All the Devils Are Here is a fascinating, peripatetic journey through a series of seaside towns in East Kent. That makes it sound twee and sentimental. It’s anything but.
The first essay, “Daddlands”, starts in Rochester at Gad’s Hill Place, the red-brick house where Dickens died, then heads to Chatham, the hometown of Robert and Richard Dadd. If I hadn’t read Nina Allan’s terrific Good Neighbours, I wouldn’t have recognised the “Dadd” name or known what was coming. But I had, so I knew that Richard Dadd, in the grip of a psychotic break, killed his father, believing the older man to be the devil. Dadd was committed to an asylum, where he painted some of the most startling, ethereal, and extraordinary depictions of fairies ever rendered. Yet even knowing this, I wasn’t prepared for how Seabrook, with a touch of journalistic and literary genius, connects Dadd and his crime back to Dickens and the theories surrounding the “true” ending of his unfinished novel The Mystery of Edwin Drood. It’s genuinely riveting, complete with a quick visit to the Charles Dickens Centre, where back in the 90s it costs £3.60 to take a short tour.
With the second essay, “In Town Tonight”, Seabrook travels to Broadstairs and provides an unsettling look at British fascism. The focal point is Naldera, the twentieth-century holiday home of (takes a deep breath) “George-Nathaniel Curzon, the first Marquess Curzon of Kedleston in Derbyshire and the last Viceroy of India under Queen Victoria.” Curzon’s daughter, Cynthia, married Oswald Mosley, founder of the British Union of Fascists (BUF) and all-round arsehole. Mosley leads us to William “Lord Haw-Haw” Joyce, BUF’s Director of Propaganda, and fellow Nazi (and Mosley’s mate) Alfred Tester, who moved into Naldera with his family in 1930. As much as Seabrook despises Tester’s politics, he’s clearly taken by the many tall tales that have accumulated around the man. One of those stories provides Seabrook with a link to the essay’s literary heart: John Buchan’s The Thirty-Nine Steps, the title a reference to a wooden staircase leading down to the beach not far from Naldera. Apparently, “just before the outbreak of war, Tester escaped via the ‘thirty-nine’ steps to the safety of a waiting U-boat. One step at a time, down to a moonless sea, sweaty Nazi paws clutching at the chalk.”
If I enjoyed the first two essays, I loved the book’s third and final piece, “Tombatism (a touch)”. This is the most digressive of the chapters, skipping between Charles Hawtrey to Somerset Maugham’s brother Robin, to the tragic story of Peter Arne. The latter I was aware of due to a bit of morbid Doctor Who trivia: Arne was murdered just after a costume fitting for the fifth Doctor story Frontios (he was to play Chief Science Officer Range, the role ultimately performed by William Lucas). Seabrook’s reconstruction of Arne’s final day — bludgeoned to death in his apartment — and the subsequent investigation is moving and sad, not least because Arne’s sexuality became central to his death. In fact, if you hadn’t already noticed, all the men in the essay, including boxer Freddie Mills — who was linked to the Jack the Stripper murders — and Seabrook’s interlocutor Gordon Meadows (who pops in and out of the piece), are gay. Seabrook doesn’t judge these men (though you can imagine him chuckling over Hawtrey’s drunken antics), but there’s a deep sadness in this essay — of men hiding in the shadows, hiding who they are.
Yes, the Kent seaside, with its Nazi sympathisers, murderers, and alcoholic Carry On actors, comes off as a bit sordid. Even its rich literary history has a dark tinge. And yet, it’s that messiness — the meandering structure and dilapidated places and people — that makes All the Devils Are Here such an enjoyable read.*
*I didn’t mention Sebald once!