This was an enjoyable read for sure--so why 3 stars? Although I love the concept of this book, and some of the stories are truly amazing, the layout and some of the writing got on my nerves.
The layout and design are very coffee-table-book-esque (not a bad thing in and of itself). Phrases on each page are printed in red instead of black; there are plenty of pictures; and each chapter is broken into parts (there's a main story that's the focus of each chapter, then some recipes, followed by a section called "kitchen visionary" and/or transcriptions of stories that were called in to the show). The different colored fonts kind of irritated me, especially since a lot of highlighted phrases sounded so gimmicky and silly when isolated on the page.
I really liked how each chapter had sections, which highlighted multiple stories aside from the primary story. Although sometimes I couldn't help but think that the shorter messages from callers sounded so much more interesting than the longer stories in the book, for the most part I got into all the stories in some way. Except the NASCAR one, maybe. Interesting, sure, but I think there are other food-related tales more "deserving" of a full chapter in this book. And it's one of the few chapters with recipes that actually sounded downright repulsive to me. Story #10 ("Milk Cow Blues: The Apple Family Farm and the Indiana Cow Share Association") was really interesting to read, but seemed to deviate from the unifying theme of "hidden kitchens", at least as I understood it.
As for the writing: overall this book is well-written and captures the emotional, social, and cultural importance of food throughout the country. However, at times it made me roll my eyes with lines like "Mark Apple, beard and glasses, the kind of guy you might expect to meet in the band room at school rather than a milk barn...". Sorry, that's just a little too cheesy for me.
One chapter that just made me feel uncomfortable throughout was Story #3 ("The Chili Queens of San Antonio"). This was actually one of my favorite chapters in the book simply because of the story but the writing particularly irked me. The descriptions of the chili queens are horribly romanticized. It comes across as patronizing and the fact that these women were, ultimately, taking on these roles to make money for themselves and their families is minimized (it comes up a little near the end of the chapter). Instead, their fiery, mysterious personalities are emphasized in nearly every description, reinforcing a stereotype that seems to permeate the story rather than revealing any sort of "truth" regarding the real women involved in the chili queen legacy. Less than one page is dedicated to an actual interview with someone directly involved (Isabel Sanchez, granddaughter of a chili queen). I just wish more of this chapter had been constructed from first-hand accounts (the shorter story at the end, for example--"The Lark of the Border"--is excellent). But overall, this chapter came across as the least "honest" in its writing, as much as I enjoyed the story.
Despite a few shortcomings, this is a good book and very much worth reading. I doubt I'll try any of the recipes (except maybe the Czechoslovakian Moon Cookies)--it kind of seems like they're in the book more for show than anything. I mean, I probably won't be making 3 gallons of Moonlite Bar-B-Q Burgoo anytime soon...or ever...if you catch my drift. But the actual stories in these pages are truly amazing and make you consider how powerful food really can be, for both our bodies and our spirits.