that there life is what it is and give up their dreams. I loved that he did change it around and became a pro surfer of large waves much older than more pro surfers seem to make it.
Now of the ocean; the deep understanding of how waves work, how all the factors including the wind and the shore line shapes them and the sea beneath them affects the wave show an ongoing obsession with the ocean and it's moods, the very thing I like to read about but which is rarely written. Also, the deep respect for the oceans that produce waves and which are untamed and often unpredictable comes through in the writing quite beautifully. The lyrical descriptions of the waves and barrels are everything that made me start keeping an eye out for books by/about surfers.
The negatives of this book are in the writing style which is often, very often, totally disorganised: It chops and changes a lot time wise, so that much of the time we can lose track of on ongoing narrative. We often don't know what year we are reading about and that actually bothered me more in the childhood section (where it is likely the author himself isn't certain) than in the later part of the book. As well as what year, there seems a strong tendency to mix the timeline up, so as a continuous narrative it often fails. There is one section where as a surfer McNamara goes to Tahiti, then he describes a surfing experience that happened years before (I think) then we skipped to present day, then to a different location....
It seems that we follow the authors personal experiences of the waves, sites and individuals in a way that is a linear experience for him, which on the whole does not impair the strengths of the book but may leave some readers adrift. I was able to largely gloss over timeline or location confusion and concentrate on the actual surfing experiences, which are beautifully described, the wipe-outs which are terrifying exciting and as the cover says: Wild.
PS. I seem to have got the budget version, while the online description mentioned colour photos, mine had only a few, well chosen black and whites.
October 8, 2016
Even though surfing has become more mainstream over time, the name Garrett McNamara might not ring a bell like, say, Kelly Slater or Bethany Hamilton. But what if I told you G-Mac has surfed world-record-breaking, massive waves- and lived to tell the tale? This is his story, but before he could make the Guinness Book of World Records or put the monster waves of Nazaré, Portugal on the map, he had an unusual childhood as the son of two wayfaring hippies. The opposite of helicopter parenting, McNamara grew up with virtually no rules in liberal communes and on the road with his "Gitana" mother. Eventually, he makes it to Hawaii, where the saltwater gets in his blood and his surfing career is born. Over the years, McNamara attempts to balance fellow islanders, family, sponsors, women, and waves as he his place in the world: which is smack-dab in the lineup for the biggest waves he can find. See Pipeline, Teahupo'o, Peahi (aka Jaws), Cortes Bank, and Nazaré through McNamara's eyes and find out how one surfer's unlikely journey spans a fast-evolving sport that continues to grow and morph today. McNamara's story will challenge the way you see the ocean and shed light on a surfer's life... who knows, the book might even stoke you up to get on a board!
October 8, 2020
Great sports memoir by big-wave surfer Garrett McNamara, with a bit of thoughtful Zen rules for life added for good measure.
March 1, 2017
Being a weak swimmer, suffice to say surfing is completely foreign to me. However, I still remember the first time I saw that photo on the cover. I had goosebumps. Garrett's life is a surprisingly interesting read. A true cast of characters.
His passion for surfing is obvious and contagious. Perhaps it's time to craft my own blueprint and take swimming lessons!
His passion for surfing is obvious and contagious. Perhaps it's time to craft my own blueprint and take swimming lessons!
August 20, 2018
I think I was looking for something a little more literary, a la "Barbarian Days." Instead, this was a too-long account of McNamara's bizarre nomadic upbringing and his (boring) moves in the surfing world. His voice is leaden and repetitive, and I lost interest halfway through but powered on.
March 2, 2017
My brother-in-law bought it in an airport and loaned it to me afterward. A quick easy read about a topic I'm not all that interested in--surfing. However, I found the story of McNamara really engaging. His childhood fascinated me. Coming from a straight-laced Southern culture with parents who made sure we followed all the rules, descriptions of his childhood with his nomadic parents was a little surreal. The later part of the book wasn't as interesting to me because it got more into his surfing career and described stuff (waves, surfing terms) for which I have no context. But there's some good stuff in there about fear. Also, short-chapters and a quick pace to the story keep me going.
August 11, 2017
McNamara's surf memoir is a worthy read if only for the fact that he was the first to conquer surfing a 100 ft wave. This work chronicles McNamara's life from childhood through the present.
With respect to non-fiction memoirs written by prominent personalities from the surfing world, I make it a point to read them all. Unlike other athletic pursuits, surfers rarely take time to write about their sport. "Hound of the Sea" is a story written by a surfer for surfers. The title is a reference to the author's Celtic surname meaning "hound of the sea".
Unlike Finnegan's "Barbarian Days" and Duane's "Caught Inside," McNamara's story doesn't come across as a literary, colorful, masterpiece of prose. Nearly all the chapters are 5-6 pages long that address specific milestones or memorable moments in the author's life. The first 77 pages seemed pretty unremarkable at first, but later it was clear how the early non-surfing years of the author's life gave shape to his life goal "To Keep Surfing".
What I really enjoyed about reading this book was the honesty and mater of fact transparency the author so humbly offers to anyone interested in really knowing what it is to walk in his shoes (or more appropriately his flip flops). Among the elite few who've ever surfed "Jaws," "Teahupo'o," "Mavericks," or "Cortes Bank" to name a handful of big wave spots, at one point or another, these surfers all discover that what they do in the water is like living in a fish bowl. The chapter titled "Incident at Cortes Bank" is one example of how the opinions of non-witnesses and media could really crush a person's spirit. This was a really important passage and I'm glad McNamara chose to include it.
What I didn't enjoy reading about was the cavalier attitude toward including marijuana and other drugs in the surfing lifestyle. True as it may have been for McNamara, it is sad and disappointing to be reminded that not every surfer (even those who are tremendously accomplished) is a clean living, serious athlete.
In the end, what worked for me as an admirer of Garrett McNamara was the "blue print" he developed to become the kind of serious big wave rider who is worthy of historical recognition. In the realm where McNamara operates (riding enormous killer waves), one cannot imagine how these surfers are able to keep fear in check. In his words, brief and concise, on page 219, McNamara says, "Fear is something we create, because we're stuck in the past or envisioning the future. If we stay in the present there is no fear." Coming from a man who'd endured the physical trauma of having his body tortured from the thousands of pounds per square inch and being pounded on reefs countless times, there is no question that Mr. McNamara has the credibility to speak to fear.
McNamara's work is a testimony that even a crooked path can lead to greatness if one remains humble and sticks to their "blue print."
With respect to non-fiction memoirs written by prominent personalities from the surfing world, I make it a point to read them all. Unlike other athletic pursuits, surfers rarely take time to write about their sport. "Hound of the Sea" is a story written by a surfer for surfers. The title is a reference to the author's Celtic surname meaning "hound of the sea".
Unlike Finnegan's "Barbarian Days" and Duane's "Caught Inside," McNamara's story doesn't come across as a literary, colorful, masterpiece of prose. Nearly all the chapters are 5-6 pages long that address specific milestones or memorable moments in the author's life. The first 77 pages seemed pretty unremarkable at first, but later it was clear how the early non-surfing years of the author's life gave shape to his life goal "To Keep Surfing".
What I really enjoyed about reading this book was the honesty and mater of fact transparency the author so humbly offers to anyone interested in really knowing what it is to walk in his shoes (or more appropriately his flip flops). Among the elite few who've ever surfed "Jaws," "Teahupo'o," "Mavericks," or "Cortes Bank" to name a handful of big wave spots, at one point or another, these surfers all discover that what they do in the water is like living in a fish bowl. The chapter titled "Incident at Cortes Bank" is one example of how the opinions of non-witnesses and media could really crush a person's spirit. This was a really important passage and I'm glad McNamara chose to include it.
What I didn't enjoy reading about was the cavalier attitude toward including marijuana and other drugs in the surfing lifestyle. True as it may have been for McNamara, it is sad and disappointing to be reminded that not every surfer (even those who are tremendously accomplished) is a clean living, serious athlete.
In the end, what worked for me as an admirer of Garrett McNamara was the "blue print" he developed to become the kind of serious big wave rider who is worthy of historical recognition. In the realm where McNamara operates (riding enormous killer waves), one cannot imagine how these surfers are able to keep fear in check. In his words, brief and concise, on page 219, McNamara says, "Fear is something we create, because we're stuck in the past or envisioning the future. If we stay in the present there is no fear." Coming from a man who'd endured the physical trauma of having his body tortured from the thousands of pounds per square inch and being pounded on reefs countless times, there is no question that Mr. McNamara has the credibility to speak to fear.
McNamara's work is a testimony that even a crooked path can lead to greatness if one remains humble and sticks to their "blue print."
October 31, 2021
You don't need to be a surfer to appreciate the interesting life that McNamara has cultivated for himself. I really enjoyed reading about his life, the re-telling of which felt very honest and open for the most part.
More than anything, I appreciated hearing about the trials and tribulations. McNamara's journey wasn't delivered on a silver platter but things worked out nonetheless. There's some serious merit in that. When he talked about thinking his pro-surfing career was over in his thirties only to go on and tackle the largest waves in the world (like actually the very biggest, record breaking waves) later in his life was really inspirational. It can get easy to get caught up in the day to day and think that this is the peak of your career or the most important thing you'll ever work on but this book leaves me excited for the future and wondering what my next 33 years will deliver.
There's a lot to be said for going out and giving things a red-hot-go. McNamara has left me thinking about purpose. About getting in touch with the why and then going after it. I also appreciate how he shared how he set his goals, devised his plan and went to work. This is not a self-help book but it also kind of is.
The only bit of criticism I have is that I did feel that on certain subjects McNamara went a bit light on. Like when talking about drugs, his brother and his first marriage ending. I can understand this may have been out of protection but it carved out what felt like blindspots.
More than anything, I appreciated hearing about the trials and tribulations. McNamara's journey wasn't delivered on a silver platter but things worked out nonetheless. There's some serious merit in that. When he talked about thinking his pro-surfing career was over in his thirties only to go on and tackle the largest waves in the world (like actually the very biggest, record breaking waves) later in his life was really inspirational. It can get easy to get caught up in the day to day and think that this is the peak of your career or the most important thing you'll ever work on but this book leaves me excited for the future and wondering what my next 33 years will deliver.
There's a lot to be said for going out and giving things a red-hot-go. McNamara has left me thinking about purpose. About getting in touch with the why and then going after it. I also appreciate how he shared how he set his goals, devised his plan and went to work. This is not a self-help book but it also kind of is.
The only bit of criticism I have is that I did feel that on certain subjects McNamara went a bit light on. Like when talking about drugs, his brother and his first marriage ending. I can understand this may have been out of protection but it carved out what felt like blindspots.
May 23, 2020
An unconventional childhood bordering on abuse. A move as adolescent to Hawaii that changed his life and started his passion for surfing. Garrett McNamara defies odds after a huge wipe out and back injury to becoming a comeback world record holder. I love the ocean and man vs. Nature survival stories. The excitement of extreme sports is portrayed on the page and this ends up being a success story despite several bumps ie injuries, drugs along the way.
February 6, 2022
I love surfing! I’ve never surfed. Haha hopefully someday! But Garret’s life is an inspiration and I loved reading these stories. I was blown away by the rough and tumble childhood he had, and how he and his brother grew through it into respectable, loving humans. Kids are so super-resilient after all. I’m grateful for this book. Thank you for sharing yourself and your family with the world, Garrett and Nicole. I want to live more like you.
February 26, 2019
Snow days are good for something. I enjoyed this book. Not sure it is as good as other memoirs that I have read about other sport/extreme athletes. I do like to learn about how other people get from birth to accomplishment. I have always had a more than passing interest in surfing, so the whole thing was pretty interesting. Probably the most lack luster 4 star review I have ever written.
September 13, 2021
I enjoy reading the memoirs of people who are the best in their respective fields, even if the book isn't exceptionally insightful or well written. I'm not a surfer, nor have ever picked up reading material on the topic. But I found this to be an easy and accessible primer on the sport. Good for a low intensity vacation read when you just need to relax.
September 8, 2021
A good tale of Garretts life, can't say I'm itching to surf 100ft waves but it's certainly inspiring!. Lacked abit of direction as chapters went all over the place but what can you expect after some of the wipe outs this fellas had.
November 26, 2023
Sometimes I like to think of myself as a macho man. I read this and realized that I am nothing compared to this guys level of crazy (not in a bad way but maybe not good either). Truly a guy who grew up drinking from the hose if you know what I mean.
February 19, 2025
Brutal biografía de uno de los mayores surfistas de olas grandes del mundo (aunque parezca sátira constante! ).
January 10, 2018
Inspirational is an understatement.
What an awesome and uplifting book. 👏🏻
What an awesome and uplifting book. 👏🏻
March 16, 2017
This is a humble, heartfelt account of Garrett's life and a must read. Its up there with Barbarian Days, which is one of the best complements I can give.
February 6, 2017
***I voluntarily reviewed an Advanced Reader's Copy of this book for my honest review & I thank the publishers Harper Collins NZ***
Considering I hardly ever pick biographical books when I was given the catalogue for reviews from #HarperCollinsNZ the first thing that grabbed my eye was the cover, as a keen photographer it just drew me in to look closer, that #wave, its like #epic (I am channeling my latent #surferchick vibe, can you tell)
I LOVE the sea, having been born on the East Coast of England, and then moving to NZ and also living even nearer the sea (200m away) I then lived on the coast of Queensland for 3 years, and now I am back in Invercargill, and drive to Bluff twice a day and I do enjoy the ever-changing view of the sea. My goal is to get back to living with a #seaview again soon.
I have always wanted to learn to surf (and I decided to add it to my bucket list after reading this book) OK I doubt I will ride waves as big as Garrett does, but the thing is I've been glued to this book, and it is not just because it's about #surfing, because although it is, it is also about striving for your #dreams #goals and the main lesson I got from reading this book is that you #neverquit.
It was a truly inspirational read, at first, the book had my eyebrows raised, his childhood is like off the scale opposite to myself and my husband's, I couldn't imagine how he and his brothers did not fall foul of a sticky end. BUT I do think his unusual upbringing had something to do with the way he looks at life.
He talks candidly about his life, the highs and lows, the pages were full of stories that showed his Passion, commitment, friendship, loyalty and honesty. He lives for the moment, for all the possibilities, to pursue your dreams no matter they be big or small.
I think the one thing I will take from reading this book is that even when everything was going wrong, he still carried on... this has had an effect on me, So I will keep picking myself up as life throws its spanners in my life, smile and enjoy the journey down this road called life.
Considering I hardly ever pick biographical books when I was given the catalogue for reviews from #HarperCollinsNZ the first thing that grabbed my eye was the cover, as a keen photographer it just drew me in to look closer, that #wave, its like #epic (I am channeling my latent #surferchick vibe, can you tell)
I LOVE the sea, having been born on the East Coast of England, and then moving to NZ and also living even nearer the sea (200m away) I then lived on the coast of Queensland for 3 years, and now I am back in Invercargill, and drive to Bluff twice a day and I do enjoy the ever-changing view of the sea. My goal is to get back to living with a #seaview again soon.
I have always wanted to learn to surf (and I decided to add it to my bucket list after reading this book) OK I doubt I will ride waves as big as Garrett does, but the thing is I've been glued to this book, and it is not just because it's about #surfing, because although it is, it is also about striving for your #dreams #goals and the main lesson I got from reading this book is that you #neverquit.
It was a truly inspirational read, at first, the book had my eyebrows raised, his childhood is like off the scale opposite to myself and my husband's, I couldn't imagine how he and his brothers did not fall foul of a sticky end. BUT I do think his unusual upbringing had something to do with the way he looks at life.
He talks candidly about his life, the highs and lows, the pages were full of stories that showed his Passion, commitment, friendship, loyalty and honesty. He lives for the moment, for all the possibilities, to pursue your dreams no matter they be big or small.
Quote: Fear is a choice, something we manufacture in our in our minds. When we think about the past or the future we become afraid. We're afraid because we remember when something bad happened before and we're scared it's going to happen again. If we are in the moment and enjoying the moment and making the best of the moment, there is no fear.
I think the one thing I will take from reading this book is that even when everything was going wrong, he still carried on... this has had an effect on me, So I will keep picking myself up as life throws its spanners in my life, smile and enjoy the journey down this road called life.
October 18, 2019
Adoro o mar. Adoro o fundo do mar. Adoro desportos náuticos e admiro o Garrett, assim como admiro a força do mar e ao mesmo tempo o respeito, por poder ser tão bravo e tão violento do nada.
Andava há imenso tempo para ler este livro e por acaso, ou não, foi-me parar às mãos quando regressei de férias. Estava no continente com 50% de desconto e nem pensei duas vezes!
Adorei conhecer melhor o Lobo do mar, a sua infância, adolescência; as suas traquinices, erros, acidentes e como conseguiu sempre dar a volta por cima. Há pessoas com coragem, e eu não seria capaz de ter a do Garrett. Dei por mim cada vez mais viciada e envolvida no que estava a ler, até me apercebi que estava a suster a respiração quando nos fala sobre o surf e os seus acidentes dentro de água! Recomendo, sem dúvida!
Andava há imenso tempo para ler este livro e por acaso, ou não, foi-me parar às mãos quando regressei de férias. Estava no continente com 50% de desconto e nem pensei duas vezes!
Adorei conhecer melhor o Lobo do mar, a sua infância, adolescência; as suas traquinices, erros, acidentes e como conseguiu sempre dar a volta por cima. Há pessoas com coragem, e eu não seria capaz de ter a do Garrett. Dei por mim cada vez mais viciada e envolvida no que estava a ler, até me apercebi que estava a suster a respiração quando nos fala sobre o surf e os seus acidentes dentro de água! Recomendo, sem dúvida!
October 22, 2018
Uma biografia escrita de forma simples, do que me parece ser um homem simples na assunção genérica do modo de viver a vida com os outros. Após a leitura desta biografia, fiquei com a imagem de um homem que sobreviveu a muita coisa na sua vida e que por diversas vezes poderia ter corrido mal, mesmo muito mal e que por um mero acaso se dedicou ao surf e se tornou um dos grandes do surf mundial, muito respeitado, sobretudo graças à surfada da maior onda no canhão da Nazaré. Lobo do mar parece-me um título apropriado para esta biografia, pois é lá que o Garrett se sente bem, como refere várias vezes nesta história.
March 22, 2021
Interesting account of success despite upbringing being somewhat chaotic. I was surprised to note the book title. McNamara is my maiden name. It is an Irish surname "Mac (son) cú (hound) na Mara," (of the sea). Clever play on words, which will be known to few..You heard it here first!
July 17, 2017
Excellent biography.
Guy from dysfunctional family background spins a great tale.
His brother, World of surfing, journey of life.
Guy from dysfunctional family background spins a great tale.
His brother, World of surfing, journey of life.
January 18, 2019
Incrível... Riso, choro, ansiedade, adrenalina... Este livro supera expectativas!
November 24, 2023
In un po’ mi avevano detto di aver (ri)trovato nel surf una filosofia di vita simile a quella dei climbers e devo dire che sebbene l’acqua non sia il mio elemento preferito, l’autobiografia di Garrett McNamara (che mi è stato regalato) mi è piaciuto moltissimo – e mi ha profondamente toccata. Confermo che l’approccio alla vita dei surfer è simile a quello dei climbers, ma non è questo l’unico motivo per cui questo libro mi è piaciuto moltissimo: la parte che mi ha letteralmente catturata stato il racconto dell’infanzia di Garrett (record mondiale della più grande Big Wave mai surfata, 30 mt, a Nazaré in Portogallo). Nato nel 1967 negli Stati Uniti, cioè nel pieno della rivoluzione socio-culturale, da una coppia di genitori decisamente “scoppiati”, Garret (insieme a suo fratello) è stata una “cavia” per così dire di quello che erano non tanto i nuovi metodi educativi, quanto i nuovi approcci alla vita di quegli anni. Non che i suoi genitori (separati fin da quando erano piccoli) avessero usato i figli intenzionalmente per sperimentare le nuove teorie sociologiche: più che altro loro stessi erano alla ricerca di sé e in questo loro percorso hanno trascinato giocoforza i figli. Che non hanno particolarmente amato, sebbene fossero piccoli e si potrebbe pensare che “tanto ai bambini va bene tutto”, oppure che “tanto i bambini non si ricorderanno molto”. Sicuramente Garrett non si ricorderà di ogni particolare, ma la solitudine, lo smarrimento anche se in presenza costante della madre è la nota più forte della sua infanzia. Malià (così si fa chiamare la madre) è stata una di quelle donne che ha voluto passare diverse fasi: dalla comunità, a quella delle droghe, al pellegrinaggio penitente, da un uomo all’altro e i figli (e oggi è praticamente una yuppie!) erano trascinati seco oppure lasciati per qualche tempo in case di persone incontrate per via. Garrett ha cominciato a fumare erba fino all’età di 10 anni (ma tanto l’erba non fa male, né come il tabacco, né come l’alcol…) e sorprendentemente (questo lo rimarca egli stesso) lui è comunque riuscito a non “smarrirsi” mai, è riuscito a rimanere centrato su di sé, pur dovendo seguire il flow della madre. Sì, forse oggi i due bambini verrebbero tolti alla madre per “incuria”, per semi abbandono, ma quelli erano altri tempi e Garrett, con una positività incredibile, riconosce che il vantaggio più grande di quell’educazione è stata la grande libertà che hanno avuto di scegliersi il proprio cammino. Insomma, di fatto, a dispetto di un’infanzia e un’adolescenza veramente a limite della patria potestà (da leggere! Da leggere!) i due ragazzi sono comunque davvero a trovare la loro strada e a diventare due grandissimi surfer. Liam, il secondo, in seguito abbandonerà il surf per dedicarsi alla gestione di negozi di articoli da surf, mentre Garrett… Beh, Garrett lo seguiremo tra una tavola e l’altra, tra un matrimonio con tre figli e un altro (che gli ha portato altri 3 figli), tra vittorie e cadute, resurrezioni e momenti di blocco totale, fino ad arrivare a ritrovarsi interamente, ma non tanto perché sia riuscito a surfare l’onda più alta della storia ad oggi (come spiega lui) ma perché appunto lui è riuscito a seguire quello che era il suo cammino, quello che lui sentiva essere la strada giusta per sé, a ritrovarla sempre, anche se a tratti l’aveva persa. Veramente una gran bella storia.
July 28, 2023
Garrett speaks from the heart and translates it onto the page as smoothly as any author I’ve read. I listened to him on HBOs “100 foot wave” and on a few podcasts and I find myself hearing him speak as I read. To someone new to him, his writing style matches his lifestyle; wild, free spirited, spontaneous and at times non-linear. Each story has some deeper meaning to Garrett that shines through as musings on fear, family, discipline, addiction, longevity, and spirituality (including life purpose and karma for Garrett). The stories early in his life set up the contrast and duality of his free spirited gitana side and his disciplined, fierce and seemingly fearless side. Ultimately it feels like he finds peace and balances these opposing parts of him through the middle ground of helping others, being authentic, and building a legacy. Throughout the book, his growth as a person as shown in the later chapters is linked back to earlier life stories (Jesus Christ Lightning Amen and “no sex. No killing. No materialism” or the role models and friends become family that he reconnects with. All of this seems to add to his authenticity and humility.
His life story is spectacular, winding and humble. I would recommend it to most people with the caveat that his style may not be for you.
One of my favourite parts of the book discusses fear and spirituality:
“I jump in the water and begin my reset ritual which I learned from Kent Ewing, a spiritual guide and healer who’s worked with surfers, including Greg Long before he won the 2009 Eddie. Floating there, I take deep breaths into my belly. I imagine breathing in all the energy around me. Energy from the water, from the fish swimming beneath me, from the trees in the shore.”
“Fear is a choice, something we manufacture in our in our minds. When we think about the past or the future we become afraid. We're afraid because we remember when something bad happened before and we're scared it's going to happen again. If we are in the moment and enjoying the moment and making the best of the moment, there is no fear.”
A few other quotes I enjoyed:
“Usually while I was training I’d listen to music and focus on my breathing. I was praying. I was focusing. I was manifesting. I was meditating. And always in a spirit of humility. I was realistic about my surfing ability. I did honestly think most everyone was better than me, but I trusted in this plan, and on my ability to see it through. And every day I thanked God in advance for the way he was going to bless me.
Pretty much everyone I knew thought I was crazy.
I hired a few people to help me at the store. When the waves were good I would be in the water at least three hours a day, sometimes a long as eight. Every morning I got up in the dark, long before Connie and the kids. Depending on the size and direction of the swell, I would either ride my bike to Wai-mea, or drive five minutes to Sunset If was pumping, I'd get in a short session before my workout. Otherwise, I'd train in the dark, then surf later in the day.
There's nothing like paddling out while dawn is breaking to male you grateful for everything.
I am not what has happened to me. I am what I choose to become.
His life story is spectacular, winding and humble. I would recommend it to most people with the caveat that his style may not be for you.
One of my favourite parts of the book discusses fear and spirituality:
“I jump in the water and begin my reset ritual which I learned from Kent Ewing, a spiritual guide and healer who’s worked with surfers, including Greg Long before he won the 2009 Eddie. Floating there, I take deep breaths into my belly. I imagine breathing in all the energy around me. Energy from the water, from the fish swimming beneath me, from the trees in the shore.”
“Fear is a choice, something we manufacture in our in our minds. When we think about the past or the future we become afraid. We're afraid because we remember when something bad happened before and we're scared it's going to happen again. If we are in the moment and enjoying the moment and making the best of the moment, there is no fear.”
A few other quotes I enjoyed:
“Usually while I was training I’d listen to music and focus on my breathing. I was praying. I was focusing. I was manifesting. I was meditating. And always in a spirit of humility. I was realistic about my surfing ability. I did honestly think most everyone was better than me, but I trusted in this plan, and on my ability to see it through. And every day I thanked God in advance for the way he was going to bless me.
Pretty much everyone I knew thought I was crazy.
I hired a few people to help me at the store. When the waves were good I would be in the water at least three hours a day, sometimes a long as eight. Every morning I got up in the dark, long before Connie and the kids. Depending on the size and direction of the swell, I would either ride my bike to Wai-mea, or drive five minutes to Sunset If was pumping, I'd get in a short session before my workout. Otherwise, I'd train in the dark, then surf later in the day.
There's nothing like paddling out while dawn is breaking to male you grateful for everything.
I am not what has happened to me. I am what I choose to become.
December 25, 2025
A memoir that arrived too soon, moves fast, hits the highlights, and never sticks around long enough to ask why any of it mattered. 5.4/10
This book reads like the behind the scenes commentary track to 100 Foot Wave. If you already know Garrett McNamara through that amazing show, this adds some useful shading, particularly around how he went from a kid stumbling into surfing to a man deliberately hunting waves our minds can hardly fathom. It’s a very quick read and that speed works in its favour. Chapters are short, chronological, and clean. It reads quickly, largely because nothing is given enough space to become meaningful.
This reads like a memoir published at halftime. The desire to get it out clearly arrived before the desire to think it through. Big moments show up, announce themselves, and move on before any context or exploration of significance can occur. . Relationships blur together, key events lack shape, and anything remotely uncomfortable is handled with noticeable caution. It’s not dishonest so much as brand-safe, like a life story edited with future podcast appearances in mind. The book feels unfinished, less because Garrett’s story is ongoing, but because curiosity never really kicks in.
The childhood chapters are the most revealing, largely by accident. “Free-spirited” is doing an impressive amount of damage control here. Several decisions described would today raise eyebrows at best and involve authorities at worst, particularly where his mother is concerned. This is less a tale of growing up by the ocean and more of surviving a long-running family experiment. In the end, it works as a companion to the show and little more: extra colour, minimal depth, and the reading equivalent of skimming before the meeting.
This book reads like the behind the scenes commentary track to 100 Foot Wave. If you already know Garrett McNamara through that amazing show, this adds some useful shading, particularly around how he went from a kid stumbling into surfing to a man deliberately hunting waves our minds can hardly fathom. It’s a very quick read and that speed works in its favour. Chapters are short, chronological, and clean. It reads quickly, largely because nothing is given enough space to become meaningful.
This reads like a memoir published at halftime. The desire to get it out clearly arrived before the desire to think it through. Big moments show up, announce themselves, and move on before any context or exploration of significance can occur. . Relationships blur together, key events lack shape, and anything remotely uncomfortable is handled with noticeable caution. It’s not dishonest so much as brand-safe, like a life story edited with future podcast appearances in mind. The book feels unfinished, less because Garrett’s story is ongoing, but because curiosity never really kicks in.
The childhood chapters are the most revealing, largely by accident. “Free-spirited” is doing an impressive amount of damage control here. Several decisions described would today raise eyebrows at best and involve authorities at worst, particularly where his mother is concerned. This is less a tale of growing up by the ocean and more of surviving a long-running family experiment. In the end, it works as a companion to the show and little more: extra colour, minimal depth, and the reading equivalent of skimming before the meeting.
February 25, 2025
When the greatest big wave surfer of all time meets writing, the result is pure magic. Throughout the book, you feel close to the author, living everything with him—challenge after challenge, success after success. Already fascinated by his talent in the ocean, I am just as impressed by his writing skills. This book teaches us so much about him—his story, his journey—but also about resilience, pain, fear, happiness, and sheer determination. One of the most beautiful biographies I’ve ever had the chance to read. Thank you, Mr. McNamara.
August 16, 2025
I enjoyed reading about Gmac's life. He had a difficult childhood and rose up to become a world renowned surfer. I also appreciated how this book was written because I could hear Garrett's voice in my head as I read the book. I am not a surfer but I appreciate how he worked hard and his dedication to become what he is today.
April 11, 2020
Inspirador, que mostra devemos deixar os nossos medos e receios de lado para seguir o nosso maior sonho. O maior sonho de Garrett McNamara é surfar as maiores ondas, e neste livro seguimos o trajecto na luta para concretizar esse sonho
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