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Islander: A Journey Around Our Archipelago

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Britain is an archipelago made up of two large islands and 6,289 smaller ones. Some, like the Isle of Man, resemble miniature nations, with their own language and tax laws; others, like Ray Island in Essex, are abandoned and mysterious places haunted by myths, ghosts and foxes. There are resurgent islands such as Eigg, which have been liberated from capricious owners to be run by their residents; holy islands like Bardsey, the resting place of 20,000 saints, and still a site of spiritual questing; and deserted islands such as St Kilda, famed for the evacuation of its human population, and now dominated by wild sheep and seabirds. In this evocative and vividly observed book, Patrick Barkham explores some of the most beautiful landscapes in Britain as he travels to ever-smaller islands in search of their special magic. Our small islands are both places of freedom and imprisonment, party destinations and oases of peace, strangely suburban and deeply wild. They are places where the past is unusually present, but they can also offer a vision of an alternative future. Meeting all kinds of islanders, from nuns to puffins, from local legends to rare subspecies of vole, he seeks to discover what it is like to live on a small island, and what it means to be an islander.

368 pages, Hardcover

First published October 5, 2017

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About the author

Patrick Barkham

12 books36 followers
Patrick Barkham first went butterfly spotting as a child with his father in Norfolk. His book The Butterfly Isles documents his search for as many species as possible as an adult.

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5 stars
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132 (51%)
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62 (24%)
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 42 reviews
Profile Image for Paul.
2,230 reviews
January 14, 2018
We are an island nation, and this element has gone a long way to defining our character as a people. As well as the main two islands, there are an astonishing 6,289 others, making us an archipelago. The largest of our islands is the Isle of Wight and they go all the way down to small pieces of rock that are only inhabited by seabirds. Some are permanently populated and are semi-autonomous states with their own laws, traditions and a very different view on taxation. Some have temporary residents or are strategic military locations and others were abandoned decades ago.

Form these 6,289 islands Patrick Barkham has chosen eleven that best portray an element that shows just how special these places can be. First on his list is the home of the TT, the Isle of Man, which along with Jersey and Guernsey are Crown Dependencies. This means that they are not part of the UK, nor part of its overseas territories nor part of the European Union. Whilst we are responsible for defence, they are a self-governing and self-contained island that has made a unique position for itself in the world. From there he heads north to three of the Scottish islands that face the brutal onslaught of the winter storms. These places were once the centre of the Neolithic world and the ancient landscape that we can still see resonates into the modern world. He meets some of the new owners of the island of Eigg who bought it from the original laird and see how it is run as a trust. He visits one of the most famous islands that was abandoned back in 1930, St. Kilda, now occupied by military contractors and seabirds. This wedge of rock that leaps almost half a kilometre from the ocean is the last remains on an ancient volcano.

Ireland has its fair share of the islands that go to make up our archipelago and he heads to Rathlin just off the north coast. Like many of our specks of land, it is populated with mostly seabirds, but here people still make a living from the place. His tour of our island bounty would be amiss if the Scilly Isles and the Channel Islands were not visited, so he heads to Prison Island in Alderney home of the only Nazi concentration camp on British soil and St Martin's, which is less than 1 square mile in size. But it is the islands that are so very tiny that are the icing on the cake of his all too brief journey. In Ynys Enlli he learns about the spiritual dimensions and solitude that an island can offer His final destination is two islands off the wild Essex coast, one that offers privacy and discretion to those need it and to one that is now abandoned and is slowly returning to nature.

This is another book by Barkham that is a heady blend of travel, natural history, personal stories and history. Bearing in mind he has barely dipped his toes in the tales that our islands can tell with the eleven he has chosen, there are some fascinating stories in here. Throughout the book, we hear the stories of Sir Compton Mackenzie, another man who was equally obsessed with islands and even bought one too as well as living on others. He is not afraid to talk about the positive and negative aspects of living on an island either. The beginning of each chapter on each island has a delightful sketch and a carefully chosen quote from D.H Lawrence 'The Man Who Loved Islands'. All of these elements deftly drift in and out of the narrative making it a joy to read.
Profile Image for Penny.
342 reviews90 followers
January 3, 2018
I really love this genre of book - nature, history, landscape and travel, with sometimes a little personal memoir thrown in too.

Barkham is well known as a 'nature writer' and I have enjoyed his previous books very much. There's a definite increase in maturity about his writing - maybe coming from the fact he is now a husband, and father of young children.

In Islander Barkham travels around a variety of UK islands (some that the public would normally find access to very difficult).

He has an open minded and caring approach and freely admits that many of his preconceived ideas about a place were very wrong.

He is inquisitive and eager to learn, but at the same time he remains non judgemental. And he tells a very good tale - I look forward with interest to what he will write about next!
Profile Image for Nancy.
1,273 reviews53 followers
June 23, 2018
Finished: 23.06.2018
Genre: non-fiction, travel writing
Rating: C
Conclusion:
Patrick Barkham's calm flow of writing is an acquired taste
...like olives.
I love the salty jolt of olives
but this book was soporific like a warm glass of milk.
I did discover islands surrounding the British Isles
...a few were interesting (Isle of Man) ..but most of the islands were boring.
I'll give it 3 stars because is an informative book
shortlisted for Stanford Dolman Travel Book of the Year 2018.
I won't be reading any more Barkham's books.....unfortunately.
Profile Image for Thebooktrail.
1,879 reviews340 followers
June 3, 2018
description

Visit the locations in the book


There’s something really fascinating about this book. I mean the British Isles is made up of so many islands but Patrick has picked 11 to look at and really get under the skin of. He does this so well and the islands he’s chosen are very unique for so many reasons.

An island can large with many people living on it, or so small only birds can survive - and that’s the fascination of this book. Some islands are more well known than others but each one has a history to share. St. Kilda, in particular is now occupied by military contractors as well as seabirds. Others only have seasonal populations. Some are almost ghost islands and they’re my favourites. Who or what has been spotted there? Gets you thinking.

Two most unique islands I think are Prison Island in Alderney which is the home of the only Nazi concentration camp on British soil and St Martin's, which is barely 1 square mile in size.

Patrick is a great guide - full of anecdotes, historical snippets, natural history information and personal tales all wrapped up with wit and friendliness. Recommended!
Profile Image for Mark Pollock.
16 reviews
June 12, 2023
I'm not quite clear on what this book thinks it is, it isn't a nature book; there's no where near enough detail to warrant that, it isn't a history book; the lack of thoroughness thwarts that theory and it isn't a travel book, unless you think at most two or three recommendations per chapter justifies that title. In reality, the closest type that matches is that of an (auto)biography. The biography is of Compton Mackenzie, dubbed 'The Man who Loved Islands' and the autobiography is of the author who claims so often to be following in his footsteps.

The book describes 11 islands dotted around the UK in an ambitious and regular 20 pages per island, I suspect because if he wrote only that for which there is substance, the book wouldn't be much more than a pamphlet. The islands chosen are those to which the author feels a story can be told, even if that story is oft-repeated: 'here is an island, no one lives here over winter, because it's a pretty lonely place. But because no one lives here, there's some nature, look, here's a description of a hawthorn bush'. And for that summary I'm probably going to have to hide this review because of spoilers.

So yeah, I wasn't a massive fan of this book - I guess it's a nice sunday read but only if your stranded on an island and didn't bring anything else to read. A habit which the author frequently likes to do, hang on, maybe that's why...
50 reviews
May 14, 2019
A good read about a very interesting topic. The author scratches the surface of the tale of each of the island that he visits but never goes much further than that.

There is a lack of detail about his own experiences on the islands or the factual history of the islands instead the author goes for a few anecdotes from locals which for me spoilt it somewhat. As a converted island lover I was hoping to get some inspiration to visit a few more islands that I am yet to see however none of the chapters particularly made me crave a visit.

In summery a nice written book that just lacked the x-factor I was so craving in a book about one of my favourite subjects. I guess for someone who knows nothing about the islands the author visits it may have enough detail but a little lacking for me.
Profile Image for Nick Davies.
1,739 reviews59 followers
March 28, 2025
This had an interesting premise - seeing the book in a charity shop it was a no-brainer whether to pick it up, I do like islands, I've been to or wanted to go to a few of the eleven featured in this, and do like a bit of history/sociology/biology like you get in this type of travel writing.

Alas though it was a slight disappointment. Partly not the fault of the writer - on second thoughts there isn't necessarily a lot of diversity about the island experience (especially because several of those chosen were off the north and west of Scotland) so it's a challenge to avoid repetition. I did however think that maybe more could have been done to explore differences between islands as opposed to taking what appeared to be a fairly standard approach of detailing what each is known for (a lot of which I already knew) and describing his visit and the people he met. I also found the overarching thread/inspiration of discussing Compton Mackenzie ('Whisky Galore', 'Monarch of the Glen') became a little tedious and a distraction from what I was interested in.

However, because of a number of interesting parts which were new to me (Alderney as a WW2 POW camp, stuff about Eigg and Rathlin Island) and a very thought-provoking section on South Ronaldsay and The Tomb of The Eagles (which I visited almost four decades ago - I was intrigued by the fact the family curating this archaeological site were obligated to basically repeat the same information day after day for decade after decade.. commitment), there was plenty that kept me reading and allowed me to get something from this.
Profile Image for Andy Weston.
3,198 reviews225 followers
March 4, 2021
I have very much enjoyed this, bit by bit, island by island, over the last couple of weeks. It has been ideal bedtime reading.
Everyone will have their favourite islands, and Barkham has done his best to please as many people as possible here.
I had particular interest in Barra, Eigg, Rathlin, and very much in St. Kilda. I already knew quite a bit about them, but have only (so far) visited Barra.
Barkham convinced me about Alderney and St Martin's (Sicily), but failed to do so with the last two 'party/rave' islands off the Essex coast..
330 reviews30 followers
December 4, 2017
How many times have you heard the expression ‘We are an island race’ This is of course true but how many of you actually know how many islands there are around Britain? The answer is a staggering 6,289 but not all are inhabited. For the nature writer Patrick Barkham who has been shortlisted for his books The Butterfly Isles and Badgerlands returns with Islander-A Journey Around our Archipelago were he island hops to discover how life really is and the natural history of the Islands that make up our wonderful country.

I have been lucky enough to island hop around our coastline while studying wildlife but here in this outstanding book Patrick Barkham visits some islands we may never get the chance to visit, such as South Ronaldsay, Eigg, St. Kilda, and also Rathlin among others. Along the way he talks about the ecology of the islands and culture as well as meeting the wildlife of the islands.

Anyone who has watch Whisky Galore will know the story was written by Sir Compton Mackenzie who loved islands so much he actually liked buying islands as well this may account for his love of isolation. Along the way Barkham meets the people of the islands who live and work on the islands. Some of the islands he visits can be described as remote. It can be a hard life and the weather extreme and some of the islands can easily be cut off for days or weeks at a time. Then of course there is the uniqueness of each of the islands and also the geo politics. The people work the land but they also have to run the islands as well.

Some of my favourite islands are those on the West Coast of Scotland and also the Scilly Islands. Life can be extreme to say the least but time spent on these islands changes you as a person. What really stands out for me is Barkham’s writing on natural history aspects of the islands and how species have developed away from the mainland.

I am keeping my fingers crossed that Patrick Barkham will make the longlist for the 2018 Wainwright Prize with this wonderful account of just a few of our islands dotted around Britain’s coastline.


368 Pages.
Profile Image for Jennifer.
1,899 reviews63 followers
May 13, 2020
I enjoyed tagging along with Patrick Barkham's island visits, he makes a pleasant peaceful interested but not obsessed companion and a kindly but clear-sighted observer. That said, one of the most entertaining bits of the book was his ghastly journey on the Scillonian ferry with his family (emetophobes avoid)

I felt a little too aware somehow that this is Barkham's job - his references to a previous book involving island visits, the 'hook' about Compton Mackenzie's 'nesomania' and a story based on him written by his notional but evidently slightly poisonous friend DH Lawrence.
Profile Image for Mark.
114 reviews17 followers
December 19, 2017
A decent journey through a variety of UK islands; Barkham's writing is gentle and descriptive. The chapters are only as interesting as the Islands themselves however, Islands that I thought going in would be really interesting, such as St Kilda, proved not to be - and vice versa.

All in all a good read, and i'll look out for more of Barkham's work.
Profile Image for Sluggable Joe.
136 reviews
February 11, 2018
Part voyage around lesser known british islands, part Compton Mackenzie biography.

Love the calm flow of the writing and the eager acceptance of the vast differences between the - always fascinating - people he meets.

Very informative throughout, even if some of the islands are particularly more boring than the others.
21 reviews
January 30, 2019
I enjoyed it, but it's probably a little niche for most people! Particularly enjoyed the stories about Compton Mackenzie; I hadn't come across him before.
154 reviews1 follower
July 29, 2021
For the most part this is a very readable and enjoyable account of visiting several islands around the British coastline. There are many perceptive insights into what living on and visiting islands can be like, and encounters with some fascinating people.

The tie-in to Compton Mackenzie gets a bit flimsy at times, I think I would have preferred it if Patrick had stuck loyally to islands Mackenzie had a connection with or just written the book as a straight tour or different British islands.

I felt the book tailed off a little and may have benefitted from being shorter. The chapter on Bardsey felt odd making no reference other than very indirectly to the bird observatory or its staff on an island with a reported population of six! The chapter on Osea felt a bit indulgent, using the author's influence to get a stay at somewhere the reader wouldn't be able to visit, and the final chapter on Ray didn't hit the spot for me as a finale and included some odd choices of metaphor (especially 'A swan flies heading up the creek, its neck wobbling like David Grey singing 'Babylon'').
Profile Image for Robert.
59 reviews5 followers
January 19, 2018
This is a monumental piece of work. The way Barkham manages to visit various islands and interweave relevant people, literature, history and his real-time experiences is a stoke of genius. This can not have been an easy task.

What makes this a four- rather than five-star book, though, is that some islands just are more interesting than others. For example, the Isle of Man is a low-tax paradise and near-enough country in itself with a rich history and proud people to match. Similarly, Alderney has a crazy backstory having been part of the Third Reich for five years and home to multiple concentration camps. The infrastructure the Nazis put in was then used for the benefit of the natives once they resettled it.

On the other hand, the chapters about more boring islands like Barra and Ynys Enlli simply don't provide the same excitement. But that shouldn't take away from the fact this book is a feat of genius and well worth reading, especially if you like islands.
Profile Image for T. Fowler.
Author 5 books21 followers
May 15, 2018
This book grew on me as I traveled with the author from one island to another, off the coast of Britain. The 11 islands are explored roughly in order of population, beginning with the Isle of Man (pop. 85,000) to the final and smallest, Ray Island off the coast of Essex (pop. 0). I must admit that I found the first two islands (Man and South Ronaldsay in Orkney) the least interesting and almost put the book aside. But the following islands, staring with Barra in the Outer Hebrides, completely captured me. They all have a fascinating history, which for many might even be described as bizarre, and he has done his homework on their histories well to explain their unusual pasts, as well as living long enough with present day locals to allow the reader know what life is like there today in these distinct societies. It helps a lot that he is an excellent travel writer, bringing out the thoughts and emotions that arise as he immerses himself in these small unique island communities.
222 reviews1 follower
July 7, 2019
The island bits and the island people were interesting. What ruined this book was the drivel about Compton MacKenzie and the "Man who Loved Islands". Who cares about some upperclass twat and his struggle to *buy* islands, when the islands and their people are much more fascinating on their own - and deserve to be shown independently with respect, instead of as a backdrop to the lives of the owning and ruling class. I get why the writer, presumably an upperclass twat, used this device to start and get the first draft out but it should have been edited out for print. Pointless blathering, which constantly kept distracting and interrupting the flow.

Also, this book really highlights how completely immoral, unethical and corrupt land ownership is in Britain. Not sure that was the writer's intention. There is no justification for some rando being in a position to sell and buy land other people have farmed and tended to for centuries without having any chance of owning it.
117 reviews1 follower
September 22, 2022
This book takes the reader on a tour of various small islands around the British isles, with wonderful and intricate descriptions of both the natural environment and the people and characters that Patrick Barkham (the author) meets along the way. The history of each island is fascinating, well researched but always brought alive by its telling. The whole book is linked together by frequent references to 'The Man who loved Islands' by D.H. Lawrence and Lawrence's inspiration for the book.

It is well worth a read and is a lovely accompaniment to 'Coastlines' by the same author, which I have also read and enjoyed.
Profile Image for Jdblair.
185 reviews
November 30, 2019
I enjoyed reading this visit to many of the islands around Great Britain. I would never have known about this book had it not been a recommendation of a good friend who is a student at Oxford University. It was fascinating and makes me want to read more about the featured islands. The author introduced me to Compton Mackenzie, Eric Linklater, Sabine Baring-Gould, and others who wrote about and experienced many of the islands introduced in this book. I would like to visit a few of these islands on our next trip to Great Britain.
2 reviews
January 21, 2024
A rare book that I didn’t finish.

I was very excited about this book as I have a fascination with British islands, particularly the more obscure ones. However, this book is more of a biography of Compton Mackenzie than it is information about the islands in question (despite not being advertised as such anywhere).

While the anecdotes are marginally interesting (and sometimes tangentially related to an island), there is sadly seldom of interest about islands, most of which have fascinating histories and culture.

It honestly does the islands a disservice.
Profile Image for Ruth Brumby.
949 reviews10 followers
October 12, 2017
I very much enjoyed reading this book for descriptive writing, interesting facts, a caring approach towards the world and people, warmth and honesty and some thought-provoking ideas. It is beautifully written and well constructed. I admire Patrick Barkham's journalistic ability to talk to people and represent their foibles and aspirations clearly but not harshly. His wide background reading adds interest.
I just think that some of the ideas could be tackled with more rigour.
Profile Image for Robert Newell.
87 reviews1 follower
March 20, 2023
An interesting exploration of islands around the UK with the islands history, but also with a view to its environmental and social aspects.

The author speaks to the local inhabitants in a way that fully describes how it feels to live on an island.

Some of the island stories are compared to the authors Compton Mackenzie and DH Lawrence. Especially Mackenzie’s love and issues he had on islands, maybe too much in some areas.

It would have been good to explore a few more islands.
Profile Image for Tiffany Kirkland.
152 reviews6 followers
February 6, 2020
I’m not typically a non-fiction reader, but Patrick Barkham weaves a wonderful story of past and present in this book. His observations of nature are absolutely enchanting, as are his keen readings of the personalities and particularities of the islands he visits. This book made me think, smile, and evaluate my own feelings about being an islander.
Profile Image for Bodil.
328 reviews
January 13, 2023
Barkham selects 11 of all the island around Britain, and tells us about his visits to them, their history, the people and wildlife he meets on them. He also tells us quite a lot about another island-lover, Compton Mckenzie (now mainly remembered for writing Whisky galore). It is a very interesting book and made at least me long to visit some of these islands!
294 reviews
January 7, 2024
Really excellent book. It captured my imagination in a way that hasn't happened for a long time, and I found myself repeatedly looking up how I could visit the various islands covered.
It was very good natured, not ripping on places, but also not totally sugarcoating everything
Full of interesting tangents and the sort of book that makes you add more books to your TBR pile
Profile Image for Kevin Burke.
Author 1 book1 follower
July 12, 2022
An interesting and well-written (to the extent that I can overlook the blurb on the back saying that Britain is composed of two main islands, which it clearly isn't...) ramble around some of the islands of Britain. The islands selected decrease in size from the Isle of Man to unpopulated private islands, but while some of the stories are island-specific - Alderney's World War II concentration camp experience, St Kilda's evacuation, Bardsey's saintly history - the stories also build up more a general image of small island life, of the struggles to generate an economy, to balance humans and wildlife, and to protect a sense of identity. Some of the smaller islands - such as Rathlin - have populations which have very little connection to 100 years ago, and yet the question is asked as to whether it's maybe better to now have a population that wants to live on the island rather than one that is there by accident of birth (something I felt on Sark)

Possibly the story of Compton Mackenzie - author of Monarch of the Glen and noted island-owner in the first half of the 20th century - intrudes too much into the narrative at times, though it does often work in helping provide a sense of island life then and now. A minor quibble in an engaging read.
43 reviews
July 17, 2023
I had high hopes for this book, having read ‘The Swimmer’, Barkham’s account of the life of Roger Deakin. But Islander fell short of my expectations. While the subject matter was interesting, the writing - for me - was dry and just a little dull
78 reviews
June 11, 2024
Very good and compelling read. Heavy on literary influences, in particular Compton Mackenzie who he is somewhat obsessed with. Interviews some interesting folk and captures the spirit of the islands he visits. Good mix of natural history and more human stories.
Profile Image for Rosamund.
888 reviews68 followers
February 6, 2018
Hugely enjoyed this exploration of a series of ever smaller islands around the British Isles. Realised I have a bit of island fascination myself.
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