The Pengin Book of Indian Railway Stories : Edited by Ruskin Bond
I was drawn to this book as I am a bit partial to books written by Ruskin Bond. Besides the book is not voluminous and contains short stories written by eminent authors ranging from Jules Verne, Bill Aitken, Kipling to name a few. The stories tell us very vividly about their unique experiences with the railways from the time of the Raj to the modern day.Every story is set in the backdrop of the railways and there is a twist to every story towards the end. In the introduction to this collection, the author explains in a candid fashion as to why he has chosen to write on the subject of the Indian railways despite the fact that he is not really a “great railway traveller”. In “Soot gets into Your Eyes”, the author tells us about his exposure to the railways, from his boyhood days, as his maternal grandfather, William Clerke was Assistant Station Master at Karachi in the 1920s and his uncle Fred Clark, was Station Superintendent at Delhi Main during World War II. His uncle in fact owned a bungalow near the station which left the garden with fine film of soot as the steam engines passed by and their constant clamour would drown all the other sounds.The author would often spend time on railway platforms and was inspired to write railway stories such as “The Night train at Deoli, “The woman on platform 8”. While not writing, he would browse at the station bookstalls such as A.H. Wheeler and Co. in the north and Higginbothams to the south. These bookstalls were among the pioneers of publishing in India. We still get to see these bookstalls in some of the stations today. The stories are divided into two sections, Stories before Independence and Stories after Independence. They tell us about the experiences of writers belonging to two different periods as they capture the unique atmosphere of the stations. During the days of the Raj travelling by rail was not smoothsailing, as there were break of journeys and the travellers had to take a different mode of transport to reach their destination. Generally, the railway tracks were broad guage, but there were certain areas in the south and in the north where the metre guage tracks were also laid. The present-day Indian railways have adopted the policy of Uniguage throughout the country by converting all existing metre guage lines into broad guage. In “99 UP”, Manojit Mitra describes as to how the station in the sleepy village of Seulia comes to life for a short period of time when the villagers come to know that a film star is visiting their village. The story ends with a deep disappointment to the villagers as the film star fails to turn up to attend the inaugral show of his latest film,” Naba Anuraag”, in the village talkies. Satyajit Ray in his tale titled,” Barin Bhowmik’s Ailment,” gives the readers a glimpse of unusual encounters on train journeys. Khushwant Singh’s story resonates with the horrors of the communal holocaust,following Partition, in “Mano Majra Station”.He writes, “the village was stilled in a deathly silence. No one asked anyone else what the odor was. They all knew. The answer was implicit in the fact that the train had come from Pakistan. “In Jim Corbett’s “Loyalty”, we become aware of his fascination for the Railways and his undying love for India, apart from being a wild life hunter and conservationist. In Kipling’s stories, the description of the railways is ever present, which is just as relevant today as it was during the days of the Raj. In his story, “The man who would be king”, he says, “the beginning of everything was in a railway train upon the road to Mhow to Ajmir”, which sets the tone for the rest of his work, as he goes on to describe Marwar Junction and which develops into one of his finest stories. In “Balbir Arora goes Metric”, Bill Aitken in his opening line says “India’s metre guage possesses a magic of its own”, which tells us of his preference over the broad guage, further, he says that it” gives you more of the essential India, being the only line that can claim to be pan-subcontinental”. He tells us about his experience with the Palace on Wheels,(POW), as he gets an invitation to ride a brand new rake that heralded a modernized version of the train.But Aitken seems to feel that this project has not quite succeeded in giving the real feel of the Indian railways as it lacked the “actual railway atmosphere”, and that it was a “snob’s tour of Rajasthan’s palaces”. According to his opinion, the POW project in its present form could be suitably tweaked to make it interesting to the tourists and more attractive to them in the Railways quest for earning Forex. Waxing lyrical about the metre guage, he says that “the modest impact of being pulled by diesel is instantly forgettable. “This was all the more so, as he was the sole ticket holding passenger on the empty 211 UP Alanavar-Dandeli Mixed and the switch to the upmarket symphony of the money spinning POW was disappointing to say the least. He finds the YG class engines, “superbly caparisoned and simmering in all their buffed splendour”. The big trunk routes with their welded rails fail to make any impression. After all what is the railway without its “clicks and clacks”. The difference between diesel and the “chhoti line” is the “hiatus between tossed back best-seller and the lingering savour on the palate that betokens true literature”.That is Bill Aitken for you on Indian railways. In the final analysis , this book beautifully puts into perspective the history of the Indian railways over time.