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272 pages, Hardcover
First published February 22, 2018
While I was reading Dickens something changed. I didn’t want to be on the outside, looking at pictures, tasting recipes at one remove, seeing the last muffin go to someone else. I began to want to want food. To share it, savour it, to have it without guilt.
The waiter, arriving a moment later, gazed with surprise at the empty space on the quay; then, observing us with a quickly-masked flicker of pleasure, he stepped unhesitatingly into the sea, advanced waist deep with a butler's gravity, and, saying nothing more than 'Dinner-time', placed our meal before us—three beautifully grilled kephali, piping hot, and with their golden brown scales sparkling. To enjoy their marine flavour to the utmost, we dipped each by its tail for a second into the sea at our elbows."
'I wish I could find some way of composing my mind—It's absurd to let it be ravaged by scenes...On the contrary, it is better to pull on my galoshes & go through the gale to lunch off scrambled eggs & sausages.'
I knew Elizabeth David's England in a way I couldn't know Mary Francis' Californian beaches, ranches, vineyards, West Coast boarding schools, and Hershey's bars. The England of Elizabeth David, though separated by seventy years from the one I grew up in, was recognisably my England: an England of nannies, Wellington boots, Regent's Park, Primrose Hill, expeditions to see the windows in Selfridges (where Elizabeth ran up bills for roast chicken, cream, and coffee); the Tate Gallery; the Sunday Times; Scotch eggs for picnics; fish at school on Fridays with custard and tinned fruit cocktail (the staples of Godstowe in the 1920s, and my London primary school in the 1990s); Agas; 'hellish' summer weather and Woolworths.
When I am besieged by noise I forget why I ever wanted to travel, why leave the house, why eat, why go on. It is then very difficult to see how I can bear to live in a body that will make demands every day, three times a day for food. How will I eat meal after meal, year after year, when starving seems so much easier? At such times, the future looks a long, old slog and I worry that my boots are not up to it. But the only way to know is to try, Boots, courage, on.
In writing this book, I want to say both that it is possible to get better from an illness, to make for yourself a life worth living, and also that there will be days when it seems impossible. There will be times when you think: I cannot sleep, I cannot eat, I cannot hear myself think. I cannot remember how to be happy. I cannot keep going.
I say: keep going.