Kachka: A Return to Russian Cooking

by Bonnie Frumkin Morales, Deena Prichep

Celebrated Portland chef Bonnie Frumkin Morales brings her acclaimed Portland restaurant Kachka into your home kitchen with a debut cookbook enlivening Russian cuisine with an emphasis on vibrant, locally sourced ingredients.

“With Kachka, Bonnie Morales has done something amazing: thoroughly update and modernize Russian cuisine while steadfastly holding to its traditions and spirit. Thank you comrade!”
—Alton Brown

From bright pickles to pillowy dumplings, ingenious vodka infusions to traditional homestyle dishes, and varied zakuski to satisfying sweets, Kachka the cookbook covers the vivid world of Russian cuisine. More than 100 recipes show how easy it is to eat, drink, and open your heart in Soviet-inspired style, from the celebrated restaurant that is changing how America thinks about Russian food.

The recipes in this book set a communal table with nostalgic Eastern European dishes like Caucasus-inspired meatballs, Porcini Barley Soup, and Cauliflower Schnitzel, and give new and exciting twists to current food trends like pickling, fermentation, and bone broths.

Kachka’s recipes and narratives show how Russia’s storied tradition of smoked fish, cultured dairy, and a shot of vodka can be celebratory, elegant, and as easy as meat and potatoes. The food is clear and inviting, rooted in the past yet not at all afraid to play around and wear its punk rock heart on its sleeve.

Genres: Cookbooks, Food, Cooking, Nonfiction, Russia, Food and Drink, Reference

616 pages, Kindle Edition

Published November 14, 2017

Reviews

[☘Misericordia☘ ⚡ϟ⚡⛈⚡☁ ❇️❤❣ · Rating 1 out of 5]

I do realise that Bonnie is a cook not a linguist. Still, 'kachka' is a 'duck' in Ukrainian and Belarussian and never in Russian. In Russian, the same bird would be 'utka'. Why not use Google translate and Wiki before naming a book?

PS. Got a look at the Google version aaaand... This is so much fun! This book introduces a lot of stuff Russians have no idea about:
- 'Pelmenitsa',
- 'pol poWn-da', which is fun in 2 ways (see in comments below, which ones),
- 'Chervona Wine',
- 'тархуне',
- 'Bloody Masha'...
I'm not gonna explain why these things are lame and unauthentic (too lazy!) but they are. There is precious little Russian about this book.

PSS. And the 'pyanka'? The role of alcohol is vastly overrated in here. Why so much alco' cocktails? Who's supposed to drink them?

[Jurga · Rating 2 out of 5]

The subtitle is absolutely misleading. It should be - A Return to Soviet Cooking. Lot of these dishes I can make without a recipe because we used to eat like that. But I'm not Russian. I was born in Soviet Union and I'm Lithuanian. She gives recipes from Georgia, Ukraine, Azerbaijan etc., I can see in pictures Lithuanian cured meat, Rigas Balzams - the most famous Latvian alcoholic drink, Borjomi - mineral water from Georgia. Does it really look like Russian cuisine?

Oh, and this romantic approach to pyanka - "Toast, clink, drink, eat, repeat. Toast, clink, drink, eat, repeat. It’s such a beautiful way to spend time together. And that is what a pyanka really is." Srly? Reality is a bit different and it has nothing to do with a beautiful way to spend time together.

[Diana · Rating 5 out of 5]

My family grew up in the Soviet Union so I grew up eating a lot of the food Morales writes about in her book, cooked by my grandmothers, aunts, their friends and my mom. When we came to the States, Russian food was something I felt really embarrassed about, comparing it to what I saw other kids around me eating and thinking about how weird our food was in comparison. We ate things like sauerkraut, boiled beef tongue, liver patés, pickled herring and beets, various types of dried and canned fish and pickled tomatoes. I decided that cooking Soviet food wasn’t a skill I needed to learn. My family slowly adapted to a more “American” diet and we started having less and less of the foods we grew up with.

Years later I saw this book on a shelf in Portland Oregon and just the brilliantly colored image on the cover without reading the text drew me in immediately. It was so familiar! I looked at the cover for a minute and thought “well, this all looks very Russian” then I read the actual title. Leafing through Kachka, its a genuinely stunning book. The details in every photograph, the personal stories, the familiarity around her experiences around food, family and cooking tools (its been years since I’ve heard the words “mangal”, “kompot”, and “pelmenitsa”).

What really hit home for me were the recipes themselves. She advocates for the use of the freshest possible ingredients, salting your own salmon roe and in general putting out more updated versions of recipes that have been replicated for decades (usually using not so fresh ingredients because of what was available at the time).

But I only got this book after I went and experienced her restaurant in Portland for myself. I’m not going to write a restaurant review but I will say that it was amazing. It captured so many familiar nostalgic Soviet elements down to the last detail. (Although it was kind of amusing watching people suspiciously eyeing their “kholodetz”). This experience along with this wonderful book completely renewed my perspective on Soviet food, making me see it in a refreshed way where I am no longer embarrassed by my culture and embracing the weirdness of the food that I love to eat. I’m stoked that Morales has found a way to bring these recipes into the mainstream.

[Irena Smith · Rating 5 out of 5]

An unapologetically nostalgic all-in dive into Soviet nostalgia. This, I think, is how most former Soviet residents (my family included) would cook if they didn't have to stand in long lines with an avos'ka (a net bag whose name literally means "what-if?") hoping to "get" whatever's on offer—with gusto, joy, and no regard for salt, fat, or cholesterol. Ate at Kachka years ago while at Portland and fell in love with the hospitality, the Soviet-kitsch decor, and the Baba Yaga cocktail (and yeah, all the food, too). And now this gift of a book—not sure if I'm going to make any of the recipes, but reading through them—and Morales' sparkly prose—was pure pleasure.

[Paige]

Some of the better anecdotes and surrounding materials I’ve read in a cookbook, but wow Russian/Soviet cooking sits firmly that the intersection of foods I can’t eat (sour cream, cheese) and foods I don’t like (pickled things, boiled eggs, cilantro, mayonnaise)

[ken · Rating 5 out of 5]

One of my favorite restaurants inspiring me to cook Soviet-style at home! Get this book and clear your schedule for a whole day so you can make the Short Rib Borsch! You’ll want to serve it to friends to show off! So worth the effort. And from dumplings to stuffed cabbage to adult beverages, it is all exquisite!

[Olya · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great collection of recipes. Some steps are easier to follow of you know the end result than if you've never seen that dish before.

[Krysten · Rating 5 out of 5]

this book is heartbreakingly fucking beautiful just as a standalone piece of art and I can't wait to try literally every recipe in it. (It's Soviet food tho.)

[C. Varn · Rating 4 out of 5]

This a wonderful cookbook, but it is not about Russian cooking as much as the cooking of the cultures of the greater Soviet sphere. The recipes are slightly modernized and westernized from my understanding and I find the instructions fairly clear. The design is excellent.

[Assaph Mehr · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is (almost) as much a memoir as it is a cookbook, but it will certainly make you fall in love with Russian cooking.

With sections ranging from drinks and pickles, through homestyle and BBQ cooking, to impressing guests at parties, this book covers a lot of ground. There are both traditional and regional recipes, from classic favourites to soviet era 'we-grew-up-on-this'. Each section and recipe are accompanied by a short introduction which is fun to read in itself, with clear instructions and enticing pictures.

Morales is a restaurateur and knows her kitchen, but be aware that the cuisine represent what the daughter of émigrés from the 70's would have experienced. This slants the selection of recipes into the more Belarusian region and Soviet eras (some of my Russian friends raised eyebrows at a few recipes and techniques, leading to spirited discussions and a rabbit-hole of food history), and the recipes have been adapted to a western environment (which isn't always bad, especially for those of us not having the whole day to cook).

I'd recommend this book to anyone who wants to learn more about Russian cooking, and have some fun doing it. It's not a traditional cookbook, but the recipes are clear and easy to recreate at home - all the extras just make it a joy to read for itself.
--
Assaph Mehr, author of Murder In Absentia: A story of Togas, Daggers, and Magic - for lovers of Ancient Rome, Murder Mysteries, and Urban Fantasy.

[Cody Bennett · Rating 5 out of 5]

I have been reading this book on an off for a few weeks picking out certain recipes that I would love to try. After just finishing the book I was a little hesitant of writing a review after reading some of the things said about this book. Let me just put it out there right now I am not wanting to start arguments or anything of that nature. I just want to put my two cents in review form.
First off I loved this book from beginning to end. I know it’s not real “Russian cooking” some of it is and others dishes have been taken from other Russian regions. After all Russia has over 150 different ethnic groups so what exactly is true Russian cooking!?
Second, it’s a book about her heritage and that hit pretty close to home with me as my girlfriend is from Vladivostok and she remembers growing up eating a lot of these dishes. After visiting Russia myself I completely understand why the author wanted to collect and compile all these different recipes. They are truly amazing as home cooked meals!!
Lastly, I live in Portland and visit Kachinka (now the bar version of Kachka) and it is an amazing experience. I ended up spending my 30th birthday there surrounded by friends and family. The author brought her cookbook to life in form of the restaurants.
In conclusion, yes the book is not perfect and if you can look through the flaws of the linguistics you will discover a world very few of us have truly lived in and been apart of personally. I saw just flip open the book try and recipe and enjoy!! :)

[san ✿ · Rating 5 out of 5]

all the salty soviets in the reviews lmao

kachka is cookbook by renowned restauranteur bonnie frumkin morales of portland, oregon. her titular restaurant, kachka, is a jewel of a city already overloaded with amazing eating options - and something rarely seen in the states. there you'll find as many russian-speaking diners as americans, and be treated to dishes that somehow, incredibly, manage to be both inviting to portland locals and true to their roots. her borsch and shuba taste just how your own mama would make, her pelmeni outclass any other you'll ever taste, and even her more inventive dishes incorporate beloved staples like semichki and beets. this book serves as a way to bring kachka to your own kitchen.

the confusion lies within the 'russian' titling. frumkin morales, who is belarusian-american herself, has not made a purely russian cookbook. the name kachka itself is a ukrainian word, and inside you'll find recipes lifted from georgia, uzbekistan, and beyond. i'm sure the title is a marketing choice, because if you make that little semantic switch, everything falls into place. and it really is a beautifully well-done cookbook; it imparts not just great recipes but cultural context and personality. some may be offended that this book doesn't reflect their own experiences and takes liberties that fall outside their expectations, but that's the thing about cooking - it's so very personal. kachka is a reflection of one person's culinary experience as an immigrant from the ussr, and it manages to elevate it in a way that most could never dream of.

[Robert Muller · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is the best "Russian" cookbook I've seen, and I'm seriously considering scheduling a trip to Portland to eat at the restaurant! The best part of the cookbook is of course the food, but the narrative and notes run a very close second. The index makes for heavy reading, but everything else in the book is so well written and coherent that I read straight through it in a few days. The recipes are detailed and thoughtful and include weights as well as volume, and the details on constructing a meal (and the zakuski table in particular) are wonderful. I love the graphics that wipe away the complexities of the myriad variations on things like all the dumplings. I love the flavored vodkas and the recipe for kvas. I immediately went online and bought a pelmenitsa, which was new to me. I would have liked a more thorough grounding in soups, but that's probably a book by itself (hint, hint). And another book on an even bigger array of zakuski!

[Kate]

My rule for cookbooks is that I have to make a recipe from each one before I mark it "read," and...I'm sort of cheating with this one, because I haven't had time to make the recipe I bookmarked. But, I had to return it to the library, and I did really enjoy it. The headnotes alone are pretty fun, and I was a fan as soon as I saw the photographic guide to Russian chocolates in the back matter. If you, like me, enjoy Russian grocery store bulk bins, you will be happy with this cookbook.

(For the record, I took a photo of the chicken kebab recipe, which I feel like I can recreate to a certain extent under the broiler...the directions suggest you marinate chicken thigh in kefir, onions, and herbs for 24 hours and then grill, so I'm going to try to riff on that one when I have a chance to spend time on a cooking project.)

[Rachel · Rating 4 out of 5]

I see a lot of reviews here with questions about the authenticity of this book - whether it should be called "Russian cooking" when the author is Belorussian and the book covers cuisines from all over the former Soviet Union.

I am unqualified to give an opinion on this, so I can only tell you what I do know. This cookbook - which contains both dozens of recipes, background on different elements of the cuisines in question, cultural explanations, and many stories - strongly evokes a sense of place and time, led me to greater understanding of a set of cuisines and foodways I know very little about, and strongly inspired me to infuse vodka, pickle vegetables, and maybe give cured fish another try. I was hungry and spellbound throughout, and that certainly makes this an effective cookbook.

[Erin DeLaney · Rating 3 out of 5]

I don't usually read cookbooks all the way through, but was drawn to the way she wove her family story in with the recipes.

I picked this up because I thought to myself that I didn't know what Russian/soviet food was and wondered why I hadn't ever cooked it. Reading this book helped me understand why: it is a cuisine based on a number of foods I really don't like. I'm picky with mustard, pickled things, fish, pickled fish, mayo, mushrooms, and parts of animals I didn't grow up eating. But this book has piqued my curiosity and I've been enjoying making my way through the (wonderful) recipes. I especially recommend the Salmon Fleurette if you have enough time on your hands to for an epic dish.

[Daria · Rating 5 out of 5]

As a Russian, this book was incredible and incorporated so much culture and traditions in between the recipes - growing up in this culture I absolutely loved it! The food looks absolutely delicious, very excited to make some of the cocktails with the Russian twist later and I even laughed a couple of times while reading the book!
Love love love & will be recommending to those who want to make authentic & delicious russian recipes :)
After going thru MANY Russian/Ukrainian cuisine books together with my mom (and she’s not easy to please) we had agreed that this is the only book you need to make a true Russian feast at home (and pick up some traditional Russian snacks from the neighborhood European store).

[Tatiana · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fabulous book

As someone who remembers life in the Soviet Union, this book is an excellent window into Soviet cuisine. We still eat like this, and these dishes are well loved on our tables. Many times when I see recipes for borscht or olivier salad they are too far removed from the canon, but the dishes in this book are really close to our family favorites, giving it instant legitimacy. And where the recipes do deviate, they do so thoughtfully and with an eye for improvement, the deviations make sense. Fabulous book, great story and it’s now my dream to visit the restaurant.

[Jennie · Rating 5 out of 5]

I was torn a bit between four and five stars, but this book is such a joy to read I had to go with five. The recipes I've tried have been amazing. I highly recommend the recipe for Georgian Lobio, if you make nothing else. If you like beets and pickles, the Vinegret Salad is amazing; if you don't... well, more for those of us who do, right? Some of the dishes seem a little impractical but it is, after all, a chef's cookbook. I'd love to make hundreds of pelmeni. Maybe someday I'll have a few free hours to do so.

[Aasinathena · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a beautifully created book. From family stories,the late Russian federation and its prosperity is quite a story to read. But the author herself is not Russian. So this book has to be subtitled as "return to Russian federation cooking " or " Recipes from Russian federation days" . One of my best friends' is Russian. And she too spoke vividly about the content. So THIS HAS TO BE FROM RUSSIAN FEDERATION DAYS.

Other than that,book is full of beautifully photographed recipes. Maybe be its even worth make this permanent if you want to cook from those golden days of Russia.

[Ambur Taft · Rating 5 out of 5]

Lovely, not just the pictures and the food, but also the stories. “Food from the former Soviet Union”, the drinks and meals and pickled delights look fantastic....the stories about herself growing up, her parents immigrating, and her grandmother staying alive are awesome, along with snippets of Soviet Union history & folklore. I am also pretty excited about trying out the remedies and the art of the pyanka.
I will definitely be visiting her restaurant in Portland as soon as possible.

[Melissa Mitchell · Rating 5 out of 5]

I was looking to try out a new ethnic cookbook when I came across this one. I've never tried Russian cooking. So, I was delighted to read the recipes are from the former Soviet Union. I enjoyed her down to earth writing style, retelling of personal family stories, and beautiful pictures of her family & food. I found the recipe ingredients easily accessible for the most part, and the recipes ranged between beginner to experienced cook.

[Daisy · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is funny and oh-so informative. It's an homage to her family too which makes it a sentimental and wonderful book to have created and to hold close to her heart (I'd imagine). The photographs and the graphic designs are terrific too, with amusing charts about chocolate and caviar and how to shop in a Russian market. And how to toast properly. And it's got wonderful (superstitious-y0 home remedies. I love this book.

[Carol · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'm giving 4 stars only because I haven't tried the recipes. It certainly makes me want to go to her restaurant in Portland, OR. This cookbook would be a nice companion to Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking - whereas that was a wonderful memoir with a few recipes, this is lots of recipes with a few entertaining stories.

[RL · Rating 4 out of 5]

beautiful, funny, interesting recipes and i love the anecdotes. would definitely make a few of these, especially the awesome section on infused spirits and the short rib borscht looks phenomenal. i have been lucky enough to eat at kachka twice in portland. yes, i did immediately buy a pelmini mold on amazon...

[Karla · Rating 5 out of 5]

I have a list ... of wonderful things I'm making.... I've reviewed a lot of cookbooks, and this is one which is so well presented it has to be in my home. From the lobio, the dacha, pumpkin dolmas or sirniki with raspberry kissel, it's hard to decide which to make first. The author gives plenty of details and there is a TON of additional information about Russia and the culture. BUY THIS.

[Riegs · Rating 4 out of 5]

I agree with many of the other commenters that this is less about Russian food, and more about the states and ethnic groups of the former USSR. To me, it would've been better to market it that way, because it would've better demonstrated the diversity of recipes within a culinary tradition. Great recipes, explanation of culture.

[Brianna · Rating 4 out of 5]

Beautiful cookbook highlighting recipes from the author's restaurant in PDX that I would now like to visit. I am not that familiar with Russian cuisine, but the cookbook made me want to try more recipes. Would check out again

[Justin · Rating 4 out of 5]

A good cookbook (though I usually like novel cookbooks). With my dietary restrictions there wasn't much here for me personally, but it looks like those who eat Russian cuisine would like it. The dumpling section was quite nice!

[Brad · Rating 5 out of 5]

Beautiful book

I love the variety of recipes from liqueurs and mixed drinks to pickles and everything in between. I highly recommend, for cooking and for the cultural immersion as well.