Many Westerners think that One Thousand and One Nights is a classic of Arabic literature, but the truth is that until its popularization in the West, it was largely unknown in the East. Poetry, not prose, has been the queen of Arabic literature. What we call non-fiction was largely the domain of the coffee shop (for men) and coffee/tea get-togethers among women at home. The "story-teller" (Hakawati, in Arabic; also the title of a 2009 novel by Rabih Alameddin) was a performance artist, an entertainer.
Rafik Schami, the author of The Calligrapher's Secret keeps alive the now dying oral tradition created by the Hakawati, but in print. Schami (whose surname means "Damascene")was born in Damascus in 1946, a Christian, and since 1970 has lived in Germany, where he has become a successful author of children's books written in German.
On the surface,The Calligrapher's Secret is made up of a delightful and lively assortment of characters, whose interactions, told in a collection of shaggy-dog stories that ultimately resolve themselves. Schami's Damascus is that of the 1940s and 1950s, still in the wake of the Ottoman Empire and subsequent French Mandate, where Muslims, Christians, and Jews lived in a relative harmony (for the Ottoman dealt harshly with those who disturbed social tranquility) that seethed with prejudice beneath the surface. Politically, Syria was struggling to find itself politically, between democracy and strong-man dictators (which, sadly, it is still doing).
The sub-plot is the obsessive love of a calligrapher, Hamid Farsi. for the Arabic alphabet. Schami has gathered much history and lore about Arabic calligraphy, which is the supreme plastic art-form in the Islamic world, and woven it into the plot.
(As one who studied Arabic for over 40 years, I understood (as best as possible) Hamid's obsession, and I marveled over how well Schami captured quintessence of Arabic calligraphy.)
But the book's final chapter, which recounts Hamid downfall, is perhaps the books raison d'être. It is a trenchant and not-so-veiled criticism of Syrian society's mores and politics, one that is set in the 1950s, but is especially applicable today.
Schami wrote this gem in German, rather than his native tongue, for a Christian writing such a book in Arabic, in which many sacred cows are gored, would arose the ire of Islamic fundamentalists perhaps not seen since Salman Rushdie.
It is a four hundred plus page book, with shaggy dog stories throughout - which have led some reader/reviewers to abandon it. My advice is, if you enjoy colorful vignettes of the vagaries of daily life, you might come away as enchanted as I.