Eduardo Halfon, a Guatemalan-Jewish writer of Lebanese and Polish ancestry, travels to a concentration camp in Calabria called Ferramonti di Tarsia to speak on Holocaust Memorial Day. His Italian host, the eccentric director Panebianco, introduces him at the podium as "Signor Hoffman," mangling his name with cheerful impunity in front of a packed auditorium.
The camp turns out to be a theme park reconstruction. The original ninety-two blocks were demolished in the 1960s to build a highway, and what survives is a tasteful replica of catastrophe, complete with museum entrance fees collected from Calabrian schoolchildren. Halfon, dizzy, nauseated, and still wearing a ridiculous pink coat he bought after an airline lost his luggage, sits in a red armchair on the stage and accepts Panebianco's envelope of dirty bills while thinking about Hiroshima, atomic bombs, and a Japanese woman named Aiko who once read him chalk messages left by survivors on a soot-black wall.
That night, in a bar, over very good gin and very bad news about an actor named Philip Seymour Hoffman who has just been found dead with a needle in his arm, Halfon and a Calabrian graduate student named Marina drink their way through the wad of performance fees, toasting something they know precisely and say nothing about.
In the second section, Halfon travels to Łódź, Poland, armed with a yellow slip of paper on which his dying Polish grandfather once scrawled the address of his childhood home, corner of Żeromskiego and Persego Maja, number 16, captured by the Gestapo in September 1939 as he played dominoes on the street with his girlfriend Mina.
His guide is the extraordinary Agnieszka Maroszek, a heavily jeweled, copper-haired, fur-coated woman who speaks ten languages, takes no money, eats raw herring without chewing, and has spent her life helping Jewish descendants trace the wreckage of that city's two hundred fifty thousand vanished Jews.
Together they visit the building where Halfon's grandfather was born, now occupied by a blond woman who may or may not have once been a porn star. They stand over six empty mass graves dug by Jewish men who fully expected to fill them. They eat kreplach at a Jewish restaurant called Anatevka, where a very blond girl on a wooden scaffold plays the same violin piece from Fiddler on the Roof on a loop for eternity.
Madame Maroszek, who may have been the daughter of Jewish rescuers, or of Jewish denouncers, or of both simultaneously, gives Halfon three books as a parting gift, each one a diary written by a nameless Jew in the Łódź ghetto, and Halfon boards his train carrying, in the pocket of the pink coat, the full weight of everything that has been written down in order to survive.
The final and longest section circles back to Guatemala, to a family secret as murky as the contaminated water of Lake Amatitlán. When Halfon was a boy, he was told that his father's older brother, Salomón, had drowned in that lake at age five. The body was never recovered. The name was never spoken again. Decades later, Halfon drives back to the old lakeside house where his grandparents once lived, finds the same ancient caretaker, Don Isidoro, still faithfully employed after forty years, and begins asking questions.
An old indigenous healer named Doña Ermelinda, who lives beside the lake and converses with a wooden idol called Maximón over open fire, gives Halfon a concoction from a gourd bowl and tells him to remember his dreams, because in them he will understand everything. What Halfon discovers about Salomón, whose names in Arabic, Hebrew, and English were all used by different members of the family, and who died sick and alone in a clinic in New York in 1940 while a photograph of him standing in the snow carries all the testimony his family left behind, is a grief so old and so specific that Hebrew has a dedicated word for it.
The book's horrors arrive with the matter-of-fact delivery of a coroner reading a grocery list. Six mass graves stand open in the Łódź Jewish cemetery, dug by 840 men ordered to excavate their own burial pits, then cheated of their scheduled execution only because the Germans fled first. The graves remain open. Two hundred fifty thousand Jews lived in Łódź before the war; fewer than ten thousand came out. A teenage boy wrote his ghetto diary in the margins of a French novel; his entries stop on August 3, 1944, the day he was deported to Auschwitz. A man named Yankele Herszkowitz stood on trash cans in the ghetto and sang satirical ballads about hunger and death for a few coins, survived Auschwitz and Braunschweig, returned to Łódź, and gassed himself thirty years later.
The E. T. A. Hoffmann episode is the book's sharpest piece of dark comedy. The real Hoffmann, composer of the Nutcracker's source material and public official in Warsaw under Prussian rule, was assigned to name Jewish families who had gone through centuries without formal surnames. Before dinner he gave dignified names; after dinner, pleasant ones; on Lenten Fridays, fish names; after drinking with Prussian colonels, military ones. An entire people's paper identity generated by one bureaucrat's appetite and mood.
Halfon then traces his own surname through an Ellis Island official who chopped it in half, and his Lebanese grandfather's claim that "Halfon" חלפון comes from an ancient word meaning "he who changes his life." The author's name is thus a double amputation that somehow still means transformation.
The soccer stadium in Łódź still sells shirts reading "We hunt Jews here." The graves are still open. The hummingbird, as Doña Ermelinda explains it, still carries the thoughts of man from here to there. Jew hatred is alive and well. Antisemitic calls for the genocide of Jews are still chanted across the globe.
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