A woman meets a boat, and together they embark upon a voyage of self-discovery that leads them from a serene bay off Vancouver Island, to the rarified, yacht-laced marinas of California, to snow-dusted ports in Scandinavia. Unlike most memoirs, this pivotal coming-together did not happen at a point of crisis in the author's life. Quite the opposite: Kaci Cronkhite was fulfilled in career and relationships, and after several years sailing around the world, had found her home on the tip of the Olympic Peninsula in northwest Washington state.
Perhaps it was not she, the woman, in need of connection and tenderness, but Pax herself, the 28-foot wooden boat known as a spidsgatter, constructed in Denmark in 1936. Finding Pax is a love story, a mystery, a travelogue, and an ode to the lure of the sea and the vessels constructed to navigate its waters with respect and intelligence.
Kaci grew up on a ranch in Oklahoma, not exactly prime training ground for life as a sailor. In her early 30's, while visiting the small seaport town of Port Townsend, Washington (where, not coincidentally, we both now live), she went sailing for the first time. An avid adventurer and outdoorswoman, she had already traveled the world. But this first taste of freedom on the water was the start of a whole new way of life for Kaci. She spent the next decade at sea, returning to Port Townsend to become director of the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival, the largest gathering of wooden boats in the world. Perhaps Pax was just biding her time, waiting for Kaci to set anchor and find her.
In a cursory internet search in 2007 — seven years after settling in Port Townsend — Kaci encountered Pax. The little boat would soon uproot Kaci from her comfortable perch and launch her into the history of Pax's journey from a pre-WWII workshop in Denmark to 21st century Victoria, British Columbia. The following years were spent restoring Pax, and tracking down her previous owners to reconnect the wooden boat with her past.
I've been sailing approximately never in my life, despite being a daughter of the Pacific Northwest, and yet I was captivated by Pax's story, and the details of sailing, maritime culture and wooden boat construction and history. Kaci writes with such clarity and warmth, I never felt excluded by jargon. I was moved by her dedication to Pax's story, and felt the boat's spirit and legacy shine through her narrative. Finding Pax is simply a joy to read.