Dressmaking: The Indispensable Guide

by Jules Fallon

A practical illustrated guide to techniques, tools and troubleshooting from a couture dressmaker.

This book is a beautifully presented and comprehensive resource for dressmakers new to the craft and for those who want to take their skills further. It features scores of step-by-step sequences showing every kind of technique, from using and adapting paper patterns, to couture-inspired seaming techniques that will take garment-making skills to a new level.

Some notable and practical features of the book are:



all photos illustrate the sewer's perspective from above, whether hand sewing or using a machine fine details (such as a small notch) are shown in close-up photo call outs photo annotations point out important details lengthy descriptive captions leave no opportunity for confusion. The contents cover the full breadth of dressmaking. The following are just a few of them.



Sewing Kit -- the tools and materials required, including a sewing machine, overlocker/serger, and how to choose and use them Preparation -- Natural and synthetic fabrics, how to choose fabrics, prepping and handling, pre-washing, types of thread, interfacings, understanding and sizing a pattern Cutting -- Laying out and pinning fabric and patterns, weighting, marking, and tacking Making - Pressing is not ironing, creating shape, open and closed seams, pockets, openings and closures, zippers, sleeves and cuffs, collars, yokes, waistbands, decorative features, sewing jersey Finishing -- Bound edges, facings, hems, and linings Resources -- Metric/imperial conversion, sewing machine needles sizes and uses, common seam allowances, and US, UK and European size conversions. Other valuable topics covered are the anatomy of a stitch, correcting thread tension, fixing stitches, working 4-thread jersey, what selvedge is and how grain lines work, how to measure yourself (and why), how to alter a pattern to fit, making a toile (a personalized, muslin, fitting dress).

Dressmaking: The Indispensable Guide is an essential reference.

Genres: Sewing, Nonfiction

256 pages, Hardcover

First published September 1, 2017

Reviews

[Susan Collinsworth · Rating 3 out of 5]

A basic guide for the beginner level. Clearly conveyed information, copious nice photos to instruct. I didn't read every word, but one doesn't in books like this.

Here's a random example: "A rouleau is like piping cord, but without the flange to attach it to a garment. The excess fabric is actually turned inside the casing and creates the cord from itself. Because of the way a rouleau is made, it really only works with lightweight, closely woven fabrics such as silk charmeuse, cotton poplin, or lawn."

This answered one question: (Are rouleau and piping interchangeable? ) But creates another: she mentions poplin, but doesn't define it, either here or elsewhere. So it's not perfect. But it would be a fine reference. She covers lots of topics, including tips for the construction of more tricky areas like collars and cuffs.

[Lisa · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is an excellent how to guide for the novice sewer, with a lot of illustrations and detailed explanation of sewing and what you will need, plus what you might want in order to be successful and productive when sewing. I am actually going to see if I can purchase a copy of this book from Amazon - or perhaps another source to keep at home to refer back to. That way I won't have to check it out from the local library repeatedly to refresh my memory.

[Jec · Rating 4 out of 5]

multiple photos
clear concise instructions