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Tasting the Past: The Science of Flavor and the Search for the Origins of Wine
A chance encounter with an obscure vintage made near Jerusalem leads journalist Kevin Begos to seek the origins of wine. What he discovers is a whole world of forgotten grapes, each with distinctive tastes and aromas, as well as the archaeologists, chemists, and botanists who are deciphering wine down to molecules of flavor. The characters in The World in a Glass of Wine include a young Swiss scientist who set out to decode the DNA of every single wine grape in the world; Middle Eastern researchers who seek to discover the wines that King David drank; and a University of Pennsylvania academic who has spent decades analyzing wine remains. The science illuminates wine in ways no critic can, and demolishes some of the most sacred dogmas of the industry: well-known French grapes aren’t especially noble.
This alternative history starts in the Caucasus Mountains, where wine was domesticated 8,000 years ago. Then we travel with Begos along the original wine routes—down to Israel and across the Mediterranean to Greece, Italy, France, and finally to America, where California and Vermont vineyards are creating new wines by letting native and European grapes breed together—it’s a literal melting pot of new tastes and possibilities. As he samples these wines, Begos offers readers tasting suggestions that go far beyond the endless bottles of Chardonnay and Merlot found in most stores and restaurants.
From this combination of journalism, history, science, and adventure travel, readers will learn the multicultural roots of wine while enjoying a full-bodied story with a rich, nutty bouquet and plenty of subtle nuances that will linger.
This alternative history starts in the Caucasus Mountains, where wine was domesticated 8,000 years ago. Then we travel with Begos along the original wine routes—down to Israel and across the Mediterranean to Greece, Italy, France, and finally to America, where California and Vermont vineyards are creating new wines by letting native and European grapes breed together—it’s a literal melting pot of new tastes and possibilities. As he samples these wines, Begos offers readers tasting suggestions that go far beyond the endless bottles of Chardonnay and Merlot found in most stores and restaurants.
From this combination of journalism, history, science, and adventure travel, readers will learn the multicultural roots of wine while enjoying a full-bodied story with a rich, nutty bouquet and plenty of subtle nuances that will linger.
277 pages, Hardcover
First published June 12, 2018
104 people are currently reading
2532 people want to read
About the author
Kevin Begos
2 books45 followersI write about wine, energy, science, the environment, and everyday people.
I’ve been a Knight Science Journalism Fellow at MIT and was a Correspondent for The Associated Press.
My work has been published in A Field Guide for Science Writers, Scientific American, The New York Times, The Washington Post, MSNBC, The Christian Science Monitor, Tablet, and many newspapers.
I have won awards from Investigative Reporters and Editors, Washington Monthly, The Newspaper Guild of America, Associated Press Managing Editors, and the Society of Professional Journalists.
I’ve been a Knight Science Journalism Fellow at MIT and was a Correspondent for The Associated Press.
My work has been published in A Field Guide for Science Writers, Scientific American, The New York Times, The Washington Post, MSNBC, The Christian Science Monitor, Tablet, and many newspapers.
I have won awards from Investigative Reporters and Editors, Washington Monthly, The Newspaper Guild of America, Associated Press Managing Editors, and the Society of Professional Journalists.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 61 reviews
June 12, 2018
Think you know all there is to know wine? Think again.
Kevin Begos is a world-traveling journalist who set out to discover the science and origins of wine. You’ll meet the scientist whose goal is to map the DNA of every grape variety known (and a few unknown). You’ll sit on Begos’ broad shoulders as he unravels one wine myth after another.
It’s part historical dig (get your archeology hat on), part science (who knew DNA was sexy), part mythology (you mean Greece didn’t invent wine?) yet 100% entertaining. As a wine connoisseur for more than twenty-six years, I thought I knew where wine originated. I was shocked by Begos’ findings and am now on the hunt for wines from that region. My wine bucket list just got bigger.
If you’re a wine lover and/or love history, you’ll love this book. I couldn’t put it down and neither will you.
Disclaimer: I received an ARC from Algonquin Books via Netgalley in the hopes I’d review it.
My Rating: 5 stars
This review first appeared: https://www.nnlightsbookheaven.com/si...
Kevin Begos is a world-traveling journalist who set out to discover the science and origins of wine. You’ll meet the scientist whose goal is to map the DNA of every grape variety known (and a few unknown). You’ll sit on Begos’ broad shoulders as he unravels one wine myth after another.
It’s part historical dig (get your archeology hat on), part science (who knew DNA was sexy), part mythology (you mean Greece didn’t invent wine?) yet 100% entertaining. As a wine connoisseur for more than twenty-six years, I thought I knew where wine originated. I was shocked by Begos’ findings and am now on the hunt for wines from that region. My wine bucket list just got bigger.
If you’re a wine lover and/or love history, you’ll love this book. I couldn’t put it down and neither will you.
Disclaimer: I received an ARC from Algonquin Books via Netgalley in the hopes I’d review it.
My Rating: 5 stars
This review first appeared: https://www.nnlightsbookheaven.com/si...
March 27, 2019
This book was not what I expected, it was like listening to some guy brag about his travels and tasting wine, but won’t stop talking. Very few interesting points.
August 3, 2019
This is one of the best books I have read all summer. The premise is simple, international reporter is stuck in a hotel room in Amman and decides to try a small bottle of red wine in the mini bar. Not expecting much, he is floored. The red lifts him to the heavens. This is back in the days before the Internet was quite like now... so he struggles with his memory. "Was it really that good?" "Did I imagine the whole thing?" Back home, he is unable to get it out of his mind... like my mom, who has a happy memory of her grandfather's ragu, she can explain it and talk about her feelings eating it as a child, but it remains an elusive memory since she is unable --so far--to replicate it. Begos, tries to pinpoint the wine and his tarvels lead him back to the middle east to a winery run by Palestinian monks (Remember, many Palestinians are Christian). Apparently, an Italian had gotten involved at the monastery/winery not long ago, partly explaining its fine results.
Begos discovers that there is an entire universe of grape varietals that we simply never drink. The red Baladi grape, as well as the Hamdani, Jandali, and Dabouki white ...
It's very sad to learn about the way the wine industry (spit! spit!) has prioritized certain grapes so as to manage the market ensuring the best results for smallest costs. This sounds like a good thing, except that prioritizing certain breeds will not only ruin and kill diversity but could be dangerous because in the arms race with pathogens, it’s really only a matter of time before disaster (like Irish potato famine) if we just keep using the same genetic material we are doomed. We hear this again and again in wine books. It is something that is happening to food in general--unintended consequences from industrial farming, destroying diversity and necessitating the use of more and more procedures to overcome issues, including more and more chemicals.
From the humble baladi grape of Bethlehem, Begos ends up traveling widely from Georgia and Turkey to Switzerland and Austria...he is in search of rare grapes. As if I didn't love this book enough, in one of the latter chapters he ends up in Sicily where he spends time with my own favorite wine maker, Arianna Occhipinti talking about natural wines.
His chapter on the amphora wines of Georgia is very moving--and all in all this is a fascinating book by a charming writer. I loved this book!
Begos discovers that there is an entire universe of grape varietals that we simply never drink. The red Baladi grape, as well as the Hamdani, Jandali, and Dabouki white ...
It's very sad to learn about the way the wine industry (spit! spit!) has prioritized certain grapes so as to manage the market ensuring the best results for smallest costs. This sounds like a good thing, except that prioritizing certain breeds will not only ruin and kill diversity but could be dangerous because in the arms race with pathogens, it’s really only a matter of time before disaster (like Irish potato famine) if we just keep using the same genetic material we are doomed. We hear this again and again in wine books. It is something that is happening to food in general--unintended consequences from industrial farming, destroying diversity and necessitating the use of more and more procedures to overcome issues, including more and more chemicals.
From the humble baladi grape of Bethlehem, Begos ends up traveling widely from Georgia and Turkey to Switzerland and Austria...he is in search of rare grapes. As if I didn't love this book enough, in one of the latter chapters he ends up in Sicily where he spends time with my own favorite wine maker, Arianna Occhipinti talking about natural wines.
His chapter on the amphora wines of Georgia is very moving--and all in all this is a fascinating book by a charming writer. I loved this book!
March 23, 2018
Full disclose, I received this as an ARC from my workplace.
I enjoyed this book quite a lot. Some of the author’s stories went a bit long and wandered and would have benefited from tighter editing but overall it was engaging and interesting. It definitely grabbed my interest in branching out and tasting lesser known wines from lesser known regions. I will be going back through the wine lists at the end of each chapter and making a list to talk with my local wine store.
If you are feeling bored with the standard Chardonnay and Cabernet this book will broaden your horizons.
I enjoyed this book quite a lot. Some of the author’s stories went a bit long and wandered and would have benefited from tighter editing but overall it was engaging and interesting. It definitely grabbed my interest in branching out and tasting lesser known wines from lesser known regions. I will be going back through the wine lists at the end of each chapter and making a list to talk with my local wine store.
If you are feeling bored with the standard Chardonnay and Cabernet this book will broaden your horizons.
October 18, 2018
zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.....
July 15, 2018
I received a copy of this book from Algonquin Books and NetGalley in exchange for a review.
It is now common knowledge that Meghan Markle, the Duchess of Sussex, had a sip of a bottle of Tignanello wine, which was an "a-ha" moment that set the groundwork for her former lifestyle blog, The Tig. In author Kevin Begos' case, he had a sip of obsure wine that was produced in Bethlehem in a hotel room in Jordan, which lead to this investigation about the origins of wine. Discussing findings from experts ranging from archaeologists to chemists, this informative book is an eye-opening look behind the science and history of wine. You'll learn why certain wines are more popular than others, will be provided a list of lesser-known wines to drink when you want to mix up your normal routine, among many, many other things. The writing is not preachy and is very accessible, the exact opposite of reading a textbook.
If you're interested in learning or expanding your knowledge on wine, this is a good book to read. And who knows, the book and its recommendations might lead to a great idea.
It is now common knowledge that Meghan Markle, the Duchess of Sussex, had a sip of a bottle of Tignanello wine, which was an "a-ha" moment that set the groundwork for her former lifestyle blog, The Tig. In author Kevin Begos' case, he had a sip of obsure wine that was produced in Bethlehem in a hotel room in Jordan, which lead to this investigation about the origins of wine. Discussing findings from experts ranging from archaeologists to chemists, this informative book is an eye-opening look behind the science and history of wine. You'll learn why certain wines are more popular than others, will be provided a list of lesser-known wines to drink when you want to mix up your normal routine, among many, many other things. The writing is not preachy and is very accessible, the exact opposite of reading a textbook.
If you're interested in learning or expanding your knowledge on wine, this is a good book to read. And who knows, the book and its recommendations might lead to a great idea.
April 1, 2023
Really interesting subject, but each chapter had the same structure and felt repetitive
April 2, 2019
I'm generally suspicious of first person accounts masquerading as "hard" non-fiction reality. Where one expects a serious presentation of facts, figures and background, the usual substitute is a series of opinions and impressions, often of little or no provable value. And Begos is, at first, that suspect first person narrator. However, he keeps himself in the game throughout, never opting out but digging even deeper into the subject of the origins of wine and the increasingly lost diversity of wine grape varieties. He engages the right people (Patrick McGovern, José Vouillamoz and others) and combines it with ongoing real experiences backed by intelligent commentary and observation. While the book is somewhat light on the science of flavor he does pursue the search for the origins of wine, effectively dismissing the specious concept of "noble" grapes and their superiority. An excellent read for anyone who questions the past and future of what we pour into our glasses.
July 21, 2021
Here’s what this book is about: The characters in Tasting the Past include a young Swiss scientist who set out to decode the DNA of every single wine grape in the world; Middle Eastern researchers who seek to discover the wines that King David drank; and a University of Pennsylvania academic who has spent decades analyzing wine remains. The science illuminates wine in ways no critic can, and demolishes some of the most sacred dogmas of the industry: well-known French grapes aren't especially noble.
We travel with Begos along the original wine routes - starting in the Caucasus Mountains, where wine was domesticated 8,000 years ago, down to Israel and across the Mediterranean to Greece, Italy, and France, and finally to America, where California and Vermont vineyards are creating new wines by letting native and European grapes breed together. It's a melting pot of new tastes and possibilities. As he samples these wines, Begos offers listeners tasting suggestions that go far beyond the endless bottles of Chardonnay and Merlot found in most stores and restaurants.”
I won a physical copy of this book from a Goodreads giveaway in 2018 but I decided to listen to it on audio. I thought this book was very interesting. I feel like I learned something. I like that there was a list of different wines to try at the end of every chapter but this book wasn’t what I expected. I wasn’t expecting this book to be written like a travelogue where the author was going to different places and tasting wine. I didn’t like the travelogue aspect of this book but I liked the parts of the book that were more focused on wine and how it was made as well as the history of wine and the different flavors of wine.
We travel with Begos along the original wine routes - starting in the Caucasus Mountains, where wine was domesticated 8,000 years ago, down to Israel and across the Mediterranean to Greece, Italy, and France, and finally to America, where California and Vermont vineyards are creating new wines by letting native and European grapes breed together. It's a melting pot of new tastes and possibilities. As he samples these wines, Begos offers listeners tasting suggestions that go far beyond the endless bottles of Chardonnay and Merlot found in most stores and restaurants.”
I won a physical copy of this book from a Goodreads giveaway in 2018 but I decided to listen to it on audio. I thought this book was very interesting. I feel like I learned something. I like that there was a list of different wines to try at the end of every chapter but this book wasn’t what I expected. I wasn’t expecting this book to be written like a travelogue where the author was going to different places and tasting wine. I didn’t like the travelogue aspect of this book but I liked the parts of the book that were more focused on wine and how it was made as well as the history of wine and the different flavors of wine.
August 12, 2019
Interesting topic but not very well-written (in the sense that it's haphazardly organized - not that he can't craft a sentence). The basic point though (which is helpful) is that there's a revival of old and largely forgotten wines happening right now. He specifically notes that certain areas - Greece, Israel, Georgia (the Caucacus one), etc. - all had a very long tradition of growing indigenous wines. These regions basically abandoned them in the place of the more famous French wines (Cab, Merlot, Pinot Noir, etc.). The French grapes though didn't evolve to be raised there - these regions had their own unique grapes that fit the climate/soil better than the French transplants. He also gets into organic wine and replacing barrels with more traditional clay, etc.
So it's useful as a guide to try to new wines beyond the bigger ones everyone knows (Greece in particular has a lot to offer). But... the organization and writing seems like he threw it together pretty quickly. So it's fine for what it is, but it definitely could have been better.
So it's useful as a guide to try to new wines beyond the bigger ones everyone knows (Greece in particular has a lot to offer). But... the organization and writing seems like he threw it together pretty quickly. So it's fine for what it is, but it definitely could have been better.
August 10, 2018
This book is infuriating. Not because it’s a bad subject, because it’s not, nor because it’s badly written. It infuriates me because I can’t taste a majority of the wines described within this book’s pages. A primary look into the native varieties of grapes and the history of winemaking across the Fertile Crescent and Europe, this book explores some of the most rare and infrequently bottle wine-grape varieties in the world. Even as a professional somm, I cannot get most of the varietals mentioned in this book, and hopefully, the wine world is changing over the next few years, so that I might be able to procure these bottles for myself and my restaurant.
Until that time, however, I will live vicariously through Mr. Begos’ beautifully written book, one that reads as though it came from a person who truly loves and appreciates wine’s place in our past, present, and future.
Until that time, however, I will live vicariously through Mr. Begos’ beautifully written book, one that reads as though it came from a person who truly loves and appreciates wine’s place in our past, present, and future.
May 5, 2018
This is a very interesting premise for a book on wine. The author set out on a ten-year journey to discover the origins of wine with some varieties of grapes going back thousands of years. This book is part history, part science, part travelogue, part buyers list. I particularly like that the author includes "tastings" at the end of some chapters providing information on where these more obscure wines can be found in the U.S. It will be fun to try wines other than the dozen or so that are currently popular. I think this book would make a unique gift for any adventurous wine lover.
I received this book for free through Goodreads First Reads.
I received this book for free through Goodreads First Reads.
August 1, 2018
I received a copy of this in a Goodreads giveaway and it has not affected my review.
This is a charming book that takes you along for an adventure. I loved how there was an underlying story, as the book opens with a mysterious wine and the author's search to rediscover that wine drives the rest of the action. It feels a little more like a memoir than the science-y book the subtitle implies, but I liked that about it. There are so many fascinating places visited, and it's particularly nice that each chapter ends with details on some of the standout wines described and details on where to find it. Entertaining and educational for anyone who enjoys travel, history, or (of course) wine!
This is a charming book that takes you along for an adventure. I loved how there was an underlying story, as the book opens with a mysterious wine and the author's search to rediscover that wine drives the rest of the action. It feels a little more like a memoir than the science-y book the subtitle implies, but I liked that about it. There are so many fascinating places visited, and it's particularly nice that each chapter ends with details on some of the standout wines described and details on where to find it. Entertaining and educational for anyone who enjoys travel, history, or (of course) wine!
November 3, 2020
What a delightful, engaging book! You don't have to be an oenophile to enjoy trekking along with Kevin Begos as his journey takes him from the Caucusus, around the Mediterranean, up the Alps, and finally through the Pacific northwest, all in search of the world's most ancient vines, wines and winemaking techniques. There's so much fascinating and arcane knowledge packed into this book, but it never feels dull or pedantic. As a journalist, Begos knows how to craft a story that will keep readers interested until the end. Even a casual wine drinker like myself can't wait to go try some of the obscure and wonderful wines he talks about.
December 29, 2019
An interesting, if somewhat scattered, personal quest to find somewhat obscure grapes and wine. The title seems a bit misleading. It is a convincing appeal for wine lovers to seek out lesser-known varieties than the usual Chardonnay, Cab Sauv, Merlot, Riesling, etc. Also, to do so, to try wines from lesser-known countries and regions, like Georgia, Moldova, Israel, Cyprus and more. Worth a read for wine fans, and more accessible that Patrick McGovern's more academic archeological tome ""Ancient Wine".
January 20, 2020
I really wanted to like this book. Sadly, I found it disengaging and lacking in sufficient details or conclusions. If the expansion of ideas or scientific findings had been explored in more detail it might have been more interesting. But the author's prose was very difficult for me to wade through and came across as almost petulant, and I was left with the sad feeling that the author was crying for attention. The best parts were quotes from other sources or from the people he interviewed. It lacked cohesiveness, direction, and purpose.
March 19, 2020
A really nice “wine encounter” book, with short chapters about specific wines that are unusual and lot about wine history and the back ground of specific wine areas. I found fascinating the idea that our love for French “noble grapes” like Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay may actually be setting us up for a biological crop crisis similar to the potato famine, as people pull up indigenous grapes in an area like Greece and replant with cloned (not from seed) French grapes. Makes you think.
May 31, 2018
The book is a wine aficionado's travels, 'interviews' and tastings as he tries to find why a certain wine he had in the Middle East tasted different from when he first had it. The copy I have is an ARC rather than the finished product, perhaps the finished product will be a bit better, like a good wine. The author provides interesting tidbits of history as he recounts his travels to vineyards and cities. It is an enjoyable read, perhaps a good Father's Day present if it is released in time.
January 8, 2020
Fascinating and well-written description of Begos's journey to locations around the world in search of obscure wine grapes and winemaking techniques. Begos compares the rise of heirloom tomatoes and apples with what he expects to happen in wine. All of this is augmented by a very admirable discussion of the science of biology, ecology, and other related fields, and how these are shaping the new wine culture.
February 13, 2020
I enjoyed the book immensely. It reminds me that the exploration wine, even over a large portion of my life, is a never ending journey. There is always so much to learn. Just when I start to get cocky and think I know a lot about wine, a book like this reminds me that I don’t know much. I have an entirely new rabbit hole to go down now looking for native, original, and regional grapes to taste and learn about.
April 4, 2023
Our March book club pick & our first non fiction book this year. #Cheersto3023
I found most of this book incredibly fascinating and a small portion of it incredibly boring LOL. But mostly I felt it was. Many pages have passage's highlighted, other books to read noted, wines to try noted.
A lot of history with a little bit of mystery. Science vs tradition, subconscious vs thoughtful.
In pursuit of the vines, romancing the grape....
I found most of this book incredibly fascinating and a small portion of it incredibly boring LOL. But mostly I felt it was. Many pages have passage's highlighted, other books to read noted, wines to try noted.
A lot of history with a little bit of mystery. Science vs tradition, subconscious vs thoughtful.
In pursuit of the vines, romancing the grape....
September 11, 2023
My sister had won this book from Goodreads.com and shared with me. Very interesting book about the origins of wine without being too technical. It spent time talking about how the wine industry is trying to expand the types of grapes used for wine after years and years of minimizing the types of grapes used. Also interesting that you don’t just transplant a vine - the conditions must meet the criteria the vine needs. Bad news…very limited availability in the Midwest.
April 18, 2018
I won this book in a Goodreads Giveaway. I only entered because I have a son who sells wine and I thought it would make a nice gift for him. I thought it would be the type of book that only wine lovers would enjoy. However, I was pleasantly surprised at how interesting the book was. Mr. Begos is an entertaining writer which made it easy to stay involved with the subject.
May 10, 2018
Goodreads book. The premise was very good. I do love a book that changes my thoughts on things - and this certainly did. On top of many other things, I find myself - and my friends - looking for different types of wines to try. It's always a wonderful thing to find something new in life. I'm always interested in history and it's lovely to apply it to a new part of your life too.
January 3, 2020
The right balance of science (genetics/fossils/food science), investigative journalism (interviews with wine experts), storytelling (a retelling of the history of ancient wines), traveler's diary (the author visits various countries), and wine tasting guide (complete with wine selections). You could say this is a full-bodied book, not too dry, with plenty of depth, and a smooth finish!
May 25, 2020
Pretty good. This book caused me to take a new approach to wines. When I travel, I will look for the unique indigenous wines. I will try them with an open mind instead of a knee-jerk reaction to the reliable standard varieties. I also liked the author's recommendations in the back of each chapter.
February 9, 2021
I love books about wine. I love books about the history of wine, but this book was long winded, and not facts and interesting tidbits were sprinkled in. I had a lot of trouble staying focused as he kept saying over and over about how he wanted to find this wine. Have to admit to a DNF for me as I just could was not kept engaged with the topic.
May 18, 2021
My husband and I got interested in learning more about wines during our confinement because of the pandemic. I gave this book to him as a present and he read it first then I had to read it so I could talk semi intelligently about what we both are learning. I can't claim to be anywhere near an expert, but at least I now know why I like the wines I do.
August 10, 2018
Fascinating book. The author made me question the conventional understanding of wine and food systems in general. This book will be in the back of my mind every time I see a wine list or go into a wine shop.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 61 reviews