"The finest flavored beer in the market. Be sure and try, and you will be convinced. Warranted to be the same at all times. Ask for it, drink no other." In 1887, these were bold words about the City Brewery's new beer with the pearly bubbles, considering how the recent flood of German immigrants to Central Texas brought along expert fermentation. As that business evolved into the San Antonio Brewing Association, XXX Pearl Beer became the mainstay of the largest brewery in the state. Its smokestack formed an intrinsic part of the San Antonio skyline. A regional powerhouse for more than a century, it was the only Texas brewery to survive Prohibition. It also endured the onslaught of a president's scandalous death and Lone Star's fierce rivalry. Grab a pint and join author Jeremy Banas for a tour of Texas's most iconic brewery.
An attorney and former Louisiana state senator, Bill Jones participated in the family business of ranching and learned to cowboy at an early age. Following college, he worked for two years in the cattle business then attended LSU law school, receiving a J.D. in 1974. Jones practices law and runs cattle in Ruston, Louisiana.
I don't really drink, and if I do, it is even more rare if I choose beer. So why did I pick up this cute little history book on Pearl Beer? Because it gave me some San Antonio history, my hometown and a place where I don't happen to read a lot about through my usual channels, and because I remember how the Pearl District was revitalized from a skeleton of a building to the great international attraction it is today. I basically lived out a portion of that history myself, so it was just cool to see it fleshed out by someone who had access to records and photos.
Jeremy Banas took the reader all the way back to the mid-19th century, and through the official start of this brewery in the 1880s. He then takes the reader stage by stage through the entire chronological development of the company, all the main players involved, and the way things went from the end of operations as a beer producer to the beginning of things as a mixed use cultural area that includes restaurants, bars, a farmers' market, a culinary school, an extension of the river, and the Hotel Emma.
The story of the Koehler family, from Otto to the three Emmas to the nephew Otto A. and even the connection to the Pace family is laid out. It's not the most exciting read, to be blunt, but there is plenty of relatable information to get through (at least for a San Antonian like myself) to keep things interesting.
Pearl: A History of San Antonio's Iconic Beer is a well-done historical account of the rise and fall of the legendary local brew. Pearl begins with the story of Otto Koehler, founder of the brewery, and the meteoric growth experienced. The author organizes the history of the brand in phases and follows Otto and wife Emma through the latter part of the 19th century and into Prohibition (although only one of them survives!). The interesting diversity of the company's offerings through Prohibition show the reader what it took to survive those hard time for beer brands, as most did not make it like the Pearl did. Later, as the company blew through the 50s and 60s in its last decades as an independent enterprise, Banas lays out all the strange and wonderful ways Pearl saturated San Antonio history. It is amazing to think that this brand existed throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, only closing in the early years of the 21st. Finally, Banas accounts the new iteration of the Pearl as Goldsbury (introduction) brewed up the revival that is continuing to grow and thrive today. Excellent read for history buffs as well as San Antonio residents looking for a local brew (and some extra trivia to impress friends on weekends at the Liberty Bar). Cheers!
Interesting bit of Texas brewing history. However, like most titles from this publisher (American Palate) it is sorely in need of a good editor. 2.5 stars, rounded up.