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The Land Beyond: A Thousand Miles on Foot through the Heart of the Middle East
There are many reasons why it might seem unwise to walk, mostly alone, through the Middle East. That, in part, is exactly why Leon McCarron did it.
From Jerusalem, McCarron followed a series of wild hiking trails that trace ancient trading and pilgrimage routes and traverse some of the most contested landscapes in the world. In the West Bank, he met families struggling to lead normal lives amidst political turmoil and had a surreal encounter with the world's oldest and smallest religious sect. In Jordan he visited the ruins of Hellenic citadels and trekked through the legendary Wadi Rum. His journey culminated in the vast deserts of the Sinai, home to Bedouin tribes and haunted by the ghosts of biblical history.
McCarron's journey led him back through time, from the quagmire of current geopolitics to the original ideals of the faithful, through the layers of history, culture and religion that have shaped the Holy Land. Along migration and trade routes, pilgrimage trails and Bedouin paths, he found connection rather than division, hope instead of hatred and, ultimately, a shared humanity that borders and politics will never diminish.
From Jerusalem, McCarron followed a series of wild hiking trails that trace ancient trading and pilgrimage routes and traverse some of the most contested landscapes in the world. In the West Bank, he met families struggling to lead normal lives amidst political turmoil and had a surreal encounter with the world's oldest and smallest religious sect. In Jordan he visited the ruins of Hellenic citadels and trekked through the legendary Wadi Rum. His journey culminated in the vast deserts of the Sinai, home to Bedouin tribes and haunted by the ghosts of biblical history.
McCarron's journey led him back through time, from the quagmire of current geopolitics to the original ideals of the faithful, through the layers of history, culture and religion that have shaped the Holy Land. Along migration and trade routes, pilgrimage trails and Bedouin paths, he found connection rather than division, hope instead of hatred and, ultimately, a shared humanity that borders and politics will never diminish.
224 pages, Kindle Edition
Published August 30, 2017
34 people are currently reading
422 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 32 reviews
February 25, 2023
In brief - I did find this interesting - very in places - however I wasn't gripped by it.
In full
From Jerusalem the author follows a number of hiking trails, some ancient - some newer, through the West Bank and into Jordan. From here he walks into the Sinai desert and meets Bedouins. His ultimate goal is to walk up Mt Sinai. During his journey he meets a variety of people as he goes. The book is wide ranging. Landscape, history - ancient and modern, politics and the lives of locals in modern times all get a look in.
Starting in Jerusalem there is a real feel of the past in this writing. However it is a past brought vividly up to date.
In the early part of this the troubles and political tensions are a large part of the story. The author does say that he attempts to take a balanced view however there are times when this is hard to do. Inevitably McCarron walks past the Barrier. He offers some interesting information on the growth of this phenomenon - border walls - in our modern times; it is almost solely a modern concept. Once in the West Bank the Barrier is literally viewed quite differently. People say that they used to talk to the folk on the other side and now they can't... He also visits the Samaritans - the original sect of that name. I found his observations on them very interesting.
From there he heads south on the east bank and into a national park. The journey, initially with a companion, moves across the Jordan and into Arab lands properly. It is here that his companion is forced to abandon the trip permanently and McCarron heads back north to restart his adventure.
On his way south again he visits Petra. I've always been fascinated by Petra and so I particularly enjoyed this part of the book. He works in quite a lot of information about the place from Lawrence back to the man who rediscovered it. Here, as elsewhere in the book, he looks at the ways life is still lived and the attitudes and change that is making itself felt in a modern world.
With the journey into Sinai the trip look on a different feel for me. This is travel through desert. There is little there until Mt Sinai. However it was quite powerful to me; the stories of this ancient area and the Bedouins he meets and those who guide him. The ascent of Mt Sinai leaves you feeling the deep history of the mountain and its place in a number of cultures.
Overall I enjoyed this book although I was never quite gripped by it. It has darkness and humour in it. It has meetings with some wonderful characters. We see such contrast between the ancient and the modern. Parts of it I found both fascinating and informative. For anyone with an interest in the Middle East this would probably make a worthwhile read.
Note - I received an advance digital copy of this book from the publisher in exchange for a fair review
In full
From Jerusalem the author follows a number of hiking trails, some ancient - some newer, through the West Bank and into Jordan. From here he walks into the Sinai desert and meets Bedouins. His ultimate goal is to walk up Mt Sinai. During his journey he meets a variety of people as he goes. The book is wide ranging. Landscape, history - ancient and modern, politics and the lives of locals in modern times all get a look in.
Starting in Jerusalem there is a real feel of the past in this writing. However it is a past brought vividly up to date.
In the early part of this the troubles and political tensions are a large part of the story. The author does say that he attempts to take a balanced view however there are times when this is hard to do. Inevitably McCarron walks past the Barrier. He offers some interesting information on the growth of this phenomenon - border walls - in our modern times; it is almost solely a modern concept. Once in the West Bank the Barrier is literally viewed quite differently. People say that they used to talk to the folk on the other side and now they can't... He also visits the Samaritans - the original sect of that name. I found his observations on them very interesting.
From there he heads south on the east bank and into a national park. The journey, initially with a companion, moves across the Jordan and into Arab lands properly. It is here that his companion is forced to abandon the trip permanently and McCarron heads back north to restart his adventure.
On his way south again he visits Petra. I've always been fascinated by Petra and so I particularly enjoyed this part of the book. He works in quite a lot of information about the place from Lawrence back to the man who rediscovered it. Here, as elsewhere in the book, he looks at the ways life is still lived and the attitudes and change that is making itself felt in a modern world.
With the journey into Sinai the trip look on a different feel for me. This is travel through desert. There is little there until Mt Sinai. However it was quite powerful to me; the stories of this ancient area and the Bedouins he meets and those who guide him. The ascent of Mt Sinai leaves you feeling the deep history of the mountain and its place in a number of cultures.
Overall I enjoyed this book although I was never quite gripped by it. It has darkness and humour in it. It has meetings with some wonderful characters. We see such contrast between the ancient and the modern. Parts of it I found both fascinating and informative. For anyone with an interest in the Middle East this would probably make a worthwhile read.
Note - I received an advance digital copy of this book from the publisher in exchange for a fair review
January 16, 2018
Leon McCarron is different to most. Not only has he walked from Mongolia, right across China to Hong Kong, he has crossed the Empty Quarter in the footsteps of Sir Wilfred Thesiger and has cycled right the way across America. So if you were to ask people to list places where they'd like to take a walk, then the Middle East is unlikely to be at the top of that list. McCarron though relishes a challenge, so a 1000 mile walk from Jerusalem to the heights of Mount Sinai begins.
A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step". Lao Tzu
He will be following a set of trails that have been recently re-established but trace their origins back to the ancient trading and pilgrimage routes that crisscross the landscapes of the West Bank, Palestine and into Jordan. It is a hotly contested region, that is still subject to aggression and violence, especially in the West Bank. He is accompanied by friends and guides along the way and sees some of the most beautiful landscapes as he walks through. Apart from one tiny incident with some exuberant teenagers, all the people that he meets are warm and welcoming and generous with their time and experience.
I suspect that the mind, like the feet, works at about three miles an hour - Rebecca Solnit
These troubled lands are affected by the volatile mix that is geopolitics, cultural differences and religion, but as McCarron finds on his walk, people are the essence of this place that can trace its history back thousands of years. There are some people who want to ensure that the differences are amplified and use that to drive wedges between people, but there are many others who want to live in peace in their own country and trade with their immediate neighbours. One nice touch to the book is the photo of all those who walked with him on his journey to Sinai. This book is a great insight into a troubled land that could only have been achieved at the speed of a walk.
A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step". Lao Tzu
He will be following a set of trails that have been recently re-established but trace their origins back to the ancient trading and pilgrimage routes that crisscross the landscapes of the West Bank, Palestine and into Jordan. It is a hotly contested region, that is still subject to aggression and violence, especially in the West Bank. He is accompanied by friends and guides along the way and sees some of the most beautiful landscapes as he walks through. Apart from one tiny incident with some exuberant teenagers, all the people that he meets are warm and welcoming and generous with their time and experience.
I suspect that the mind, like the feet, works at about three miles an hour - Rebecca Solnit
These troubled lands are affected by the volatile mix that is geopolitics, cultural differences and religion, but as McCarron finds on his walk, people are the essence of this place that can trace its history back thousands of years. There are some people who want to ensure that the differences are amplified and use that to drive wedges between people, but there are many others who want to live in peace in their own country and trade with their immediate neighbours. One nice touch to the book is the photo of all those who walked with him on his journey to Sinai. This book is a great insight into a troubled land that could only have been achieved at the speed of a walk.
September 30, 2017
For those even remotely considering a walk in the Middle East, this book is a must. And if you think that a walk through one of the world's most politically troubled regions is a crazy idea - as many do - that's just another reason to pick up this book and make your own journey of discovery.
Leon tells a personal story of his recent 1000 mile walk through the West Bank, Jordon and southern Sinai but he skilfully weaves into his narrative a brief historical survey of the places he visits and the stories of the many people he meets. This makes the book simultaneously inspiring, informative and very easy to read. Leon's relaxed and sometimes self-deprecating style of story-telling charms. His courage in making this journey awes. But overall there is a clear point to his story - that a walk like this, if not physically easy, is accessible to anyone.
And the rewards for taking a walk through the book, as through the region, are many - not least as a means to experiencing legendary kindness, wisdom and an astonishingly diverse and beautiful landscape.
Leon tells a personal story of his recent 1000 mile walk through the West Bank, Jordon and southern Sinai but he skilfully weaves into his narrative a brief historical survey of the places he visits and the stories of the many people he meets. This makes the book simultaneously inspiring, informative and very easy to read. Leon's relaxed and sometimes self-deprecating style of story-telling charms. His courage in making this journey awes. But overall there is a clear point to his story - that a walk like this, if not physically easy, is accessible to anyone.
And the rewards for taking a walk through the book, as through the region, are many - not least as a means to experiencing legendary kindness, wisdom and an astonishingly diverse and beautiful landscape.
September 27, 2024
Walking through the the Holy Land, the birhplace of three major monotheistic religions, Leon blends the issues of the area with the description of the land, its history and inevitably the unfailing and characteristic hospitality and kindness of the Arabs. This is a truly worthy read for everyone interested in hiking, Middle East, religion or simply, humanity.
I guess I had been a bit naive to think that a book about long-distance hiking in the region of Palestine could avoid the intricate and troubled politics of the region. But as it turned out, I shared this naivity with the author. Inevitably I learned a lot about the issue through this book and it sparked an interest to learn more.
As a hiker myself, I also enjoyed the anectodes related to the sufferings and troubles of the man on foot.
I guess I had been a bit naive to think that a book about long-distance hiking in the region of Palestine could avoid the intricate and troubled politics of the region. But as it turned out, I shared this naivity with the author. Inevitably I learned a lot about the issue through this book and it sparked an interest to learn more.
As a hiker myself, I also enjoyed the anectodes related to the sufferings and troubles of the man on foot.
January 16, 2021
Fantastic blueprint for how to do travel/adventure writing without being problematic.
January 28, 2018
Travel to the Middle East with Leon and his book
When I was given this book to read my first thought was - walking through the Middle East? It would be amazing no doubt but my sensible head wondered if this was even possible and wise?
Well Leon is the man to show you! It read like my own journey of discovery and he writes like you are there with him, with the sights, sounds and smells.
What I liked about this is that it’s a really personal challenge as well as being really informative about the history, the various peoples and religions he meets along the way. He’s so self-deprecating but you feel like saying to him - do you realise what a huge challenge this was to do and how much you’ve achieved? He’s everything you want in a guide - witty, informative and knows all the best places off the beaten track.
It’s one heck of an interesting journey and the best bit for me was he walked through and detailed the old trails from the past with historic and political links which was fascinating! I’d not read about some of these before.
A fascinating read! Highly recommended.
March 7, 2018
While most of us struggle to leave our weekly routines of home, work and other commitments, Leon McCarron seems set on exploring the world. Not just seeing or visiting, but exploring. By cycling and walking on his adventures he gives himself the time to take in the landscapes around him, and meet lots of people who might otherwise be missed. If you've read The Road Headed West or watched Into the Empty Quarter then you'll know McCarron is a seasoned traveller; one who listens to the concerns of loved ones about his plans, and then politely ignores them. The Land Beyond chronicles his thousand-mile journey from Jerusalem to Mount Sinai. On his journey he copes with the disappointment of losing a travelling companion to injury, personal sickness and frustrating bureaucracy; but his focus is always on the warm hospitality he is met with throughout by the locals. While much of the book is filled with talk and thoughts about the politics of the West Bank, it's understandable that most of his conversations with the people living there were about this very topic; and I appreciate his attention to detail. This is very much an interesting read.
October 4, 2017
Was thrilled to open this in my post box. I'm a hiker. Nothing in my dreams ever called me to hike the Middle East. I've finished the Appalachian Trail, Pacific Crest in two halves, a GR, and others but never this trek. "Walking is good for us it makes people less fat and more intelligent." Yes Leon I believe you hold water from the fountain of youth for the brain. As Leon travels the West Bank, Jordan and Sinai, the Holy Land of all humans he shares history, landscape and the essence of a pilgrimage.
Highly recommend, more than five stars
Highly recommend, more than five stars
May 17, 2022
One of my favorite parts was Ruman the camel and Ahmad having an argument over a cucumber.
March 19, 2020
One of the best travel journals I've read! Leon McCarron hits just the right balance of describing the places, pondering history, characterising the people, and expressing emotion. To me, that means there's much to learn, based on checked facts, but the story still flows and is filled with interesting rendezvous. The author's reflection on a day's events is not just fluffy feeling but a proper though process. He is able to provide multiple aspects of history, politics, religion, experiences, etc. while delivering the story with good humour.
The book is a journal of a thousand miles hike in the Middle East. Leon McCarron lifts his backbag and walks in Israel, West Bank, Jordan, and Sinai desert. He meets lots of people (men, as this is the Middle East), eats in strange places, and sleeps in hotels, hostels, tent, wherever. The story is interesting on many levels.
* First, there's the idea of self-sustained very long distance walking.
* Second, the environment is challenging as it's mostly very dry, mountaneous desert.
* Third, the Middle East politics are a mess. It's rare that someone level-headed goes to see what it's actually like and then write such a deep book about it.
I gather it was not a walk in the park, but not necessarily so dangerous either. McCarron is not dogmatic about his walk: it's not a survivor story but an exploration. Sometimes he walks alone, sometimes with friends, sometimes with a bigger group and a guide.
I would have liked to read more about the practicalities. How does one go about the basic needs on the road? How do you purify water, how to charge your mobile, where's the toilet, ... I guess that's because the book inspired me to start drafting a longer walk of my own.
Recommended to those interested in the landscape in Jordan, Petra, Sinai and Israel. Or those interested in what the geopolitical mess of the Middle East looks like on the grass roots level.
The book is a journal of a thousand miles hike in the Middle East. Leon McCarron lifts his backbag and walks in Israel, West Bank, Jordan, and Sinai desert. He meets lots of people (men, as this is the Middle East), eats in strange places, and sleeps in hotels, hostels, tent, wherever. The story is interesting on many levels.
* First, there's the idea of self-sustained very long distance walking.
* Second, the environment is challenging as it's mostly very dry, mountaneous desert.
* Third, the Middle East politics are a mess. It's rare that someone level-headed goes to see what it's actually like and then write such a deep book about it.
I gather it was not a walk in the park, but not necessarily so dangerous either. McCarron is not dogmatic about his walk: it's not a survivor story but an exploration. Sometimes he walks alone, sometimes with friends, sometimes with a bigger group and a guide.
I would have liked to read more about the practicalities. How does one go about the basic needs on the road? How do you purify water, how to charge your mobile, where's the toilet, ... I guess that's because the book inspired me to start drafting a longer walk of my own.
Recommended to those interested in the landscape in Jordan, Petra, Sinai and Israel. Or those interested in what the geopolitical mess of the Middle East looks like on the grass roots level.
July 7, 2023
Hiking to optimism in a sad land
McCarron’s long hike allowed him to observe the intractable political realities of the (Un)holy Land, which we observe on TV screens almost daily. But hiking brought him to the Micro-Picture of numerous kind and generous people, which makes the author and this reader a little more optimistic. Will everybody’s macro-political fears ever be overcome by the kindness and good will of ordinary people? Probably not. But what else can there be done? — I found the book informative and the author’s effort to remain unbiased, objective and balanced absolutely honorable. Nevertheless, he ultimately sympathises with the underdogs, I.e. the Palestinians. That conclusion comes across as honest, because it is arrived at so reluctantly.
McCarron’s long hike allowed him to observe the intractable political realities of the (Un)holy Land, which we observe on TV screens almost daily. But hiking brought him to the Micro-Picture of numerous kind and generous people, which makes the author and this reader a little more optimistic. Will everybody’s macro-political fears ever be overcome by the kindness and good will of ordinary people? Probably not. But what else can there be done? — I found the book informative and the author’s effort to remain unbiased, objective and balanced absolutely honorable. Nevertheless, he ultimately sympathises with the underdogs, I.e. the Palestinians. That conclusion comes across as honest, because it is arrived at so reluctantly.
November 19, 2021
At one point the author describes how he is probably lost, but asks "does it count as being lost if you're not sure where you want to go?". This, it turns out, to be a fantastic analogy for the whole book. Meeeandering.
Every chapter includes a little narrative on backpacking around and meeting interesting people... and also a whole heap of helpful information like: "Unlike the rest of Egypt, which fell under the Roman control in 30 BC, Sinai was annexed from Nabateans much later by the Emperor Trajan when it became part of Arabia Petra, an area that also included the southern Levant, the northern portion of the Arabian Peninsula and much of Jordan".
Every chapter includes a little narrative on backpacking around and meeting interesting people... and also a whole heap of helpful information like: "Unlike the rest of Egypt, which fell under the Roman control in 30 BC, Sinai was annexed from Nabateans much later by the Emperor Trajan when it became part of Arabia Petra, an area that also included the southern Levant, the northern portion of the Arabian Peninsula and much of Jordan".
December 18, 2018
I'm fascinated by books about people taking long walks, and this one was especially interesting because he was visiting a part of the world I'll probably never visit. I probably would have given this book 5 stars except for two issues: There were a significant number of typos. The footnotes in the back of the book were not simply references, but continuations of the main text. I completely recommend the book, but be warned that you might find yourself wishing for a better editor...
July 25, 2021
A beautifully written book, full of warmth and humour. Just enough history of each place without getting bogged down and great explanations of the political view points of all sides. He meets weird and wonderful characters and I enjoyed hearing what he ate in the local towns. I found his comparisons of the troubles in Ireland and the conflicts in the Middle East interesting. An author I will return to again.
November 24, 2024
3.5 stars
I liked this book, though I felt the ending was dragging a bit. It’s also somewhat dated now, as the region is ever-changing of course. I also think that if someone has a way to amplify the voices of Palestinians, like Coates in “The Message”, then he should do so. I understand Leon’s point of view of keeping politics as detached as possible from his narration, but I wish he highlighted the situation of apartheid he encountered.
I liked this book, though I felt the ending was dragging a bit. It’s also somewhat dated now, as the region is ever-changing of course. I also think that if someone has a way to amplify the voices of Palestinians, like Coates in “The Message”, then he should do so. I understand Leon’s point of view of keeping politics as detached as possible from his narration, but I wish he highlighted the situation of apartheid he encountered.
July 24, 2020
I found this book engrossing and fascinating. Walking in the Middle East is not a task for faint of heart but reading about it was great.
I like the mix of travelogue and history and I like how the author deals with the political issues of the area.
It's highly recommended.
Many thanks to the publisher and Netgalley for this ARC, all opinions are mine.
I like the mix of travelogue and history and I like how the author deals with the political issues of the area.
It's highly recommended.
Many thanks to the publisher and Netgalley for this ARC, all opinions are mine.
December 18, 2023
Classic travel writing, going beyond the normal routes, yet following a well trodden path - apparently there are long established walking trails in this part of the Middle East.
Filled with insights - both amusing and historical, this is a hugely engaging and very satisfying read, which I greatly enjoyed.
Filled with insights - both amusing and historical, this is a hugely engaging and very satisfying read, which I greatly enjoyed.
Read
August 18, 2020Well researched book giving insight into the Palestinian lands. Descriptions give clear pictures of the scene without being heavy and overdone. No conclusions are drawn about the Palestinian/Israeli troubles leaving the reader freedom to take his own perspective.
An excellent book.
An excellent book.
March 6, 2021
Loved this book. I was in the Middle East this time last year and I loved it, and I found everyone there so welcoming and warm, particularly in Jordan. I loved reading about the author’s adventures there and about the people he met. Didn’t want this one to end.
December 23, 2023
An interesting account of Leon's very long walk through the West Bank, Jordan and the Sinai. His descriptions are great and he obviously met interesting people on his travels. This book was published in 2017 so it is thought provoking in terms of the present situation.
December 29, 2020
I thoroughly enjoyed this book, full of insight into Leon's walking adventure in the middle East. I enjoyed the people he met, the scenery he describes and the thoughts he has on the way. It was so interesting!
January 2, 2021
Interesting 'walk'. Loved the interactions with the local guides and people along the way. Made me want to visit some of the sites, especially Petra in Jordan.
January 16, 2021
Interesting. I've learned alot about the people and the history of the Middle East
February 4, 2021
Much better than I had expected. Very well written and very engaging.
June 16, 2021
informative and inspirational!
April 19, 2022
Great read before travelling in Jordan and doing parts of the Jordan Trail 👌
August 9, 2023
A pleasurable read, interesting stories but not life changing! Read it during the time I was visiting Jordan! So could relate to many things he writes!
April 9, 2025
Loved reading this on Annie’s balcony and in transit to Jordan. Perfect balance of descriptions the people and places of his journey with the history and context of the area.
March 12, 2021
It's much, much more than a travelogue. It's filled with gems - nuggets of information on history, Biblical history and references, and eye-opening cultural, geopolitical, sociopolitical observations that made me thoughtful.
January 13, 2025
A thoughtful and careful account of a veteran if quite young professional trekker from the Irish North who spends five months walking through the West Bank, Jordan, and the Sinai, ending at Mount Horeb in a moving scene. To be fair, he then spends three weeks in Israel, to correct possible distortions picked up in Arab realms--and given many Irish of late (you should hear my family and friends lay on, but on the other hand, click on any journalist from that North Atlantic Archipelago), as well as British, lean towards hostility towards a "Zionist entity"--to round out understandings about the other side on this geological and ideological Great Rift. McCarron's jaunt occurs ca. 2015, while tensions over ISIS in the volatile region rise. I originally reviewed this twenty days into the (latest, alas) Israeli-Hamas conflict. As I update it at the start of 2025, my curiosity only deepens.
I wanted to learn more about both the Palestinian predicament on the ground and the "feel" in their beleaguered neighbor as Jordan, literally smack/ed in the middle of the Middle East maelstrom. He recounts his humanist walk clearly and patiently. Usually free from any drama. But relative calm is refreshing, as many travelers' tales told by raconteurs from his part of the world tend towards the snide, the satirical, the simpering, and/or the snobbish. What I don't "get" is why so little's penned about Jordan itself, nowadays. Gertrude Bell and Lawrence of Arabia a century ago still loom largest.
Certainly a standout section regaled at least this clumsy, landlubber, awed reader. An account of rock-climbing at its clambering, vertiginous, and jaw-dropping best. This one vignette exemplifies McCarron's attention to its telling detail, its narrative foundation, and its character study milieux.
The chronicler's "borderline" background enables him to listen to everyday folks he meets. (And is there anywhere on the planet free of finicky Teutons, whether Dutch, Flemish, Schweizer, or plain Deutsch?) His conversational descriptions, nuanced observations about the thrust of a Holy Land on its residents ancient--as in Samaritans and Bedouin--or today's settlers and soldiers of the IDF demonstrate his fair-minded intentions to figure out, on a face-to-face dialogue (rather than a press junket, a drive-past truism, or a package tour) intricacies of mundane life off any beaten path.
P.S. It took him too long to explain that he knew Gulf Arabic well enough to converse convincingly with natives. I kept scratching my head for a stretch wondering how he was grasping so much in his chats when for the great majority of his lonely route, he lacked any translator. While the photos appended help one visualize settings, I wish more illustrations were included, and interspersed in the travelogue proper for maximum impact. Insights delving into an under-examined, shrewd, sly, wary Hashemite Kingdom may have narrowed a glaring gap in travel writing. (My net search finds a scarce slew skewing contemporary, save Queen Noor's autobiography, a émigré's memoir, another by a German, inevitably, wanderer marrying a Bedouin man at the tourist mecca of Petra.) It's at a dramatic intersection of adventurers over millennia, a primordial track, Africa bridged into Eurasia.
I wanted to learn more about both the Palestinian predicament on the ground and the "feel" in their beleaguered neighbor as Jordan, literally smack/ed in the middle of the Middle East maelstrom. He recounts his humanist walk clearly and patiently. Usually free from any drama. But relative calm is refreshing, as many travelers' tales told by raconteurs from his part of the world tend towards the snide, the satirical, the simpering, and/or the snobbish. What I don't "get" is why so little's penned about Jordan itself, nowadays. Gertrude Bell and Lawrence of Arabia a century ago still loom largest.
Certainly a standout section regaled at least this clumsy, landlubber, awed reader. An account of rock-climbing at its clambering, vertiginous, and jaw-dropping best. This one vignette exemplifies McCarron's attention to its telling detail, its narrative foundation, and its character study milieux.
The chronicler's "borderline" background enables him to listen to everyday folks he meets. (And is there anywhere on the planet free of finicky Teutons, whether Dutch, Flemish, Schweizer, or plain Deutsch?) His conversational descriptions, nuanced observations about the thrust of a Holy Land on its residents ancient--as in Samaritans and Bedouin--or today's settlers and soldiers of the IDF demonstrate his fair-minded intentions to figure out, on a face-to-face dialogue (rather than a press junket, a drive-past truism, or a package tour) intricacies of mundane life off any beaten path.
P.S. It took him too long to explain that he knew Gulf Arabic well enough to converse convincingly with natives. I kept scratching my head for a stretch wondering how he was grasping so much in his chats when for the great majority of his lonely route, he lacked any translator. While the photos appended help one visualize settings, I wish more illustrations were included, and interspersed in the travelogue proper for maximum impact. Insights delving into an under-examined, shrewd, sly, wary Hashemite Kingdom may have narrowed a glaring gap in travel writing. (My net search finds a scarce slew skewing contemporary, save Queen Noor's autobiography, a émigré's memoir, another by a German, inevitably, wanderer marrying a Bedouin man at the tourist mecca of Petra.) It's at a dramatic intersection of adventurers over millennia, a primordial track, Africa bridged into Eurasia.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 32 reviews