In 1969 John McPhee took his wife and four young daughters from Princeton, New Jersey, to the island of Colonsay, ancestral home of the McPhee clan, twenty-five miles off the west coast of Scotland. Eight miles long and three wide, it was home to 138 people. The entire island was owned by the laird, Donald Howard, the 4th Baron Strathcona and Mount Royal who was responsible for upkeep of the island in return for the payment of rents and service from the tenants. It was a strange medieval holdover, a bit of feudal history lingering into the present.
Life on Colonsay was circumscribed by its economic system, and the population fell as young people moved away to the mainland in search of jobs and opportunities. Twenty years previously the population had been 250, and in the distant past it seems to have supported a thousand people along with a monastery. After McPhee’s visit the population continued to drop, to a low of around 100, but in recent decades it has recovered a bit and is now close to the same level as it was when he visited. I searched the internet for more information, but could not find whether the feudal system still exists; I found references to a modern land reform act but nothing tying it to Colonsay.
Most of the people lived by sheep herding or farming. There were a few large farms, but most of the allotments were crofts, plots of forty acres or less. Surprisingly, there was no maritime industry, no one working at fishing or lobstering. There was one small store with an attached pub, a one-room school, a doctor, a postman, and a dockmaster, and that was about it.
The island was a money losing proposition for the laird, whose family got rich building railroads in Canada. The laird lived most of the year in Bath, England, and only visited the island during the summer. When McPhee spoke with him he had an interesting, but perhaps not surprising, perspective. The rents collected were low, and could not be raised because the inhabitants were barely surviving as it was. The laird reduced expenses by laying off workers at his estate, and reducing free services such as electricity, but the income still did not meet the outlay, particularly since he, as landlord, was responsible for maintaining the roads, fences, and dwellings. He said that the tenants would do nothing for themselves, and then complain about the delays it took the laird’s agent to fix things.
The lives of the people were not easy, barely rising to the subsistence level, but they loved the land and supported each other, and hated losing their children to better opportunities on the mainland. Once children left they returned only for brief visits.
This book is not sociology, it is story-telling, and McPhee is a fine story teller. The people he profiles come alive with their own personalities, their struggles and their lives. Many of them can trace their families back generations on the island, to the days before the power of the clans was destroyed at Culloden in 1746. History, geography, and weather are woven into the narrative, the history going all the way back to the Neolithic age, as revealed in excavations of the middens, up through the time of the Vikings, and into the modern era. The ancient myths are also recounted, of mer-people and monsters, and heroic deeds. Put together, all these threads help to create a story of a place and time, of the present being just the near end of a past that reaches back through time out of mind, binding people and beliefs to the lands and to one another. McPhee tells a fine story in a book that is is barely 150 pages long, and it was a pleasure to read.