Upwards: The Story of the First Woman to Solo Thru-Paddle the Northern Forest Canoe Trail

by Laurie Apgar Chandler

At age 53, the author journeyed 740 miles in a small canoe, becoming the first woman to solo thru-paddle the Northern Forest Canoe Trail. Upwards is her uplifting story of finding the inner strength and faith to achieve a dream, set amid the rich tapestry of the history, wildlife, landscapes, and people of New England.

Genres: Outdoors, Adventure, Memoir, Nonfiction

216 pages, Paperback

Published October 19, 2017

About the author

Laurie Apgar Chandler's love for wilderness paddling blossomed after 40, when she moved to Maine with her two children. Inspired to write by the beauty of the woods and waters, she began journaling, drawing inspiration from her work in forestry and education, and her faith. In the summer of 2015, at 53, Laurie became the first woman to solo thru-paddle New England's 740-mile Northern Forest Canoe Trail. Laurie lives with her parents in their Bremen, Maine log cabin. She has shared her story with a wide variety of audiences, including civic organizations, libraries, churches, boating and outdoor clubs, and L.L. Bean. Upwards is her first book.

Reviews

[Mike Mikulski · Rating 4 out of 5]

I always like a well told story about a through hike or journey. This summer while reading a blog written by Katina Daanen on her paddle down the Wisconsin River from source to the Mississippi, I learned that she had written a guide book on the Northern Forest Canoe Trail a 740 mile water trail from the Adirondacks in New York to the Ft. Kent, Maine at the far northern portion of the state. Looking at Daanen's guide book on-line, I came across Laurie Apgar Chandler's book on her solo, unassisted thru-paddle of the NFTC.

While there are many trail journals describing the Appalachian Trail, the Pacific Crest Trail, and other journeys, Chandler's book stands from other trail stories because of the unique features of a long water trail and the history of the people and region that surrounds the NFTC. The NFTC was envisioned by it's founders in 2005 as a way to re-trace the water trails of the native tribes who used these routes hundreds of years ago. Chandler's book not only describes her journey but does a great job opening up a view to the history and people of this region.

Upwards is an engaging story of Chandler's journey and paints images of the natural beauty, personal challenges and interesting people she found along the way.

[Laurel E]

A straightforward account from an earnest and hardworking woman. As a nonreligious person, I was surprised to find the religious sentiment sprinkled throughout sincere and endearing. A meandering picture of New England, highlights include delightfully difficult to pronounce lakes, descriptions of town delicacies and desserts, various critters and endless bugs, and scattered tips for the aspiring thru-paddler.

[Diane · Rating 4 out of 5]

once again i have surprised myself by really liking a book that didnt sound like it would be my cup of tea!! i highly recommend this one.

[Thomas · Rating 5 out of 5]

Laurie Chandler’s Upwards is one of just a handful of canoe-based adventure memoirs that I have read. My primary interest is long distance backpacking and while I have read dozens of journal-adapted hiking books, this is one water-based adventure story that definitely makes the cut. The book has already earned placement in northeast US wilderness canoeing writing-after all, Laurie is now the first woman to solo thru-paddle (and portage) all 740 miles of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail ( NFCT) and she did it in a 13 foot canoe.
I knew the first person to thru-paddle the same route way back in 2000, Donnie Mullins, a young local Mainer. Donnie did it in a heavier 16-foot wood-canvas canoe that he made himself. When I heard that he did it, I was shocked at realizing how difficult and dangerous it must have been. I was also friendly with Mike Kreppner, a local legend who ran one of the first custom outdoor gear shops around -Igas Island Gear. Mike was a historian of the ancient native American water highways in the Northeast and one of the individuals who was responsible for putting the NFCT into reality. I have also paddled some of the same waters that Laurie writes about, in particular the Allagash Wilderness Waterway. That paddle was a tough late April push a few years ago, even with two of us in the canoe.
At age 53, Laurie grabs a huge piece of faith and goes for it. Laurie’s book references her Christian faith and her relationship with God. I have hiked through thousands of miles of wilderness and it is not possible to do these kinds of things without faith in something, be it yourself, the kindness of strangers, or even faith that it will get even a little better the next day. Faith in God is fine with me.
Laurie lays out enough background to establish herself as an individual who grew up with family experience on the water, and her father plays a part in the story as well, paddling his own solo canoe beside her for a little while at the start of her journey, and re-entering periodically to assist her with some emotion and physical resupply.
We all desperately need to re-engage in the natural world. Laurie’s persistence and unwillingness to give up mixes with intelligent improvisation resulting in a well-crafted story told in a sincere, humble manner. Laurie really did pull off a miracle in a couple of months that she will likely never forget. Thanks to Laurie, we get to take away some of that faith- that there is something awaiting us that is much bigger than ourselves out there on the pristine lakes, ponds, rivers, and streams of New York, Vermont, New Hampshire, and my treasured state of Maine.

[Joe Geronimo · Rating 5 out of 5]

What can I say, I loved this book! I myself have a passion for the Northern Forest Canoe Trail and have paddled small sections of it. Laurie's writing is inspiring and invokes the true passion of the water, wilderness and human spirit.

When our world seems bleak at times Laurie's adventure, her faith coupled by friendships both new and old, along with the many trail angels she encountered have restored my belief that their is still good in our world. I loved the sense of small town America. The hospitality to a weary traveler. Communities taking care of strangers or better yet strangers looking out for strangers.

I was hooked from the beginning and looked forward to reading it every day. I am by no means a fast reader but this gives me the time to savor such an adventure. An adventure I often romantisize about.

I truly enjoyed reading this and highly recommend this book. Sorry no spoilers here!

[Nicole · Rating 3 out of 5]

Any stories about adventuring in the woods and waters of Maine is thrilling to me. Especially when women are involved, and Laurie is someone to be celebrated for her efforts.

I read this book with DeLorme's Gazeteer next to me so I could reference the landmarks the author mentioned along her journey. I felt as though I was along for the ride in her canoe most of the time.

Anytime I got confused about the storyline, it was typically when she was reflecting on previous paddling trips (as she was reminded of them along the NFCT). I found myself re-reading those sections to get myself back on track. I found this to detract from the story a bit - I would have preferred those older stories be highlighted in some way (different font or inset) to make it clear to the reader that the author is reminiscing.

I like how she wove in some historical detail about the regions she was paddling through. As a wannabe thru-paddler, I'm happy to have added this one to my shelf.

[Matthew · Rating 5 out of 5]

A very inspiring and well written book. I did not know about the Northern Forest Canoe Trail before reading this. After reading it, it's on my list of future adventures to be had.

The challenges that the author faced, both during her journey on the NFCT, and in the larger journey through life, provide inspiration to anyone looking for perseverance. The way Laurie interacts with nature, the respect for it that is put into these pages, and the research she put into capturing the history of the places she traveled through is impressive.

Those who have an appreciation for the back waters of northern New England will find a lot to appreciate in this book. Those who have an appreciation for traveling by canoe will as well. But even to those who have an idle interest in those topics, this book is about more than a canoe trip.

It is a book I will definitely be reading again.

[Megan Chandler · Rating 5 out of 5]

I don't read a lot of non-fiction, so I was pleasantly surprised by Upwards. Beyond a memoir, it's a well-woven story of NFCT history, the logistics of navigating the trail, and a wonderful cast of characters met in the course of 750 miles. Upwards is an honest portrayal of an outdoorswoman's lifestyle, one marked by the highs and lows of a simple life on the trail and the joys to be discovered there. I suggest reading this book in the still of winter, curled up next to a fire. A modern take on a topic dear to many literary heroes' hearts, Chandler relates rural New England summer and the wildest parts of Maine in an authentic voice, a story that brings out the best of the region and its people.

[Sandra · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was a surprisingly engrossing book. I’ve enjoyed books by through hikers, and thought I would find this through-paddler’s to be the same. But it actually had a quite different feel and stirred in me different emotions. The author didn’t share long-winded stories, go for cheap laughs, or wax poetic for chapters; she simply told the story of her journey with interesting background and info sprinkled in. I long for the peace and simplicity being truly in nature brings, and this woman shared that without being heavy-handed.

Interestingly, I started out thinking I would want to do this journey after reading this book, but it had the opposite effect. I had no idea there’d be so many portages, so I’m all set!

[John Geary · Rating 4 out of 5]

As a paddler who loves adventurous canoe trips, what’s not (for me) to love about this book?
It tells the story of the first woman to solo the entire length of the 750-mile Northern Forest Canoe Route through four states and one province. It’s a true adventure, one much better than many fictional adventures, I think. I can certainly find myself relating to many of the issues and situations and experiences she dealt with during her long paddle.
One of the other things I like about this book is the fact that she references other books about canoeing – which of course I’ve added to my list to read.
If you enjoy paddling and you enjoy reading about paddling, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t enjoy this book.

[Irene Drago · Rating 5 out of 5]

I believe that Upwards is the book everyone should read before they set out to make an impossible dream come true. Laurie Apgar Chandler's words are incredibly genuine. I found myself rooting for her every stroke and every footstep of her 740 miles of canoe travel and 67 portages. This beautifully written memoir, appeals to daring men and women everywhere. All of her chapters begin with inspiring quotes. I found my favorite at the top of Chapter 4: " You will never do anything in this world without courage. It is the greatest quality of the mind next to honor. - Aristotle"

[Nicole · Rating 5 out of 5]

Upwards was a great winter read, as I wait for the ice to clear from the rivers and lakes in Maine. Near the book's end, Laurie writes, "More [NFCT paddlers] will share their journeys and their stories will be new and yet the same." I felt this very much as I read along with Laurie's thru-paddle and at the same time remembered parts of my own (I thru-paddled in 2006 with a friend). Whether you have paddled the NFCT, aspire to, or simply like to read about a good adventure, you'll enjoy Upwards, an honest recounting of an incredible journey through the Northern Forest.

[Terri · Rating 5 out of 5]

"Memoir" (if that's the right word?)/non-fiction book about the first woman to solo paddle the Northern Forest Canoe Trail (interconnected waterways from New York to Fort Kent ME (tippy top of the state). This was a great read - told in a very straightforward, non-sensationalized manner. A "quiet" book, if that's the right word that let the strength of the story and the endurance required to complete this solo paddle shine through. I felt like I was right there along side the narrator for the entire journey! I highly recommend this book for anyone who likes stories about women doing extraordinary things or books about outdoorsy activities.

[Louise · Rating 5 out of 5]

As a wanna-be outdoors woman who lives on the edge of the Adirondack Park and who has a daughter who lives in Maine, this book was a joy to read! I so admire Laurie's commitment to acheive her goals, coupled with a touch of spirtual prose that lifted my spirit and made me smile. Congratulations Laurie on a job well done and thank you for sharing your journey with your readers!

[Linda S · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting and memory provoking for someone who has done long wilderness canoeing. Her descriptions of portaging, camping and shooting rapids were excellent.

I gave it 3 stars because the text was a little stilted, not as poetic as I expected. And there was a little too much religious references.

[Mary Bausch · Rating 5 out of 5]

As a casual, fair-weather paddler, I loved reading this book! Who cannot be impressed by Ms. Chandler's meticulous two year prep and training for such strenuous trek alone on upstream rivers, lakes and many long portages! She freely and honestly shares her fears, setbacks as well her persistence and will to complete the trail. Read this!!

[Peter · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent read! I could definitely relate with the author since I began my own section paddle of NYS just a week before she began her through paddle. Laurie brought it all back to me and made me feel that I was back on the trail.

[Amy Carlson · Rating 4 out of 5]

Intriguing to learn about the NFCT, so different from the bwca. enjoyed seeing her appreciation of the world thru which she paddled, especially the Maine sections where it became more wild and remote. Impressive accomplishment!

[MaryKay · Rating 4 out of 5]

Not a journal, she did that along the way, but a kind of memoir of this amazing journey she completed on her own. Part history, part travel guide, part refections on life. Delightful to read.

[Susan Daignault · Rating 5 out of 5]

Loved it!

[Traczie · Rating 5 out of 5]

A delight!

[Kaylee Lee · Rating 4 out of 5]

Following along as she paddles her way. She is descriptive and includes some pictures of her travels. Very inspiring.

[Josh Roeder · Rating 5 out of 5]

Greatly enjoyed this book! I read Laurie book with her paddle trip across Maine and into the national monument. Nothing I love more than reading her books about her journeys paddling.

[Trish Remley · Rating 3 out of 5]

A 3.5. Enjoyed following along with the author on this paddling trail and learning how this solo trip was accomplished.