Easy to Digest
Sidney Mintz had long been an expert on the history of sugar and its role in Western history (slavery, colonialism, capitalism, cultural mixing) when he published this book in 1996. It is a clear and most easily read book of anthropology dealing with food and food habits over time. Although his general topic is 'Food', his prior interests can't help influencing his direction towards sugar and sweetness. For example, one chapter is devoted to the contrasting stories of honey and sugar, a contest overwhelmingly won by sugar as European powers established colonies in the West Indies and elsewhere devoted to growing sugar cane. In another short chapter, Mintz ponders the two contrasting desires in Western culture (and maybe in others too), that is, the wish to live in and see around us "pure" nature, unspoiled and unsullied. Food from such environments is seen as better. There are whole supermarket chains devoted to bringing you such food. On the other hand, everyone likes comfort, ease, and safety. People see science as providing such things. They tend to follow "scientific" advice. But, as the author points out, these two desires are often contradictory. He cloaks these views with a history of marzipan! A long essay asks if there is any such thing as American cuisine. Mintz argues that regional cuisines are the only real cuisines----take French, Italian, Chinese or Indian cuisines----is there really a "national" cuisine in any of these well-known cases? He says no, cuisine being based on local food supplies and traditions of cooking. He condemns the American habit of seizing on any local food, turning it into a fad, but on the way totally changing it from its original form in the interest of packaging, storage, and quick sales. There are many other interesting observations and stories to be found, though a few of his ideas may not prove very long lasting.
I really enjoyed reading this book which is at once thought-provoking and entertaining. If history and anthropology are at all interesting to you, I suggest reading TASTING FOOD, TASTING FREEDOM.