And yet--and perhaps with the same perversity with which moviegoers find film noir romantic, even though they are sad stories of luckless people--Havana, for all its smells, sweat, crumbling walls, isolation, and difficult history, is the most romantic city in the world.
As someone who has actually been to the wonderful city of Havana, but who knows very little about it, I was excited to read Mark Kurlansky's Havana: A Subtropical Delirium so I could gain a more complete and intimate knowledge of the city and its history. I was not disappointed. Kurlansky's book details the history of the city all the way back to the colonization of Cuba by the Spanish over five hundred years ago, economically moving from then to the city's modern history, and most places in between, in a book that's somehow only 272 pages long.
Seemingly everything you'd want to know about the city is covered, and Kurlansky pulls no punches. Havana, like many cities in the Americas, was heavily reliant on African slaves brought in as part of the Atlantic slave trade. These slaves were treated horribly, could be mutilated publicly for people's amusement, and were treated like cattle. Kurlansky doesn't shy away from telling this and other difficult parts of the city's history, like the Spanish colonization and subsequent genocide of the Taino people, who were the native inhabitants of Cuba pre-colonization, and the city's class system, which is largely based on race and racism.
Topics covered include the city's history as it relates to the Cuban Revolution, its history and relationship with the United States, its religions, food, important buildings, music, climate, architecture, races, customs, languages, sports, statues, neighbourhoods, tourism, and much more. For a book that includes so much detail on so many topics, it is rarely boring, and as I mentioned is quite short, so it's easy to get through if you do end up getting bored.
A few minor criticisms. For better or worse, the book is a bit scatterbrained, jumping between comprehensive historical accounts of some parts of Havana's history and more relaxed factoids, like that of Fidel Castro's affection for ice cream. To highlight this jumping between the two, one chapter had "Death" in the title, initially discussing a somber part of the city's history, but by the end of the chapter the author was discussing Havana's restaurants and listing recipes for some of its local food and drink. It seemed a bit disconnected to me.
The book also does have pictures, but I personally found they were somewhat scarce. I would have liked to see more pictures of some of the important people, places, buildings, and statues mentioned in the book. That being said, I did like the pictures that were included, and found they complimented the text well.
The food recipes were also a bit of a disappointment. When I found out this book had recipes for Havana's food, I was really excited to read them, so I could try to make them myself at home. But it turns out you can't really use some of them. Some don't have any quantities listed for the ingredients, and some require hard-to-find ingredients, such as roots that are native to Cuba.
Criticisms aside, I enjoyed Havana. It's a fairly comprehensive and clearly well-researched account of the history of one of the world's most incredible cities. I came away with a far more intimate knowledge of the city than I had before, so I'm very glad I decided to pick this one up.
Recommended!