I received this book as a digital advance copy from NetGalley in exchange for an honest review.
I don’t necessarily have a love affair with rum or rum cocktails, especially after an ill-fated evening of mojitos at a dinner party at my house almost a decade ago. However, I am always generally curious to learn more about the spirits that I stock in my cabinet, so I thought that Rum Curious would be an interesting read. Without looking into my liquor cabinet, I’m pretty sure that I have a bottle of Don Q silver rum, Sailor Jerry spiced rum, and Goslings Black Seal rum hiding in there. Aside from making a mean Dark and Stormy while in Bermuda, I definitely have to rely on recipes when it comes to mixing rum cocktails.
As stated in his Introduction, the author’s intent is to help consumers make wise rum purchasing decisions by delivering a rum guide “with a touch of history, production information, cogent tasting notes, scores, and classic and contemporary cocktails.” He hopes to educate consumers as well as provide recipes for cocktails that will be fun to make at home.
After the introductory material, the book is basically divided into two parts – About Rum and Tasting Rum – that are followed by two appendices – Distillery Production Notes and Rum Resources.
About Rum begins with a short history of rum, including the history of the sugarcane, the most notable early discovery of which was recorded by one of Alexander the Great’s admirals in 325 BCE. The earliest known spirit distillation using sugarcane was in Brazil in the 1500s; however, the spirit distilled from molasses did not begin until the 1650s. The somewhat academic feeling text traces the influence of rum on United States history, as well as the influence of the popularity of American whiskey and the sugar beet on rum trade. The section continues with a discussion of the production of rum, which begins again with the sugarcane and ends with a discussion of the controversy over adding sweeteners to the rum at some point after distillation. A discussion of Rules and Regulations concludes the section by providing an overview of rum regulations that exist at all levels of government from the United Nations to each individual Caribbean island and by listing regulated terms for style. The master distiller of Foursquare, the master blender of Appleton Estates, and the founders of Richland Rum are heavily cited and quoted throughout the About Rum section, leaving an impression of bias in the author’s writing. Throughout this part of the book are pink call-out boxes with additional information or recipes to supplement the text.
Tasting Rum is composed of five sections: unaged rums, aged rums, flavored rums, other cane spirits, and cocktails. The author asserts that tasting rum is different than tasting whiskey or brandy; the color matters little to the quality of the rum, and what is important is smell, taste, and finish. According to the author, “[w]hen sampling rum, the nose does not lie … rum’s taste tends to follow the aroma it initially presents.” After a brief overview on tasting rum, the author scores a wide variety of rums in his four categories on a scale of 100 (where 59 and below is not recommended) and then offers some cocktail recipes. There are approximately 40 pages of rum ratings, and 15 pages of cocktail recipes. In each rum chapter, the rum is clearly identified, along with its percentage alcohol by volume and point of origin. The rums are presented in alphabetical order. The author describes the aroma and the palate of the rum, assigns it a score, and advises on how to drink the rum. There is absolutely no information about the objective criteria that the author used to come up with his score, so the scores seem rather whimsical. Oddly, the author is a fan of recommending rums be mixed into Old Fashioned and replace whiskey in other drinks. With respect to the unaged rums that are typically mixed in cocktails, the author is looking for flavor, but is also basing his scores in this category on their mixability and sipping merits. For aged rums, the author is looking for flavor that is not derived from additives and bases his scores more on sipping merit. Cigar pairing recommendations are offered for aged rums that score over 90 on his scale. With respect to flavored rums, the author is looking for a nonchemical taste and sipping quality. The cocktail recipes list the ingredients and the method, and sometimes the tools, the glassware, the topping, and the garnish. They range from the Classic Daiquiri in the Easy to Make Cocktails section to the Vinho Carousel in the Pro Level Rum Cocktails section. The Easy to Make Cocktails definitely seem familiar and possible with my liquor cabinet, but the Pro Level Rum Cocktails do not. The latter seem to each require either some type of foam or whipped cream or special sugar syrup that is made in such volume that is impractical for preparing one cocktail at a time.
The Distillery Production Notes are notes gathered from the distilleries themselves, sources within the organizations, and previously published material that might suggest a particular brand’s flavor profile. For each distillery, the notes might include the location, water source, source material, distillation, off-the-still proof, barrel-entry proof, maturation, filtration, color added, sugar added, flavoring, and cold stabiliztion. The notes for Appleton Estates includes almost all of these factors, while the notes for Bacardi and Don Q includes only location and off-the-still proof. The distilleries profiled range from the esoteric Phraya in Thailand and Montanya in Colorado to household names like Mount Gay and Goslings. The Rum Resources is approximately one page of web resources and another half page of print resources to learn more about rum. There are no resources for ordering rum online or finding rum in stores …
The artwork in the book is a combination of author photography of locations, rums, and cocktails; stock photography; and historical images. The artwork adds a richness to the book.
I don’t think I will add this book to my already extensive culinary library because the bulk of the book was composed of the rum ratings. I am not so into rum that I would refuse Goslings Black Seal in my Dark and Stormy or Sailor Jerry in my Hurricane. I am still working on the differences between Islay Scotches, so the differences between different aged rums seems too subtle to me. However, I would recommend this book for anyone who is serious about their rums because the rum ratings do span a wide variety of brands from a wide variety of countries.