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Soul of the Heel: A funny thing happened on the way to Puglia
There is an old Yiddish proverb that Scott and Jessica would have done well to heed. Mensch tracht, und Gott lacht. Man plans and God laughs. They thought that quitting their jobs, leaving a comfortable penthouse in Pittsburgh, saying good-bye to family, friends, and their mother tongue and moving to a little olive farm in Puglia, the “heel of the boot,” would be as easy as breaking a really expensive wine glass. And God laughed.
So begins The Soul of the Heel, the story of an American couple that dreamt of an idyllic life in Italy but found that getting there would require patience (little of which either of them had), perseverance (which they both had in abundance), and money (of which they barely had enough). At age fifty-eight, Scott felt bone-weary of the corporate life he had endured for over half of his years. He took a leap and suggested to his wife, Jessica who was twenty-three years his junior, that they consider leaving their lives behind and move to Italy. Their jobs were wearing them away much like a chisel wears away marble and they had been talking about how the next chapter in their lives would read. Jessica bought the idea of moving to Italy like it was on sale at Barney’s. They jumped on a plane to Puglia, a place they had never been, visited thirty-three properties in four days and picked one to be their new home. Like a raft on Class 5 rapids, events moved from there at high speed, sometimes out of control, and frequently encountering obstacles that threatened to dash their dream to splinters. Fortunately for them and their vision, they met Colleen and Francesco, owners of Real Estate Cisternino.
Colleen was born in Ireland and had lived in England, Canada and France before finally settling in Puglia. Francesco, on the other hand, had spent his entire life in the “heel.” Tall, blonde, and lissome, Colleen seemed to glide from one thing to another. Francesco’s staccato movement and tendency to freneticism was a stark contrast, as was his dark hair and matching complexion. But, in all ways important, they were of like mind and spirit. It was Colleen and Francesco who introduced Scott and Jessica to the property that they would call Villa Tutto and were the Virgil to their Dante, guiding them through the circles of Hell currently referred to as “Italian Immigration,” “the Italian banking system,” and virtually every other Italian institution. It was they who dedicated themselves to the goal of making sure that these naïve Americans, these two brave and silly souls, saw their dream of living in Puglia become a reality.
On the two-year journey from making the decision to move to Italy and Scott and Jessica’s first night together as residents of Cisternino, they encountered a cast of characters that taught them that Puglia is not just about delectable food, voluptuous wines, and astounding Michele, the rotund, ever-smiling contractor they hired to do the renovation they swore they would not undertake; Pierino, owner and executive chef of Il Cappriccio, a Cisternese icon who occasionally serves up porcupine for dinner; Roberto Angelini, one of Italy’s most erudite wine merchants; Pietro, the former owner of Villa Tutto who continues to believe that the place is still his; and, a parade of Italian bureaucrats hell-bent on preventing Scott and Jessica from fulfilling their dream of abiding blissfully in bel paese.
As the story of their quest to move to the heel of the boot unfolds, Scott and Jessica, with Colleen and Francesco at their side, take on the challenges set before them, one-by-one overcoming them until they are finally together at Villa Tutto beginning their version of la dolce vita.
So begins The Soul of the Heel, the story of an American couple that dreamt of an idyllic life in Italy but found that getting there would require patience (little of which either of them had), perseverance (which they both had in abundance), and money (of which they barely had enough). At age fifty-eight, Scott felt bone-weary of the corporate life he had endured for over half of his years. He took a leap and suggested to his wife, Jessica who was twenty-three years his junior, that they consider leaving their lives behind and move to Italy. Their jobs were wearing them away much like a chisel wears away marble and they had been talking about how the next chapter in their lives would read. Jessica bought the idea of moving to Italy like it was on sale at Barney’s. They jumped on a plane to Puglia, a place they had never been, visited thirty-three properties in four days and picked one to be their new home. Like a raft on Class 5 rapids, events moved from there at high speed, sometimes out of control, and frequently encountering obstacles that threatened to dash their dream to splinters. Fortunately for them and their vision, they met Colleen and Francesco, owners of Real Estate Cisternino.
Colleen was born in Ireland and had lived in England, Canada and France before finally settling in Puglia. Francesco, on the other hand, had spent his entire life in the “heel.” Tall, blonde, and lissome, Colleen seemed to glide from one thing to another. Francesco’s staccato movement and tendency to freneticism was a stark contrast, as was his dark hair and matching complexion. But, in all ways important, they were of like mind and spirit. It was Colleen and Francesco who introduced Scott and Jessica to the property that they would call Villa Tutto and were the Virgil to their Dante, guiding them through the circles of Hell currently referred to as “Italian Immigration,” “the Italian banking system,” and virtually every other Italian institution. It was they who dedicated themselves to the goal of making sure that these naïve Americans, these two brave and silly souls, saw their dream of living in Puglia become a reality.
On the two-year journey from making the decision to move to Italy and Scott and Jessica’s first night together as residents of Cisternino, they encountered a cast of characters that taught them that Puglia is not just about delectable food, voluptuous wines, and astounding Michele, the rotund, ever-smiling contractor they hired to do the renovation they swore they would not undertake; Pierino, owner and executive chef of Il Cappriccio, a Cisternese icon who occasionally serves up porcupine for dinner; Roberto Angelini, one of Italy’s most erudite wine merchants; Pietro, the former owner of Villa Tutto who continues to believe that the place is still his; and, a parade of Italian bureaucrats hell-bent on preventing Scott and Jessica from fulfilling their dream of abiding blissfully in bel paese.
As the story of their quest to move to the heel of the boot unfolds, Scott and Jessica, with Colleen and Francesco at their side, take on the challenges set before them, one-by-one overcoming them until they are finally together at Villa Tutto beginning their version of la dolce vita.
- GenresNonfiction
290 pages, Kindle Edition
Published April 28, 2017
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Displaying 1 - 9 of 9 reviews
April 12, 2019
Fun and informative read
enjoyed every drop of the trails, tribulations and delicious descriptions of food. I believe the author is subdued with his humor. Funny as he is Im sure there is even more wit that could keep us laughing. Thank you
enjoyed every drop of the trails, tribulations and delicious descriptions of food. I believe the author is subdued with his humor. Funny as he is Im sure there is even more wit that could keep us laughing. Thank you
October 16, 2019
Great book
I really enjoyed this book. All the hassles of getting paper work done and the remodeling of their future home kept the book exciting. You would think that some of theses government workers enjoy making people work hard to get simple paperwork done. I'm glad it all worked out and wish there was a follow up story but I guess that may be for the later future after a few years of living there. I would look forward to a book if he so writes another about their life in Italy.
I really enjoyed this book. All the hassles of getting paper work done and the remodeling of their future home kept the book exciting. You would think that some of theses government workers enjoy making people work hard to get simple paperwork done. I'm glad it all worked out and wish there was a follow up story but I guess that may be for the later future after a few years of living there. I would look forward to a book if he so writes another about their life in Italy.
December 29, 2025
I would have given it one star but upgraded it to two because that would have been due to my expectations of what the book would be like. I was expecting a glimpse into the soul of Puglia and its people. What I got instead was an account of Puglia from a very entitled point of view with pages devoted to logistical details.
The epilogue was my favorite part.
The epilogue was my favorite part.
October 18, 2019
Great!
Great read. I vicariously followed you and Jessica on your journeys and brave move. You had me waking up extra early to see what new ring the Italian bureaucracy had you jumping through. In bocca al lupo.
Great read. I vicariously followed you and Jessica on your journeys and brave move. You had me waking up extra early to see what new ring the Italian bureaucracy had you jumping through. In bocca al lupo.
March 16, 2022
Extremely sweet and nice and makes you want to cherish your partner and all they do for you. Read it years ago and still think about it from time to time and will probably flip though it again soon. I'm sure others have reviewed it better, so I will say no more.
September 15, 2017
Wonderful story
The author gives a frank recounting of the track he followed to achieve a retirement in Italy. Hilarious at times, fast read and hard to put down.
The author gives a frank recounting of the track he followed to achieve a retirement in Italy. Hilarious at times, fast read and hard to put down.
October 8, 2019
I loved it! My husband and I are on our second extended trip to Italy and are thinking of buying a home here, so I can completely relate to this book.
May 4, 2020
Funny and inspiring.
A must read if you're planning on retiring in Italy.
Get out the highlighter and fear not!
A must read if you're planning on retiring in Italy.
Get out the highlighter and fear not!
July 4, 2025
I read (listened) this in anticipation of a trip to Puglia in November, 2025. It certainly was fun to imagine myself in this region of Italy as he described the land, people, food and wine.
Displaying 1 - 9 of 9 reviews