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Pearls before Poppies: The Story of the Red Cross Pearls
In February 1918, when the First World War was still being bitterly fought, prominent society member Lady Northcliffe conceived an idea to help raise funds for the British Red Cross. Using her husband’s newspapers, The Times and the Daily Mail, she ran a campaign to collect enough pearls to create a necklace, intending to raffle the piece to raise money.The campaign captured the public’s imagination. Over the next nine months nearly 4,000 pearls poured in from around the world. Pearls were donated in tribute to lost brothers, husbands and sons, and groups of women came together to contribute one pearl on behalf of their communities. Those donated ranged from priceless heirlooms –one had survived the sinking of the Titanic – to imperfect yet treasured trinkets.Working with Christie’s and the International Fundraising Committee of the British Red Cross, author Rachel Trethewey expertly weaves the touching story of a generation of women who gave what they had to aid the war effort and commemorate their losses.
- GenresHistory
288 pages, Hardcover
Published March 16, 2018
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Displaying 1 - 11 of 11 reviews
August 1, 2021
Hard to stay motivated in reading this one, as the writing is more of a compendium of mini-bios than a focused work regarding the initiative. For all of the emphasis on the egalitarian nature of the contributions, the reality is that the bios that make up the bulk of the story are of the British elite, and wander into their lives far afield from their philanthropy. The chapter toward the end on Kitchener was very well done, but the book ultimately ends with a quiet thud. On to other reading!
December 9, 2018
I really enjoyed this book, and bought it as I work with antique Jewellery and thought I was right up my street. But you really don’t have to have an interest in Jewellery to love this book, I found it a interesting approach to a period of history that is often quite familiar. It was nice to see the efforts made by woman of all walks of life to contribute to the war, rather than just a male approach.
September 28, 2018
Pearls Before Poppies: The Story of the Red Cross Pearls, by Rachel Trethewey, delves into the stories of the wealthy women who orchestrated a First World War fundraiser that, thanks to supportive reporting in national newspapers, captured the wider public imagination. The Pearl Necklace Campaign was instigated by Lady Northcliffe, wife of an influential press baron who owned the widely read Times and Daily Mail. She asked that her fellow society ladies give one pearl from their jewellery collections to enable a necklace to be created that would be auctioned, with proceeds going to The Red Cross to help fund support for soldiers. Pearls were in vogue and many of these patrician women possessed numerous strands, inherited or gifted to them as status symbols from husbands or lovers. It was pointed out to them that one pearl would not be missed, and the gift would be regarded as an act of generosity. How one was seen by one’s peers mattered.
Many women subsequently contributed, often citing their reasons in notes accompanying the donation – a lost child or partner in whose memory the pearl was sent. These included pearls from women of less affluent social backgrounds, some of whom clubbed together to purchase a jewel they could not individually afford to give.
The aristocracy expected their children to marry their social equals or those regarded as superior, which led to a great deal of overlap between particular families. Within the various chapters of this book the reader learns of the women’s personal losses as a result of the conflict as well as the voluntary roles they played at home and abroad. Their menfolk, many having been brought up at the likes of Eton, had had instilled in them the sacredness of patriotism alongside the glory of battle and sacrifice. Prior to the war these young people had been indolent, decadent, searching for anything that would give their life meaning. The women were decorative and their families expected them to behave with superficial decorum. Prior to marriage they were strictly chaperoned while their parents philandered.
The war offered opportunities for freedom and adventure to both sexes. Unlike most factual histories of the time, these accounts focus on the women. The Pearl Necklace Campaign was seen as a fashionable cause and enjoyed royal patronage. Wives and their husband’s mistresses worked together. The tenets of the Christian faith were cited as a comfort in times of bereavement. Infidelities were, it appears, regarded as acceptable.
Many of the women lost brothers, husbands and sons. Concern was voiced that the best of a generation – the heirs to the landed gentry’s estates – were being sacrificed. Eugenics casts a shadow over several of the comments made. The children had been raised by nannies, governesses and schools. Parents did not just lose favourites but also the perpetuation of the family name. Young widows were encouraged to remarry and produce more babies – ‘splendid boys’ to replace lost scions.
Given what we now know about the degrees of difficulty experienced during war between the upper and lower echelons of society, and indeed the role played by powerful men in sending troops to their deaths, it is hard to feel as much sympathy for these privileged ladies as for their working class counterparts. Nevertheless, where all strata of society are levelled is in the emotional impact of bereavement. The loss of a husband may not have led to destitution but it was still challenging to bear with the stoicism expected.
The energy and sense of purpose demonstrated in the fundraiser was also evident in other wartime roles the women played. So many offered to open their opulent homes as hospitals, to be seen to be helping the war effort, that not all could be accepted. Many constrained young society women relished the opportunity to serve as nurses.
“There was some scepticism about whether untrained aristocrats were the right people to run hospitals.”
The Pearl Necklace Campaign was just one of many fundraisers. Other items of value were collected for sale in bazaars across the country or at auction. With the war machine generating wealth for a few and the inevitable currency fluctuations in times of conflict, luxury items such as pearls became an investment. Family assets were to be protected.
Lady Northcliffe believed most money could be raised from the pearl necklaces created if they were raffled. By offering the possibility of attaining such a prize to even the lower orders of women for a relatively small outlay, it was anticipated that vast sums could be collected. This idea caused some consternation amongst her peers. Concern was voiced that such status symbols – pearls symbolised the wealth of the wearer – should not be owned by poor people. A lottery was regarded as gambling and condemned.
Attitudes to the poor were an interesting aspect to read. With able bodied men off fighting the women were doing their work. Although paid less this granted them previously unattainable freedom.
“there was a widespread fear that working-class women were using their […] allowances to buy alcohol and get drunk in public.”
Presumably the champagne parties society women attended were regarded as acceptable to the aristocracy. Any attempts at temperance merely sent consumption underground. Parliament retained its bars.
The auction of the pearl necklaces raised funds as intended. A century later what has become of them is not known. Although the inspiration for this book, the pearls are just one detail in what is an eclectic history of privileged women on the cusp of societal change. Despite the sometimes obsequious manner in which their stories are shared there is much of interest.
The various anecdotes jump around a great deal in time but conclude with a few details on the introduction of cultured pearls into society after the war years. This offers a chance to ponder the intrinsic worth of any material item. However valuable a treasure may be considered by self-regarding elites, worth is either sentimental or what a buyer is willing to pay. The author writes of what the pearl came to symbolise over centuries. The value to the soldiers that this fundraiser aimed to help was measured in the eventual Red Cross donation.
Many women subsequently contributed, often citing their reasons in notes accompanying the donation – a lost child or partner in whose memory the pearl was sent. These included pearls from women of less affluent social backgrounds, some of whom clubbed together to purchase a jewel they could not individually afford to give.
The aristocracy expected their children to marry their social equals or those regarded as superior, which led to a great deal of overlap between particular families. Within the various chapters of this book the reader learns of the women’s personal losses as a result of the conflict as well as the voluntary roles they played at home and abroad. Their menfolk, many having been brought up at the likes of Eton, had had instilled in them the sacredness of patriotism alongside the glory of battle and sacrifice. Prior to the war these young people had been indolent, decadent, searching for anything that would give their life meaning. The women were decorative and their families expected them to behave with superficial decorum. Prior to marriage they were strictly chaperoned while their parents philandered.
The war offered opportunities for freedom and adventure to both sexes. Unlike most factual histories of the time, these accounts focus on the women. The Pearl Necklace Campaign was seen as a fashionable cause and enjoyed royal patronage. Wives and their husband’s mistresses worked together. The tenets of the Christian faith were cited as a comfort in times of bereavement. Infidelities were, it appears, regarded as acceptable.
Many of the women lost brothers, husbands and sons. Concern was voiced that the best of a generation – the heirs to the landed gentry’s estates – were being sacrificed. Eugenics casts a shadow over several of the comments made. The children had been raised by nannies, governesses and schools. Parents did not just lose favourites but also the perpetuation of the family name. Young widows were encouraged to remarry and produce more babies – ‘splendid boys’ to replace lost scions.
Given what we now know about the degrees of difficulty experienced during war between the upper and lower echelons of society, and indeed the role played by powerful men in sending troops to their deaths, it is hard to feel as much sympathy for these privileged ladies as for their working class counterparts. Nevertheless, where all strata of society are levelled is in the emotional impact of bereavement. The loss of a husband may not have led to destitution but it was still challenging to bear with the stoicism expected.
The energy and sense of purpose demonstrated in the fundraiser was also evident in other wartime roles the women played. So many offered to open their opulent homes as hospitals, to be seen to be helping the war effort, that not all could be accepted. Many constrained young society women relished the opportunity to serve as nurses.
“There was some scepticism about whether untrained aristocrats were the right people to run hospitals.”
The Pearl Necklace Campaign was just one of many fundraisers. Other items of value were collected for sale in bazaars across the country or at auction. With the war machine generating wealth for a few and the inevitable currency fluctuations in times of conflict, luxury items such as pearls became an investment. Family assets were to be protected.
Lady Northcliffe believed most money could be raised from the pearl necklaces created if they were raffled. By offering the possibility of attaining such a prize to even the lower orders of women for a relatively small outlay, it was anticipated that vast sums could be collected. This idea caused some consternation amongst her peers. Concern was voiced that such status symbols – pearls symbolised the wealth of the wearer – should not be owned by poor people. A lottery was regarded as gambling and condemned.
Attitudes to the poor were an interesting aspect to read. With able bodied men off fighting the women were doing their work. Although paid less this granted them previously unattainable freedom.
“there was a widespread fear that working-class women were using their […] allowances to buy alcohol and get drunk in public.”
Presumably the champagne parties society women attended were regarded as acceptable to the aristocracy. Any attempts at temperance merely sent consumption underground. Parliament retained its bars.
The auction of the pearl necklaces raised funds as intended. A century later what has become of them is not known. Although the inspiration for this book, the pearls are just one detail in what is an eclectic history of privileged women on the cusp of societal change. Despite the sometimes obsequious manner in which their stories are shared there is much of interest.
The various anecdotes jump around a great deal in time but conclude with a few details on the introduction of cultured pearls into society after the war years. This offers a chance to ponder the intrinsic worth of any material item. However valuable a treasure may be considered by self-regarding elites, worth is either sentimental or what a buyer is willing to pay. The author writes of what the pearl came to symbolise over centuries. The value to the soldiers that this fundraiser aimed to help was measured in the eventual Red Cross donation.
June 27, 2018
I had never heard of this story before this book, and I was intrigued. I am still interested but will be doing my own research to learn more. I feel the writer spent too much time talking about the higher classes that donated and their personal stories than the actual purpose of the pearls.
June 10, 2021
If I could have given this no stars I would have done.
The story promised to be so intriguing and yet it read like a history text book.
I was very disappointed with this and although I tried to persevere with it, I did eventually gave up on it.
Yes I wanted to know was how the pearls were used to help the war effort, but more than that I wanted to know the back stories, not just about the wealthy who donated a single pearl from their own necklaces, but in particular about those working class and small villages that clubbed together to donate one between them - I wanted to know their stories. Unfortunately I’m still wondering 🙁
The story promised to be so intriguing and yet it read like a history text book.
I was very disappointed with this and although I tried to persevere with it, I did eventually gave up on it.
Yes I wanted to know was how the pearls were used to help the war effort, but more than that I wanted to know the back stories, not just about the wealthy who donated a single pearl from their own necklaces, but in particular about those working class and small villages that clubbed together to donate one between them - I wanted to know their stories. Unfortunately I’m still wondering 🙁
November 24, 2018
Read as part of my 1918-2018 theme. This was a really interesting book I would have loved the author to have tracked down some of the current owners of the pearls to see what happened to them as they were passed down through the generations.
June 18, 2021
A fascinating story regarding the pearls collected during WW1 to raise funds before poppies were taken as the symbol of Remembrance. Would have been a great tribute if these pearls had been on display 100 later.
March 5, 2025
I found the idea of this story more interesting than the finished product. I liked that I learned about this unique campaign in British history to raise money for the Red Cross during WWI. I liked that I learned about why women donated pearls…many pearls were donated to commemorate loved ones that were killed in the war. I liked that a whole chapter was devoted to nurses that helped soldiers and sometimes died in the hospitals next to them in German bombings. I liked (some of) the historical context for the campaign (there was just too much, as I talk more about below).
The author did her research for the book, and it shows. I think I got bogged down in the details, and there were a lot of details. I listened to this as an audiobook, and I found my mind wandering a lot. There were also a lot of people, and I gave up trying to remember who the author was talking about, and just listened to the stories as they were told to me. I probably missed out on some connections between stories, but that’s ok with me.
There was also a decent amount of (too much) backstory for many of the characters and events. For instance, the majority of the chapter that was supposed to be about the pearl auction was given over to telling us about previous Christie’s auctions benefiting the Red Cross in WWI, and only a small part of the chapter was about the pearl auction central to the story.
In the end, I don’t think it was a terrible book. I liked it, but the amount of (unimportant in my opinion) backstory made it hard.
The author did her research for the book, and it shows. I think I got bogged down in the details, and there were a lot of details. I listened to this as an audiobook, and I found my mind wandering a lot. There were also a lot of people, and I gave up trying to remember who the author was talking about, and just listened to the stories as they were told to me. I probably missed out on some connections between stories, but that’s ok with me.
There was also a decent amount of (too much) backstory for many of the characters and events. For instance, the majority of the chapter that was supposed to be about the pearl auction was given over to telling us about previous Christie’s auctions benefiting the Red Cross in WWI, and only a small part of the chapter was about the pearl auction central to the story.
In the end, I don’t think it was a terrible book. I liked it, but the amount of (unimportant in my opinion) backstory made it hard.
December 10, 2024
I was astounded by the initiative outlined here. I thought I had a good knowledge of WWI, but knew nothing of the Red Cross Pearls. My interest carried me through the often dense prose and the various lengthy, individual stories. While I would have welcomed a more straightforward account of the project, I found it fairly easy to dip into the chapters based on their titles to find the information I sought. I also appreciate the emphasis on individual stories, contributions and costs. This is an aspect of the Great War that had passed me by and needs to be known.
One particularly interesting aspect of Trethewey’s account is the effort made by women to unify their efforts despite the strong political divisions of their families, and sometimes their own political convictions.
The book could no doubt be improved. I was relieved to find an index, intending to follow up the references to Australia, but those I checked were not, in fact, correct.
My copy was borrowed. In spite of shortcomings, I have ordered a copy to share. It is an important contribution to our understanding of this period of our history.
One particularly interesting aspect of Trethewey’s account is the effort made by women to unify their efforts despite the strong political divisions of their families, and sometimes their own political convictions.
The book could no doubt be improved. I was relieved to find an index, intending to follow up the references to Australia, but those I checked were not, in fact, correct.
My copy was borrowed. In spite of shortcomings, I have ordered a copy to share. It is an important contribution to our understanding of this period of our history.
February 18, 2025
not exactly my usual fare (research related) and I think she's often not as critical of the class dynamics as she perhaps should be, especially as the book mostly focuses on upper class/aristocratic figures by the nature of its topic, but honestly made me cry in places and did reflect quite interestingly on what an insane transitional period WW1 was for British society. And it very helpfully gave me leads to all the bits of info I was looking for. So cheers Rachel
July 17, 2022
This was such an interesting story I really wondered why I struggled to get through it! It's more like a heavy-going text book, which was such a pity as it's such a little-known event. I now plan to do more research to find out what happened subsequently to the jewellery
Displaying 1 - 11 of 11 reviews