Kimball is known for his involvement with Cooks Illustrated. In this new project, Kimball focuses on bold and simple food for home cooks that combines ingredients and techniques from round the world. Kimball includes a pantry list with occasional brand recommendations that includes fairly well-known ingredients with a few exceptions like shichimi togarashi. It’s an interesting section to read because it explains the flavors, uses and sometimes substitutes for a variety of ingredients. Kimball is a strong advocate for carbon steel pans, and he explains why and how to season them. I’m not a fan, as much as I’d like to be. They are cheap and if well seasoned will provide a non-stick surface. But I don’t like how they look, I don’t like how hot the handles get, I don’t like how thin they are, I don’t like seasoning my pans, and I don’t like that I can’t plunge them into water without them cracking. And, I like to clean my pans with soap.
Recipes are easy to follow, indicate how long they will take-which seems fairly accurate, servings and numbered steps. Colored pictures throughout with a few essays on techniques. These are generally quick dishes. The focus seems to be a kind of world tour of different types of dishes including egg dishes from Persia, soups from japan, fish from Vietnam, and chicken from China. If you are familiar with ethnic food, almost none of the dishes will surprise you. A couple of possible unique exceptions includes the avocado salad with pickled mustard seeds and marjoram vinaigrette and the cracked potatoes with vermouth, coriander and fennel. There are few traditional “American” dishes, and most that are included are desserts.
There are some gems within many of the recipes that are worth rooting out, like massaging kale with some ground almonds to help tenderize and rehydrating starch to help it absorb sauce better. It is these tips that help to differentiate the book from other ethnic cookbooks.
The other strength of the book is the bold flavors and relatively simple recipes collected in one book