Mother daughter duo, Marjorie Taylor and Kendall Smith Franchini, established a French cooking school in Burgundy, and this book chronicles establishing the school and the recipes. They bring significant experience to this undertaking in both cooking and wine, and the book showcases their experience in recipes and in pictures.
This is a large book that may function more as a coffee table book than a cookbook. Lots of pictures feature collections and food in arty arrangements as well as expansive scenery. If nothing else, the book may awake an interest to visit this beautiful place and explore the shop that sells so many of these tools featured in the pictures. The more serious may settle in to read the 60 pages of introduction that includes many pictures but also discussions on wine (primarily burgundy), cheese, cooking philosophy, tools, larder and the really dedicated will attempt to recipes organized by season. Short essays on local purveyors are also included. At the end of the book, the authors explain basic cooking techniques like how to prepare mushrooms or use a knife. Some of these techniques are disputed like not rinsing mushrooms and some of the techniques suggest a level of perfection that is not necessary even if it might be desirable like using farm fresh eggs in a copper bowl for whisking whites. This level of perfection can be off-putting to beginning cooks. Others techniques are quite useful like blanching multiple ingredients in the same pan by starting with the most delicate.
The recipes reflect the cooking school philosophy which is a mix of traditional French techniques, seasonal ingredients and developing an intuition for cooking. Some of these ingredients may be difficult to get in the US like tiny strawberries or heirloom cucumbers. Given the importance of ingredients in these recipes (and how few there are) substituting may significantly affect the quality and or taste.
The equipment section is useful for anyone thinking of buying any kitchen tools. The authors explain what they use and why, and cooks can learn a lot from this section. The larder section emphasizes pure as in little altered from the original as possible, and it’s a strong contrast from Jacques Pepin’s larder where he talks about revitalizing celery in its last leg and using old, moldy cheese. The authors of this book seem to be more perfectionist.
Recipes are clearly written and emphasize the pure flavors of individual ingredients with careful preparation and composed plates. Dishes are generally not complicated but they are careful. The food is beautiful but it requires patience. For learning French techniques of blanching or making a sauce for example, this would be good practice.
This is a beautiful book, but it can be intimidating.