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Welcome to Hell?: In Search of the Real Turkish Football
Ask a British football fan what they know about Turkish football, and they are unlikely to describe scenes of camaraderie, hospitality and humour. They are more likely to mention banners proclaiming 'Welcome to hell'. Or Leeds United supporters stabbed to death on an Istanbul street.
Frustrated by the game's distorted image back home, John McManus set out to show the Turkish football that he knew - the rich, funny, obsessive, fan culture that he had encountered on the terraces. But he hadn't accounted for the politics. His voyage began at the start of one of the darkest periods in Turkey's modern history, marred by bombings, armed conflict and an attempted coup d'état . Football, he would soon discover, could not help but get dragged in.
Travelling from the elite training facilities of Istanbul to dusty pitches on the Syrian border, taking in visits to far-flung clubs, encounters with characterful players and experiences at riotous matches along the way, Welcome to Hell? offers a unique perspective on an alluring yet troubled football culture, at once both familiar and miles apart from the game in Britain.
Frustrated by the game's distorted image back home, John McManus set out to show the Turkish football that he knew - the rich, funny, obsessive, fan culture that he had encountered on the terraces. But he hadn't accounted for the politics. His voyage began at the start of one of the darkest periods in Turkey's modern history, marred by bombings, armed conflict and an attempted coup d'état . Football, he would soon discover, could not help but get dragged in.
Travelling from the elite training facilities of Istanbul to dusty pitches on the Syrian border, taking in visits to far-flung clubs, encounters with characterful players and experiences at riotous matches along the way, Welcome to Hell? offers a unique perspective on an alluring yet troubled football culture, at once both familiar and miles apart from the game in Britain.
400 pages, Paperback
Published July 16, 2019
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270 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 24 of 24 reviews
August 14, 2018
I loved this book. As a football fan and regular visitor to Turkey I found it truly fascinating. I was commissioned to review it for WhenSaturdayComes and have reproduced my review here (below) but in short it's a fascinating piece of work.
(WSC issue 376 June 18)
Against the backdrop of an attempted coup, military crackdown and civil unrest John McManus, a Leicester-born Ankara-based anthropologist and Muzzy Izzet fan takes us on an exhaustive journey to the heart of Turkish football. From dusty pitches on the Syrian border to the prosperous new stadia of the Bosphorus he details how the game, just like the country, ploughs on in transition whilst teetering on the brink of crisis.
In tandem with the national team’s rise over the past 20 years, Turkey’s Super Lig has transformed itself from the ‘Hell’ that infamously greeted English supporters in the 1990s. Today it is home to compulsory ID cards, VIP seating and UEFA’s leading builder of new stadiums - 18 have gone up over a seven-year period and there are more to come. Now, as the flare-illuminated fervour of an Istanbul matchday becomes increasingly sterile and addled with allegations of match-fixing, McManus heads off in search of colour and character across this huge nation. He serves up both in ample measure. Nationalist agitators, left-wing ultras, Kurdish fanatics and Syrian ex-professionals - whose sports cars and five-star lifestyles have been replaced by tents and eking out an existence in refugee camps – all provide fascinating insight into the complex relationship between politics and football at all levels of the Turkish game. From a trip to Osmanlispor, the security firm team where failure to attend matches is a sacking offence, to the origins of the ‘Big Three’, including the revelation that Istanbul’s elite sides owe much to Benedict Cumberbatch’s ancestors it’s an eye-opening tour. McManus gains access to the country’s most successful manager, Fatih Terim, and examines the similarities between Samantha (Terim’s unlikely Bewitched-inspired nickname) and the dictatorial President Erdogan, whilst aalso revealing how the former just loves sorting out domestic and professional issues with his fists. Indeed conflict is a common thread throughout as McManus’ journey culminates around the gruesome events of the July 2016 uprising. Here he focuses on his own sense of fear as a foreigner and the repercussions for football in general and Galatasaray especially who were linked to the revolutionary Gulan movement. The author does manage to celebrate and surprise too. The impact of the Turkish diaspora – especially Gudogan, Can and Ozil – on the national side, coupled with the mixed experiences of foreigners like Gordon Milne, Graham Souness and Darius Vassell makes for interesting reading. So too does his interviews on the women’s game, homophobia and Turkey’s strange experiment with female-only crowds at top flight games. (For three years clubs punished for fan violence played in front of just women and children. This was abandoned when the women’s swearing became too bad.) From the national fixation with a place at the European table, in both economic and Champion’s League terms, to the amateur Levantine team made up of British descendants and Jewish settlers McManus has done a fine job in showing how football at least offers salvation, structure and camaraderie to many in turmoil-ridden Turkey.
(WSC issue 376 June 18)
Against the backdrop of an attempted coup, military crackdown and civil unrest John McManus, a Leicester-born Ankara-based anthropologist and Muzzy Izzet fan takes us on an exhaustive journey to the heart of Turkish football. From dusty pitches on the Syrian border to the prosperous new stadia of the Bosphorus he details how the game, just like the country, ploughs on in transition whilst teetering on the brink of crisis.
In tandem with the national team’s rise over the past 20 years, Turkey’s Super Lig has transformed itself from the ‘Hell’ that infamously greeted English supporters in the 1990s. Today it is home to compulsory ID cards, VIP seating and UEFA’s leading builder of new stadiums - 18 have gone up over a seven-year period and there are more to come. Now, as the flare-illuminated fervour of an Istanbul matchday becomes increasingly sterile and addled with allegations of match-fixing, McManus heads off in search of colour and character across this huge nation. He serves up both in ample measure. Nationalist agitators, left-wing ultras, Kurdish fanatics and Syrian ex-professionals - whose sports cars and five-star lifestyles have been replaced by tents and eking out an existence in refugee camps – all provide fascinating insight into the complex relationship between politics and football at all levels of the Turkish game. From a trip to Osmanlispor, the security firm team where failure to attend matches is a sacking offence, to the origins of the ‘Big Three’, including the revelation that Istanbul’s elite sides owe much to Benedict Cumberbatch’s ancestors it’s an eye-opening tour. McManus gains access to the country’s most successful manager, Fatih Terim, and examines the similarities between Samantha (Terim’s unlikely Bewitched-inspired nickname) and the dictatorial President Erdogan, whilst aalso revealing how the former just loves sorting out domestic and professional issues with his fists. Indeed conflict is a common thread throughout as McManus’ journey culminates around the gruesome events of the July 2016 uprising. Here he focuses on his own sense of fear as a foreigner and the repercussions for football in general and Galatasaray especially who were linked to the revolutionary Gulan movement. The author does manage to celebrate and surprise too. The impact of the Turkish diaspora – especially Gudogan, Can and Ozil – on the national side, coupled with the mixed experiences of foreigners like Gordon Milne, Graham Souness and Darius Vassell makes for interesting reading. So too does his interviews on the women’s game, homophobia and Turkey’s strange experiment with female-only crowds at top flight games. (For three years clubs punished for fan violence played in front of just women and children. This was abandoned when the women’s swearing became too bad.) From the national fixation with a place at the European table, in both economic and Champion’s League terms, to the amateur Levantine team made up of British descendants and Jewish settlers McManus has done a fine job in showing how football at least offers salvation, structure and camaraderie to many in turmoil-ridden Turkey.
April 16, 2018
An interesting book by a writer new to me which provides an original and deep analysis of the power and popularity of football in Turkey.
The author spends much time in the country talking to players, fans, officials and even hooligan gang member and what comes over is the extraordinary level of passion expressed by all parties.
Football is a religion there and to be taken totally seriously - it is no joking matter.
Well written, powerful and thought provoking, this is a book well worth reading.
The author spends much time in the country talking to players, fans, officials and even hooligan gang member and what comes over is the extraordinary level of passion expressed by all parties.
Football is a religion there and to be taken totally seriously - it is no joking matter.
Well written, powerful and thought provoking, this is a book well worth reading.
December 31, 2018
Although Turkish football is not one of Europe’s top leagues, it is undoubtedly one of the most colourful. The incredibly intense atmosphere inside stadiums have fascinated visiting Europeans teams and fans. However, this book is about so much more than just recounting the cliché stories of Turkish football. It does a great job of capturing the psychology of Turkey through football and weaves it into the culture, history and politics of the country. My favourite chapters were the ones about Turkey’s Levantine community and their role in developing the sport. Another was about Lefter Küçükandonyadis, a legend of Turkish football who was in fact ethnically Greek and played in the 50s and 60s when Greek-Turkish relations were extremely tense.
The author is British but has lived in Turkey for several years and is a fan of one of the country’s top teams, Besiktas. It is very well researched and informative.
The author is British but has lived in Turkey for several years and is a fan of one of the country’s top teams, Besiktas. It is very well researched and informative.
March 19, 2019
If you are looking to understand modern day Turkey then this book is highly recommended. Although it views the country through the prism of football you do not have to be a football fan to enjoy it – in fact I would suggest having zero knowledge of the game will not be a hindrance. Some years ago I fell in love with Istanbul and since then I have been both fascinated and delighted by the country and its inhabitants (who aren’t all necessarily Turkish). McManus gives an outsider’s inside view of the country guiding the reader through the mass of contradictions that make up the country.
April 20, 2020
A well researched book!
Having lived in Turkey for a few years, this was an interesting read. Not only does John talk about football in Turkey, he delves into the politics, history and culture. I found this very helpful as it made me understand certain things about Turks. Turkey is a complex country and it takes time for one to understand certain things. Reading this book made me understand the politics that go on in the game of football. For John to put up this book, it shows that he did his research. There is a wealth of information in it and I give it five stars simply because I cannot give it six.
Having lived in Turkey for a few years, this was an interesting read. Not only does John talk about football in Turkey, he delves into the politics, history and culture. I found this very helpful as it made me understand certain things about Turks. Turkey is a complex country and it takes time for one to understand certain things. Reading this book made me understand the politics that go on in the game of football. For John to put up this book, it shows that he did his research. There is a wealth of information in it and I give it five stars simply because I cannot give it six.
October 18, 2019
Aunque parezca que el género es exclusivo de hombres ingleses que viven en otro país y mediante su amor al fútbol pueden darse la cuenta de las diferencias entre los países pero siempre lo más importante es que son más iguales que lo que pensaba al principio el autor, si yo se emocional
Dejando un lado el cinismo, es un muy buen libro y con la actualidad política de le región en verdad es una forma para entrar a la cultura turca y hasta poder recordar como es posible ser lo mejor o peor del ser humano ir a ver un juego de futbol
Dejando un lado el cinismo, es un muy buen libro y con la actualidad política de le región en verdad es una forma para entrar a la cultura turca y hasta poder recordar como es posible ser lo mejor o peor del ser humano ir a ver un juego de futbol
April 28, 2023
Absolutely brilliant effort from this author - thoroughly researched and honest account of his life in Türkiye. A very interesting country but also an exploration of all societies really…. Particularly enjoyed the pronunciation tips at the start as found myself trying to engage with the Turkish language more as I progressed through the book. Thank you John, a brilliant read!
March 17, 2025
A book on Turkish football that goes far beyond the sport itself. The author offers deep and insightful reflections on Turkish society, history, culture, and current affairs through the lens of football. Written by a British author, the book demonstrates a thoughtful and respectful approach to understanding a foreign country.
October 5, 2021
This was an enjoyable book. I really enjoyed the background information and detail provided in each chapter of the book. The book covers present day Turkish life, historical aspects and political events along with the football details resulting in a satisfying and interesting read. Recommended.
January 6, 2024
Really great. Plenty of club/fan history as well as a look into the idiosyncrasies of Turkish football culture, cults of personality, and how sport is linked with politics. For a first-time author I thought it was pretty remarkable
March 17, 2024
That's Real!
Along the reading, McManus supplied most of the information needed for an outcomer to Turkish football, also even some detailed, unknown ones for a indigenous supporter like me. With his proscript I had the feeling of him became "Turk" enough. :)
Along the reading, McManus supplied most of the information needed for an outcomer to Turkish football, also even some detailed, unknown ones for a indigenous supporter like me. With his proscript I had the feeling of him became "Turk" enough. :)
October 31, 2024
Fun is not the right word to describe something that has so many important stories and contributions to discussing contemporary Turkey, but there is an adventure side to the book that helps it keeping to move along and be enjoyable despite its seriousness of the topic. So informative and fun!
June 28, 2019
Monipuolinen, paikoin ehkä vähän liikaa selittelevä ja omaa agendaansa esille tuova katsaus turkkifutikseen.
May 2, 2020
Loved it - a deeper look into Turkish football and events that have shaped them
May 14, 2020
A fascinating insight in to Turkish Football, culture and Politics and how they all intertwine
November 14, 2021
Everything you wanted to know about Turkish football but were afraid to ask.
January 6, 2022
Impressive and encyclopaedic overview, with a mixture of history, 'among the fans' reportage, and musings on his own relationship with the country and its sport. Good stuff.
August 10, 2022
Fantástico - 20% fútbol 80% sociedad/política turca
October 28, 2022
Beşiktaş taraftarı bir İngiliz yazdığı için tarafsızlık konusu biraz sıkıntılı.
September 17, 2024
Tarafsız bir gözle yazılmış, bir sürü hikaye barındıran kapsamlı bir kitap
October 1, 2024
What an incredible read, Turkish football has always fascinated me and this book hit the nail on the head. Footballs relationship with politics in turkey was a brilliant read.
April 4, 2025
A great look into Turkish society from a footballing lense.
February 25, 2025
Like all great football books, this is not really (or not mainly) about football. Instead, it uses the game as a window into Turkish history, culture and society. Descriptions of clubs are used as ways of looking at different regions or social currents in Turkish life. Famous players and managers are depicted, not only as interesting figures in themselves, but also as characters who inhabit specific moments in history, or whose lives illustrate a particular drama in the society. A chapter on the Fenerbahçe legend Lefter Küçükandonyadis is used to discuss the fate of the fast-vanishing traces of Istanbul's Greek community. Another on Ankara compares the demographics who watch different clubs in the capital as a means of analysing the enormous migrations from village to city that took place in the second half of the 20th century. McManus is an anthropologist and it shows - although the analysis is never dry and the writing is vivid.
It's often quite a sombre book, as the author observes the Turkey of the 2010s slide further into paranoia and autocracy. The consolidation (and moral degeneration) of the Erdoğan regime looms large. So do the humanitarian catastrophe in neighbouring Syria, the simmering Kurdish conflict, and the aftershocks of the coup attempt in 2016.
Nor does McManus shy away from the less attractive elements of Turkish football culture, whether they be corruption, violence or bigotry.
But what keeps lifting the mood back up again is the mad passion and humour of the fans themselves. Beneath the frustration and the disgust, the author's deep affection for the camaraderie and excitement of the terrace shines through. It makes the reader want to be a part of it, in spite of everything.
It's often quite a sombre book, as the author observes the Turkey of the 2010s slide further into paranoia and autocracy. The consolidation (and moral degeneration) of the Erdoğan regime looms large. So do the humanitarian catastrophe in neighbouring Syria, the simmering Kurdish conflict, and the aftershocks of the coup attempt in 2016.
Nor does McManus shy away from the less attractive elements of Turkish football culture, whether they be corruption, violence or bigotry.
But what keeps lifting the mood back up again is the mad passion and humour of the fans themselves. Beneath the frustration and the disgust, the author's deep affection for the camaraderie and excitement of the terrace shines through. It makes the reader want to be a part of it, in spite of everything.
November 12, 2024
A fascinating book about the reality of Turkish Football, must admit to not knowing a lot about this subject, other than Fenerbahce & Galatasaray, but this book has opened my eyes to what an eventful history this European/Asian nation has. A wonderful read and a must read for anyone who has a limited knowledge of Turkish Football.
Displaying 1 - 24 of 24 reviews