Icons of Style: A Century of Fashion Photography

by Paul Martineau

In 1911 the French publisher Lucien Vogel challenged Edward Steichen to create the first artistic , rather than merely documentary, fashion photographs, a moment that is now considered to be a turning point in the history of fashion photography. As fashion changed over the next century, so did the photography of fashion. Steichen’s modernist approach was forthright and visually arresting. In the 1930s the photographer Martin Munkácsi pioneered a gritty, photojournalistic style. In the 1960s Richard Avedon encouraged his models to express their personalities by smiling and laughing, which had often been discouraged previously. Helmut Newton brought an explosion of sexuality into fashion images and turned the tables on traditional gender stereotypes in the 1970s, and in the 1980s Bruce Weber and Herb Ritts made male sexuality an important part of fashion photography. Today, following the integration of digital technology, teams like Inez & Vinoodh and Mert & Marcus are reshaping our notion of what is acceptable—not just aesthetically but also technically and conceptually—in a fashion photograph.
 
This lavishly illustrated survey of one hundred years of fashion photography updates and reevaluates this history in five chronological chapters by experts in photography and fashion history. It includes more than three hundred photographs by the genre’s most famous practitioners as well as important but lesser-known figures, alongside a selection of costumes, fashion illustrations, magazine covers, and advertisements.
 

Genres: Photography, Art, Fashion, Art and Photography

368 pages, Hardcover

Published July 10, 2018

Reviews

[Anna · Rating 5 out of 5]

It took me a while to get through, yet it was such a rewarding reading experience. For someone who is interested in the history of photography, as a research topic, and in fashion, as some sort of hobby, this book is a real treat! I am planning to get myself a copy, not because it would rest fabulously on my coffee table, but because some of the essays are worth revisiting, specifically those concerning the early years of artistic fashion photography.

Each essay is dedicated to a particular section of the century it covers (from 1911 to 2011) and each is thoroughly researched and, therefore, very culturally dense, discussing how fashion photography went from establishing itself as a “reactive genre” in Paul Martineau’s “Style in the Face of Crisis,” to the era in which “fashion became a central form of cultural expression,” in Michal Raz-Russo’s “From Rebellion to Seduction.” At the end of every essay, there is a generous section of page-filling images that are referenced throughout the book, pertaining to all the big names past and present, longtime favourites of mine, plus other lesser known artists. Some of these images are just as expressive and experimental now as they were in the time they were taken. I would have loved to see the exhibit so this book is as close as it gets!

*Thanks to NetGalley & Getty Publications for the opportunity to read a digital ARC in exchange for an honest review.*

[Literary Redhead · Rating 5 out of 5]

This drool-worthy book is a stunning homage to fashion photography by Paul Martineau, curator of many J. Paul Getty Museum exhibitions. Includes 300+ sumptuous photos, magazine covers and illustrations for lovers of art and lavish beauty.

Grateful to NetGalley and Getty Publications for the early read. Opinions are mine.

#IconsOfStyle #NetGalley

[Henry · Rating 5 out of 5]

- Fashion is very much of a response to the current economic climate: the book began with 1920s. After decades of prosperity, 1920s style was free flowing, meant to provoke with hints of leaving behind of traditional feminism

- Post 1920s, the Great Depression ushered in a renowned focus of traditional female beauty: skirts were longer, more traditional-ish (however not Victorian-like) dresses were back

- Post wartime prosperity, excess fabric such as Zoot suit and Dior's new look became the "it" thing

- During each stage, the way things were accepted were the same: initially people were shocked, then they were desensitized and eventually people accepted the new idea and embrace the new, until the next shock came along

- Many times, new fashion designers, through time, became the establishment. Funny that looking at history, at a certain point of time, they were trendsetters (nothing lasts forever)

[Kendra · Rating 4 out of 5]

An excellent survey of Western fashion photography of the last century, with incredible imagery. I'll admit I picked up the book more out of interest in fashion of the last century -- to that end, the essays were often more esoteric than I was looking for. But the photos are fantastic, and there are lots of gems to be found even if one isn't a scholar of the history of photography. My favorite: In WW2, after the Nazis took Paris, French fashion designers refused to debut collections in Berlin -- going so far as to use non-rationed items like ribbons and clay (to make oversized buttons) to turn out hideous garments. Way to stick it to the Nazis, French couture!

[Andreea · Rating 4 out of 5]

I was sent a free copy of this book in exchange for my honest review.

This book is gorgeous and it brings together art history (costume, fashion and fashion photography) and stunning visuals to help you better understand the information. It balances the amount of information with the pictures you get and that really makes the book stand out.

I really wish the font for the writing wasn't as smaller, it was a bit difficult to read and it makes the information to seem dense and too much, but it's not!

[Andrea Engle · Rating 4 out of 5]

Wide-ranging and eclectic, this overview of the history of fashion photography is lavishly illustrated ... from Steichen to Testino, fashion has been well-served by the artistry of the camera ...

[Marge · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fabulous coffee table book for anyone interested in fashion

[Erica · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book beautifully captures fashion's historical timeline as well as being a testament to the artistic depth of the photographers involved - well curated.
(NetGalley preview)

[Lisa · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is an excellent study of the history of fashion photographers and trends from the early 20th century. Martineau explains the transition from fashion drawings to photography and how the great photographers changed the world of fashion and art in each era. For example, Edward Steichen began his career photographing the lavish designs of Poiret but in the 20s he focused on his love of naturalness and simplicity and started taking outdoor shots. He also used chic, independent women models, such as Marion Morehouse and Lee Miller.



A useful book for anyone studying fashion or photography, this contains beautiful photos from each era.



I received this free ebook from Net Galley in return for an honest review.

[Apsalar · Rating 5 out of 5]

I was given an ARC by NetGalley and the publisher in exchange for an honest review.

I ended up buying this book since an E-reader just doesn't cut it when it comes to books about photography and fashion. When it comes to books about fashion and photography I much prefer to own a physical copy, publishers often go all out even just for the cover, Icons of Style's cover has this special feel almost like a soft fabric or one of those 3D optical illusion cards.

It's difficult to write a review for such a beautiful book. I can't imagine how difficult it must have been for Paul Martineau to select the photographs featured in this book. The photographs are so beautiful and some are a little risqué. I'm also glad that the photographs aren't split in half as some publishers do it really ruins a perfect photograph.

We also get a history lesson when it comes to the editors for magazines such as Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. For me it was a joy to see some of the dresses designed by Dior, Schiaparelli and Charles James. Everyone who worked on this book did an outstanding job! 

This is the book to have on your shelf if you love fashion and photography!

The cover was shot by Sarah Moon who started out as a model and became a fashion photographer in the seventies. Sarah was the first woman who shot the famous Pirelli calendar in 1972.

Fashion photography wasn't seen as a form of art in the early beginning but it produced so many iconic images that we do see it as a form of art these days. This book is a musthave for anyone aspiring to become a fashion photographer and fashion lovers.

We start our journey in 1911 when Edward Steichen accepted a dare by Lucien Vogel publisher of Jardin des Modes to shoot artistic fashion photographs. Steichen's work was soon featured in the magazine Art et Décoration in april of 1911.  Edward Steichen was a genius and for me he is the one who paved the way for other fashion photographers.

We travel through the century with more photographs by famous photographers such as Herb Ritts, Hiro, Melanie Pullen, Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, Cecil Beaton, Man Ray, Horst P. Horst, Lusha Nelson, Viviane Sassen and so many more.
Over on my blog I've posted a few photographs by my favorite photographers

[Leyla Johnson · Rating 5 out of 5]

An amazing book about fashion and photography through the ages. All of the photos are beautiful, and makes you wonder how some were achieved without all the photoshop tools that are available to photographers today.
The fashions depicted are a real walk through time, and the historic information is really interesting. A very enlightening book on both fashion and photography