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Burma: Rivers of Flavor

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The fact is, some books simply need to exist. Burma: The Cookbook is one of these. Burma is culturally rich and complex in many ways, but perhaps nowhere more than in its extraordinary food culture. It's at the crossroads between the food of the great Indian subcontinent (to its west) and the food of Southeast Asia (to its east), with a dash of Chinese influence (from the north), making it an amazing place in-between. With simple recipes for food that manages to be elegant and earthy at the same time, plus stories of a place and a people that inspired Rudyard Kipling, Somerset Maugham, and George Orwell, this may be Duguid's most enchanting cookbook yet. The book features photographs throughout--of the finished dishes, of people, of a hauntingly beautiful land--as well as travel tips, a history of Burma, extensive glossaries, and a bibliography.

385 pages, Kindle Edition

First published September 18, 2012

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About the author

Naomi Duguid

12 books37 followers
Naomi Duguid, traveller, writer, photographer, cook, is often described as a culinary anthropologist.

She is also the author of the acclaimed BURMA: Rivers of Flavor and the co-author of six earlier award-winning books of food and travel: Hot Sour Salty Sweet: A Culinary Journey Through South-East Asia; Seductions of Rice; Flatbreads and Flavors; HomeBaking; Mangoes and Curry Leaves; and Beyond the Great Wall: Recipes and Stories from the Other China. The books explore home-cooked foods in their cultural context, with recipes and photographs as well as stories.

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Displaying 1 - 30 of 37 reviews
152 reviews31 followers
March 5, 2016
The thought of Burma is always very close to my heart. I think it could be because my great grandfathers had lived there for a while. This book gives a very good reference to the food habits and methods of different regions of Burma. I could recognize a few south Indian preparations of my native place - resembles a few of Burma - "Kavuni Arisi", "Kosu malli" , "Ukhra" .
It is such a coincidence that I few books I read were related to Buddhism - A religion that started with "no God" have its founder looked upon as a God. The book has great photographs that inspire you to visit the country. Hope they soon open up themselves to the world.
Profile Image for Trish.
1,422 reviews2,711 followers
January 1, 2013
This astonishing compendium of Burmese country foods is a travel guide as well as a cookbook. Duguid has long experience in South Asia, and has worked hard to translate foodstuffs and measurements into something Western cooks can create in their own homes. She tells stories, too, of where she gets the recipes and how she’s seen ingredients used. She tells of places she’s visited and people she’s met—after a couple hours with this gorgeously photographed book one feels as though one had spent a week away. It is positively transporting.

Any aspiring visitor to Burma should have a look at this to get a sense of what one will encounter. Duguid makes one comfortable with local greens, and discusses how, despite Burma’s long coastline, river fish are most prized. Contrary to the expectations of many, not all dishes contain red-hot chilies—often these are condiments that one can add to one’s dish after cooking, along with a series of herbs or pastes, so that one may moderate one’s intake.

Interestingly, Duguid explains that Burma may be a vegetarian haven, for many dishes are meatless or can be modified for meatless cooking, using a fermented soybean paste dried into a cracker “tua nao” for flavoring instead of fish sauce or shrimp paste. She introduced me to “Shan Tofu,” a chickpea-flour tofu that she calls “one of the great unsung treasures of Southeast Asia.” Besan, or chickpea flour, is whisked into salted water and heated on a stove until shiny and thick, poured into a shallow dish to cool. It resembles a cooling polenta in texture, but holds together in soups or salads, and it can be sliced or cubed, eaten plain or fried. I made a brilliant vegan Ma-Po Tofu with it and I’m going to try it “savory baked” as well.

Another intriguing dish I’d like to try immediately is a porridge made of jasmine rice and peanuts which resembles oatmeal but which is spiced with chili oil and blanched greens, fried shallots and crushed roasted peanuts. It is a blank canvas on which to riff one’s highly flavored specialties. Duguid suggests this porridge can be amended to become a sort of white pasta sauce to serve over rice noodles…adding ingredients until one has a meal-sized mixture of food held together with a spiced rice paste. Very intriguing.

Every library should have a copy of this book. It is a beautiful, recent introduction to life in Burma and it is indispensable for a traveler.
Profile Image for Lee Broderick.
Author 4 books83 followers
August 25, 2016
I confess: before reading this book, I knew nothing about Burmese food. My father was born in Burma but his family left the country while he was still a baby. Because of that fleeting, colonial, family connection Burma has always been a country of mystery and intrigue for me: something hovering around the edges of my knowledge and my family, waiting to be explored.

A cynic might suggest that Naomi Duguid was quick off the mark in visiting Burma, as the country begins to open up, and writing a book for a Western audience always eager for the next "new" cuisine. Her introduction here does little to dispel any such cynicism as she freely admits to only having visited the country twice before deciding to write this book in 2008. Beneath that though, there does appear to be a genuine affection for the country, its people and its food. In recent years there have been a number of excellent cookbooks written by authors with long-standing connections with the cuisines they're writing about and it's perhaps too easy to see any other approach as a cash-in; it needn't be so though. Passion and research can go a long way in making up for any deficiency in personal experience and need not necessarily result in anything less authentic. The reaction to fusion cuisine has not yet abated but authenticity is as grey in colour as any other quality and there's no need for us to see things in quite so black and white terms.

An extensive bibliography goes some way to demonstrating thorough research; my unfamiliarity with the cuisine means that I can't comment further on its authenticity or otherwise but there are hints which suggest that they are so - more on that later.

Unlike many modern international cookbooks, which seek to place the book in the context of the cuisine it is describing, historically and especially culturally through a lengthy introduction (e.g. Made in Italy: Food and Stories , Thai Food ), Duguid opts for an approach in Burma: Rivers of Flavor more akin to those usually adopted for national cuisine cookbooks (e.g. Nathan Outlaw's British Seafood ): she briefly states why she wished to write the book in her introduction then leaps into recipes. Each recipe is accompanied by two or three paragraphs of text usually giving her discovery story and throughout the book page-long features document more of her travels. For me, this was the book's biggest weakness as they smacked of the vainglorious, swaggering earnestness of the returning gap year student, e.g. these two opening lines (chosen at random):
'To reach Hsipaw, I rode in a share-taxi with no shock-absorbers and unreliable brakes up a sometimes scary winding road from Mandalay.'

'Soon after I landed at the tiny airport in Sittwe, on Burma's west coast, I was accosted by a tout, a rare experience in Burma.... he persisted like a drunk in a bar. I dodged him and caught a motorcycle rickshaw into town.'

Perhaps this preference of mine is just evidence of a transatlantic cultural divide though - most U.S.American reviewers on GoodReads seemed to have enjoyed these segments and rated them as a highlight of the book.

Ah, yes. U.S.Americanisms. Any British person reviewing a U.S. cookbook has to mention them sooner or later. Names for ingredients such as shrimps, scallions, eggplants and 'english cucumbers' will give British English speakers a pause for thought - a short pause for experienced cooks who've used U.S. cookbooks before, a longer one (and perhaps an internet search) for the less experienced. American weights and measures are, of course, used throughout the book and although a conversion chart is provided at the end of the book this doesn't address the principle difficulty that European cooks have with them - namely that we're not used to using volume measurements for solid ingredients (quite why you'd want to is still, I confess, beyond me). If a recipe includes shallots, for example (as every recipe in this book does) then I want to know how many, not what proportion of a cup of 'minced' ingredient - why dice them then measure them? It's potentially wasteful but, again, a familiar problem to European cooks using U.S. cookbooks so it's not a criticism of this one per se. The other problem that European cooks frequently have with U.S.American recipes is portion size - often a recipe for 2/4 people comes out far bigger than a similar suggestion on this side of the Atlantic. Again, an experienced cook can adjust for this but here there is less need.

I mentioned earlier that there were indications as to the authenticity of the recipes contained in the book and it is portion size that provides the biggest clue - the author explains that the recipes are given as she learned them. This means that sizes vary wildly and although Duguid does suggest how many people a dish might serve as a part of a Western meal it is not the pre-proscribed 'four persons'. Many recipes here are, unconventionally, suggested for three people, although by European standards they would probably serve four (one recipe, containing 1.5kg of fish and served with rice, for example, is suggested for four-six people but, by my maths, would comfortably feed six-eight). What of the recipes themselves, then?

Burma shares lengthy borders with India and China, as well as Thailand. This geography is amply reflected in the recipes showcased here which combine elements of all three: okra, aubergines, potatoes, tomatoes and, ubiquitously, turmeric are all reminiscent of Indian cuisine; pork, noodles, pak choi and tofu are obvious Chinese imports and fish sauce (another near ubiquitous ingredient) is highly redolent of Burma's third neighbour (a shorter border is also shared with Bangladesh). All of the recipes are easy to follow and, by and large, only use ingredients that are familiar, or at least easily obtainable, for Western cooks. In terms of flavour, all of the dishes are mildly spiced, unlike their neighbours. Apparently it's customary in Burma to provide both chilli powder and chilli oil as table condiments so that diners can adjust the heat of the dish to their liking - in this respect, Burmese food maybe the ideal introductory Asian cuisine for anyone unfamiliar or uncertain.

Finally, to bring this review back to where I started, what of Burma and my family? Throughout my childhood, my father confused friends that came to stay by incorporating banana into the traditional British fried breakfast. I, of course, have continued that tradition; the sweetness is a wonderful contrast to the salty bacon, for one thing. My dad's father, apparently, also used to incorporate brinjal (aubergine), they weren't always so easy to find in this country as now and that perhaps explains why we no longer include them. He was a sergeant in the British army and got posted to Kenya after leaving Burma - that's where my dad grew up. For years I'd assumed that this is where our odd breakfast came from - Africa has loomed large in my family all my life. The very last recipe in this book though? Fried banana! Burma, then, remains an ephemeral, mysterious part of my family heritage and it turns out that it may have had a more lasting impact than I previously realised.
Profile Image for Sps.
592 reviews8 followers
February 22, 2013
One of those cookbooks that are part travelogue, part display of food styling skills, and part recipe book. Photos on matte paper of women at market stalls, Buddhas, and condiments heaped attractively in finger bowls, you know the type.

Now that the chef de cuisine and I have made a few recipes, I feel like I have a good sense for the foundational ingredients of Burmese cooking: shallots above all, rice, peanut oil, turmeric, ginger, garlic, peas, and of course fishy things for which we find substitutes. We made: two mild, turmeric-colored curries, one tomato-mushroom and one with kabocha squash; two shan tofu dishes, a noodle soup with hella toppings and a salad with wild lime; a lime and garlic chicken (gardein, in our case) dish; fried shallots and shallot oil; and some yummy fried rice.

Profile Image for Robin.
126 reviews1 follower
January 5, 2013
Beautiful, and with an authenticity I love in all of Duguid's books. Still, being vegetarian there aren't all that many options here, and perhaps because I haven't been to Burma, I didn't get excited enough about any of the recipes to try them, especially since most require preparation of Burmese pantry basics. It would be worth it if you planned to make these recipes relatively frequently, but I think I'll stick to the author's other cookbooks, which I found much more inspiring, at least for the way I cook.
Profile Image for Ida.
9 reviews
January 20, 2013
I am a big fan of all Naomi's books. Part cookbook, part photo book, part cultural handbook and part travelogue, she transports you to these beautiful places by sharing her experiences with her readers -- you will live, breathe and eat Burma through her eyes. The recipes themselves look authentic and enticing and with a few creative swaps, adaptable for vegans as well.
Profile Image for Anna Huynh.
134 reviews2 followers
January 4, 2015
Great book with great recipes! Here are the recipes I tried and were super tasty:

Coriander-tomato omelet
Burmese Grill chicken
Super green salad (called for spinach; I used kale and the kale one tasted better)
Tamarind Sauce with pan fried tofu
Burmese crepes
Fried Rice with Shallots

Will definitely repeat these!
Profile Image for May Ling.
1,086 reviews286 followers
September 15, 2018
I really liked this cook book. read it while staying at a boutique hotel in Bagan. The cultural notes helped a lot as I continued my travels. Duguid does a great job there. As for the recipes, this is an excellent starting place for anyone who wants to venture cooking for this region. I def will be trying to combo fish sauce, peanuts and the aromatics more directly. Yummy.

Profile Image for Alex.
305 reviews
March 4, 2019
I normally wouldn't add cookbooks here, but this one contained a lot of non-recipe text, and I made a point of reading all of it. Duguid goes out of her way to provide context for the cooking styles of various ethnic groups within Burma, little travel columns about her sources and experiences travelling there, and a pocket history of the country from pre-history through the present (the present being publication of course; now noticeably out of date). I don't know that much about Burma, although it was interesting watching her walk the line between defying the military government (then just barely loosening up) - e.g., referring to the country as Burma rather than Myanmar and using other ethnic terms still used by the people but rejected by the government; picking and choosing among new names and transliterations of words, making note of the military government's anti-democratic tactics and generally positive coverage of the pro-democracy protests and Aung San Suu Kyi (then a more uncomplicated figure) - and moments where it seemed like she was excusing or glossing over problems, possibly self-censoring because of potential consequences for future travel in the area (notably, her complete glossing over of the Rohingya crisis, which was alluded to but never directly addressed).

Overall, I think it was a fascinating book to work through, even though I only tabbed down a relatively small proportion of the recipes to try.
Profile Image for Elizabeth.
464 reviews28 followers
October 30, 2018
The photographs in this book are stunningly beautiful. We were particularly entranced by photos and description of the Market by Candlelight in Hsipaw.

Equally entrancing was the section on boating out of Sittwe on the Kaladan River:
As we moved slowly through the pale silver of the water, past the darkened riverbanks and the occasional small boat, [...] we entered a timeless vast space of wide, wide river and endless opnen sky, the colors pale and gradually warming in the early light. We were dwarfed by the vastness, a small skiff chugging up a wide expanse of water toward a brilliant horizon. (p83)


Strangely, though, the recipes and stories were not quite as picturesque and irresistable as we have come to expect from Duguid's writing. The writing is ever so slightly impersonal, feeling a little more like a travelogue than a diary.

We thought things were on the upswing with "and yet..."
A travel agent in Rangoon had warned me as he sold me my plane ticket that I"d be disappointed in Myitkyina: "There's nothing of interest left to look at there." And yet... (p135)


Alas, other books called to us and I'm afraid we took this back to the library without trying any of the dishes at all. As interesting and simply flavoured as they seemed they might be, with names like "fragrant fish broth", "classic sour soup", "okra shallot stir-fry", curried chicken livers. Nor did the references to ingredients such as red chile oil, toasted chickpea flour, toasted rice powder, sawtooth herb, change our minds....
71 reviews
September 24, 2014
This book is spectacular. I have spent many years cooking from other books written by Naomi Duguid, and was worried that her fairly recent divorce from Jeffrey Alford (her longtime co-author) would end the string of phenomenal cookbooks. I am so pleased (selfish though this may be) that Naomi has written a book that rivals any of the previous.

Naomi isn't a celebrity chef. She doesn't dash off a cookbook, and then trade on name recognition for sales. She truly immerses herself in a culture, for years and years, living amongst the indigenous people and learning from them. Her resulting cookbooks include not only truly authentic recipes, but stories and photos from her time spent in those places. This cookbook, like the others, is a great glimpse into another culture.

Though the cookbook is authentic, the recipes are entirely accessible. They don't contain numerous hard-to-find or expensive ingredients. They are also quite easy to prepare for anyone with an average knowledge of cooking. The most unsual things you might have to do are to fry some crispy shallots or whirl a handful of dried shrimp in a spice/coffee grinder (or food processor).

I cannot wait to roll up my sleeves and cook, and cook and cook, from this lovely book. The recipes I've made so far are fantastic, and I plan to make many more.
Profile Image for Jennifer Stephens.
124 reviews4 followers
September 13, 2015
One of my favorite cookbooks in my international collection. Naomi has put together *the* best English language cookbook on Burmese cooking. And it's so much more than just a cookbook, as she weaves in stories of Burmese culture and her travelogue throughout the pages. This is a book that fun to read from beginning to end, before you ever sit down to make any of the recipes. When you do get to making them, you won't be disappointed. Everything I've tried here has been fantastic. Most recently, I made a late summer supper pairing of lemongrass chicken soup and shrimp salad (with the addition of fresh tomatoes from my garden). It was very well received. This is an essential cookbook on southeast Asian cuisine to add to your collection.
Profile Image for Kathy Roaleen.
109 reviews
August 28, 2017
Great travelogue cookbook

I've always loved Ms Duguid's books. She researches her recipes well and puts food squarely in the center of the cultural settings she explores. Photos are lush and informative. I have not tried any of her recipes yet, as I read cookbooks like novels, and have just finished this book, however I bookmarked dozens of tempting dishes and intend on trying many of them. I always recommend books by Ms Duguid, and this is no exception. Burmese cooking, here I come!
Profile Image for Queer.
402 reviews
October 16, 2012
This is an essential read for anyone interested in southeast asian cookery. I am happy to also add this is the best book on Burmese cooking available in English. Duguid's approach through both ethnographic notes and photos lend a careful and considerate tone to what could have been an only subtly different cuisine to most non-Burmese. She's an expert and her cookbook is expertly done. I do wish the recipes did not feel as if they were totally adapted to western palates, however.
Profile Image for Breanna Randall.
57 reviews3 followers
June 17, 2019
This is a great read for those who are curious about Myanmar, and the images and descriptions within provide a nice little slice of life depiction of Burma.

I felt like this book was missing a small handful of recipes that are a big part of everyday life here in Myanmar, and the styling of the food is so western that in some cases the food does not look quite like its original counterpart. I wish the book had more images with each recipe; some of the recipes have no images at all.
Profile Image for Louise Davy.
114 reviews4 followers
April 19, 2017
I travelled in Burma in 1975 when there were only one week visas. I remember the coffee houses with the wonderful sweet treats and the men sitting about.
Naomi has travelled extensively in the country and the recipes are interspersed with vignettes about the people.
Lots of recipes to try with easily found ingredients.
Profile Image for Michelle.
2,612 reviews54 followers
December 26, 2012
Loved this--beautiful pictures, interesting reading about the Burmese people and their food, would love to try some of these recipes but will have trouble finding ingredients around here! Still, a terrific book.
Profile Image for Beka.
2,949 reviews
January 15, 2013
An amazing book. There is so much information about the Burmese way of life and people, not just the food. Although the dishes look delicious (when there were pictures), I was a bit daunted by the number of ingredients, unfamiliar ingredients, and amount of work involved.
Profile Image for Sara.
679 reviews
February 10, 2013
A good-looking cookbook, with interesting history and great stories. However, a lot of recipes require the use of three or four (or more) odd ingredients that are made far in advance. So you'd basically have to keep a whole Burmese pantry in your kitchen to be able to cook a lot of these recipes.
Profile Image for Ed.
362 reviews5 followers
December 10, 2013
saw this among the cookbook shelf at one of my favorite restaurants and after cooking from it for a couple weeks, now using fish sauce, shrimp powder, and fried shallots in everything. lots to learn about Burma culturally and politically from this book through food.
6 reviews1 follower
January 13, 2018
Awesome cookbook for Asian meals!! The best fried rice recipe I've ever found is in here, as well as some delicious recipes for condiments and sauces. I like the sweet-chili garlic sauce and shallot oil a lot.
1,908 reviews5 followers
January 4, 2013
It was a really fun travelogue with recipes. This is the first Duguid book that I have read. They all look so great but I never end up getting them but now, I may take a second chance at all these.
206 reviews2 followers
January 15, 2013
Four books in one: cookbook, history book, travelogue, and photography. Loved them all. Made me want to travel to Burma to see everything Duguid described and photographed.
Profile Image for Rada.
643 reviews5 followers
June 26, 2015
So amazing. Burma is a country that we never think about, especially when it comes to food. I am so glad that we now have a book to tell us what we're missing.
Profile Image for Nancy Errebo.
9 reviews7 followers
August 4, 2018
This is a wonderful travel book as well as a wonderful cookbook. It was invaluable on my trip to Myanmar in 2015. My friend from Myanmar says the recipes are very authentic.
Profile Image for Rosemary Burton.
101 reviews2 followers
September 18, 2018
Must have for authentic foodies

Beautiful travel photos of people and their food in different regions of Burma. It is an enjoyable read as well as authentic recipes.
Profile Image for Tamra Lagrone.
19 reviews
July 17, 2019
I can't wait to try out the tantalizing recipes and make these exotic flavors a regular part of my weekly menus.
Profile Image for Yaaresse.
2,157 reviews16 followers
July 6, 2020
Here's what I knew about Burma.
- It's now called Myanmar.
- Its distinctive shape makes it easy to find on a map.
- Nobel Peace Prize winner Aung San Suu Kyi is Burmese.
- George Orwell lived there for a while.
- There's a HUGE volcanic plug there with a Buddhist temple on top of it. It looks like something dreamed up in a collaboration between Tolkien and The Dalai Lama.

What I suspected is that the food might have some similarities to Thai and Indian foods since it does share borders with both. And in that, I wasn't wrong. I also knew from previous experience with Duguid's cookbooks that they are as much travelogue as cookbook, so I'd probably learn something from reading this.

As with all of Duiguid's cookbooks, this one is photo-rich and description heavy. Sometimes her touristy vibe ("Hey, i've been here twice, so I know ALL ABOUT IT") shtick gets to be a bit irritating, but she almost always makes up for it by resorting to facts and more photos that illustrate where she traveled and then a lot of tasty-looking recipes. Surprisingly, the recipes don't have too many unusual ingredients, and Duiguid is very good about offering alternatives.

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