I cannot believe that there is just over one month left in the baseball season. I currently have a game on the radio as it is my balm for life, but such is the cyclical nature of the changing seasons. After baseball comes football season, then hockey and basketball, and come the new year, it is almost time for baseball again. I could read about baseball from a kaleidoscope of perspectives, one for each day of the long season, and I would still have to cull the list down to manageable. Besides baseball, I could read a memoir a day and it would still not be enough to sate my interest. There is something about learning insights into others’ lives and seeing how all these stories of shared humanity fit together to form a nation’s experience that continue to pique my interest. Whether it is the most famous person in the world or the neighbor next door, I love hearing peoples’ life stories. When a memoir intersects with baseball and cooking like Molly O’Neill’s does, I knew that I had uncovered a gem. A bonus is that Mostly True appeared as recommended reading on my library’s feed, which makes uncovering nuggets like these all the more special.
The O’Neill and Gwinn families came together when parents John and Virginia met at the Gwinn Mill on the night of a fire. Other sparks flew between the new couple as there was clearly a chemistry between the two of them. The Gwinn family of Columbus, Ohio came from pseudo-royalty, owning a mill and a mansion. Virginia grew up in the home of her aunt and uncle O.E.and Clarence Gwinn and never lacked for the luxuries of life. She was used to eating off of fine china on a nightly basis and only had the best of food and clothes and even her own pony. Her parents disapproved of a marriage to John O’Neill of Ravenna, Nebraska because he clearly came from lesser stock. His grandfather Jack bought hundreds of acres of land to homestead and raised nine children, the youngest of whom, John’s father, would go on to have nine children of their own. One thread through the generations is that the men played amateur or barnstorming baseball. World War II curtailed John’s dream of playing in the majors, but he hoped to raise a son who one day would live out his dream. Marrying Virginia who happened to stand six feet tall might just help him achieve his goal. He would father sons and coach their baseball teams on a path toward the majors. While this dream might seem far fetched to some, the O’Neill family grew to have an eldest daughter, Molly, and five sons, the youngest of whom, Paul would go onto play in the majors for nearly twenty years. In between a whirlwind of family antics and adventures ensued.
While I thought that this memoir was about baseball, and in a way it was, Molly O’Neill relates her experiences as the eldest sibling in a family full of wild boys. In the ten years between her and Paul, were four other boys. As the oldest and only girl, Molly became her mother’s assistant. Until her last year of high school, Molly could not participate in activities because she had to watch her brothers after school. Although Virginia wanted to continue the Gwinn tradition of only the best foods for her children, boys coming of age in the 1960s desired the junk that they saw on television. By age eleven, Molly learned to cook and created recipes that she saw on cans at the grocery store, the most famous of which was the crab melt, that is still one of Paul’s favorites. Molly also became quite the baker in the tradition of her O’Neill grandmother, who are mother despised. Despite Molly’s talents, her father still desired to raise a major leaguer and enrolled all of his sons in little league. Some boys like the two oldest Mike and Patrick showed some genuine talent, but neither of them demonstrated to have the skills to make it to the majors. John, persevered. By this time, Molly had finished college and on a path toward becoming a renowned chef. It was her youngest brother Paul who loved baseball and exhibited the tools to become a major leaguer. Molly acted like a second mother to Paul when he was a youngster, too young for little league and their mother working or having zero interest in baseball. Molly’s love was in food prep, but she was her brothers’ best cheerleader. As the O’Neill clan entered adulthood, baseball and food would intersect.
As Paul O’Neill rose in the majors to play for the Reds and then the Yankees, Molly also planted roots in New York as a chef, food critic, and later cookbook author. The family’s food preparer from the time she was a girl, Molly became an accomplished cook in a male dominated industry. Her oyster cracking skills became stuff of legend, and her accomplishments in the kitchen lead her brothers to follow in her footsteps and in the food industry, four of five of these midwesterners appreciating a quality cut of fresh fish. Molly’s friends and acquaintances in the food industry include Julia Child and James Beard, Julia providing encouragement and mentorship. As one who dabbles in the kitchen on a daily basis, I salivated over Molly’s creations and wrote down tips. She eventually transitioned from sixteen hour days in the kitchen to become a food critic for the New York Times, her brothers accompanying her on many restaurant adventures. The Times job lead to Molly working freelance and writing cookbooks, combining her love of writing and food. The knowledge that she could write as well as cook occurred when she penned a story about the history of pancakes for the Times magazine, her father’s recipe coming out on top. Her rise as a food writer occurred while Paul became a fan favorite as a member of the Yankees. The O’Neills, originally an immigrant homesteading family, had finally made it in America.
Today Paul O’Neill is a broadcaster for the Yankees and Molly continues to work as a food writer. Reviewers have noted that her New York Cookbook is a quality book that contains stories about the history of New York as well as recipes, a book that intrigues the historian in me. With the Yankees barreling toward the playoffs again, I am sure to see Paul O’Neill on television much in the next few months. My husband hopes this team has what it takes to win, but that is a story for another review. As the season winds down, it will be time for another season of life and sports. The O’Neill clan will meet to cook the recipes that they have perfected during the course of their adult lives. Whether it is seafood gumbo, crab cakes, or homemade mashed potatoes, the O’Neill siblings are a force to be reckoned with in the kitchen as well as the baseball diamond. Mostly True had not been on my baseball reading radar before this season started, but it has stood out as one of this season’s surprises. What could be better for this baseball loving cook than a book that combines family history with my two favorite pastimes.
4 stars