Charles James: Portrait of an Unreasonable Man: Fame, Fashion, Art

by Michele Gerber Klein, Harold Koda (Foreword)

Inspired by the discovery of long-overlooked interviews conducted just before his death, this is the first biography of the visionary fashion designer Charles James.

Christian Dior described him as the inspiration for the "New Look." Salvador Dali called his work "soft sculpture," and Virginia Woolf exclaimed, "He is a genius."

As George Bernard Shaw tells us, only unreasonable men change the world. This portrait of the life and times of Charles James--winner of two Coty awards, and the subject of a 2014 Metropolitan Museum of Art show--draws on the glamour of Europe in the 1930s, and the dazzle of New York City from the '40s through the '70s as it travels with James from his birth to privilege in England in 1906 and follows his career through his complex and turbulent relationships with exceptional women such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Eleanor Lambert, ending with his penurious death in New York's fabled Chelsea Hotel.

As engrossing as a novel, as dramatic as grand opera, James's story will provoke, rivet, and inspire.

Genres: Fashion, Nonfiction, Biography

254 pages, Hardcover

First published March 20, 2018

Reviews

[rbookquest · Rating 4 out of 5]

Wonderful time traveling to the glamour and artistic creation of the 1950s. However, this is no bedtime story, as it’s intense and tragic. Long ago, I took a History of Fashion course just out of curiosity, and I was fascinated to see how modern the 1930s were and how contemporary designers draw their inspiration, sometimes almost identical, from that era. For instance, Jean Paul Gaultier’s 90’s perfume bottle shaped similar to the original from the ’40s designed by Elsa Schiaparelli’s Mae West legendary figure. But I didn’t remember Charles James’ name or work. When I read he was considered the first Haute Couturier and a genius, I was stunned that I haven’t really noticed his name before, as I would easily recall Halston, Balenciaga or Dior (by the way all highly influenced by Charles James). I’m sure that people in the fashion scene would definitely know James well, now I know he was one of the greatest, even that his name has faded away from the mainstream.

I loved this book and that it was written under the perspective of the iconic women that inspired James Charles to produce the most beautiful dress shapes and statements. His obsession for structure, body shapes and experimenting with patterns and new materials cemented the Haut-couture outset.

After this book, I can't wait to attend one of his retrospective open museums shows to admire his work.

[kerrycat · Rating 5 out of 5]

Not just a biography of the great Charles James, but also of those closest to him - including some of my favorite 20th century society personalities. The good, the bad, and the ugly . . . it's all here, in all of James' glorious brilliance and insanely huge ego. Considering how many of his ideas and designs were outright stolen, it's no wonder he was always on edge. So much to love here, from the firsthand accounts of events and situations, to the details of James's personal and professional life, told compellingly. Well done.

[Thorlakur · Rating 2 out of 5]

A poorly structured book about an interesting man. Reads like a gossipy transcript from recordings of Charles James, and does little to direct the contemporary reader who may not be a 100% versed in the nightlife of Paris, London or New York of the 1940s and 1950s. Few attempts are made at explaining some of the enigmas surrounding the man or his actions. Also I recall a person being described as fat and ugly by the author, which would not be a hallmark of a serious biography.

[Brian Kovesci · Rating 5 out of 5]

Charles James was a genius, producing work in the correct field at the right time.

Charles James, also, was a bit of a bitch who was fiscally irresponsible, a bit of a swindler and loved to complain about his misfortune.

[₵oincidental Ðandy · Rating 4 out of 5]

A rich & seamless blend of social & mid-twentieth century fashion histories.