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416 pages, Hardcover
First published September 4, 2018
Otto found beauty everywhere. Liberated from the confines of the family dwelling as he began attending school, Otto wandered the city wide-eyed, studying the rhythms in the stucco, marble, and plaster lining the city streets, amalgams of centuries of European building. "Music is liquid architecture; architecture is frozen music" went the saying attributed to Goethe, a venerated authority in Otto's German-speaking home. The Old New Synagogue and the other medieval buildings were baritones, deep in solid stone. Renaissance monuments, such as the Royal Summer Palace, were sopranos, trilling. Saint Nicholas Church and the Wallenstein Garden, baroque giants, were tenors. To some the juxtaposition of these styles seemed discordant. But to Otto, the cityscape was a harmonious chorus.The Watchers of Prague I'm picturing gargoyles.
Prague's admirers cherished its idiosyncratic facades and knew them as well as their own faces. There were details that less-practiced eyes missed: a bawdy fresco here, a secret passageway leading to an ancient grotto there. Residents of the city had long formed a cult that worshiped its beauty. They preserved the history that gave the facades life: extravagant legends, unwritten secrets, legacies of seers and oddballs. Parents and grandparents whispered tales to their children of the clairvoyant founder of the city, Princess Libuse; the miracle-working priest, Nepomuk; Rabbi Loew and his golem; and a thousand others - pointing out the dwellings where they lived and walked.When the Germans arrived
All great cities have their guardians, but Prague's were particularly fierce in their devotion. These Praguers, the ones who did not forget, who always observed, who passed down the city's lore from generation to generation, were the Watchers of Prague.
They arrived by the thousands, military and civilian. The Watchers of Prague looked away or openly wept for their city - its buildings physically intact but its whimsy lost, its eccentric spirit broken. The representatives of the Reich watched Prague, too, with wolves' eyes. They need buildings to work and live in, and they made lists of what they desired, shopping from the inventory of what was left behind by the Jewish families who had fled the country.Prague Castle as it could have been described by Toussaint
Toussaint returned that fall (1939) to the Golden City in his new capacity. He saw Prague Castle, with red roofs sliding downhill from that seat of Czech kings like an army spreading out across the municipal basin. Their progression was punctuated by steeples, belfries, and turrets, and by the Vltava River, which flowed through the middle of the city, crisscrossed by ancient bridges connecting Mala Strana to the Old Town. Ruins may have been smoldering across Europe, but the city of a Hundred Spires had not lost a single one to bombing.Laurence Steinhardt describing when the Russians arrived (1945)
"What has taken place in Czechoslovakia is merely conclusive proof that it is not possible to compromise with Communism and live in the same house with it. Like fire, it ultimately consumes everything it touches."Shirley Temple Black was there during Prague Spring 1968
"Nothing crushes freedom more effectively than a tank."Shirley was also in Prague during the Velvet Revolution in 1989. So lucky!