Dark Continent, My Black Arse

by Sihle Khumalo

Dark Continent, My Black Arse is Sihle Khumalo's personal and often hilarious account of his perception of Mama Africa, based on his journey from Cape to Cairo by public transport bus, boksie, matola. Celebrating life with gusto and in inimitable style, he describes a journey fraught with discomfort, mishap, ecstasy, disillusionment, discovery and astonishing human encounters; a journey that would be acceptable madness in a white man but is regarded by the author s fellow Africans as an extraordinary and inexplicable expenditure of time and money.As Sihle's famous counterpart Paul Theroux, author of Dark Star Safari, comments, Dark Continent, My Black Arse is uniquely an African travel story: the story of 'an African travelling on his own money and motivation, from one end of Africa to the other'. An inspiring story, it carries the following warning: Reading this book might cause you to resign from your boring job, leave your nagging / ungrateful / insecure partner, stop merely existing and start living the life you have always longed and yearned for.

Genres: Africa, Travel, Nonfiction, Memoir, African Literature, South Africa

223 pages, Paperback

First published September 29, 2007

About the author

Sihle Khumalo was born in Nqutu, a small rural town in northern KwaZulu. He grew up in Pietermaritzburg where he matriculated in 1991 and ('just like a lot of darkies,' as he puts it) spent a year loitering at home because his single mother, who was a school teacher, could not afford immediately to send him to a tertiary institution. He subsequently attended the then Natal Technikon (now Durban Institute of Technology) and worked in the Port of Durban for ten years, four as a risk manager. Now Johannesburg-based, Khumalo works as an exploration project manager for Anglo American. He is married, with two children.

Reviews

[Aarti · Rating 1 out of 5]

I'm surprised that the author looks down on racism, calling the racist white boer next to him on a bus a "pig," and yet has no problems with his own sexism. I started off pretty excited to read this book. Just having finished Dark Star Safari, I wanted to get an African opinion of the same countries. However, it's difficult to read a book when you find the author as repulsive as I find Mr. Khumalo. His attitude towards women is difficult to endure. I know people have found this book funny. Let me give you an example of the funny things that happen: Khumalo sees an "attractive" woman at the beach and talks to her, excited to start his trip off with a "bang." But then he realizes while staring at her ass that she is wearing panties and not a g-string. He is left dejected by these completely unsuitable undergarments and decides against intercourse with the lady in question. For my part, I don't understand why all the fuss about undergarments, are they not removed when engaging in the activity he had in mind? All this while his fiancee is waiting at home with their newborn child. Maybe it's a cultural thing. Certainly most of the other reviewers here don't seem to have a problem, but I would have read on if the writing were otherwise witty or perceptive. It's neither. In fact most of the book that I managed to read is dedicated to demonstrating how much game Khumalo has with the ladies. Women seem to be throwing themselves at him wherever he goes! I've seen him and I must say I find this somewhat unbelievable.

[Henry · Rating 2 out of 5]

Although an interesting read, found the author's attitudes naively sexist and chauvinistic, to the point of being offensive.

[Misha · Rating 4 out of 5]

Poor fiancee:)

[Recato · Rating 4 out of 5]

Reread the book in 2012. Keeping my original review.


This was very interesting looking through the eyes of a black guy whilest he travels from Cape Town to Cairo.

Been a black guy he gets to experience this travel way differently a white guy would.

Also liked the history of various countries.

The negative: No photos! I do appreciate photos in books like these.

[Alex Sarll]

Because how could I resist that title? The classic colonial-era Cape to Cairo adventure, except this time it's not being done by a white guy. The surprising thing is how little that changes; after all, Africa is not a country, so why shouldn't a South African guy's family be worried about his safety in less stable bits of the continent? Why be surprised if he finds the call to prayer in Muslim countries quite annoying (especially when he knows how they feel about someone like him who still follows the ancestors), or can't be doing with Ethiopian cuisine, or feels he has to get a picture of the unexpected moment when he sees Maasai guys in traditional dress in a web café? And yes, he spends an awful lot of the journey making fumbling efforts to cop off with the local women, despite having a fiancée back home, but even that serves largely to remind one that people, for better or worse, are people.

Not that there aren't new wrinkles on that, of course. I always find it fascinating to learn about national stereotypes that other countries have for each other – or even ones within countries. So, South Africa's recent history as presented in the West is so firmly defined along colour lines that, while I was aware of Inkatha as the Zulu party, I had never quite clicked that the ANC was also seen as to some extent an ethnically specific party, let alone that within South Africa Xhosa and Zulu might have stereotypes for each other – but of course they do, just like the Scottish and the English. And in between his encounters with the various people and often hair-raising public transport systems of Africa, Khumalo also finds his own picture of the continent's history with colonialism developing more nuance; realising that Arabs were enslaving Africans before and after Europeans gives him a Eureka moment as to why there's a Zanzibari community in his own home town of Durban, while in Sudan he's understandably flabbergasted to find that even with apartheid dead, it turns out an African can still be turned away from posh hotels in some African countries – because they're exclusively for customers from China, already starting to feel like the new imperial power in a book written long before the Belt and Road got underway. I won't say this is one of my favourite travel books, because what I really love in the genre is a sort of misty romanticism, and this is generally more on the jovial, blokey end of the spectrum, engaging rather than spellbinding. But it's certainly one of the most eye-opening.

[Janine · Rating 2 out of 5]

What Khumalo has achieved is amazing: a young adult from rural Natal against most odds putting his life on hold to travel from the tip to the top of Africa. A small town Zulu boy stepping out of his cultural understandings to see the 'travelling' world in Africa for what it is, experiencing new cultures and people along the way - holding on to certain beliefs and letting go of others; a common side effect of traveling beyond your own personal borders. I personally felt his writing to be mundane and not truly captivating, although I imagine his experience to have been so. But mostly, as a female reader I found his attitude towards women of all races hard to comprehend. He is truly, deeply, sexist. Beyond the constant snipes and misunderstandings of women littered throughout the book, he chooses to start each section with a 'father of the nation' write up, introducing the country with a narrative on a male leader, whether a decent ruler or not always written with veneration of some kind by the writer. All the while Khumalo chooses to sum up each country with a dismissive stab at a particular woman, or a group of women, he has met in that particular country. His last words, written in his acknowledgements are: "Thanks for nothing, Leonie." - an idle comment on a dutch girl he felt rebuked him along the way. For myself his last words truly summing up his feelings about women and leaving a bad taste in my mouth.

Found in St Mike's Book Exchange (St Mikes; KwaZulu Natal).

[Robyn]

I am torn over what rating would be best for this book, which doesn't often happen to me. I absolutely loved the general tone and conversation surrounding travel through Africa and found our author to be rather amusing, perhaps even pleasant to follow on his journey. The introspection he occasionally falls into was relatable and felt genuine enough.
What I am unable to move past from however is his attitude towards women. It did not sit well with me, it was not funny, it was not entertaining but was instead disrespectful, alarming and frankly disgusting. I couldn't see any humour in it and found it left me rather hesitant to continue. Perhaps shock value writing, I don't know.

[Zookey . · Rating 3 out of 5]

I liked the book before I read the contents. I am like that. I am a sucker for respecting people who dare to follow their dreams. Sihle resigned from work to follow his dreams to travel and to do silly things like bunjee jump and then write a book. Kudos for that. I did not like his male chauvinistic ways that are very highlighted in the books but I still enjoyed his adventures and enjoyed having him in my circle of authors I call unto for advice! You will laugh, you will frown and you will shake your head with every chapter read. Great first book for a KwaZulu-natal boy!

[Phumza Ntshotsho Simelane]

Sihle takes you with you on his journey across Africa. You get to experience ubuntu and the rich African way of life on this journey.

[Dirk · Rating 1 out of 5]

Quite disappointed at his lack of respect towards women. I was quite surprised at his ease of considering hooking up with the first woman he sees when he just left his girlfriend at home, and then just as quickly he rejects her because of how she is dressed. No integrity, no faithfulness? This gives a wrong impression of Africans.

Also, I am used to Bill Bryson’s travel books, with his deadpan British sense of humor; Khumalo’s way to describe people and things does not come close. But that’s just my opinion.

[Shi-Hsia · Rating 4 out of 5]

Pretty good read for those who enjoy funny travel writing.

Minus one star because he won't stop talking about looking at and/or hitting on women (while his fiancee waits back in SA...) Look, I'm not judging the author on his morality but as a writer, on failing to realise that this is a waste of page inches and readers' attention span; it's A LOT.

[Alberto Venturini · Rating 3 out of 5]

An account of Mr Khumalo's road trip from (almost) Cape Town to Cairo, by public transport. It's very factual, but I would have preferred fewer details and more history about the various places that he visits. I read this book after reading his "Rainbow Nation my Zulu Arse", which I enjoyed much more. His writing style has greatly evolved during the past 10-odd years since he published this book.

[Mike · Rating 1 out of 5]

I had to read this for school. The author has some issues. His take on why Africa is such a rich country when it comes to resources, yet is filled with such devastating poverty, was on point. Africa should rival China and America in wealth and GDP, but corrupt governmental systems continue to hamper their progress.

But this book has many problems that were a continuous distraction throughout.

[Leanne · Rating 1 out of 5]

I didn’t think I would be offended by his sexism but times have changed, haven’t they?! I did not find him”incredibly funny” as one of the quotes on the cover said. In addition, I thought way too much time was spent on his treks through customs and border crossings. I get it, they take forever in Africa, let’s move on.

[Sjoerd Touwen · Rating 2 out of 5]

Interesting to read about African countries from this autobiographical perspective of a south-african man traveling from Cape to cairo, but the writer tries way to hard to be funny and is a bit dislikable (mainly quite sexist and an ass to his fiancee with their 6 month old baby who he leaves at home). Apart from the cultural and geographical features not really a recommendation.

[Pearl O · Rating 2 out of 5]

Although I really enjoyed the travel element the author’s constant womanizing put me off in the end. I was impressed with some observations and conclusions he came to and therefore will give his other books a try.

[Hloni Dlamini · Rating 4 out of 5]

totally loved this book and sihle humour

[Jozanne · Rating 4 out of 5]

Enjoyed the stories of his travel across Africa

[Helen · Rating 4 out of 5]

Nice to read a travelogue of a South African travelling Africa from south to north. Some interesting perspectives on Africa and the state of Africa.

[Kevin Weir · Rating 1 out of 5]

This was a DNF for me. The author's sexism and racism were repulsive. After about 120 pages, I decided not to waste my time

[Jane · Rating 3 out of 5]

Man boy humour and a frantic desire to get to the finish line.

[Kgalalelo Morwe]

A hilarious and informative book that challenges the common stereotypes associated with Africa. A light read!

[Margitte · Rating 4 out of 5]

Zakes Mda reviews the book like this: "This is just the book we have been thirsting for: travel writing by an African adventurer who explores and tries to explain his own continent. The author takes you with him on his exciting journey through lucid prose and impish humor. Often he dispenses with political correctness and becomes refreshingly irreverent. Once I started reading, it became very difficult to put it down."

Mike Copeland says of the book: African travel writing will never be the same again after Sihle's humorous, insightful, tongue-in-cheek account of his overland, public-transport Cape to Cairo trip.
He is politically and gender incorrect, honest and open, mind-blowing frank, perspective changing, 'vrou-befok'(crazy about women) and being and African and an optimist, also a plausible commentator on what is right and wrong with Africa."

I loved this new voice in the travel genre, for starters, but also a refreshing 'new' take on Africa. Reading about Africa with a smile, often much laughter, is almost blasphemous since it is a side of this continent nobody dares to enjoy in a sense, yet laughter and joy is so prevalently part of this wondrous landscape. Sihle Khumalo shows the guts to turn a few tables with much candor, a directness, and lots of laughter. This book is as welcome on the African scene as the "The No.1 Ladies Detective Agency"- series by Alexander McCall Smith.

We need more fresh voices in the African / English world. This is one of them!

[Alice Barry · Rating 3 out of 5]

I was really looking forward to reading this book, but it was marred by the fact that, despite having a fiancé and a baby, the author seemed to look on the journey mostly as a chance to have real or imagined sexual liaisons in every country. I think that maybe he was trying to be humorous, but it just felt juvenile unfortunately. Otherwise the journey, some of his crazy experiences, the hardships, and the brief friendships he made on his journey made for interesting reading. It certainly all gave one a different perspective from all the “white guy” travel books. I’ve just upped it a star because in hindsight it was worth a read from that perspective alone!

[Helene · Rating 4 out of 5]

I do not want to say much, except that it takes tremendous courage to be this honest. It is one thing to be honest with yourself, but quite another to be honest out there for the whole world to see. Then I want to ask 'the Boers' (and I am a 'Boer' down to my marrow): If we were to be this honest with ourselves for one moment, and thought what our own reaction - our own attitude towards 'white people' would have been - were the roles during the Apartheid regime to be reversed, what would our conclusion be?

[Phumlani · Rating 4 out of 5]

After reading this book,i kicked myself for not travelling Africa the was Sihle has done. This book forced me to open my mind to the idea of travelling and exploring our continent.
I enjoyed the book, i liked the way it was written,though i do not think he resisted all those women he met! but thats neither here nor there. The book is great,it takes you on a journey across Africa and describes it in a way you can relate to.

[Terri R · Rating 3 out of 5]

While Khumalo's prose was definitely NOT deathless, I enjoyed his adventure vicariously and even chuckled a few times at his politically incorrect observations. My favorite were his resolutions and business ideas. Better if you know South Africa some, to understand the inside jokes. An easy read.

[Eric · Rating 5 out of 5]

A very honest view of Africa, by an African. Travel is expensive and most of us Africans don't do it. There are very few travel books by black Africans which makes this one such a breathe of fresh hair. The descriptions and experiences by Sihle are hilarious yet engaging enough to feel like you are part of his journey.

[Refiloe Nkadimeng ********** · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book well written. History of each country that the writer visisted is made relevent. I enjoyed reading this book. I even thought that that this is something to explore one day. He made me want to take that step to explore my continent.

[Larry · Rating 4 out of 5]

This has to have been one of the most enjoyable, funniest and honest travelogues I have read.

It must have taken balls to travel the modern dark continent using public transport. Knowing how it works or doesn't it's surprising the author is not still traveling.

Loved the book!