Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt

by Eugenia Paulicelli, Joanne B. Eicher (Series Editor)

When we think of Italian fashion, Gucci, Max Mara and the meteoric rise of Prada immediately spring to mind. But Italian fashion has a dark history that has not previously been explored. The Fascism of 1930s Italy dominated more than just politics - it spilled over into modes of dress. Fashion under Fascism is the first book to consider this link in detail.Fashion often functions as a tacit means of making a social statement, but under Mussolini it vividly reflected political tyranny. Ones allegiance to the regime was choreographed by the dictatorship with the intent of creating a new national consciousness. Women in particular were manipulated through fashion ideals to create an authentic Italian femininity. Paulicelli explores the subtle yet sinister changes to the seemingly innocuous practices of everyday dress and shows why they were such a concern for the state. Importantly, she also demonstrates how these developments impacted on the global dominance of Italian fashion today.This fascinating book includes interviews with major designers, such as Fernanda Gattinoni and Micol Fontana, and sheds new light on the complicated relationship between style and politics.

Genres: Fashion, History, Nonfiction

240 pages, Paperback

First published April 24, 2004

Reviews

[Snail in Danger (Sid) Nicolaides]

The preface is interesting and briefly mentions conduct manuals as well as (IIRC) surviving pattern books from the Renaissance.

[Praj · Rating 3 out of 5]

An edifying evaluation of the fruition of Italian fashion from the blockades of fascism to a liberated identity. Paulicelli expertly carves a map of Italian fashion,illustrating its thriving in the nascent form as a shadow of high French couture in the 17th century to the uprising of fashion as a political and economical phenomenon; eventually carving a niche as the national identity of Italy with the ubiquitous “Made in Italy” labels.