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Grits: A Cultural and Culinary Journey Through the South
Grits is a fascinating cultural history and examination of the current role of grits in Southern cuisine.
For food writer Erin Byers Murray, grits had always been one of those basic, bland Southern table necessities--something to stick to your ribs or dollop the butter and salt onto. But after hearing a famous chef wax poetic about the terroir of grits, her whole view changed. Suddenly the boring side dish of her youth held importance, nuance, and flavor. She decided to do some digging to better understand the fascinating and evolving role of grits in Southern cuisine and culture as well as her own Southern identity.
As more artisan grits producers gain attention in the food world, grits have become elevated and appreciated in new ways, nationally on both sides of the Mason Dixon Line, and by international master chefs. Murray takes the reader behind the scenes of grits cultivation, visiting local growers, millers, and cooks to better understand the South's interest in and obsession with grits. What she discovers, though, is that beyond the culinary significance of grits, the simple staple leads her to complicated and persisting issues of race, gender, and politics.
For food writer Erin Byers Murray, grits had always been one of those basic, bland Southern table necessities--something to stick to your ribs or dollop the butter and salt onto. But after hearing a famous chef wax poetic about the terroir of grits, her whole view changed. Suddenly the boring side dish of her youth held importance, nuance, and flavor. She decided to do some digging to better understand the fascinating and evolving role of grits in Southern cuisine and culture as well as her own Southern identity.
As more artisan grits producers gain attention in the food world, grits have become elevated and appreciated in new ways, nationally on both sides of the Mason Dixon Line, and by international master chefs. Murray takes the reader behind the scenes of grits cultivation, visiting local growers, millers, and cooks to better understand the South's interest in and obsession with grits. What she discovers, though, is that beyond the culinary significance of grits, the simple staple leads her to complicated and persisting issues of race, gender, and politics.
288 pages, Hardcover
First published November 6, 2018
18 people are currently reading
215 people want to read
About the author
Erin Byers Murray
6 books12 followersErin Byers Murray is a Boston area journalist, specializing in food and wine writing. Most recently, she was the Boston editor for DailyCandy.com. Her work as been published in the Boston Globe, Food and Wine, Boston Magazine, Bon Appetit, and many more. Visit her at shucked.wordpress.com."
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Displaying 1 - 14 of 14 reviews
April 22, 2019
This was a really interesting look at grits as a cultural and culinary journey through the South. Murray looks into the history of grits and the variations in the past, she also explores grits through a racial lens, and through a female lens since historically women were the growers and cooks of grits (and most food), she also explores grits as a political tool, and finally highlighting the chefs, cooks, and eaters honoring grits across the South today. Each chapter includes a few recipes for grits as well. Overall, it was a unique look at one of the South's staple foods from where grits started to how they are being used today.
A quote I really liked:
"Glenn Roberts, motivated originally by his interest in rediscovering and reintroducing flavor, quickly took on the political charge - since its start, his small (by comparison) production milling operation has steadily and quietly waged culinary aggression against Big Agriculture. Though it's not a message he touts loudly, the very existence of Anson Mills is a form of resistance. By reintroducing heirloom varieties into commercial production, he offers chefs and consumers a small-scale weapon: the option to step far outside the frustrations that come from supporting the ongoing cycle of damage Big Ag creates." (p. 143-4)
A quote I really liked:
"Glenn Roberts, motivated originally by his interest in rediscovering and reintroducing flavor, quickly took on the political charge - since its start, his small (by comparison) production milling operation has steadily and quietly waged culinary aggression against Big Agriculture. Though it's not a message he touts loudly, the very existence of Anson Mills is a form of resistance. By reintroducing heirloom varieties into commercial production, he offers chefs and consumers a small-scale weapon: the option to step far outside the frustrations that come from supporting the ongoing cycle of damage Big Ag creates." (p. 143-4)
August 21, 2023
It's true, I'm not really a grits person. I wasn't raised in the South though, and didn't grow up with it as a staple. And maybe that explains why this book didn't resonate with me as much as other food history books do.
Grits is Murray's ode to the humble corn dish that has been a staple in the South since Indigenous people used it cultivated from the strains that they created themselves, to the enslaved who subsisted with it as a staple (and fed the rest of the plantation with it as well), to being a staple in various forms still today.
I appreciated the general history, and the different innovators making heritage breeds come back and develop a sense of terroir about the product. But some of it got repetitive, and there was a bunch of history in general with names, etc. that made it hard to follow. I found myself skimming which I try not to do when reading because I feel like I miss things. But some sections I just had to.
If you love grits, this one may be more up your alley than it was for me. While I appreciated the sociological contexts and some of the descriptions, ultimately I just had a hard time with this one.
Review by M. Reynard 2023
Grits is Murray's ode to the humble corn dish that has been a staple in the South since Indigenous people used it cultivated from the strains that they created themselves, to the enslaved who subsisted with it as a staple (and fed the rest of the plantation with it as well), to being a staple in various forms still today.
I appreciated the general history, and the different innovators making heritage breeds come back and develop a sense of terroir about the product. But some of it got repetitive, and there was a bunch of history in general with names, etc. that made it hard to follow. I found myself skimming which I try not to do when reading because I feel like I miss things. But some sections I just had to.
If you love grits, this one may be more up your alley than it was for me. While I appreciated the sociological contexts and some of the descriptions, ultimately I just had a hard time with this one.
Review by M. Reynard 2023
January 29, 2024
Fascinating and fun.
March 19, 2019
What it says on the tin. Saw the book at the library and was curious to learn more about grits since food histories are something I enjoy. Since I had not grown up eating them and actually had not been exposed to them at all until I was perhaps a teenager (or even an adult, perhaps), it seemed like a good read.
The book is what it says. What grits are, the origins, how they are made, the different types, what chefs and others have to say about grits, how they made their way into cuisine, its role in politics, and more. Some of it was pretty fascinating and the section on politics was surprisingly longer than I though it would be (then again, I am not extremely familiar with the food so that might be on me).
Overall, though, I can't say I was really impressed. The writing style wasn't particularly interesting, even if I found the content interesting and recognized some of the people the author interviewed. I did find it interesting to see the role grits played in the Jimmy Carter White House and the mistake Mitt Romney made but maybe because I don't have the same memories or experiences with grits it just didn't resonate with me.
So it could very well be a book for someone else. I recommend the library though.
The book is what it says. What grits are, the origins, how they are made, the different types, what chefs and others have to say about grits, how they made their way into cuisine, its role in politics, and more. Some of it was pretty fascinating and the section on politics was surprisingly longer than I though it would be (then again, I am not extremely familiar with the food so that might be on me).
Overall, though, I can't say I was really impressed. The writing style wasn't particularly interesting, even if I found the content interesting and recognized some of the people the author interviewed. I did find it interesting to see the role grits played in the Jimmy Carter White House and the mistake Mitt Romney made but maybe because I don't have the same memories or experiences with grits it just didn't resonate with me.
So it could very well be a book for someone else. I recommend the library though.
April 30, 2021
I'm going back to finish a few books that I started some time back and set aside for various reasons (grad school, devouring other books in the meantime). Erin Byers Murray's exploration of grits is a book I picked up at the Decatur Book Festival a few years ago after hearing her speak on the topic. I enjoyed her talk and grabbed the book.
I have to say that I love grits. They are quite probably my favorite food. I grew up on instant grits in packets but now love making pots of locally grown grits from Riverview Farms. I also love food in general, and I always appreciate learning about the history of various foods and preparations and people's views on food.
Murray covers both the historical roots of grits as well as modern approaches to cooking grits that have resulted in their being found (still not easily but found nonetheless) outside the deep South. I particularly enjoyed her conversations with current farmers and millers (and loved that my own personal favorite - Riverview Farms - gets a shout-out in the book). Recipes are scattered throughout, and I look forward to trying some of them. (Even, shudder, making a sweet preparation with grits. I'll try it.)
The only criticism I have is that the chapter exploring the politics of grits didn't quite gel. Lots of great information there, but the theme under exploration wasn't fully developed. Otherwise, I really enjoyed reading and learning from Murray.
I have to say that I love grits. They are quite probably my favorite food. I grew up on instant grits in packets but now love making pots of locally grown grits from Riverview Farms. I also love food in general, and I always appreciate learning about the history of various foods and preparations and people's views on food.
Murray covers both the historical roots of grits as well as modern approaches to cooking grits that have resulted in their being found (still not easily but found nonetheless) outside the deep South. I particularly enjoyed her conversations with current farmers and millers (and loved that my own personal favorite - Riverview Farms - gets a shout-out in the book). Recipes are scattered throughout, and I look forward to trying some of them. (Even, shudder, making a sweet preparation with grits. I'll try it.)
The only criticism I have is that the chapter exploring the politics of grits didn't quite gel. Lots of great information there, but the theme under exploration wasn't fully developed. Otherwise, I really enjoyed reading and learning from Murray.
July 24, 2022
One of my favorite genres, narrative nonfiction, combines with one of my favorite subjects, American regional foodways, in a well-researched but never dull account of ground corn, better known as grits. Author Murray posits that a big reason that many people say they hate grits is that all they've known are gummy, pasty, mass-produced instant variety that cook up fast but are processed to the point of tastelessness. Murry travels throughout the south to meet people who are growing heritage corn and those who are milling it to make the most of the flavor. She writes about the inventors of milling equipment and the people who are keeping century-old machines going. She talks to chefs who develop new recipes and who tweak classics like shrimp and grits. Recipes are included. I intend to check out the specialty mills she mentions and place an order!
September 7, 2019
I've never been enamored with grits. But, I've been on a food history kick lately and this popped up on the new releases shelf at the library.
It is exactly what it says on the cover. I learned a few new things, but a lot of this has been covered in other books that don't speak specifically about grits.
Give this a read if you're super curious about the subject matter, but if you've read anything about Southern food history, you'll already know the broad strokes.
It is exactly what it says on the cover. I learned a few new things, but a lot of this has been covered in other books that don't speak specifically about grits.
Give this a read if you're super curious about the subject matter, but if you've read anything about Southern food history, you'll already know the broad strokes.
December 28, 2018
A well written and entertaining journey through the history, stories, recipes, and impact of grits on our culture. Not having grown up anywhere near the south (I lived in South America) the book was a great doorway into the unknown.
May 5, 2019
Totally fascinating. I only use heirloom/small millers for my grits, and so it was interesting to learn more about this movement.... as with so many non-fiction books, there were points when it felt repetitive, but overall it was a quick read, chock full of recipes, and super engaging!
December 10, 2020
Yep, she wrote a whole book on grits. There is a lot to learn. After reading this you'll know some esoteric differences between grits and polenta. This book inspired me to order some old-fashioned, artisanal (which admittedly, as of this writing, I have yet to cook) grits.
April 17, 2019
A history of grits, and their current cultural significance. Alas! Not very many recipes!
June 18, 2019
A quick, easy read about the food ways of a familiar comfort food.
January 12, 2020
On the whole, this was an interesting book. The author's politically correct groveling did get on my nerves after a while, but fortunately she abandoned that theme about half way through the book.
August 24, 2020
Makes me want to grow and mill corn
Displaying 1 - 14 of 14 reviews